chrommagman
Well-known member
great photo's Red Leader!
Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT 1950s Craftsman Garage retro remodel
- Thread starter Red Leader
- Start date
Workspaces sized between 265 and 485 squarefeet.
tinbender 66
Well-known member
Good story. Great pics. Your're artistic and articulate
.
On that moving out of town thing, we moved from Seattle to about 60 miles north. Our oldest had finished kinergarten and Seattle was doing the "bussing" thing grades 1-12. We didn't want that and packed up and headed out. Working construction (sheet metal) I've had some hellacious commutes but I've never regretted the move. Never.
.On that moving out of town thing, we moved from Seattle to about 60 miles north. Our oldest had finished kinergarten and Seattle was doing the "bussing" thing grades 1-12. We didn't want that and packed up and headed out. Working construction (sheet metal) I've had some hellacious commutes but I've never regretted the move. Never.
Wingnut65
Well-known member
Great pix, Dave. Sounds like the ride helped more than just the kids.
Love that vintage steel. Hope somebody can save them!
Love that vintage steel. Hope somebody can save them!
flybefree
Well-known member
Great write up...looks like fun.
Shaun
Shaun
OP
Red Leader
Well-known member
Alright, a little update:
Got more progress done on the garage door:
By daveamy at 2011-08-21
By daveamy at 2011-08-21
I'll try to finish up the hardware tomorrow - I'm almost done with it.
Wingnut I am going to copy you and try to get some insulation panels and paint those instead of having to tape everything off and paint the board. I'll have to cut the board, but in the long run I think it will make for less work. ANYTHING is less work than having to tape all that off
And just a note to everyone - when was the last time you serviced your garage door?
From doing all this work on it, I've realized that neglected garage doors need a TON of maintenance and there is a lot to check. Beside getting paint on the outside (done), there are the tracks to clean and re-grease, wheels in each end fitting to remove and re-grease the shafts, clean the wheels, and repack bearings. All the nuts need occasional tightening...and then you find some that don't seem to tighten anymore. That's not a stripped screw...that is the fiberboard disintegrating, which necessitates removing the stop bolt from the front and building up the fiberboard and strengthening with some type of glue or epoxy. Then there is the fiberboard separating from itself, which means more glue. Then there is the sagging issue, which will hopefully be fixed by some tension and turnbuckles. None of this includes the maintenance needed to the opener system.
All that to say, garage doors take a **** ton of maintenance. I feel like this door was severely neglected before we got to the house. Here is what is next:
1. Get done painting (which includes pulling all the wheels, cleaning the tracks, repacking the bearings and shafts with grease)
2. Glue up the separating fiberboard (its the bottom center piece).
3. Get up some insulation panels
4. Get the turnbuckle system up
5. Pull the bolts that are pulling through the disintegrating fiberboard and repair them.
6. Repaint repaired areas on outside of door and caulk all the seams once the door sag issue is straightened out
This may give the door several more years of life. Eventually it will have to be replaced. However, since I don't have a $1000 budget for a new garage door, I'll do what I can to keep it alive.
Check your garage doors, guys!
-Dave
Got more progress done on the garage door:
By daveamy at 2011-08-21
By daveamy at 2011-08-21
I'll try to finish up the hardware tomorrow - I'm almost done with it.
Wingnut I am going to copy you and try to get some insulation panels and paint those instead of having to tape everything off and paint the board. I'll have to cut the board, but in the long run I think it will make for less work. ANYTHING is less work than having to tape all that off
And just a note to everyone - when was the last time you serviced your garage door?
From doing all this work on it, I've realized that neglected garage doors need a TON of maintenance and there is a lot to check. Beside getting paint on the outside (done), there are the tracks to clean and re-grease, wheels in each end fitting to remove and re-grease the shafts, clean the wheels, and repack bearings. All the nuts need occasional tightening...and then you find some that don't seem to tighten anymore. That's not a stripped screw...that is the fiberboard disintegrating, which necessitates removing the stop bolt from the front and building up the fiberboard and strengthening with some type of glue or epoxy. Then there is the fiberboard separating from itself, which means more glue. Then there is the sagging issue, which will hopefully be fixed by some tension and turnbuckles. None of this includes the maintenance needed to the opener system.
