Educate me pls on compressor science 101

[romafern]

G'day!

My search for a new compressor has begun (yes, here we go again... another FNG with more questions). Currently have a CH 30 gal direct drive. It has done me well but it has a leak possible at a weld spot. Have not really found the exact spot but it leaks. Plus is madafa LOUD!


I've decided to get the massive upgrade and get one of the good ones. Quincy is the only brand I want but where I start to get cloudy is the part of aftercoolers and intercoolers.


What is their exact need and use? I have a general idea about what they do->cooling air and removing the water...but like for a joey like me who paints (not cars) but other stuff and monkey wrench in my garage when I am not earning my money at the real job, would I be going overkill?


I really want to keep this new unit as dry as possible but without going for a second mortage. I am willing to spend up to $3500. I think my CH unit gave up b/c it really collected water at the tank's bottom (vertical type). I always tried to drain the water as much as possible but the water really looked rusty colored.


So, pls educate me or talk me out getting a unit with an aftercooler. Is it best to have an intercooler/aftercooler combo or just one?


On the motor, is it better to get more horsepower? Some of the units I am looking at are 5 hp and some 7.5 hp.


I am all ears and ready to learn. Thank you for your mentoring.

 

[theoldwizard1]

If this is for a "home" shop you don't need any coolers. They are primarily for compressor that run (nearly) continuously.

3 - 5 hp is also adequate for a home shop (well, sand blasters take a lot of CFM so check on that). Single stage is good for up to 125 -150 psi, which again is adequate.

At least a 30 gallon tank. Get a good external water separator.

 

[romafern]

Thanks for the reply theoldwizard. So what you are saying that for my random 2-4 day projects on a random basis would be overkill...

Got any good online places of where to buy accessories like "a good external water separator"?

Isn't a single stage loud?

 

[MoonRise]

An 60-80 gallon 5 HP (real 5 HP, not 5 'developed' or 'peak' HP) compressor can do most if not all home-shop related tasks, maybe short of running some big mofo sand blaster.

Nmae-brand like Quincy should be a good choice.

Also note that running a single-phase electric motor gets more difficult (because of motor characteristics and electric power delivery) once you go over the 5 HP mark (in general).

As to water collecting inside an air compressor's tank, well, they all do that. Because they all take in air from the atmosphere and then compress it inside the tank. When that tank cools off, all that atmospheric moisture (aka humidity) condenses and turns into liquid water. Which collects at the bottom of the tank, and can cause rusting out of said tank.

Hence the invention of the auto-drain for air compressors.

Either that, or you periodically and regularly blip the drain valve on the bottom of the tank to let the water out.

As to the aftercooler or intercooler on an air compressor, they are there to help the water vapor that is still in all that compressed air to cool and turn back into liquid water. Again, good things so that your air tools (and especially paint stuff) doesn't spit water out (the compressed air expands and thus cools when it goes from the compressed state back to atmospheric pressure, and thus yet more water vapor that was in that compressed air cools enough to condense and turn back into liquid water.

Critical usage tasks may require various water vapor management techniques, of which inter/after coolers may just be one part. Dessicant dryers and refrigerated air dryers are other tools/devices that may be used to help ensure clean, dry air goes to the tools.

But pretty much, no matter what, you have to either regulary manually drain condensed water out of your air tank or set up an auto drain. Or your new air tank will also rust out from the inside as well.

 

[ranger302]

I have the IR SL5. 60 gal tank 125 psi (read single stage), 15 cfm (@90 psi), 5 hp, 1phase 220v. Great for all the sandblasting and painting I do. I also rebuild air rats for work so I am alwase using air, and have never waited for air. I spent less than $800 at Northern Tool for mine. Please Consider this one.

 

[rsanter]

for doing any real work I think you need a 60 gal unit. they are not that much more than the 30 gal ones
you can step up to an 80 gal but you need to ask if you really need that

no less than 3 hp with a 5 being good
I think if you are over 7 you may be pushing the size more than you need unless you are really doing serious work with multiple users

bob

 

[theoldwizard1]

Isn't a single stage loud?

All compressors are loud. Period.

The external water separator I was referring to is one that prevent moisture from getting into your tools or paint gun. You will always accumulate water in the tank which must be drained, automatically or manually. If you are going to paint, you also need a external filter.

