Removing a pulley from a motor shaft

[WhoWhatNow]

So how do I do it? I have a 3 phase motor and I want to transfer the pulley to my single phase.

By whowhatnow1 at 2011-07-20

First step is obviously to remove the two screws. After that do I just pull it off with a puller? Or do I need to remove the pin first? How do I do that? Not much room behind the pulley to punch it out.



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I have the cheap 3 arm puller set from Harbor Freight. Will that do it?

Noob question I know! Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics!

 

[Graymills - Craig]

First thing, are there any set screws?

Second, lube lube lube.

Third, if the puller doesn't work, a large stout flathead screwdriver could be put between the motor and the pulley and hit with a mallet.

Worst case? Dremel out the key but be careful not to gouge the keyway on the gear.

 

[DoyleDee]

Use the other holes to put the screws in, and with lube... Tighten them. It will press the center ring out of the large shiv. So using your first pic, remove the two bolts and screw them into the other two holes.

 

[chrommagman]

That puller mite work. But if not, pull out the rubber mallet or hammer and some lube!
And yes you should remove that pin before you do any of this

 

[stu_haxorpcs]

I would take those 2 bolts out and put them in the other 2 holes to push the big outside of the pulley out first and then make sure there is no set screw in the inside piece and use your 3 jaw puller to pull it off the shaft.

 

[WhoWhatNow]

Thanks guys. I hadn't even thought about using the screws in the other holes to push it off. I assume i should try to remove the key before doing this correct? Any suggestions on lube? WD-40, graphite spray?

 

[chickenhauler]

Key should stay on the shaft while you pull the pulley off. Same with pressing on a pulley - I always put a dab of grease on the keyway to hold the key on the shaft while I start the pulley.

 

[DoyleDee]

No need to remove the key, it should come out easily... If you have to, you can use a punch once you have the hub loose from the shiv.

 

[DoyleDee]

Oh, and wd40 or any penetrating lube...

 

[WhoWhatNow]

Got it. The key doesn't hold the pulley on it keeps if from rotating independently from the shaft. I'm not the sharpest crayon in the box tonight am I?

To push it on the new motor do I just line up the pulley and key and use a mallet?

 

[DoyleDee]

I generally use a piece of wood, so you don't mushroom the key... But you can tap it gently into the keyway.

 

[Strouty]

I just went through all this the other day. Once you use the two screws to get the pulley separated then you can just use a puller. Make sure you use both screws in an even manner, don't crank just one and expect good results. Here is a photo of what you will be doing.

http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb424/tower207/DSC00750.jpg

 

[WhoWhatNow]

Great suggestions. I love this site. Post a question and get answers while you grill up the steaks!

Strouty - I remember seeing your thread now. I read it thinking I will need to do this soon.

Thanks again guys. I will post how it worked out this weekend.

 

[Graymills - Craig]

No need to remove the key, it should come out easily... If you have to, you can use a punch once you have the hub loose from the shiv.

In theory, the key should come out. Kinda like brake locator bolts.

Having rebuilt enough old pumps, I've found that the keys usually weld themselves to both the shaft and whatever it is fitted to.

 

[Ohio Auto]

In theory, the key should come out. Kinda like brake locator bolts.

Having rebuilt enough old pumps, I've found that the keys usually weld themselves to both the shaft and whatever it is fitted to.

Couldn't be more wrong....the key is designed NOT to come out UNTIL the pulley is pressed off.

IMO, anyone spending time trying to get the key out first is wasting time.

 

[larry_g]

http://www.kamandirect.com/resources/2010/downloads/quick_detachable_bushings.pdf

The above is a link to a short tutorial on QD bushings. It has some of the torque specs for reinstalling the hub. Yours is a bit different in that I don't see a split in the hub. Scrape some of the paint off and you should find a split in the hub. When removing the hub from the shaft, after seperating the sheave from the hub , drive a small wedge in the split and it should fall off the shaft.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[WhoWhatNow]

Larry - Awesome link. Thanks. I may try this tonight.

 

[Kevin54]

In theory, the key should come out. Kinda like brake locator bolts.

Having rebuilt enough old pumps, I've found that the keys usually weld themselves to both the shaft and whatever it is fitted to.

The key stays in place. Just as in reassembly, you drop the key into the keyway and then slide the pulley over the top of it.

 

[Graymills - Craig]

Couldn't be more wrong....the key is designed NOT to come out UNTIL the pulley is pressed off.