All that to say, garage doors take a **** ton of maintenance. I feel like this door was severely neglected before we got to the house. Here is what is next:
1. Get done painting (which includes pulling all the wheels, cleaning the tracks, repacking the bearings and shafts with grease)
2. Glue up the separating fiberboard (its the bottom center piece).
3. Get up some insulation panels
4. Get the turnbuckle system up
5. Pull the bolts that are pulling through the disintegrating fiberboard and repair them.
6. Repaint repaired areas on outside of door and caulk all the seams once the door sag issue is straightened out
This may give the door several more years of life. Eventually it will have to be replaced. However, since I don't have a $1000 budget for a new garage door, I'll do what I can to keep it alive.
Check your garage doors, guys!
-Dave
Last edited:
Nice job RL
Just to give a little more safety advice on garage door, especialy the ones that have the springs on the top side of the doors, make sure you have a CABLE that goes thru the inside of the spring. I had one to break in the middle of the nite and it went flying over my 56 Chevy show car, and embedded itself into the sheetrock about 20 feet away in the front of the garage.
Needless to say it sounded like a gun shot, and a crash. Scarred the hell out of me, (most of it) at 3am.
But now I'm sure most garages use the torsion spring, which is kindda scarry when fist setting the tension on it.
OK, back to our schedule program.
Just to give a little more safety advice on garage door, especialy the ones that have the springs on the top side of the doors, make sure you have a CABLE that goes thru the inside of the spring. I had one to break in the middle of the nite and it went flying over my 56 Chevy show car, and embedded itself into the sheetrock about 20 feet away in the front of the garage.
Needless to say it sounded like a gun shot, and a crash. Scarred the hell out of me, (most of it) at 3am.
But now I'm sure most garages use the torsion spring, which is kindda scarry when fist setting the tension on it.
OK, back to our schedule program.
Wingnut65
Well-known member
Great note on garage door maintenance. We ignore and abuse them until they don't go up, usually with the car on the wrong side of the door...
Progress looks great on the door. The need for taping really depends on the steadiness of your hand for cutting in edges. If using a brush, you may not need to tape. Spraying is a yes!
Day after Thanksgiving 2 years ago, we had a spring break. We got it fixed on Saturday.(Holiday weekend repair rate!
) The guy did a service on the whole door and talked us into going with nylon rollers for the door. It really does make the door operate more smoothly and much quieter. I'm glad we changed them. The ones we got were self contained and no grease is needed. Just a friend's thought to help blow your budget. 
A thought on repairing the wood. I had the same type door on our house in Miami years ago. It had wood rot in the corners and around hinges. I was like you with extra time and no extra funds. So, where possible, I used Minwax Wood Hardener to solidify the rot and I replaced the damaged wood the best that I could. (Bad wood at bolts was replaced.) This may be an option to help on your damaged fiberboard. There are other brands available as well.
Progress looks great on the door. The need for taping really depends on the steadiness of your hand for cutting in edges. If using a brush, you may not need to tape. Spraying is a yes!
Day after Thanksgiving 2 years ago, we had a spring break. We got it fixed on Saturday.(Holiday weekend repair rate!
) The guy did a service on the whole door and talked us into going with nylon rollers for the door. It really does make the door operate more smoothly and much quieter. I'm glad we changed them. The ones we got were self contained and no grease is needed. Just a friend's thought to help blow your budget.
A thought on repairing the wood. I had the same type door on our house in Miami years ago. It had wood rot in the corners and around hinges. I was like you with extra time and no extra funds. So, where possible, I used Minwax Wood Hardener to solidify the rot and I replaced the damaged wood the best that I could. (Bad wood at bolts was replaced.) This may be an option to help on your damaged fiberboard. There are other brands available as well.
BenDaPirate
Member
Amazing garage!! Love it!!
I agree with Wingnut. I used to install garage doors for a living and I highly suggest the nylon rollers. Will totally quiet down the door, and they're less maintenance that normal rollers.
I agree with Wingnut. I used to install garage doors for a living and I highly suggest the nylon rollers. Will totally quiet down the door, and they're less maintenance that normal rollers.
OP
Red Leader
Well-known member
Okay, so I had the day off from work, so I thought I'd do a little bit of work out there as I had time.
This is not the most glamorous update, but the work must continue.