3 HP with a 30 gallon tanks might be a bit small, if you are think of doing any sand blasting. It will run 1/2" impacts, air chisels, and most paint guns and die grinders.

Something like what Ranger302 mentioned (5 HP, 60 gallon, 125 psi max, 15 cfm @ 90 psi) would be perfect, if you can afford it. That could easily handle sand blasting, air drills, air rotatory sanders/polishers. Probably not big enough for 1" impacts or jack hammers !

 

[romafern]

Man! You guys are grounded

But at the same time, I welcome the realistic opinions. I hate waiting for air and I have been there... so I want 175 psi. I really like the QT 7.5 I saw at a Northern Tools Store earlier today. I just got a cloudy picture when it came to the intercooler/aftercooler part.


MoonRise, pls elaborate on what you said on this: Also note that running a single-phase electric motor gets more difficult (because of motor characteristics and electric power delivery) once you go over the 5 HP mark (in general).

Will I have any issues wiring this unit to a house garage setting? You lost me with the comment above.

I had my eye on IR units as well but I have read/heard issues with their pumps. Not sure if that has been fixed or still ongoing. I want to be able to fix the unit if it came to it but with a Quincy, perhaps my son will have to do that when he inherits the compressor many moons from now.


Again, keep the mentoring coming. I really welcome it and it helps me get more knowledge and gray hairs

 

[romafern]

All compressors are loud. Period.

Sure but a 2 stage is a lot quieter compared to my CH 30 gal that I have. I wear earmuffs and earplugs just to pretend is not running

 

[romafern]

for doing any real work I think you need a 60 gal unit. they are not that much more than the 30 gal ones
you can step up to an 80 gal but you need to ask if you really need that

no less than 3 hp with a 5 being good
I think if you are over 7 you may be pushing the size more than you need unless you are really doing serious work with multiple users

bob

But would a 7.5 hp motor not be better than a 5hp motored unit? It may **** more juice but in the long run, would it work with less effort than the 5hp?

I am starting to get a headache..

 

[Zrexxer]

If this is for a "home" shop you don't need any coolers. They are primarily for compressor that run (nearly) continuously

There's a blanket statement that can be 100% wrong in a hundred different ways.

It has nothing to do with compressor that run continuously. It has everything to do with whether hot compressed air is cooling and condensing and passing water into your air stream.

If you're plasma cutting, plasma consumables hate moisture. It will literally destroy a new cup and electrode in a matter of minutes.

Powder coating? Having to scrape wet caked paint powder out of your gun because it's soaked with condensate from the air lines is no fun.

Glass beading? It's no fun having your gun clog with wet glass bead every few seconds either.

Oh, and when you're making that final pass on a perfect paint job, and a big drop of water pukes right out of the spray gun and lands on your panel, that's the best of all.

I do every one of these things in my "home" shop. There are dozens of other reasons to need coolers to condense out moisture. I run a refrigerated cooler on my scroll compressor for really dry air. With a budget of $3500 you should be able to accomplish a really world-class air system for your shop and still have money left over.

 

[romafern]

Thanks for the feedback Z. May I call you Z?

I am thinking of this one http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Quincy-271C80VCBM-Air-Compressor/p3347.html

or this one: Quincy MAX 251C80VCBM 5HP 240V 1Ph Vertical 80 Gallon 17.2CFM @ 175PSI Two-Stage Air Compressor

 

[JCQuick]

I just purchased a 5 hp 60gal quincy(and I work for a saylor beall distributer)
This thing we are sure is going to do everything we ask of it. It's pretty quite specialy compared to my old oilless craftsman that i've had for 30+ years.

its a QT54 delivers 15.4cfm @100 psi 15.2@175. Its heavyest use will be doing body work on some projects in the garage.
Last night I striped a VW crank(remove the rods and gears) with my 3/8 butteryfly and it never even came on.
We absolutely love it.
My #2 son works ina body shop accross the street from the quincy distributer here. we searched on line and found it for $1290.00 + $75.00 for a lift gate on the truck. He took that quote across the street and got it for $1200.00 even plus they threw in oil for the first change. We saved the liftgate charge +90.00 and supported the local economy
We picked it up with one of his buddys lawn trailers and we able to just slide it off.

 

[JCQuick]

Roma thats the same place that I printed the quote from and took to the local dist.

 

[romafern]

wish I could do that JC but the closest to me is about 120 miles... Nice unit you have there.

