Has anyone ever used this crowfoot set?

[diesel research]

A bunch of stuck hydraulic hoses put me in a bind this weekend. Mostly in the 1-1/4 to 1-5/8" range or there abouts.

Obviously I don't have a complete selection of open end wrenches to cover this range.

A buddy had several raised panel wrenches that covered about half the sizes I need. Some cman, some HF. Didn't matter, because they didn't have the length needed to do the job, nor did we have enough sizes to cover the other half of the fittings. Probably 25 fittings, almost all seized on.

I avoided using the torch, because a torch near rubber lines and hydraulic oil is probably not the smartest move.

Ended up having to use a combination of the wrenches, a pipe wrench, and my 15" adjustable which wasn't long enough or open up wide enough. To top it off, it required abusing them with a 4lb mini sledge. Even then some didn't come off.

In the past, I have used hydraulic force to lift/pull/push wrenches in the direction I need, but that wasn't an option this time. I was standing under a truck, in an oil change pit. The PTO which usually sides off with minimal force, wouldn't budge with my SO 24" hammering prybar, and required a 16lb sledge to knock it free.

Not wanting to be in that situation again, I want to tool up in preparation.

I was considering this set of crowfeet which seem pretty complete, and coupling it with the old 24" breaker and/or pipe.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200401867_200401867

 

[bobcatdan]

I have a sunnex kit very close to those, I like them very muck. I broke one, but had no problem warranting it. Those are the best thing out there for hydraulic fitting and have served me good. Makes it hard to spend $800 on a SO set.

 

[RKA]

I want to suggest something like this http://www.tooltopia.com/ez-red-bss3.aspx, but it seems like their largest set tops out at 1 1/4".

 

[CD360]

Anyone ever used these? They are cheaper than the set you posted and include the same sizes.

http://www.tooltopia.com/v8-tools-7814.aspx

 

[houdni]

since you are doing hydaulic lines...im assuming your taking tubing nuts off and will want a crowfoot tubing wrench....you dont really want round the tubing nut...

those you posted will most likely round the nut....of course depending how tight the line is...

 

[diesel research]

I know about the ez-red butterfly wrenches. Kind of a pain to have to remove drive tool every time you need to reposition. Really open end is the only option on hydro fittings most times.

I had a set of ratcheting wrenches for smaller hydraulic lines that completely encompassed the fitting, but they wouldn't be ideal for this application either.

I had a set before, but they went "missing". I will buy another set for smaller fittings under 1" someday.


As far as sunnex/GRIP/MIT I am a bit concerned if they are made of a "tough" steel that tolerates me pounding with my sledge, not just a hard continuous pull. I imagine I'd chip the chrome off pretty quick. Same goes for snappy.

I also see there may be a need for this in the future:
http://www.fluxeon.com/inductionheaters.html

 

[diesel research]

since you are doing hydaulic lines...im assuming your taking tubing nuts off and will want a crowfoot tubing wrench....you dont really want round the tubing nut...

those you posted will most likely round the nut....of course depending how tight the line is...

No. Those (commonly called flarenut, or appearing similar) will absolutely not work. The 2 choices are something with completely open jaws (adjustable/open end/pipe wrench) or something that folds/splits like a kwik-tite wrench.

You cannot use anything with a flare type open end where it is not completely open.

This right here is not acceptable and simply will not fit.

Those are only for working with steel tubing that has a much smaller diameter than the fitting. That is the only way you can get those kind to fit. When dealing with steel reinforced rubber, the hose will not fit through the opening since it is usually as large or even larger than the fitting (when accounting for crimp sleeve)

 

[crewchief888]

i deal with rusted, corroded and overtightened hose and tubelines every day.

best thing ive ever found to break stuff loose is a good air hammer, a longish round, flat, punch, and a dull chisel.

the hammering and vibration shakes things loose.

another ive had success with is using an open end crowsfoot, an extention, and an impact to shake em loose.

 

[diesel research]

Hang on, I can imagine using an air hammer/punch to "shake things up". What/how is the dull chisel used?

How is an impact used on a crowfoot? I imagine broken tools and a broken wrist real quick.

 

[crewchief888]

Hang on, I can imagine using an air hammer/punch to "shake things up". What/how is the dull chisel used?

How is an impact used on a crowfoot? I imagine broken tools and a broken wrist real quick.

sharp chisel can and will split a fitting , sometimes it's a good thing,

sometimes it's bad thing and leads to a lot more work

i just hammer with the impact in short controlled bursts, 5 or 6 hits at a time.

i try holding the extention parrallel with the hose/tubeline, and let the impact break it loose.

it's worked when everything else has failed.

the few open ended crowsfeet ive broken, ive broken by hand,
most of ones i use are 3/8" dr, much smaller, rounder profile than the 1/2" dr of the same size. ex: 1 1/4" SO
if, and when i reach for a crowsfoot, it's my last resort

 

[bobcatdan]

I agree with Crewchief888. Air hammer or using an impact with a crowsfoot works wonders.

