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Need a better way to store my sockets..

MilesToEmpty

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Dec 14, 2010
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55
I just recently bought 2 tool sets from sears. A 255 and a 309 piece. both socket sets with wrenches.

Problem is, I dont have an idea how to store them... without spending $100 in holders for everything.

I did purchase this set:
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/tool-storage/6-piece-socket-drawer-organizers-99717.html

But from Craftsman for $10 more :headscrat But it takes up alot of room for what it holds.

And one of the sets came with 3" long sockets that I cant just stand up lol.

Ive seen alot of different options... But Im kinda stuck on which way to go. for now all the ones that dont fit in the trays due to duplicates (2 sets, but this was intended) or height... fill up my other drawers lol.

I really like this style:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002STSTY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

But Id spend over $100 in just the holders alone :mad:
 
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canuckian

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unfortunately, the more effective socket storage solutions aren't cheap. A few people here have used the metal rails that can be had at HF for cheap and riveted them onto a piece of wood or aluminum.
 
OP
M

MilesToEmpty

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I was even considering a giant magnetic surface for 3 drawers (1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" each have their own drawer) but Im not sure where I could get a giant magnetic surface like that.
 

canuckian

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I'd say that would be more of a hassle than anything but hey, we all have our preferences. I just think that everything that went in there would stick to the magnets, rust shavings and all and would be a ****** to get out. but if you're set on that, have a look at some craft supplies stores for magnetic mats.
 

lauver

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Belton, TX
MTE,

Do you have a top chest? If so, use the top bin of the chest as your "socket central" (1/4"-1/2", Metric & SAE, standard & Deep). The top bin is usually big enough to hold all of your chrome sockets standing up. You can line the top bin with magnetic tape, wall to wall. Your sockets will all stand up and won't move anywhere, except when you grab them.

Store your ratchets, extensions, U-joints, adapters, spinner handles, etc, in the top drawer or two of your roll cab where they will be real handy and easy to get to.

It works for me, give it a try.
 

Altec

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I just picked up those Ernst knock offs to test. Not bad, although the 1/2 gets sketchy... Can post pictures tomorrow if anyone would like.

Check out the VIM 444 tray on Tooltopia. These are a great option. I love them. Lowes sells a version as well for $25. Been meaning to pick one up to test.

http://www.tooltopia.com/vim-v444.aspx
 

illmatyk

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Yigo, Guam
MTE,

Do you have a top chest? If so, use the top bin of the chest as your "socket central" (1/4"-1/2", Metric & SAE, standard & Deep). The top bin is usually big enough to hold all of your chrome sockets standing up. You can line the top bin with magnetic tape, wall to wall. Your sockets will all stand up and won't move anywhere, except when you grab them.

Store your ratchets, extensions, U-joints, adapters, spinner handles, etc, in the top drawer or two of your roll cab where they will be real handy and easy to get to.

It works for me, give it a try.

i kinda sorta use this method. The 3rd drawer on my topbox holds my sockets. My 3/8 deep chrome sockets and allen head sockets are mounted on a Cman rail as well as my 1/4 shallow sockets( or at least the ones I have ).

My other sockets are mounted on something like this:
http://www.google.com/products/cata...=TXk2Toi8CMPWiALJs_25CA&sqi=2&ved=0CB0Q8gIwAQ

I paid $15 Australian dollars for it so it comes up to close to $20 USD I think.

Before my current set up, I was using all rails for my sockets but I felt there was alot of wasted space. Sure enough when I got that socket tray from Australia, I had a bunch of space left and was able to fit a little bit more things there.:beer:
 

pj_rage

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Dec 24, 2010
Messages
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I love the Hansen knockoffs from harbor freight. They work great IMO. I like they way they work, too, where the drive end of the socket fits into a mock square drive on the tray. Ie, the tray has a 3/8" drive where all the 3/8" sockets go. Greatly increases the chances that a given socket will fit -- basically if it fits your rachet it will fit the pegs. Save for a couple really stubby sockets that the tray drive square is too tall for. Simple mod to get them to fit properly. Storing them this way, instead of the hansen way, is also great because you can see the business end of the socket to quickly see if it's 6 point or 12 point. I'm really happy with them, anyway. I like them better overall than the hansen ones, and they are cheaper, too.
 