 

[YZ Rider]

If I was you, I would check out Eaton, Quietest compressor that I know of. Not to mention the prices aren't bad
Here's a link:
http://www.eatoncompressor.com/page/page/504747.htm

 

[romafern]

Thanks for the suggestion YZ, but it has to be a Quincy.

 

[coldfusion21]

Amy reason? Eaton and kellog American are top tier compressors.

Also the more air you use ( and compress) the more water your gonna see. An auto drain and some sorta drier night be needed depending on humidity and temperature along with usage.

 

[romafern]

And where do you see Quincy? Just curious

 

[chrommagman]

TI am thinking of this one http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Quincy-271C80VCBM-Air-Compressor/p3347.html/QUOTE]


that is a very good unit !!!!! if you have the funds to buy it do so!!!!

I have one question, do you have a 230 outlet in your garage ?

 

[Zrexxer]

Amy reason? Eaton and kellog American are top tier compressors.

I don't think I'd even mention Kellogg-American and Eaton in the same sentence, let alone call Eaton "top-tier."

Eaton imports Chinese knockoffs of Saylor Beall pumps, assembles them onto a tank, and then plasters US flag stickers all over it to try and distract the buyer about where it was actually made.

If I had the budget the OP does for a compressor, I'd undoubtedly be looking at a Saylor Beall. Heck, they're even the pump the Chinese chose to copy

I know Quincy still makes good products, but I lost a little respect for them when they started marketing cheap value-line compressors through mass retailers like Northern Tool. Same for IR.

 

[pop pop]

I've been around so many compressors I can't hear now - read experience. Two stage, intercooled will give more air/higher pressure @ less HP. Valves will run cooler and last longer too. As mentioned, not necessary for most of us. It can be slowed down and lessen the noise. You will not get "rid" of water. It comes in with every stroke in the air. You just control it and get rid of it where you want, not in your tools or on your work.

As to size, figure out what you are going to do first. If you use a lot of air in infrequent intervals, get a bigger storage tank and/or higher storage pressure. If you use a lot of air over a long time, you gotta buy cfm and storage isn't so important, but cooling and moisture control will be. Remember, slower is better if you get the cfm you need.

Electrically, the higher the voltage the cheaper to run. Most of us will be stuck with 220 single phase. With good wire, you'll top out about 5 HP. 3 ph or 480 gets you anything you want. You may need a starter switch for 5 HP and definately will if you go higher.

Most of us stay under 5HP and 220v and single stage compressors cause they fit in easy and make "enough" air - and are relatively cheap.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Sure ****** is better. How big is your wallet ?

Very few tools need more than more than 100-125 psi. They need more CFM ! If you have a big wallet, go for the 175 psi 2 stage compressor.

As I said before, for a "home" shop 5hp, twin cylinder, single stage with a 60 gal tank is more than adequate.

 

[theoldwizard1]

If this is for a "home" shop you don't need any coolers. They are primarily for compressor that run (nearly) continuously.

There's a blanket statement that can be 100% wrong in a hundred different ways.

It has nothing to do with compressor that run continuously. It has everything to do with whether hot compressed air is cooling and condensing and passing water into your air stream.

Not to start a p!issing contest, but ...

The following statement is from a company that sells coolers

Functions of compressed air aftercoolers

Cool air discharged from air compressors via the heat exchanger
Reduce risk of fire (Hot compressed air pipes can be a source of ignition)
Reduce compressed air moisture level
Increase system capacity
Protect downstream equipment from excessive heat

Only 1 of the benefits is reducing moisture.

Furthermore, the air coolers they sell are for compressors 20 cfm and larger. Water cooled are for compressors 130 cfm. Not many home shops have that size of compressor.

I do every one of these things in my "home" shop. There are dozens of other reasons to need coolers to condense out moisture. I run a refrigerated cooler on my scroll compressor for really dry air. With a budget of $3500 you should be able to accomplish a really world-class air system for your shop and still have money left over.

If you have that kind of money to spend, sure get a cooler. Heck, get a couple. I would bet that less than 25% of the guys here have a scroll compressor at home.

I would still run a filter and water separator close to where I plug my hose in.

