I know I can cut sheet metal with shears, but is there a special type of shear (or cutting technique) that doesn't compromise the 'flatness' of the sheet? In other words, I'd like the pieces to be perfectly flat -- not stretched or distorted -- when I'm done with them. They're maybe 10" by 10", but with some intricate shapes.
Cutting shapes from sheet metal
- Thread starter Jack Olsen
- Start date
Buckgnarly
Well-known member
Not the most common of things in garages, but plasma? I've done some pretty tricky stuff with my Hobart 625 and it goes through sheet metal like butter!
Beverly shears. $pendy for one project. But, if you want to cut sheet 3/16 or less more often, then they are great to have. HF has a knock off. I have heard people tinker, adjust, and customize them to work OK (like alot of HF stuff, they arent great out of the box). But, there is nothing like an original Beverly. They can be found used and are worth every cent as the company is still in business and can replace or sharpen blade for you.
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brianpgriset
Well-known member
I have the HF beverly copy and it will still turn a little bit of an edge on sheet I cut. I'd imagine a real beverly would be better, but I have to agree plasma is the least likley to compromise flatness.
ghnl
Well-known member
Metal cutting blade in a jig saw. If needed, you can sandwich the sheet metal between some thin plywood for more support.
bradweingartner
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2009
- Messages
- 149
I'm a big fan of the plasma personally but a good edge finish requires a nice steady hand.
Have you tried a nibbler? In my experience they seem to distort the metal the least. On BOTH sides of the cut, you end up with flat sheet. All of the distortion is focused on the strip it removes down the middle.
Have you tried a nibbler? In my experience they seem to distort the metal the least. On BOTH sides of the cut, you end up with flat sheet. All of the distortion is focused on the strip it removes down the middle.
You could use a nibbler like these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=nibbler
It will hold both sides when you cut and take an 1/8 in strip out of the middle.
A shear like this one does the same but takes out 1/4 in.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=nibbler
It will hold both sides when you cut and take an 1/8 in strip out of the middle.
A shear like this one does the same but takes out 1/4 in.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
PCO6
Well-known member
As mentioned by Mike and Brian above, a Beverly shear would be good. I have used one and there's no question that they are better than the throatless shears available from places like Harbor Freight, Eastwood, Princess Auto, etc. I have that type and with a little adjustment, shiming, tightening, etc. it works just fine for my hobbyist's needs.
http://www.eastwood.com/throatless-shear.html
http://www.eastwood.com/throatless-shear.html
garboui
Well-known member
laser!!!
hunter1151
Well-known member
How thin are we talking about.........I use a band saw, you just have to find a blade with enough teeth so that the sheet metal doesn't hook the blade and ruin it. The other thing I will mention is, there are job shops out there with lasers. You can sometimes get things cut out by them for not a lot of money. Modern lasers cut extremely fast and the set up is minimal. If you take them a drawing they will usually help you. You will be amazed at the results.
Any type of shear will distort the cut edge to some extent. The better quality ones less so. A plasma will leave a rough edge with a heat effected zone. Water Jet cutting is the best way and should not be hard to find in the LA area. A scroll saw with a fine blade will also do a good job.
blue dog
Banned
Jack, if you can draw them in solidworks, my friends have a cnc plasma table in El Segundo and will cut them out for you. What gauge of sheet are we talking.
Heavy Metal Doctor
Well-known member
Same thing I was thinking - plasma slices through it so fast that there's realy no heat distortion. Touch up the edge with a DA for a clean look.
MAYOR28
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I could draw them in solidworks for you.....then send them to bluedog....just a thought.
PM me with dimensions if you want.
PM me with dimensions if you want.
Steevo
Well-known member
I have had good luck with a cheap air nibbler for sheet metal up to about 18ga.
It removes a small strip one "nibble" at a time, so you are basically cutting a slot around your piece. It takes some practice to not end up with "saw blade edges" on curved cuts though.
It removes a small strip one "nibble" at a time, so you are basically cutting a slot around your piece. It takes some practice to not end up with "saw blade edges" on curved cuts though.
mjozefow
Well-known member
Are you using your snips properly? I have the same issue but watching A_P use aviation snips made me realize my technique was wrong. His come out flat.
Also, depending on the metal, a scroll saw may do the job.
Also, depending on the metal, a scroll saw may do the job.
NASTYZEN
Well-known member
Much of my cutting is done on a band saw. Some times I cheat and use my cnc mill.
e3pres
Well-known member
I've had good luck with shearing dies on my cheapo HF bead roller. YMMV.
lomonte
Well-known member
Cut a lot of the sheet for the pickup out on my bandsaw. Good results.
tncatadjuster
Well-known member
I have this tool with two different heads, one is a shear and one a nibbler.
OP
Thanks, guys. The project is still at the thinking-about-how-I'd-do-it stage. And it actually looks like it would only involve straight cuts. I do own a nibbler. I might do some test cuts with that.
A plate shear might be all I need.
A plate shear might be all I need.
ZTFab
Well-known member
Jack. I have a shear in my garage. 6ft x 10ga with a front operated, powered back gauge.
You're more than welcome to come by and use it if you need.
OP
You guys are very generous. And normally, I'd take advantage of that. But this is pretty simple. I'm just going to make three 3D letters, sort of like this:
As it happens, they're all straight-line cuts (no curves). It should be do-able with my regular shears (maybe with a little trial and error for the best technique). But if I try it and get some distortion, I'll look into maybe getting an inexpensive plate shear. Or I'll bust out my second-hand nibbler. Or I'll hit one of you up for the favor. But I'm guessing I can do it in-house.