So before I got into any more work with the door, I wanted to get that bottom panel repaired. Here shows the damage:
Outside:
By daveamy at 2011-08-22
Inside:
By daveamy at 2011-08-22
To get the glue to flow a little more, I diluted it:
By daveamy at 2011-08-22
At first I thought I was going to have to completely remove the bottom panel. However, I was able to get enough room through the space when the garage door hinges and got some clamps through there:
By daveamy at 2011-08-22
So that will sit for at least a few hours.
Next up on the menus is some electrical lighting under the shelves (finally got wire nuts!!!). After that is done, I will resume with the garage door, finishing the rest of the hinges and starting on the turnbuckle tension system.
Stay tuned! More to come! Today!
This is not the most glamorous update, but the work must continue.
So before I got into any more work with the door, I wanted to get that bottom panel repaired. Here shows the damage:
Outside:
By daveamy at 2011-08-22
Inside:
By daveamy at 2011-08-22
To get the glue to flow a little more, I diluted it:
By daveamy at 2011-08-22
At first I thought I was going to have to completely remove the bottom panel. However, I was able to get enough room through the space when the garage door hinges and got some clamps through there:
By daveamy at 2011-08-22
So that will sit for at least a few hours.
Next up on the menus is some electrical lighting under the shelves (finally got wire nuts!!!). After that is done, I will resume with the garage door, finishing the rest of the hinges and starting on the turnbuckle tension system.
Stay tuned! More to come! Today!
THANK YOU! Thank you for the pictures, as I have driven Sante Fe most every day for the past two years wanting to do the same, just pull off and snap some photos of the old metal....Always so busy, driving to work, driving home to see the family, alwyas something else better to do, no time to stop...and now you have done it for me. I will think of these shots tomorrow as I drive by it again and have lunch at the Sedalia Bar & Grille....Thanks again.
Red Leader - I second Wingnut's recommendation of the nylon rollers for the garage door. I had a repair done on my door opener and the guy talked me into the rollers. I could barely hear it open once he did. He told me I would have to find another way to know if my son was getting home after curfew (he is 12 so no issue there yet ). I was shocked at how easy it is to install them, so you could easily tackle it yourself.
). I was shocked at how easy it is to install them, so you could easily tackle it yourself.flybefree
Well-known member
Day off work + duct tape + 17 c clamps = progress!
OP
Red Leader
Well-known member
1. Get done painting (which includes pulling all the wheels, cleaning the tracks, repacking the bearings and shafts with grease)
2. Glue up the separating fiberboard (its the bottom center piece). DONE
3. Get up some insulation panels
4. Get the turnbuckle system up
5. Pull the bolts that are pulling through the disintegrating fiberboard and repair them.
6. Repaint repaired areas on outside of door and caulk all the seams once the door sag issue is straightened out
It worked! I pulled the clamps off and everything was straight!
By daveamy at 2011-08-22
Also, FINALLY got some electrical work done:
By daveamy at 2011-08-22
This thing was a pain to wire up because I hadn't originally planned on it, but I realized halfway through that I needed a split, and I figured why not throw a box and outlet up there too...all that to say the wires were really short.
Then, finally got the main light under the bottom shelf wired in and whala!
By daveamy at 2011-08-22
By daveamy at 2011-08-22
It only has one light in it right now and the garage is full of natural light, but you get the idea. I know that looks like a tiny light for the amount of space down there, but I am going to build 2 pull-down drawers on each side of it that will house 'the most commonly used garage items', like tape measure, small level, etc. On each far side will go a puck light and then the bottom will be complete. I just need to wire in 2 more fluorescent lights on the far right shelving and that circuit will be done!
Man...seeing that color in those photos makes me realize how much I love it!
Another update to come!
2. Glue up the separating fiberboard (its the bottom center piece). DONE
3. Get up some insulation panels
4. Get the turnbuckle system up
5. Pull the bolts that are pulling through the disintegrating fiberboard and repair them.
6. Repaint repaired areas on outside of door and caulk all the seams once the door sag issue is straightened out
It worked! I pulled the clamps off and everything was straight!
By daveamy at 2011-08-22
Also, FINALLY got some electrical work done:
By daveamy at 2011-08-22
This thing was a pain to wire up because I hadn't originally planned on it, but I realized halfway through that I needed a split, and I figured why not throw a box and outlet up there too...all that to say the wires were really short.