 

[W-Cummins]

An intercooler is used for a completely different function than an aftercooler is.
The intercooler is used to increase the thermodynamic efficiency of a multistage compressor. It reduces the temperature of the compressed gas between the stages of the compressor, and allows the compression of the gas to higher pressures using less energy. You will find that most 2 stage compressors have one for this reason.
The aftercooler is used to cool the compressed gas to lower its water carrying capacity. It is normally placed after the compressor, and before the receiver tank. As you reduce the temperature the water vapor will condense and can be removed, normally it's better to remove this bulk water ( with a water seperator) BEFORE you dump it into the receiver tank.

Now the use of your compressed air will normally determine if you need to remove the water from the air. If you need dry air you will want an aftercooler and other methods to remove the water and the water vapor from the air.

Normally to remove the water from the air stream you need to condence the water vapor to "filter" or remove it. It is possiable to remove water vapor by a chemcial process using a desecant, but that is not a common methoud for a small system. So you need to cool the air to condense it and then remove the condensate by some mechanical means. A water separator will remove large water droplets like you will get from the cooling of the aftercooler. To remove finer water particles ( like a fog/mist) you would use a coalescing filter. The coalescing filter works by allowing the water droplets to aggregate or coalesce on a filter media forming larger drops that wick off the media and then can be drained away. They are rated on the size of droplets they will remove and are used in sets to remove ever finer water droplets from the air.

As for your question about the 7.5 hp compressor vs say a 5hp unit, my "opinion" is, if your plaining on any regular sand/media blasting to get at least the 7.5hp machine. Light blasting the 5hp will work but, less hp than that blasting is a cruel joke.

William....

 

[coldfusion21]

I don't think I'd even mention Kellogg-American and Eaton in the same sentence, let alone call Eaton "top-tier."

Eaton imports Chinese knockoffs of Saylor Beall pumps, assembles them onto a tank, and then plasters US flag stickers all over it to try and distract the buyer about where it was actually made.

If I had the budget the OP does for a compressor, I'd undoubtedly be looking at a Saylor Beall. Heck, they're even the pump the Chinese chose to copy

I know Quincy still makes good products, but I lost a little respect for them when they started marketing cheap value-line compressors through mass retailers like Northern Tool. Same for IR.

Hmm. You learn something new everyday.

How long has eaton been using imported pumps? Are we sure Quincy is solely made in us? Sorry for the questions but it seems my top tier compressor knowledge is a bit off.

 

[Zrexxer]

How long has eaton been using imported pumps?

Hi Cold, I'll try not to derail the OP's thread too much, as there are several people here who have Eatons and swear by them, but IMO they've historically been shady about the whole issue. This is an interesting read: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/eat...e-over-made-china-compressor-post-143953.html

 

[romafern]

Guys,

I really, really appreciate the input. Some of you have given me info on what I really need/wanted to know. Once I decide on the final model, I will come back with more questions on how to wire it and how to properly run lines from it. My 30gal CH was my first compressor and I learned a lot from it. But at that time, that is all I could get my hands on.

Some mentioned the size of the wallet. Well folks, I said it at the start. I do not want to go over 3500.

As a matter of fact, I am torn between these two models:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200350477_200350477

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200370975_200370975

The big diff is that one has the aftercooler and the auto pneumatic drain and some other things.

This is where I am torn and this is where the start of this thread comes into play. I know I will have water in the system regardless. Is part of life but I want to keep this at a minimum as much as possible. My CH unit is barely over 13 yrs since the date on the stamping. It sat in storage empty for 3 years in a Colorado warehouse while I was in Germany. Not sure if this had something to do with the leak I have in it. I think it is at a weld point but I have not looked at it closely.

Others have told me about other brands. Well folks, I am sold on the Quincy because many of you have them and the comments made by some of you is what has me going and wanting to join on the big fan club. Is it made 100% in the USA? To include the bearings and the labels? I do not know. Ever since I found this site, I have been reading and researching about a compressor. Quincy was always on top. My mind was initially set on an IR but after reading lots of comments about them here and other dark sides of the web, I set on Quincy.

Not to fuel the fire but that thread about Eaton units on that other forum had me thinking as well...Everyone here is entitled to get and like what they want. Like me. I really want a big mofo and you are telling me is way overkill for what I do. In fact, you guys do more wrenching in a weekend that I do in 3 months.

The house I live, is a rental with obviously no 220 in the garage. I think finding 220 outlets in the garage are rare. So, I plan on running an extension from the dryer plug (if doable) or I have my 10k gen set to run it from...but this would be the last resort. I think the extension method would be easier..