As it happens, they're all straight-line cuts (no curves). It should be do-able with my regular shears (maybe with a little trial and error for the best technique). But if I try it and get some distortion, I'll look into maybe getting an inexpensive plate shear. Or I'll bust out my second-hand nibbler. Or I'll hit one of you up for the favor. But I'm guessing I can do it in-house.
BD1
Well-known member
what about a 4 1/2' grinder and cutting wheel ???
brianpgriset
Well-known member
You need to find a buddy with a stomp shear!
oldgoaly
Well-known member
a whole bunch of small hvac shop have gone under in the last 10 yrs, you can find a stomp shear cheap, use it for a year turn around and sell it for what you bought it for. But if your getting gimpy like me a hydraulic shear is the way to go. I picked one up Wysong 52" 16ga for 1250$
SWT Racing
Well-known member
If you decide to use aviation snips, using a good offset snip will help quite a bit. Make sure you are using the correct snip for the direction of cut. Just because the cut is straight doesn't mean you should go right to the yellow snips.
Start at least 1/8" wide of your true cut line to minimize distortion, and make sure not to cut all the way to the tips of the snips, as it will distort even more.
A hammer and dolly can straighten things out. Even leaving 1/32" can allow a little room for filing the edge.
. . .or use ZF's shear and be done in under 5 minutes.
Start at least 1/8" wide of your true cut line to minimize distortion, and make sure not to cut all the way to the tips of the snips, as it will distort even more.
A hammer and dolly can straighten things out. Even leaving 1/32" can allow a little room for filing the edge.
. . .or use ZF's shear and be done in under 5 minutes.
ZTFab
Well-known member
No need for a stomp shear...
I've got this bad boy.
She's here and ready if you decide you need it Jack.
tinbender 66
Well-known member
Can you draw us a picture? It kinda depends on HOW intricate the shape is that you are trying to cut. I've been a tinbasher for 30 years and I'd have to see what you're trying to do in order to suggest a method. Nowadays most shops have a burn table (plasma) or a cnc router table (awesome for alum.). But if you got one of those you'd be broke and have no place to park the Porsche.
No fair! Those pics weren't there when I posted this. You could do that with snips (good quality ones like Midwest offsets available at Sears). When it's possible you need to cut in a direction that has your "scrap" piece going down from the cut. That leaves any small amount of burr on the backside of the piece and minimizes distortion.
No fair! Those pics weren't there when I posted this. You could do that with snips (good quality ones like Midwest offsets available at Sears). When it's possible you need to cut in a direction that has your "scrap" piece going down from the cut. That leaves any small amount of burr on the backside of the piece and minimizes distortion.
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NASTYZEN
Well-known member
I personally haven't had good performance out of the hand held nibblers. Always jammed or busted or something.Seems to be faster and more strait forward to just use a cut off wheel n get er done....
Unless technology has improved nibblers lately for what there worth.
Unless technology has improved nibblers lately for what there worth.
chris bsopke
Active member
I've got a good Bosch nibbler cuts real fast but I only ever use it for roughing out , leaves a nice edge like a saw blade. Then trim to my line with tin snips/ grinder with sanding pad or whatever , more often than not files as they give me the best control of metal removal and a good tight fit up of parts.
Cheers Chris C
Cheers Chris C
Use whatever you can get close to your cut line and finish on the line with a pair of hand snips. Dress any Distortion with a hammer...Thats your cheapest and most effective method
HF makes a nice little beverly shear for the money
HF makes a nice little beverly shear for the money
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
A stomp shear will only work for the outside configuration and not the inside cuts.
I use an electric Bosch cutter and it doesn't distort the metal on the cutting side but something like that would only get you close on your inside cuts.
If you're going to try to get by on the DIY cheap, it looks like a combo of ZT's stomp shear, cutting wheel, and jigsaw.
hunter1151
Well-known member
I personally haven't had good performance out of the hand held nibblers. Always jammed or busted or something.Seems to be faster and more strait forward to just use a cut off wheel n get er done....
Unless technology has improved nibblers lately for what there worth.
I totally agree with you on this........they are good for cutting material off of the end of a sheet but only if you don't care where it cuts it...........LOL I 've had better luck with a torch and a straight edge then those things. And yes I bought the expensive one.
danski0224
Well-known member
You guys are very generous. And normally, I'd take advantage of that. But this is pretty simple. I'm just going to make three 3D letters, sort of like this:
As it happens, they're all straight-line cuts (no curves). It should be do-able with my regular shears (maybe with a little trial and error for the best technique). But if I try it and get some distortion, I'll look into maybe getting an inexpensive plate shear. Or I'll bust out my second-hand nibbler. Or I'll hit one of you up for the favor. But I'm guessing I can do it in-house.
Portions of the outside of the letter may be cut with a jump/stomp/hydraulic shear. If you have access to one, that will give you the best straight line cut.
You have not indicated the thickness of material being cut.
Depending on the size of the letters, you could use offset snips for most of the cutting, from about 20 ga and thinner. If you have a Unishear, that will also work.
You will have a hard time using a nibbler and obtaining a straight line freehand. Same goes for using a plasma cutter. I have a Fein 14ga nibbler, and while it is a very nice tool, obtaining a freehand straight line cut is just about impossible for me.
The best low buck way to cut the inside part would be with a jigsaw and a fine metal blade. Drill some pilot holes. Clean up with a file.
I use a air nibbler on light weight stock. If I want a near perfect cut I clamp a guide to run the nibbler against, if i need to cut an arc I cut a template out of 1/4" plywood.. A plasma cutter would be nice but out of my price range for the little amount of work like this I do..