Then, finally got the main light under the bottom shelf wired in and whala!
By daveamy at 2011-08-22
By daveamy at 2011-08-22
It only has one light in it right now and the garage is full of natural light, but you get the idea. I know that looks like a tiny light for the amount of space down there, but I am going to build 2 pull-down drawers on each side of it that will house 'the most commonly used garage items', like tape measure, small level, etc. On each far side will go a puck light and then the bottom will be complete. I just need to wire in 2 more fluorescent lights on the far right shelving and that circuit will be done!
Man...seeing that color in those photos makes me realize how much I love it!
Another update to come!
Last edited:
OP
Red Leader
Well-known member
Great note on garage door maintenance. We ignore and abuse them until they don't go up, usually with the car on the wrong side of the door...
Progress looks great on the door. The need for taping really depends on the steadiness of your hand for cutting in edges. If using a brush, you may not need to tape. Spraying is a yes!
Day after Thanksgiving 2 years ago, we had a spring break. We got it fixed on Saturday.(Holiday weekend repair rate!
A thought on repairing the wood. I had the same type door on our house in Miami years ago. It had wood rot in the corners and around hinges. I was like you with extra time and no extra funds. So, where possible, I used Minwax Wood Hardener to solidify the rot and I replaced the damaged wood the best that I could. (Bad wood at bolts was replaced.) This may be an option to help on your damaged fiberboard. There are other brands available as well.
Red Leader - I second Wingnut's recommendation of the nylon rollers for the garage door. I had a repair done on my door opener and the guy talked me into the rollers. I could barely hear it open once he did. He told me I would have to find another way to know if my son was getting home after curfew (he is 12 so no issue there yet
Guys, thanks for the lead on the nylon rollers...I'll have to check that out! I'll have to add that to the 'garage door' list. I'm all for things smoothing out the door.
OP
Red Leader
Well-known member
I think mine has the torsion spring, but I am not schooled on garage springs
All that to say I agree...must be wise when working around springs that are powerful enough to sound like gunshots when they break!
OP
Red Leader
Well-known member
And another suggestion for the rollers! Man, I gotta get on these things!
Thank you sir
OP
Red Leader
Well-known member
I'm glad they inspire you. I am fascinated by old cars, especially ones just sitting out in a field. I want to know their story. If you are ever out that way and want to check them out in person, John the owner is just about as nice as could be.
Oh, and hey, another local!!!! We really need to get a Colorado garage thread going!
rickairmedic
Well-known member
RL I think when ya get the garage done you need to go back and rescue that little MGA hardtop as a new garage project . I have not seen many hardtops and think they look really good .
Rick
. I have not seen many hardtops and think they look really good .Rick
Bobcat719
Member
RL, Nice pics man! I too love old metal like that, the pics are inspiring to say the least. I have also had a run in with gun shots in the garage late at night, those springs are crazy loud when they break. I have the springs on the sides and the wire to go through them just for that reason. Anyway, nice updates, and I am doing the nylon roller thing this weekend, man this place is addictive!
BK
BK
OP
Red Leader
Well-known member
Wingnut65
Well-known member
Bobcat,
We can help with that addiction. We have a 12 step program...
Step 1 = Toolbox
Step 2 = Cabinets
Step 3 = Workbench
Step 4 = Flooring...
Truse me, we can make it 12 steps!
OP
Red Leader
Well-known member
Bobcat,
We can help with that addiction. We have a 12 step program...
Step 1 = Toolbox
Step 2 = Cabinets
Step 3 = Workbench
Step 4 = Flooring...
Truse me, we can make it 12 steps!
Man, if that is the recovery program, I am in serious need of help. Especially considering I haven't even attempted steps 1, 3, or 4...
tinbender 66
Well-known member
Hey Mr. Leader. Slight hijack here. I got this yesterday from my 84 year old neighbor. He had it in a shipping container on his property. Free. There's also an old table saw and a joiner in there that I wasn't able to see. I'm gonna go look today. I posted a thread on it over in tool discussion and got some good advice. It's here:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114453
I suppose now I have to join vintage machinery.org!
Lord help me
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114453
I suppose now I have to join vintage machinery.org!