As for the cooler part questions and size of motor, I like to go over with certain tools. My philosophy is to buy more now and have it, than find out later that I am under powered for a project later down the road.


Again, I am in debt for all the knowledge/opinions and experiences shared in here.

Right now, I have to attend a briefing as I am getting ready to deploy. My plan is to buy one of those two units above when I return.

Decisions, decisions....


Cheers!

 

[MoonRise]

Air delivery and 'waiting for air' depend on two things (well, three actually).

Large air demand on an intermittent basis (impact wrench or other tool used for short time spans but air-hungry uses): Depends on air tank size AND the air pressure in the tank. Bigger tank and/or bigger air pressure in the tank means more air to run the tool. That is use scenario 1-and-2. But once that air is used up, then you are into use scenario #3:

How much air can the compressor pump deliver (sustained usage) : Bigger pump (bigger pistons/cylinders, more pistons/cylinder, meaning a bigger HP motor to drive the pump) means more air.

Slight 'finesse' consideration is that single-stage pumps (no matter how many pistons/cylinders) are not as 'efficient' at greater than ~150 psi or so. For higher air tank storage pressures (because most air tools only run at ~90 psi or so), a two-stage compressor pump (where the first stage is a bigger size piston/cylinder and the second-stage smaller diameter piston/cylinder then compresses that already 'partially' compressed air) is 'better' and more efficient. Most of the 2-stage pumps I've seen have an intercooler inbetween the two stages (the piping between the stages has some heat-transfer fins and is located in the air steam from the pulley 'fan').

More generalities. Oil-less compressors are louder than oil-lube compressors, and generally don't last as long. Faster rpm compressor pumps are louder than slower rpm compressor pumps. Bigger is louder than smaller.

The comment I made previously about bigger than 5 HP motor being a bit more difficult electrically in a house is that the wiring and circuit breaker requirements change a bit. Not impossible, just a bit more planning and different parts (breaker and wire and such) than the 'usual' garage 240V outlet.

As to your running those pretty big 7.5 HP units off an extension cord from a 240V dryer outlet in a rental home,

Nope.

Electric dryers usually run a 30 amp 240V outlet. Those big 7.5HP compressors are calling for 40 amp circuits. And an extension cord? Nope.

If you don't have (and in a rental, you really don't unless the owner for some reason did 'shop/garage' stuff in the garage on their own) dedicated 'big' 240V compressor outlets already there, you may have to rethink your power source for the compressor and go with a gas-powered unit and not an electric. And no, even your 10kw gen set really can't run a big 7.5 HP air compressor (start-up surge on that big electric motor will probably run around 20 kw surge).

Drawbacks? Loud (compressor plus an engine running, maintenance on a gas engine, exhaust fumes, etc. But if you don't have (or can't get) the needed electrical power, you really don't have a choice.

 

[mikeyr]

good choice on the Quincy, I replaced my Quincy with a Champion but I would be happy with either one of them. You can't go wrong with that quality of compressor.

 

[A_Pmech]

Agreed with what Moonrise said. If you weren't renting it would be a simple issue to install the necessary electrical equipment. In light of your current location, I would look for a good used Quincy QR series unit off of craigslist or Ebay.

The QR line is Quincy's best reciprocating pump. They're pressure lubricated and designed for a 50,000+ hour lifespan. A model 310 or 325 pump running a 3HP motor would be more suitable for your current location. Such a machine could be run from a section of SOOW cord with a dryer plug installed on the end.

A 3hp unit would provide all the air you currently need. Although I recently bought a substantially larger compressor, my Ingersoll Rand SS3L has been sufficient for my machine shop uses, it only falls short when sandblasting.

 

[Todd.Brock]

In terms of need vs. want, It seems the Quincy could really grow with your needs. But, if your electrical service can sustain it, then its a moot point.

I was looking at Old Car Guy's set up just the other day. I am quoting his post on compressors
" There is an auto drain at the bottom of the 80-gallon compressor tank that is set for 1 second blasts every 15 minutes. The air then goes through an over-sized coalescing filter that removes any oil and particles larger than 1 micron. The compressed air is cooled and enters a 55 CFM BelAir refrigerated dryer to take any remaining moisture out. Followed by a final .01 micron filtering before it is piped underground."

