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Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT 1950s Craftsman Garage retro remodel

Workspaces sized between 265 and 485 squarefeet.

flybefree

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Even the tile is made in China? Surely we can band together and find some reasonably priced tile made in the U.S.A. (goes to computer in a huff to google made in the USA tile)
 
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flybefree

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Called shaw floors, they have three lines made in america Atlas, Brushed Stone, and Luna...if you go to their website they can direct you to a retailer...NOT the cheapest stuff they have of course.

Whew...now I can eat lunch.
 
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Red Leader

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Actually I found some porcelain tile at the re-store. However, color choice was limited and it was still $.99/sq ft. It was, however, made in USA, which was great. I'm just not sure I want to go with the texture marble/mottled gray and white to try and get the checkerboard theme.

Looks like $.99/sq ft is as cheap as I'll ever find it there (their standard, non-neg price).

I did spy a ton of Armstrong VCT boxes, but I think I want to stay away from VCT. Again, RD keeps looking better and better:)
 

Wingnut65

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Linoleum?? I have a hard time spelling "VCT". Its really Vinyl Composite Tile. Armstrong is one of the bigger manufacturer's and usually available at the big box stores. But I can't tell where they are made.
 

Coyote Red

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Linoleum?? I have a hard time spelling "VCT". Its really Vinyl Composite Tile. Armstrong is one of the bigger manufacturer's and usually available at the big box stores. But I can't tell where they are made.

Funny you should mention that, because I believe VCT at it's root is linoleum cut into tiles. Pretty sure Armstrong is a big manufacturer.

I was on their website a couple weeks ago, and they have some commercial/industrial stuff that is interesting to think about for not just floors, but wallcoverings too.
 
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Red Leader

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I've been having a hard time with the flooring. Here are what I see as the pros and cons of each:

Epoxy: EDIT - Starting to consider Epoxy again! If I can get away with the checker pattern, this would be SUPER sweet!

VCT: Looks nice when first laid, cheap. Super slippery when wet, long term cosmetic and durability issues?

Tile: Superb durability, looks great, decent cost. Lot of work to lay down, prepping concrete floor, made in China tiles, limited colors of USA tiles.

RaceDeck: Super nice looking, good color selection, no prep work, great durability and warranty, made in USA. Super expensive.

2x4 floating wood plank floor: Very nice old school look, easy to build over time, materials cheap to collect. Would take forever, would take maintenance, floor height issues at front of garage, not fireproof?

Honestly, I'm leaning most towards the RaceDeck, with the wood floor still floating in the back of my mind as something I'd like to try.

If I did the wood floor, I would lay down a vapor barrier, then 3/4" sleepers 12"-16" apart (8"-10" where car wheels would be) then either lay down straight 2x4s, or cut in half and stand on end. They would NOT be tongue-in-groove, so if I had to replace one, I could. Also, if one warped, it wouldn't warp the others as well. I would make them short enough that if there somehow was any warping, it would be severely minimized (although I don't really forsee that being an issue).

I also like the idea of the wood floor since any scrapes, dents, or oil stains would just add character. It would require maintenance, but it would also very easily be reconditioned. I know how to work with wood and it is well within my capabilities and skill set. It would take a while, but I would do it right. I would also look forward to the challenge and enjoy the vintage look. It would be more of the wood plank flooring found it barns. Instead of the planks resting on 2x6 or the like, it would rest on sleepers that would sit on concrete. The concrete unevenness would be a pain to work around, but again, I could do it.

Those are my flooring thoughts.
 
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omr

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i know it's a reach but some recycled rock maple from an old bowling center would be sweet, that stuff is hard as nails ..

when i was younger i worked as a pinsetter mechanic and they replaced the lanes with a synthetic surface , when they removed the old rock maple lanes the underside of each board was absolutely pristine and untreated..

the approaches were nice too , not sure if the approach was rock maple or not but the boards were wider than the individual boards the lanes were made out of ..
 