WRX/Z28

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HF was running a 50% off coupon on the hansen trays... i'm not seeing their flyer at the moment though...
 

NJHandyGuy

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Brick Nj baby
I'd say that would be more of a hassle than anything but hey, we all have our preferences. I just think that everything that went in there would stick to the magnets, rust shavings and all and would be a ****** to get out. but if you're set on that, have a look at some craft supplies stores for magnetic mats.

not really i have one in one of my drawers

i put paper over it once a month i change the paer and have a clean drawer
 

diggerrick

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Dec 1, 2010
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996
The HF trays were $5 with ITC coupon that ended yesterday. My 1/2" drive HF impacts fit fine, but I don't have any 3/8" impacts to confirm they fit. I bought them for my chests and like them a lot. I have a couple small beefs:

1) 1/2" drive metric set only goes up to 27mm
2) not enough 32nd sizes in the 3/8" drive SAE tray

Prior to these, for several years I had the older style single red HF plate style holder that was discontinued some time ago. I swore by it until I realized how limited it was with metric sockets (I used almost none until the last 5 years), and they didn't keep deep sockets up very well.

I have one 3/8" rail with clips that I hate because I can't grab a socket with one hand. I use it to keep a few random sockets from rolling around the drawer in my basement.
 

Singlecut

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Great Falls
Man, this is the reason I found this place. I googled "socket organizer" and I kept coming back to this site. We have a dozen or so threads on this and I've read most of them. What I can say from experience is that you just have to take the time to look at what's out there. There are pros and cons to all organizers. That's where you have to be honest to yourself and take a look at how you work. Do you take a whole set of sockets to your workpiece or do you work right next to your box? When you come across a fastener are you good at looking at it and knowing what size it is? And then you have to figure, How much space do I want to conserve/take up organizing sockets?

I tell you what, IMO, Hansen trays are bar-none for speed and organization. However, I will never own/ use one because I am the kinda guy that DOES want to lay down a socket set on the hood cowl when I'm working. I don't think the durability of those are there. And I can't afford the space and the cost of them in my box.

I use some rails, the convenience is tops and you can always add clips as you expand through the years. That was the best reason for me. I hate it though, when you get a slight bend in the metal and it kinks so the rail becomes trashed.

I also currently use those Lisle magnetic holders. They will NOT survive being picked up and moved around because those magnets just don't hold well. So I keep my sockets I don't use too often in them and I keep em in a drawer in the box. It's great when I come across an odball nut, open the drawer, see what I need right away, use it and put it back. Neatly.

My FAVORITE way, aesthetically, functionally, and spatially, is to go old school. Socket sets used to come in a metal box that just had the sockets standing up in different sections.

Tool-Box-Socket-Trays.jpg


SKsoktsetlorez1.jpg



So what I did is pick myself up a cheap o 4-1/2" grinder, get some good metal stock and some rivets. I took the top of my Craftsman box and divided it out like an old school box. And I just stand my sockets up neatly in their own section. It's a great weekend project and I'm still working on it. I want to be able to put a handle on it and take the whole shebang out from the top and throw it under a car.
Mostly, I like that it makes you THINK and develop the spatial skills to just look at a fastener and know what size it is. I'm terrible at it right now but we'll get there..
 
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05CarbonDRZ

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May 21, 2011
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Cottage Grove,WI
Man, this is the reason I found this place. I googled "socket organizer" and I kept coming back to this site. We have a dozen or so threads on this and I've read most of them. What I can say from experience is that you just have to take the time to look at what's out there. There are pros and cons to all organizers. That's where you have to be honest to yourself and take a look at how you work. Do you take a whole set of sockets to your workpiece or do you work right next to your box? When you come across a fastener are you good at looking at it and knowing what size it is? And then you have to figure, How much space do I want to conserve/take up organizing sockets?

I tell you what, IMO, Hansen trays are bar-none for speed and organization. However, I will never own/ use one because I am the kinda guy that DOES want to lay down a socket set on the hood cowl when I'm working. I don't think the durability of those are there. And I can't afford the space and the cost of them in my box.

I use some rails, the convenience is tops and you can always add clips as you expand through the years. That was the best reason for me. I hate it though, when you get a slight bend in the metal and it kinks so the rail becomes trashed.