IMO, anyone spending time trying to get the key out first is wasting time.

It depends on the fit of the key. Over time, the keyway loosens, and the key can slip.

My comment about trying to remove the key was a last-ditch thing. I've experienced keys that corrode themselves into place, effectively welding the shaft to whatever is attached to it. About 1% of the time (higher on old stuff), I've had to Dremel the key out, kind of like drilling out a stuck bolt.

 

[Graymills - Craig]

The key stays in place. Just as in reassembly, you drop the key into the keyway and then slide the pulley over the top of it.

*Usually*.

My point was that the key - which is usually some sort of non-stainless - can corrode in place, especially if it's old or in damp environments. I hate doing it, but I've been forced to drill keys out before in order to get something (usually metal impellers) off the shaft. It's not S-O-P, but it sometimes needs to be done.

 

[WhoWhatNow]

Just an update: I got the pulley off this weekend with no trouble. It was too hot in the garage to put it on the new motor. Maybe this weekend. Thanks to all that replied!

 

[chassell]

Where can i get a pulley key to replace a mangled one? Need a 1/4" x 1/4" x 2" key.

 

[purplezr2]

Where can i get a pulley key to replace a mangled one? Need a 1/4" x 1/4" x 2" key.

Just about any hardware store should carry them(Ace, Fastnel). Home depot/Lowes/Menards will more then likely carry an assortment pak of keys.

 

[Kevin54]

Where can i get a pulley key to replace a mangled one? Need a 1/4" x 1/4" x 2" key.

Hardware store. Box store like Lowes or HD. Ace Hardware should carry them. Just about anyplace but WallyWorld.

 

[kbs2244]

I don’t think your 3 armed puller is what you want.
A straight across the center, 2 armed, “steering wheel” puller will let you get your puller bolts into the bolt holes.
WD40 is good for what it does, but it isn’t really meant to penetrate.
Kroil, or something like it, is what you want.
Let it sit overnight.
Worse comes to worse, some heat will do it.

 

[BirdRacer]

I don’t think your 3 armed puller is what you want.
A straight across the center, 2 armed, “steering wheel” puller will let you get your puller bolts into the bolt holes.
WD40 is good for what it does, but it isn’t really meant to penetrate.
Kroil, or something like it, is what you want.
Let it sit overnight.
Worse comes to worse, some heat will do it.

I'm pretty sure he got it off about a year and half ago, before this thread was resurrected.

 

[kbs2244]

I guess I would hope so!

 

[DangerousDan55]

Im a little late, but,
You have a;
Key
Hub
Sheeve
The hub is a straight fit to the motor shaft. Most likely the inner portion has 1 or 2 plit cuts. But the splits do not come all the way to the outside flange of the hub, where the two bolts are.
Now, a taper fit hub TO the sheeve.
When the two bolts are tightened, it pulls the sheeve onto the taper oh the hub. Thus locking the assembly to the motor shaft & the drive key.

So, to remove, remove the two bolts, insert them into the other threaded holes. Put a good bind on them, take a hammer & brass bar & give the sheeve a pop. (Do not hit the hub or screws. That drives it tighter.) you may need to slowly thighten more on the bolts & pop the sheeve again a few times. Always try to pop the sheeve close to the hub.

Now when intsalling, as you install the bolts in the unthreaded holes in the hub, & they should thread in the sheeve threaded holes. Again, tightening the bolts, pulls the sheeve & hub together on its taper. You need to alow for the "draw" (moving/tightening up on the taper) to get the sheeves in alignment. An example- lets say the "draw" is 1/8". So, you offset the sheeve before you tighten the hub bolts. As you tighten the bolts, the sheeve will move into alignment.

DO NOT PUT GREASE OR OIL ON THE TAPER! They are to be made up dry.

 

[Tim The Tool Man]

Use the other holes to put the screws in, and with lube... Tighten them. It will press the center ring out of the large shiv. So using your first pic, remove the two bolts and screw them into the other two holes.

I would take those 2 bolts out and put them in the other 2 holes to push the big outside of the pulley out first and then make sure there is no set screw in the inside piece and use your 3 jaw puller to pull it off the shaft.

^ This BUT do not use any lube on the bolts. Lube on the bolts can lead to them snapping in two as it allows to much torque... Some knocker-loose or liquid wrench on the shaft is fine. Unless it is rusted to sin it will come right off and the key-way ought not be a problem. You won't need a puller either. I would also read through larry_g's link...