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Red Leader

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i know it's a reach but some recycled rock maple from an old bowling center would be sweet, that stuff is hard as nails ..

when i was younger i worked as a pinsetter mechanic and they replaced the lanes with a synthetic surface , when they removed the old rock maple lanes the underside of each board was absolutely pristine and untreated..

the approaches were nice too , not sure if the approach was rock maple or not but the boards were wider than the individual boards the lanes were made out of ..

You know what OMR, this is a fantastic idea, and I did look into the old bowling alley material when I was first thinking about workbenches. The only problem is that out here (Denver) the envirofreaks (sorry:D) love anything 'repurposed' and a small 2x2 designer table with this stuff as the top will sell for $1000, so the material is not cheap. Don't get me wrong, I believe in absolutely being a good steward with the environment and reusing/recycling whenever possible. There is, however, a little bit of hysteria about it in this region that inflates the used material prices, where old rusty barn roofing actually sells for more than the brand new stuff.

I don't think I'll ever quite understand it:confused::headscrat.
But it's all good:)
 
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Bobcat719

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Red Leader,
You have inspired me enough to actually go out and take pictures of my garage! I have already started some projects in my mind, and with a little motivation from the GJ, I think I will be well on my way. Anyhow, I just started my first thread entitled "Functionally Chaotic 2 Car" not sure where that name came from :) this is my starting point with the garage, the forum, and my projects. So thanks again, to you, Wingnut, and Jack for the amazing push that you provided for me to just do it!

BK
 

kbuhagiar

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RaceDeck: Super nice looking, good color selection, no prep work, great durability and warranty, made in USA. Super expensive.

Red Leader,

Costco sells a Racedeck alternative, called MotoFloor. It is made by the Racedeck folks for sale only at Costco. It is substantially cheaper. Racedeck says that it is lower quality version of Racedeck, but the differences are insignificant for home use.

http://www.costco.com/Browse/Produc...ang=en-US&Sp=C&ec=BC-EC22577-Cat21277&topnav=

I've had my Motofloor for around 5 years now, and I love it.

KennysGarage1.jpg


Check it out - it may be just what you need!
 

omr

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You know what OMR, this is a fantastic idea, and I did look into the old bowling alley material when I was first thinking about workbenches. The only problem is that out here (Denver) the envirofreaks (sorry:D) love anything 'repurposed' and a small 2x2 designer table with this stuff as the top will sell for $1000, so the material is not cheap. Don't get me wrong, I believe in absolutely being a good steward with the environment and reusing/recycling whenever possible. There is, however, a little bit of hysteria about it in this region that inflates the used material prices, where old rusty barn roofing actually sells for more than the brand new stuff.

I don't think I'll ever quite understand it:confused::headscrat.
But it's all good:)
wow! yeah that makes no sense at all ..lol
 
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Red Leader

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Red Leader,
You have inspired me enough to actually go out and take pictures of my garage! I have already started some projects in my mind, and with a little motivation from the GJ, I think I will be well on my way. Anyhow, I just started my first thread entitled "Functionally Chaotic 2 Car" not sure where that name came from :) this is my starting point with the garage, the forum, and my projects. So thanks again, to you, Wingnut, and Jack for the amazing push that you provided for me to just do it!

BK

If you need any free inspiration, you can always look at what I started with haha:

1003520jg.jpg

By daveamy at 2010-07-23
1004118i.jpg


Ahh the good ol' days. Brings to mind the amazing joys of having 1 light bulb and 1 outlet. Whats more amazing than that fact is the fact that someone was 'OK' with that for 17 years:)
 
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Red Leader

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Red Leader,

Costco sells a Racedeck alternative, called MotoFloor. It is made by the Racedeck folks for sale only at Costco. It is substantially cheaper. Racedeck says that it is lower quality version of Racedeck, but the differences are insignificant for home use.

http://www.costco.com/Browse/Produc...ang=en-US&Sp=C&ec=BC-EC22577-Cat21277&topnav=

I've had my Motofloor for around 5 years now, and I love it.

KennysGarage1.jpg


Check it out - it may be just what you need!