Lord help me
Last edited:
OP
Red Leader
Well-known member
EDIT: Not a 10 incher, but for a second there...
In any case, nice score! Those are GREAT bandsaws (especially when they're free!)
____________________________________________________________________
Wow, that actually looks like a 10"! Those are pretty rare! A fellow OWWMer over here in the Denver area has been looking for one of those.
If it is a 10", just know that you have a buyer if you ever decide you don't need/want it!
Nice score!
And YES, GO BACK! Get those other tools and post them up here!
-Dave
In any case, nice score! Those are GREAT bandsaws (especially when they're free!)
____________________________________________________________________
Wow, that actually looks like a 10"! Those are pretty rare! A fellow OWWMer over here in the Denver area has been looking for one of those.
If it is a 10", just know that you have a buyer if you ever decide you don't need/want it!
Nice score!
And YES, GO BACK! Get those other tools and post them up here!
-Dave
Last edited:
tinbender 66
Well-known member
Okay, I went back and got the table saw/joiner today. I mocked up all the pieces for this pic. I think everything is there including the stand and the "made for delta" Marathon 1 hp motor. It has the shaft on both ends to run both machines. I plugged it in and it ran nice and smooth and quiet. It's amazing to me how much effort they put into the design on these old things. BTW, I believe the bandsaw is a 14".
Hijack over. I'll post the rest of the pics on my thread.
Hijack over. I'll post the rest of the pics on my thread.
OP
Red Leader
Well-known member
WOW, tinbender. That is a fabulous score. Someone a long time ago made a big investment in those tools. I am not a Delta guy, but 1 post over at the OWWM forums outta net you a lot of information about those tools, and a big giant 'you ****'
I would say the band saw and jointer are FOR SURE keepers as they are heavy, industrial quality. I don't know how big that table saw is, but it might prove to be a little small for some projects. I'd say use it and find out first, though If you find it lacking, might as well just move up to a Unisaw since now you've got the Delta thing going
One word of strong warning - you've gotten a dangerous taste of 'the slope'. Basically, you started at the top and someone kicked you in the pants and you fell about 100ft. At this point its better not to try and fight it. Just give in, and soon you'll realize how great your shop with look with a vintage Delta drill press, Delta wood lathe, Delta radial saw, Delta shaper, Delta planer, Delta scroll saw and all the little goodies that come with them
I would say the band saw and jointer are FOR SURE keepers as they are heavy, industrial quality. I don't know how big that table saw is, but it might prove to be a little small for some projects. I'd say use it and find out first, though
If you find it lacking, might as well just move up to a Unisaw since now you've got the Delta thing goingOne word of strong warning - you've gotten a dangerous taste of 'the slope'. Basically, you started at the top and someone kicked you in the pants and you fell about 100ft. At this point its better not to try and fight it. Just give in, and soon you'll realize how great your shop with look with a vintage Delta drill press, Delta wood lathe, Delta radial saw, Delta shaper, Delta planer, Delta scroll saw and all the little goodies that come with them
mdbeck1
Well-known member
Okay, I went back and got the table saw/joiner today. I mocked up all the pieces for this pic. I think everything is there including the stand and the "made for delta" Marathon 1 hp motor. It has the shaft on both ends to run both machines. I plugged it in and it ran nice and smooth and quiet. It's amazing to me how much effort they put into the design on these old things. BTW, I believe the bandsaw is a 14".
Hijack over. I'll post the rest of the pics on my thread.
...
I think that I have your table saw's brother/cousin. Let me guess the blade is stationary, the top raises and lowers, and the top tilts.
...I don't have the jointer though....
Good find.
tinbender 66
Well-known member
WOW, tinbender. That is a fabulous score. Someone a long time ago made a big investment in those tools. I am not a Delta guy, but 1 post over at the OWWM forums outta net you a lot of information about those tools, and a big giant 'you ****'
I would say the band saw and jointer are FOR SURE keepers as they are heavy, industrial quality. I don't know how big that table saw is, but it might prove to be a little small for some projects. I'd say use it and find out first, though
One word of strong warning - you've gotten a dangerous taste of 'the slope'. Basically, you started at the top and someone kicked you in the pants and you fell about 100ft. At this point its better not to try and fight it. Just give in, and soon you'll realize how great your shop with look with a vintage Delta drill press, Delta wood lathe, Delta radial saw, Delta shaper, Delta planer, Delta scroll saw and all the little goodies that come with them
I know, I know, no point in trying to arrest my fall now
. AND it's mostly your fault
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that he also gave me an unopened roll of R-19.Thanks md, I haven't had a chance to twiddle the knobs yet and see how everything works. I do know that the top tilts. I about killed myself getting them into and out of the truck! I only had to haul them about 400' but that was the easy part.
tinbender 66
Well-known member
Oh man! I just saw a pic at vintage machinery of a guys Unisaw that is the oldest known one. AWESOME! Help me I'm falling!!!