 

[diesel research]

I think I am also going to try sharp chisel too, since I am often disposing of said equipment and hoses. 11hrs to remove a "wet kit" is entirely too long for me.

Perfect excuse for me to buy the 12" and 18" air hammer chisels I keep thinking about.

Am still a bit leary of impact on a crows foot because my mind keeps imagining the extension trashing the square drive on the crowfoot? The ol ti-max hits pretty hard. Yet another reason chrome worries me a bit.

If I could figure out a way to apply heat under a nasty truck w/o setting it or the oil pit on fire, I'd do that to. Running out of cutoff wheels only further aggravated the issue. (they don't zip through hydro hose very easily)

In the past, I have dealt with plenty of hydraulics but they always leaked so much that fittings were never stuck beyond a few quick taps of the hammer or a little pulling pushing with the crane boom or an outrigger or winch. Guess I have been spoiled.

 

[Welderguy24]

This is what i use on all the hydraulic fittings I work on on TRUCKS (wet kits and such), Equipment would be another story but....

You will LOVE these....

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...=12959&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

 

[diesel research]

This is what i use on all the hydraulic fittings I work on on TRUCKS (wet kits and such), Equipment would be another story but....

You will LOVE these....

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...=12959&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

I saw those in my industrial catalog yesterday and did consider them. I have a "cheater" or "gorilla bar" handle installed on my 10" vice grips that work in a similar manner.

I am going to research who made those, I'm sure snap on doesn't have a plant in argentina...

I also realized I used to use a 24" proto adjustable and a "ford" wrench, perhaps those need to go back into the collection.

 

[vssjim]

Martin makes a big crowfoot set in the 12 point line wrench style and they are not SO prices and work perfect.

 

[speed bump]

I saw those in my industrial catalog yesterday and did consider them. I have a "cheater" or "gorilla bar" handle installed on my 10" vice grips that work in a similar manner.

I am going to research who made those, I'm sure snap on doesn't have a plant in argentina...

I also realized I used to use a 24" proto adjustable and a "ford" wrench, perhaps those need to go back into the collection.

They are made by Bahco.

When I was mining we used 18-24" adjustables and if that didn't work we grabbed a pipe wrench between 36-60". On the rigs I try to glad the right wrench since its a shorter walk but the pipe wrenches still come out every once in a while.

By the way you can buy American made combination wrenches in most of those sizes from Cripe or Ebay for less than that set costs.

 

[hammergodthor]

Anyone ever used these? They are cheaper than the set you posted and include the same sizes.

http://www.tooltopia.com/v8-tools-7814.aspx

I just ordered those this weekend, that's the brand we have on the tool board at work. They seem pretty decent, they've been beat on for a couple years by everybody, and have held up. Dunno, but for the price I'm going to give them a shot.

We also use a Hammerhead air hammer bit to break them free. Pound on the corner in the direction you want to turn it, and they usually break free super easy.

 

[crewchief888]

Am still a bit leary of impact on a crows foot because my mind keeps imagining the extension trashing the square drive on the crowfoot? The ol ti-max hits pretty hard. Yet another reason chrome worries me a bit.

ive been using an impact on a couple of mine for 20 years, granted it doesnt happen every day.

i've only had to replace 1 over the years, and i broke that one with a 24" breaker bar.

i'm betting bobcatdan knows exacty what fittings i've had to impact loose

 

[ranger302]

i have that set and love it. $$$$ well spent!!.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I would think the square drive, or the breaker bar would be the weak link using crowfeet. I sometimes have to use a large one at work, and have always been leery of the breaker bar end letting go.

Charles

 

[diesel research]

Martin makes a big crowfoot set in the 12 point line wrench style and they are not SO prices and work perfect.

Thanks. Unfortunately, as stated earlier, line wrench type are not an option. The nature of many hydraulic hoses mean the hose is too fat to fit the cut out gap in flare wrenches. Flare type work well on tubing, but not hose. Open end is practically a must.

They are made by Bahco.

When I was mining we used 18-24" adjustables and if that didn't work we grabbed a pipe wrench between 36-60". On the rigs I try to glad the right wrench since its a shorter walk but the pipe wrenches still come out every once in a while.

By the way you can buy American made combination wrenches in most of those sizes from Cripe or Ebay for less than that set costs.

That you for the info on Bahco. I will have to price check later. I used a pipe wrench on a few....when I could.