AWESOME looking floor! I checked your link. Looks like the motofloor is close to the cost of the RaceDeck for what GJ members can get it for. Which, of course, still makes me think this type of floor is awesome.

As much as I love tile, VCT, epoxy, RD and all the rest, a part of me really just wants to do a wood floor because some folks said it wouldn't work lol. But the good news is that we're all still friends at the end of the day:thumbup::lol:
 

flybefree

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RL...remember, you are an a AmeriCAN not an AmeriCAN'T...build it in wood and they will come (whispers the good idea fairy)! Useless data point: My Grandpa's shop had a wood floor for over 50 years and it did not burn down or warp uncontollably or even explode into a cloud of mold.
 

flybefree

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Wingnut it did not explode into a cloud of mold...yet. If it does I will, of course, post the video. Now that wood floor is now as crooked as a politician and quite a mess...but hey, it's really old.
 

BUGTHUG

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The thing with tile is, if your floor is uneven or large cracks, it will cause the tiles to crack. You would have to pour a layer of thin set to make sure its some what level.
You could just paint or stain the cocrete, with stain all you need is a large spray bottle, then roll on a clear protective coating.
 
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csp

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The only problem is that out here (Denver) the envirofreaks (sorry:D) love anything 'repurposed' and a small 2x2 designer table with this stuff as the top will sell for $1000, so the material is not cheap.

Aint that the truth! I've been looking for bowling alley pieces to use for countertops for over a year now. The cheapest I've found it, on the rare occasions I could find it, was $40/board foot.

VCT: Looks nice when first laid, cheap. Super slippery when wet, long term cosmetic and durability issues?

Durability is one of the benefits of VCT. Go look at what's in your local King Soopers. ;)

Which Re-Store are you shopping? The one near Santa Fe and Alameda?

Ever been through The Lumber Guy's place? Some good stuff there, but you gotta know what retail is on some things.
 
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Red Leader

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I'm starting to think that a hybrid floor might be the ticket....

On one part of the garage (the woodworking side), do up the floor in wood planking, then on the other side, do some sort of RaceDeck tile. The RaceDeck would be for parking the car on and changing oil, etc. I help offset the cost of the RD floor and the labor for the wood floor is cut in half. I get the old school look of wood and the retro look of the checker pattern in racedeck.

Or, maybe I'm just crazy:eyecrazy:

I do like the idea of the wood floor and then the RaceDeck 'bay' for the car, though. Now my only thought is do I put them at the same level? Just sit the RD tiles on the floor so they are an inch or so lower than the raised wood floor then just bevel the wood pieces around it? Could look cool but I don't want a tripping hazard either.

As far as a wood floor, what If I were to make my own wood 'tiles' per se?

Something that looked like this:

Brick-Wall-Tile.jpg


...but was made out of wood planks? The squares could be 2'x2', and they could hook in together and then be screwed together. The shorter lengths would minimize warping. If I did have to 'repair' a section of floor, I just remove a few screws and pull out the square. When I get the whole floor in, I can easily control the unevenness issues by shimming individual squares and test fitting them in easily. Any minute differences in level between squares can be sanded away with a floor sander.

Wow, I'm really talking myself into this one. All I'd have to do is take some careful measurements, create a template and go to town.

I don't think anyone has ever done a floor like this. What the heck am I thinking? I'm even thinking of an angled pattern between the RaceDeck and the wood.

This could be fun:)
 

ChristopherLutz

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Red Leader this is Blue Leader -

(couldn't resist the SW reference)

The house I grew up in was built in the mid 50's (California). It had a raised foundation and oak floors. Oak was "the thing" back then.

To be honest, I really like the idea of the two types of floors. What if you went with 1x6 oak and glued it down?

It would take the stain well, and even though not designed for flooring....would sort of fit the "garage" look. (in my opinion, anyway).

I'm sort of thinking $$, I think the 1x might be cheaper than flooring - but, I haven't priced...so, I really don't know.

You could still cut these into small pieces and make a pattern in certain sections if you chose to do so.

I suspect the depth would be about right for the RD/match.
 