Wingnut65
Well-known member
Man, if that is the recovery program, I am in serious need of help. Especially considering I haven't even attempted steps 1, 3, or 4...
I didn't make it to the first meeting night, but I think the steps are interchangeable.
Wingnut65
Well-known member
Resistance is Futile!
Red Leader has hooked another one into his world! Either he lures unsuspecting visitors with his cool shop with awesome curve cabinets and wonderful ideas, or its the bait of the vintage machines and the old vise and that "Verde Green" Rustoleum that I can't find locally. But one way or another, you, me, we, are falling into his world. (Except our baby days are in the past)
Give Up!
Bobcat719
Member
No kidding! I agree, I have found myself putting together color schemes, and looking at floor tile colors, and epoxy sprinkle stuff, man! This thing really takes over! I have the plan of attempting to do the nylon rollers on my garage door this weekend and documenting the process, so we shall see. Still have other pictures and more progress to write about. Speaking of the vintage machines, I already want a bench grinder (never knew I was even needing one), want to sell my table saw to get a vintage one, and now need a drill press (have to think of a reason why) these tools are way too cool! Awesome thread! Finally figured out that I could subscribe to these things, so did that as well!
BK
BK
OP
Red Leader
Well-known member
Compete 'Top 10' tool list moved below
Last edited:
Wingnut65
Well-known member
Awesome ! ! !
Now, I've got to go and actually order the 'Verde Green' for my vice and drill press. (I know this one isn't that color, but your vice looks sooooo cooool!)
Can't wait for the rest. Very creative!
7. 'Before' and 'After' is so good...you won't even need a diet shake.
The other 5 to come soon...
Now, I've got to go and actually order the 'Verde Green' for my vice and drill press. (I know this one isn't that color, but your vice looks sooooo cooool!)
Can't wait for the rest. Very creative!
tinbender 66
Well-known member
Yeah, that belt/disc sander is AWESOME! And thanks for posting that pic of the Unisaw. Now I pretty much HAVE TO have one. Cool post
. Cool post
OP
Red Leader
Well-known member
EDIT: sorry the pictures are so soft and fuzzy. Will promptly clean camera lens!
1. Get done painting (which includes pulling all the wheels, cleaning the tracks, repacking the bearings and shafts with grease) DONE
2. Glue up the separating fiberboard (its the bottom center piece). DONE
3. Get up some insulation panels
4. Get the turnbuckle system up
5. Pull the bolts that are pulling through the disintegrating fiberboard and repair them.
6. Repaint repaired areas on outside of door and caulk all the seams once the door sag issue is straightened out
By daveamy at 2011-08-25
By daveamy at 2011-08-25
Finally got all the hinges painted and put back up. Now, it will be on to insulation. I'll try and get some poly iso insulation, cut to size, paint, and install. Then I'll be ready for the turnbuckle system.
Oh, and just for fun, this is what happens when you have a newborn for the past month:
By daveamy at 2011-08-25
At first I thought these pictures might be a little embarrassing (okay, they still are haha), but I thought I had better document the garage in some of its more messy states so that it'll increase the shock value when I get it completely finished
And our son turned 1 month old today...whoohoo!!!
All for now
1. Get done painting (which includes pulling all the wheels, cleaning the tracks, repacking the bearings and shafts with grease) DONE
2. Glue up the separating fiberboard (its the bottom center piece). DONE
3. Get up some insulation panels
4. Get the turnbuckle system up
5. Pull the bolts that are pulling through the disintegrating fiberboard and repair them.
6. Repaint repaired areas on outside of door and caulk all the seams once the door sag issue is straightened out
By daveamy at 2011-08-25
By daveamy at 2011-08-25
Finally got all the hinges painted and put back up. Now, it will be on to insulation. I'll try and get some poly iso insulation, cut to size, paint, and install. Then I'll be ready for the turnbuckle system.