 

[W-Cummins]

Guys,



Some mentioned the size of the wallet. Well folks, I said it at the start. I do not want to go over 3500.

As a matter of fact, I am torn between these two models:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200350477_200350477

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200370975_200370975

The big diff is that one has the aftercooler and the auto pneumatic drain and some other things.



The house I live, is a rental with obviously no 220 in the garage. I think finding 220 outlets in the garage are rare. So, I plan on running an extension from the dryer plug (if doable) or I have my 10k gen set to run it from...but this would be the last resort. I think the extension method would be easier..

As for the cooler part questions and size of motor, I like to go over with certain tools. My philosophy is to buy more now and have it, than find out later that I am under powered for a project later down the road.


Again, I am in debt for all the knowledge/opinions and experiences shared in here.

Right now, I have to attend a briefing as I am getting ready to deploy. My plan is to buy one of those two units above when I return.

Decisions, decisions....


Cheers!

Well those 2 units are really the same compressor and the second is $1100 more for the options. IMHO it's not worth the extra $$$ just to get an aftercooler and a tank drain. You can get those items for WAY less $$$$.

Also as others have said your SOL on running either of those compressors ( same motor and pump) with 30 amps and it's just not going to work! A 5hp unit will run just fine on a 30 amps IF the total branch circuit ( including any extension cord) is properly sized and is not too long.

William....

 

[romafern]

Thanks again for all the explanations. Great bunch of good people in here...

MoonRise's last post covered a lot and somehow put me back in reality... I am now starting to see why a lot of people here have the 5hp motors and searching online I see the ones that have been selling as well. So my mind has changed and now I am eyeballing the 5hp units on the Quincy line. That was until APMech suggested the QR line. Now you got me curious...

I have been to the Quincy site a lot of times and I must say that their site is very plain. I get more info here or from the online retailers about their units.

Can some fine member point me to a place that has the QR line units? I've searched, googled and can't even see anything close to what I am looking for. I spoke with someone at Northern Tool but they were no help.

Thanks!

 

[romafern]

In terms of need vs. want, It seems the Quincy could really grow with your needs. But, if your electrical service can sustain it, then its a moot point.

I was looking at Old Car Guy's set up just the other day. I am quoting his post on compressors
" There is an auto drain at the bottom of the 80-gallon compressor tank that is set for 1 second blasts every 15 minutes. The air then goes through an over-sized coalescing filter that removes any oil and particles larger than 1 micron. The compressed air is cooled and enters a 55 CFM BelAir refrigerated dryer to take any remaining moisture out. Followed by a final .01 micron filtering before it is piped underground."

I've seen that description somewhere in this forum...very intricate eh?

 

[romafern]

Well those 2 units are really the same compressor and the second is $1100 more for the options. IMHO it's not worth the extra $$$ just to get an aftercooler and a tank drain. You can get those items for WAY less $$$$.

Also as others have said your SOL on running either of those compressors ( same motor and pump) with 30 amps and it's just not going to work! A 5hp unit will run just fine on a 30 amps IF the total branch circuit ( including any extension cord) is properly sized and is not too long.

William....

You are right about what you said on your post. I kept going back and forth analyzing as to why the big jump on price and such...later realized that the auto drain could be a lot cheaper to do it myself...just like the aftercooler.

As far as the SOL and the connections, oh well...as much as I despise the current place where I am, a keg of beer makes me forget it all. Thanks for your realistic input. Cheers!

 

[Zrexxer]

Just to throw another bug in the beer, there are some other pressure-lubed compressors in the same price range. Champion has its Model # VPL5-8, which an 80 gallon vertical, 5 HP single phase at 23 amps, and makes 17.3 cfm @ 175 psi. I have two Champions, so you could say I kinda like them

 

[theoldwizard1]

Anyone willing to spend more than $2,000 for a compressor is certainly not planning on a typical "home" shop. You guys are out of my league.

I can not understand why anyone would need more than a 5HP single stage compressor for a "home" shop ! Take the money you save and buy some good air tools !

 

[jrsulo]

Anyone willing to spend more than $2,000 for a compressor is certainly not planning on a typical "home" shop. You guys are out of my league.

I can not understand why anyone would need more than a 5HP single stage compressor for a "home" shop ! Take the money you save and buy some good air tools !

Your kidding ???......With this group !!!!.....Bigger is better and 40 ratchets are better than one !!!!!!!!!