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Red Leader

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I usually have to let these ideas sink in for at least a week to see if I’m actually crazy or not – it’s kind of like the litmus test for ideas in the garage. If they really truly are horrible, usually after a week’s time the idea will fade away. If it’s not horrible and I’m not crazy, the idea usually gets stronger (but actually I still might be crazy).

That being said, I kept thinking about the floor all night, so I have a good feeling the dual systems will work. I figure I’ll need about 130-150sq/ft of the Race Deck type flooring. The slab I have in the garage is divided into 4 parts, each about 9’x11’. About 1.5 of those will be covered in the plastic flooring, with the rest being wood. If I use the slightly cheaper flooring (GarageDeck) and get it at $2/sq ft, that is about $300 for that, instead of around $1200 to do the entire floor in RD. That leaves me with a fake budget of $900 lol. Or, if I can do the rest of the floor under $900, I’ll be ahead of the game. I’m imagining it will be a lot less.

Right now, my mind has moved to the debate between making the pre-made wood flooring squares, or just laying down sleepers and doing the floor piece by piece without the modular design. Without it, it would probably be easier, so I wouldn’t have to keep a pattern, and I also wouldn’t have to face the challenge of spacing the wood squares so that they line up with the Race Deck flooring exactly. I’m not expecting the tolerances to be so good as to line up perfectly, but even still, the wood square pattern would make it a lot harder for sure, at least for making it look good.

So, here are the questions I have that I am still trying to get answers to:

1. I WILL be laying down a vapor barrier on top of the slab. Do I need to glue the barrier down to the slab or just lay it down?
2. I’ll be using ½” sleepers under the flooring to give the flooring something to attach to, keep the moisture moving, and have some play room to adjust the level of the floor. Should I glue these down to the vapor barrier or just keep them floating on top of it?
3. A single 2x4 is 3.5” wide. I will saw it into either 2 or 3 pieces about 1.7” or 1.2” thick each, and this will be the flooring. Should I attach them to the sleepers with liquid nails then traditional nails, or NOT use liquid nails, and just use screws? Either or?
4. What do I make the sleepers out of? OSB swells if it gets wet and I don’t like OSB anyway. Plywood? Pressure treated? Any other material I can use? If I found a sweet deal on ½” to ¾” trex somewhere I’d use that.
5. Should I work on the floor, or the ceiling first? Any advantage of doing one before the other?

This is where I’m at right now. I’m excited about the wood idea because I can get 2x4s super duper cheap at HD when they cull their lumber. The pieces I am making the floor out of will be so short that any bending/twisting/warping will be negligible. Plus, if I top sand, it will get level anyway. Even if things warp, a bunch of slightly warped 2’ lengths across an entire floor mean the floor is still relatively level and I just have to sand down the ends or the center bows of each warped piece. If a 12’ long piece warps it is a big deal. At least that is my logic.

Any feedback you guys have about this idea or any of the questions I have I’d love to hear. Please feel free to tell me I’m crazy. Who knows…it might just motivate me!
 
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Red Leader

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Red Leader this is Blue Leader -

(couldn't resist the SW reference)

The house I grew up in was built in the mid 50's (California). It had a raised foundation and oak floors. Oak was "the thing" back then.

To be honest, I really like the idea of the two types of floors. What if you went with 1x6 oak and glued it down?

It would take the stain well, and even though not designed for flooring....would sort of fit the "garage" look. (in my opinion, anyway).

I'm sort of thinking $$, I think the 1x might be cheaper than flooring - but, I haven't priced...so, I really don't know.

You could still cut these into small pieces and make a pattern in certain sections if you chose to do so.

I suspect the depth would be about right for the RD/match.

I am definitely going with solid wood flooring, at least 1" thick. I might have to work with pine, as the hardwood is major $$. But out here in colorado, a lot of stuff is made with pine. Man if I could find a way to do more beetle kill pine on the floor, that would be crazy!