Oh, and just for fun, this is what happens when you have a newborn for the past month:
By daveamy at 2011-08-25
At first I thought these pictures might be a little embarrassing (okay, they still are haha), but I thought I had better document the garage in some of its more messy states so that it'll increase the shock value when I get it completely finished
And our son turned 1 month old today...whoohoo!!!
All for now
So when is this philosophy going to carry over to the motorcycle? Not that I have anything against Kawasaki (I'm a long-time fan of the H1 triples), but I could see you restoring and riding an old Triumph, BSA, or Norton someday and really enjoying it. Perhaps reliability was the deciding factor for the new steel?
Wingnut65
Well-known member
Good going, shopnut. Now you're really trying to blow his budget!
But, ya didn't mention an Indian...
OP
Red Leader
Well-known member
The Updated '12-Step Program to Convince You Why Old Tools Are Better' (at least according to the 1950s Craftsman Garage)
12. Just look at these.
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
11. The logos are cooler
VS
Seriously??
10. You use old tools = sometimes, you just have balls of steel.
9. Sometimes 'so friggin' heavy' means 'there's just that much more to love'.
VS
8. 'Before' and 'After' is so good...you won't even need a diet shake.
7.
1963 Delta Unisaw. $125.
Overseas-made table saw. $1000.
**** IT
6. When the motor on your new tool burns out...
You'll probably have to talk to customer service.
When the motor on your old tool burns out...
You replace it with the spare motor the other 'old tool guy' gives you for free and the time that you would have spent on the phone having to talk to customer service is instead spent having a beer.
5. You can buy 10 old tools for the price of 1.
And, well...
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
...why not?
4. The purchase of old tools necessitates the purchase of more tools to fix/repair/maintain the old tools which need fixing. Sometimes, you may even have to fix the tools that you initially purchased to fix old tools with which, of course, means the purchase of more tools.
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
3. You can weld old tools. You can even scrape warped cast iron flat.
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
Please, please don't try to weld your plastic tool. I'm begging you.
2.Many times, old tools are found, rusted from neglect, on the side of the curb or in the scrap metal pile. They are abandoned, thrown-away orphans.
To be a rescuer of old tools is to self-actualize into the kinder, more compassionate, more sensitive you.
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
Explain to wife like this.
And the number one reason why old tools are better...
Your average, modern, imported, sheetmetal lunchbox planer cannot stop Chuck Norris...
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
A Whitney S-970 can stop Chuck Norris.
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
Enjoy
)12. Just look at these.
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
11. The logos are cooler
VS
Seriously??
10. You use old tools = sometimes, you just have balls of steel.
9. Sometimes 'so friggin' heavy' means 'there's just that much more to love'.
VS
8. 'Before' and 'After' is so good...you won't even need a diet shake.
7.
1963 Delta Unisaw. $125.
Overseas-made table saw. $1000.
**** IT
6. When the motor on your new tool burns out...
You'll probably have to talk to customer service.
When the motor on your old tool burns out...
You replace it with the spare motor the other 'old tool guy' gives you for free and the time that you would have spent on the phone having to talk to customer service is instead spent having a beer.
5. You can buy 10 old tools for the price of 1.
And, well...
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
...why not?
4. The purchase of old tools necessitates the purchase of more tools to fix/repair/maintain the old tools which need fixing. Sometimes, you may even have to fix the tools that you initially purchased to fix old tools with which, of course, means the purchase of more tools.
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
3. You can weld old tools. You can even scrape warped cast iron flat.
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
Please, please don't try to weld your plastic tool. I'm begging you.
2.Many times, old tools are found, rusted from neglect, on the side of the curb or in the scrap metal pile. They are abandoned, thrown-away orphans.
To be a rescuer of old tools is to self-actualize into the kinder, more compassionate, more sensitive you.
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
Explain to wife like this.
And the number one reason why old tools are better...
Your average, modern, imported, sheetmetal lunchbox planer cannot stop Chuck Norris...
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
A Whitney S-970 can stop Chuck Norris.
By daveamy at 2011-08-26
Enjoy
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