I also currently use those Lisle magnetic holders. They will NOT survive being picked up and moved around because those magnets just don't hold well. So I keep my sockets I don't use too often in them and I keep em in a drawer in the box. It's great when I come across an odball nut, open the drawer, see what I need right away, use it and put it back. Neatly.

My FAVORITE way, aesthetically, functionally, and spatially, is to go old school. Socket sets used to come in a metal box that just had the sockets standing up in different sections.

Tool-Box-Socket-Trays.jpg


SKsoktsetlorez1.jpg



So what I did is pick myself up a cheap o 4-1/2" grinder, get some good metal stock and some rivets. I took the top of my Craftsman box and divided it out like an old school box. And I just stand my sockets up neatly in their own section. It's a great weekend project and I'm still working on it. I want to be able to put a handle on it and take the whole shebang out from the top and throw it under a car.
Mostly, I like that it makes you THINK and develop the spatial skills to just look at a fastener and know what size it is. I'm terrible at it right now but we'll get there..

Anyone have a idea where to get the small red metal socket boxes by them selves?
 

BrokewrenchLS1

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WV
I'm sort of partial to the red trays the Craftsman sockets come in when you buy one of the bigger mechanic's sets. Efficient storage, really easy to see when you're missing something, and I can grab the tray and go to where I'm working, rather than either grabbing a bunch of loose sockets from the Hansen-style trays (which seem like a waste of space) or needing to grab two or three individual rails (since GM loves using metric and SAE all over the place).
 

widerberg

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Feb 15, 2007
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Down South
I have the Craftsman thing for my standard sockets and I love it. I split the thing up, so that I have parts in three drawers: 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2". It leaves plenty of room in the drawers for doubles/triples of sizes, plus accessories, breaker bars, etc. For my deep sockets I have a set of Hansen trays that sit in my top box. It works for me and everything's nice and organized. I like that the Craftsman tray thing doesn't cram all the sockets together, because it's easier to see what's there and to get at them--but, I have a pretty big roller box (a Kobalt). With a smaller box, I could see how the space isn't used very efficiently.
 

Altec

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Location
SoCo, MD
Here is the Socket Organization thread for some inspiration.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47412&highlight=socket


Hansen trays are awesome, but don't really go with the cost effective storage method the OP is looking for. :lol2:

Those were homemeade by a member here. Here is a bit of the writeup.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Tool-Box-Socket-Organizating/

-Jeff

Those are a great option for someone who would like to store their sockets in a shallow drawer. To bad there isn't a real guide there. Idea seems simple enough though.:thumbup:
 

Matt M PA

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Oct 21, 2008
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SE PA
I use the metal rails. One for 1/2" metric, one for 1/2 SAE, etc, etc, etc. That way, I can carry the entire rail to the job if needed. I also only have as many clips as I have sockets on the rail so I can quickly see if one is missing.

HF has cheap rails that are pretty good. I even made one each up for torx, etc...and just cut the rail off if it's too long.
 

Rossco

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Great White North
How much does it cost?

No idea in USD .. I bought direct. Pounds sterling & VAT.

For that foam (For KRL1056 750mm x 680mm x31mm) Would be around $100 US Dollars I imagine .. 18mm height would be around $50 - $60 US .. The 18mm limits larger deep sockets to a Vertical arrangment.
 

lauver

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MTE,

3 days and 30 posts later. So, whatcha gonna do with your sockets? A photo or two would do.
 
Last edited:

Gregg33

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Jan 13, 2011
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Port Colborne, ON, Canada
Plastic rails are good, they are more durable than what you'd think and they stand up on there own even with deep 1/2" sockets the rails don't need to be fastened to your box and if you are working on something ythat requires a variety of sockets you can take a rail(s) to your car, bench etc. Mine are a mix Kobalt, Craftsman and Princess Auto offshore (probably like Harbor Freight). All sell different lengths, hence the different brands, however once sockets are on them, they look identical. Ernst also makes plastic rails, but they are more obscure in these parts.

There is no cheap solution. Figure on spending $3-$8+/ rail depending on the length and if you need extra clips that's extra. Take comfort in the fact they'll make your life easier for many years and if you no longer need them you can sell them for 1/3 or 1/2 of what you paid without a problem.
 
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