I would not go with manufactured flooring, way too expensive and probably not durable enough for a garage setting. Like the trim, I will just make the flooring out of basic wood since I have the capabilities. I am also not doing tongue-in-groove, since it is a ton of extra work and would make replacing a piece a total b**ch. If you can think of Nimrod's incredible garage, that is what I'm thinking...simple, basic, wood plank flooring, just in shorter, more narrow lengths. Think barn:D

Actually, I would TOTALLY go with 1x4 or 1x6 oak barn siding/flooring to use, but again...going back to my enviro-freak comment, that stuff is usually more expensive that brand new wood since it is 'distressed' and 'repurposed'. Those are buzz words 'round these parts.
 

widerberg

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If you can think of Nimrod's incredible garage, that is what I'm thinking...simple, basic, wood plank flooring, just in shorter, more narrow lengths. Think barn:D

Ha ha!! Great minds :bounce: I hadn't even read this yet when I thought to link in a pic of Nimrod's garage.
 

Bob Heine

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Have you thought of making your own end-grain wood floor? You cut scrap wood into 1-inch thick blocks, glue them together and make your own tiles -- trimmed to ReceDeck dimension. The tiles go down on the plastic-sheet-covered concrete. Basically a floating wood floor. To make the pieces modular, groove two sides and tongue the other two (check out a peel-and-stick parquet tile for the tongue and groove pattern). Time consuming but a pretty cheap alternative. That was the floor of choice for machine shops and factories back in the day. And you thought you were crazy.....

If you don't want to make tiles, here's a "cobbled" wood floor:
draft_lens16436181module140310121photo_1292231349floor7.jpg


And free instructions on how it's done, including the sawdust grout:
http://www.squidoo.com/cobbledwoodfloors
 
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Red Leader

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Okay, so here is a picture of what I was thinking:





The dimensions aren't perfect because I would need to know exactly how much of the race deck type flooring I would need around the vehicle, but it gives a general sense of what I want it to look like:)


I do also like the woodblock idea, but because my concrete is so uneven, it would be really hard to just lay the blocks right on the concrete, vs creating a floating system with 1/2" sleepers.
 
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Red Leader

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Here is another question: If I am using straight-grain pine, how thick would you guys use? This won't necessarily be used for a car, but I'd like to if I needed to, and it will be used under heavy woodworking machinery.

I was thinking at least 1" (1.2" if I cut a 2x4 into 3 pieces). it would more like 1.70" thick if I were to cut the 2x4 in half.

If I use enough sleepers maybe with a 6"-8" gap in-between them, does the 1.2" thickness sound good to you guys?

-Dave
 

Wingnut65

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Now I'm beginning to get the picture. I like the end grain idea and the possibility of making your own tiles. But Nimrod's floor is classic! Vapor barrier is a good idea. What goes next, I'd wait for a flooring expert to jump in.
 
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Red Leader

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I've had some additional thoughts.

If I can find some type of 'waterproofer', I could use 1/2" plywood as the sleepers under the wood flooring and make sure they are coated in the stuff. I can find plywood cheap (and still have a lot of it to use) and would love to 'repurpose' that if possible:)

My only dilemma with this would be attaching the wood - I'd have to get darn close to the right length of screw so that I don't poke out the bottom of the flooring and destroy the vapor barrier. Or, if I used my '2x2 square pattern' idea, I can use longer screws to get a good bite, then just bend/break off the protruding screw tips from the underside before the floor is laid. A little more work, but probably worth it.

Another idea I had was to use glue to keep the boards on - which would eliminate the screw head problem and also look a little cleaner from the top. However, I don't know how well glue holds, especially if wood wants to pull away a bit. I just don't know how long that would last.

And yet another option would be to build the floor upside down (and install screws from the underside up) and eliminate the screw head issue and the length issue, but then if I have to pull out a board for something, I'm having to pull up a whole section.

Man my head is spinning now. Now I know why nobody has done a floor like this:wtf::lol_hitti

But I'll do it, oh I'll do it. Mark my words!:thumbup:
 

mdbeck1

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I've had some additional thoughts.