Nice info on the american jumbo wrenches, but unfortunately, american combination wrenches didn't cut it. Not a single one failed, but quite a few left fasteners unturned. A combination of not enough length or not enough flexibility to reach certain areas. I imagine with a crowfoot, I could have flexibility and variable length a bit easier. Depending on the brand and price I may just buy them because I enjoy owning tools, albeit possibly not for use in this application. I used to use some old NAPA USA satin jumbo wrenches that had some nice length, but those are not made anymore.

I used to use wrenches up to 4-1/2", they were a beast to hold, let alone carry. Mostly just as a backup or hammer wrench.

I just ordered those this weekend, that's the brand we have on the tool board at work. They seem pretty decent, they've been beat on for a couple years by everybody, and have held up. Dunno, but for the price I'm going to give them a shot.

We also use a Hammerhead air hammer bit to break them free. Pound on the corner in the direction you want to turn it, and they usually break free super easy.

Yes, A hammerhead or even concave "tierod rattler" head will possibly be employed.

i have that set and love it. $$$$ well spent!!.

Which set do you own/love? Quite a few tools have been mentioned in this thread.

 

[hammergodthor]

Diesel,
I just received this V8 set today from Tooltopia @ $62.67 + shipping. This is the set we have on the tool board at work, and as I said they have been beat on quite a bit and are still fine. We spend a lot of time here discussing how manufacturers are taking money out of tools (cheapening them) so I can't comment on the current "quality" although they look the same to me. Of the few wrenches I measured, the jaws were square to within about .005 in.

http://www.tooltopia.com/v8-tools-7814.aspx

Hope this helps!

 

[diesel research]

Still don't have crowfoot set yet, but had another similar "decommissioning" job today.

Want to thank bobcatdan and crewchief for helping me knock several hours off the job.

I tried a general "shake and brake" technique on the seized fittings. The fittings laughed at me. Semi-dull chisel. I got curious and tried a bushing cutter. It actually had moderate success.

When trying to keep the chisel in place against the flats of the fittings, it would walk, so I came up with an idea. I got out the cutoff tool and made a slit in the fittings, so the chisel could be steadied. Worked better than expected. The chisel would split and open the fittings, thus freeing them, and then by tilting hammer, easily drove fittings off. No damage to adjoining fitting threads.

 

[BrokewrenchLS1]

If you need to get the fittings hot, would a heat gun work instead of a torch? We have one here in the lab we use for equipment that can't be exposed to flame but has excessively-tight fittings that need loosened (amazing what software engineers can do with the wrong tools), and I've used the same thing on a couple guns I've assembled. Doesn't get things quite as hot as a torch, but it's still pretty effective.

 

[4x4gearhead]

I know about the ez-red butterfly wrenches. Kind of a pain to have to remove drive tool every time you need to reposition. Really open end is the only option on hydro fittings most times.

I had a set of ratcheting wrenches for smaller hydraulic lines that completely encompassed the fitting, but they wouldn't be ideal for this application either.

I had a set before, but they went "missing". I will buy another set for smaller fittings under 1" someday.


As far as sunnex/GRIP/MIT I am a bit concerned if they are made of a "tough" steel that tolerates me pounding with my sledge, not just a hard continuous pull. I imagine I'd chip the chrome off pretty quick. Same goes for snappy.

I also see there may be a need for this in the future:
http://www.fluxeon.com/inductionheaters.html

This style of wrench actually ratchets the opposite way you would be pulling, the armstrong set ive used did anyways, so maybe these might be the best as far as holding up, I work on hydraulics day to day myself in the 1 1/4 to 2 1/8 range.

Also, I use the same hammer head style air hammer bits one like that and one made by grey pneumatic that is like 5 in long. These are my go to for impossible to reach fittings without taking half the machine apart. it isnt always gingerly on the fitting but it gets them off.

 

[crewchief888]

Still don't have crowfoot set yet, but had another similar "decommissioning" job today.

Want to thank bobcatdan and crewchief for helping me knock several hours off the job.

I tried a general "shake and brake" technique on the seized fittings. The fittings laughed at me. Semi-dull chisel. I got curious and tried a bushing cutter. It actually had moderate success.

When trying to keep the chisel in place against the flats of the fittings, it would walk, so I came up with an idea. I got out the cutoff tool and made a slit in the fittings, so the chisel could be steadied. Worked better than expected. The chisel would split and open the fittings, thus freeing them, and then by tilting hammer, easily drove fittings off. No damage to adjoining fitting threads.

whatever it takes to get the job done.

dontcha kinda get that feeling of satisfaction that a hyd hose didnt whip yerass today?

 

[diesel research]

whatever it takes to get the job done.

dontcha kinda get that feeling of satisfaction that a hyd hose didnt whip yerass today?

It was met with it's fair share of cynics making comments like "man, you are obsessed with using air hammers. First you were chiseling out hub seals and now you are chiseling off fittings"

Of course it was only an hour later before I started hearing "hey, can you go get that air hammer? These fittings are stuck"