 

[WhoWhatNow]

I'm pretty sure he got it off about a year and half ago, before this thread was resurrected.

I did, but sadly I haven't put it on the new motor yet!

 

[7th Kahuna]

. I would also read through larry_g's link...

Of course by the time I get to it, 'File Not Found'.

Just last month I acquired a jointer with one of these. I had never seen one before. The previous owner had already taken it off and gave me a quick tutorial but clearly we were on different pages or he had no idea himself. I think we just weren't communicating. Anyhow, I was glad to see this here, it confirms what I thought I understood. Hopefully the file at that link reappears.

 

[Tim The Tool Man]

Of course by the time I get to it, 'File Not Found'.

Just last month I acquired a jointer with one of these. I had never seen one before. The previous owner had already taken it off and gave me a quick tutorial but clearly we were on different pages or he had no idea himself. I think we just weren't communicating. Anyhow, I was glad to see this here, it confirms what I thought I understood. Hopefully the file at that link reappears.

Do a google search for it...

 

[larry_g]

QD hub instructions

I did a quick search on 'QD hub instructions' and found the above link since the link from years ago is dead. The search grabbed a lot of pages so if you need more try the search to find a better one as I just grabbed the first one that had install and removal information. QD hubs are perty much a standard and lots of manufactures have them in some form or another.

on edit, better instructions

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Junkman]

I did everything that was suggested, and one of the bolts snapped before the pulley came lose. What do I do now? Am I screwed, and will never get the pulley off the motor? thanks Junk.. turning good things into junk.

Just re read the above, and I think that I was tightening the pulley to the hub, because I had the bolts in the unthreaded holes in the hub, and was pulling on the pulley. If so, how bad is this?

I can put new bolts into the hub, and have them push the pulley toward the motor, if that is correct.

thanks

 

[NUTTSGT]

I removed a pulley the other day after letting it sit for a day soaking up some Kroil. I tried to use to prybars on opposite sides, no workie. Then I broke out the gear puller and it started to bend the pulley, so I walked over to the press. Piece of cake with the press.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

I did everything that was suggested, and one of the bolts snapped before the pulley came lose. What do I do now? Am I screwed, and will never get the pulley off the motor? thanks Junk.. turning good things into junk.

Just re read the above, and I think that I was tightening the pulley to the hub, because I had the bolts in the unthreaded holes in the hub, and was pulling on the pulley. If so, how bad is this?

I can put new bolts into the hub, and have them push the pulley toward the motor, if that is correct.

thanks

Getting the pulley to move any direction is a good start, the ultimate goal is to get it off the shaft. Sometimes I've had good results by getting tension on the puller (or bolts) and giving the end of the shaft shaft a good smack with a hammer or punch.

 

[matt_i]

I did everything that was suggested, and one of the bolts snapped before the pulley came lose. What do I do now? Am I screwed, and will never get the pulley off the motor? thanks Junk.. turning good things into junk.

Just re read the above, and I think that I was tightening the pulley to the hub, because I had the bolts in the unthreaded holes in the hub, and was pulling on the pulley. If so, how bad is this?

I can put new bolts into the hub, and have them push the pulley toward the motor, if that is correct.

thanks

If you twisted off a bolt that was tightening the taper, its no longer helping to hold the "wedge" in position. So, it might as well not be there.

You have to study the taper and see which holes tighten the "wedge" action and which ones jack or push it apart. If you simply remove the other remaining bolts and setup the "jack bolts" then it will push apart. You can probably then remove the twisted shank with a vise grip. But, unless corroded, it should not be under any load and basically loosen easily.

If you don't have enough bolts now, its most likely a grade 5 hex head bolt. 3 hashes on the hex head to denote Grade 5.

 

[Junkman]

I goofed and was tightening it, not loosening it. I picked up 2 new grade 8 bolts this evening, and inserted them into the tapped holes in the wedge, and screwed them it. After a few twists, the pulley came off with the wedge. I didn't find a key in either the motor or the pulley wedge, so I will assume that it fell on the floor, and I will have to look for it in the morning. The worse that can happen, is that I will need to buy another key along with a larger pulley. The one lesson that I did learn the hard way, is to grind away the last few threads of the bolts, so when the bolts start pushing, the threads don't get damaged, and make it difficult to take the bolts out of the wedge.
Thanks for the help...
PS.. the broken bolt came out easily.

 

[Strouty]

I just pulled two pulleys tonight, mine were not as easy. Glad the bolt that broke came out easy.