If I can find some type of 'waterproofer', I could use 1/2" plywood as the sleepers under the wood flooring and make sure they are coated in the stuff. I can find plywood cheap (and still have a lot of it to use) and would love to 'repurpose' that if possible:)

My only dilemma with this would be attaching the wood - I'd have to get darn close to the right length of screw so that I don't poke out the bottom of the flooring and destroy the vapor barrier. Or, if I used my '2x2 square pattern' idea, I can use longer screws to get a good bite, then just bend/break off the protruding screw tips from the underside before the floor is laid. A little more work, but probably worth it.

Another idea I had was to use glue to keep the boards on - which would eliminate the screw head problem and also look a little cleaner from the top. However, I don't know how well glue holds, especially if wood wants to pull away a bit. I just don't know how long that would last.

And yet another option would be to build the floor upside down (and install screws from the underside up) and eliminate the screw head issue and the length issue, but then if I have to pull out a board for something, I'm having to pull up a whole section.

Man my head is spinning now. Now I know why nobody has done a floor like this:wtf::lol_hitti

But I'll do it, oh I'll do it. Mark my words!:thumbup:

Last year we put down one of those "pre-engineered" floors in the house (the house is a concrete slab floor). SWMBFAO wanted it and had researched it. Apparently in my part of the country you don't really need the vapor barrier. So we just glued it to the floor. It seemed to be working just fine.
 

couchmechanic

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Hey Red Leader, you have some great ideas brewing. Here is what I know about small block wood floors made from wood standing on end. One of the classrooms I was in years ago was a converted wood-shop. I want to say the wood was Teak but not 100% sure. A water pipe had leaked slowly over the summer saturating a part of the floor and the blocks literally upheaved. At that time nearly fifty years old a descision was made to remove it all and replace it with a used wood floor from a basketball court. The floor looked great when it was refinished and the color was lighter so it brightened up the room. It did scratch easier and was not as durable but I am pretty poitive it is still there today. The old Van Nuys assembly plant in CA were they used to make the Camaros & Firebirds was also blocks on end. Very durable and Dark colored. Pine is a soft wood and very poris and succeptable to cracking when you drive a screw through it. You can predrill.
You have a great idea about making tiles and then setting it.
As far as barrior paper are you talking foil or tar based?
Is any of your equipment going to be bolted to the foor? Good luck, hope this helped!
 

rickairmedic

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RL I have spent the evening reading your thread and dont honestly know how I missed it :D. You have done a great job ok FANTASTIC job with an empty shell . I will have to admit I also have an affinity for old machinery myself. I recently picked up an old craftsman Lathe I have been looking for for a long time ( at a price I was willing to pay ). I also happen to know where theres an old pristine Craftsman 109 model table saw and scroll saw if you are interested in them I can put you in touch with the owner . Heres my LAthe by the way and thanks for the tip on the paint color :D.


Rick
 

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omr

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am i wrong in thinking that having the grain side/cut side exposed and screwing through the grain side/cut side goes against all conventional thinking ?

and unless i read wrong you are planning on having the plywood under floor just floating ? wouldnt that be way more likely to warp than lets say a floor like nimrods ?
 
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Red Leader

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Ladies and Gentleman,

While I don't have a specific garage update for you (that will take place later today!), if you are still willing, allow me to take you on a tour.

Every year, my work (non-profit charity working with at-risk kids) hosts a motorcycle ride to raise awareness and funds for the program. This year's ride was yesterday. We ride from just south of the metro Denver area down to Larkspur, CO, about an hour away. The ride takes us through old country 2-lane roads, seemingly to remind us all where the heart of this great country really resides.

Starting out at 6am after being up for 3 weeks with a newborn is probably not anyone's idea of a wonderful Saturday morning, but I suited up still, anticipating the day's events.

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By daveamy at 2011-08-21

We met up at the motorcycle dealership and for about 2 1/2 hours had riders from all over gather. We gathered up, went over the route, said a prayer and were on our way.

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By daveamy at 2011-08-21

About 65 motorcycles roared down US Highway 85 down to the little town of Sedalia, the first real marker on our journey. Moving over to Route 105, we continued on, passing my numerous farms and ranches, pulling my attention to the old abandoned cars along the way.

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By daveamy at 2011-08-21
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By daveamy at 2011-08-21
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By daveamy at 2011-08-21



We finally arrived at our destination and had lunch, a silent auction, a presentation, and wrapped up around 1pm.

Typically, in the year's past, we took the most enjoyable way there, and the quickest way back. This year, however, was different. Interstate 25, no doubt the most direct line back up to my neck of the woods, wasn't beckoning. Instead, it was the longer, slower...yet twistier, calmer path that got me there. I decided to head out. In a pack of 65 riders getting there, I was now riding for myself. There is a sweet tranquility in being alone, perhaps some of you may relate. On my on time, at my own speed, I saw the familiar fences and brush come back. Now, I had time to take it all in. Wow. I might have never known what I had missed on the way here. Yes, the ride down was filled with the perfect backdrop - blue skies and crisp mountains in the background. But I had tunnel vision. What was before me now was the sun-weathered scenery of middle America. The sun felt warm and and the wind felt cool, a perfect combination. This time, I was able to take a deep breath and under the low rumble of my bike underneath me, take in all in.

I have no pictures because I never even once thought about my camera.

I had also decided to go back the same way because on the way there when we hit Sedalia, I noticed a field off to the side of the road that was filled with old abandoned cars. Reading up on this forum and the H.A.M.B. re-kindled a somewhat cooled-off admiration of old cars (even just from a distance). I decided that if nothing else, I would try to take some pictures.

I arrived at the town, and despite the thrill of the 'hunt', I was a little sad the country ride was over. Nonetheless, I headed up the main street, turning left just before the train tracks, looking for the next adventure. A dirt road passed over the tracks a ways down the road, and something told me 'take that', so I did. Eventually, I found what I was looking for. I pulled into the parking lot of an occupied building and rode up to the end of the lot, where the dirt took over. Out before me was the field of old cars. While there were no 'NO Trespassing' or 'Stay Out' signs, there was a little yellow chain across the entrance to the field, which seemed more inclined to tell visitors, 'Please Don't Go here' with an old country town's respect.

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By daveamy at 2011-08-21
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By daveamy at 2011-08-21

'Meet John'

I didn't want to give up yet. The field stretched what looked like beyond the buildings perimeter, so I rode just a little further down the way and happened upon a little dirt road with a house or two. The field connected down the road, so I took it. Riding up slowly, I saw a man loading some brush into a dumpster. I parked the bike, got off and went to go meet him. "Howdy there" being the first thing I said to him. His instant response was to stick out his work glove-covered hand and offer a shake. I told him I was wondering if I might be able to get some pictures of some of these great old cars.

His name is John. It turns out John owns probably 1/3-1/2 of the land in the town of Sedalia proper. He had a softness in his voice like the smooth weathered wood railing standing outside for the last 50 years. His eyes only reminded me of one thing - honesty. After loading the last bit of brush into his '48 Chevy pickup, he said sure it was no problem to go look at the cars and take pictures. He said that school classes will come by and use the cars as inspiration for water colors. After talking for a bit, I asked him if he'd ever sell any. He said he has about 20-something old trucks and about half the cars on the lot - the rest are his friends'. He joked that when he reached 30 he might sell some. He isn't really interested in selling because he isn't really interested in money. This type of man is the salt of the earth. Just as down to earth and could be. When I was ready to leave, I thanked him and hoped that I had the pleasure of meeting him again. Akin to that pure country-like hospitality, he welcomed me back and told me when he's usually there.

Enjoy the pictures:)

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By daveamy at 2011-08-21
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By daveamy at 2011-08-21
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By daveamy at 2011-08-21

So on my way home, I realized that I needed this trip. It breathed fresh air in my lungs, and revitalized my soul. Everyone has something that helps create this for them. For me, it's on a motorcycle going through the country. Something inside me just really meshed with that slower, simpler, country life and I realized that one day that is where I want to be. Maybe not now, maybe not in a while, maybe not for years, but who knows. On the way back home, I kept count of time on my watch to see how long it'd take me to get to work from out there:)
 
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