Locktite Polyeurathane Caulk

[rockyballbuster]

Anyone ever use this below 100 percent solids epoxy? Also, any clue on the drytime before painting. The label doesn't list it.

 

[pd59]

Anyone ever use this below 100 percent solids epoxy? Also, any clue on the drytime before painting. The label doesn't list it.

I would not recommend using urethane caulking under an epoxy floor. There is a good chance it won't bond properly and fail over time. You would want to find an epoxy based crack and joint filler to do the job.

To answer your other question, urethane caulk typically takes 24-48 hours to set, depending on temperature and relative humidity.

 

[rockyballbuster]

Thanks pd59, the Pittsburgh paint rep recommended Sonoguard SL1 Polyeurathane Sealer. I used it, but it was self-leveling, and didn't cover the small gap between the stem wall and the slab, but ran all over and made a mess. I cleaned it up with Xylene, and started over using Locktite Polyeurathane (NON-self leveling, ha ha), thinking if the Sonoguard polyeurtathane was compatible with my product, the Locktite should be. I am putting down Amerlock sealer followed up by PSX 700 silicon based epoxy.

 

[pd59]

Thanks pd59, the Pittsburgh paint rep recommended Sonoguard SL1 Polyeurathane Sealer. I used it, but it was self-leveling, and didn't cover the small gap between the stem wall and the slab, but ran all over and made a mess. I cleaned it up with Xylene, and started over using Locktite Polyeurathane (NON-self leveling, ha ha), thinking if the Sonoguard polyeurtathane was compatible with my product, the Locktite should be. I am putting down Amerlock sealer followed up by PSX 700 silicon based epoxy.

I've been installing seamless flooring in a commercial and industrial setting including epoxies, urethane mortars, and methyl methacrylates for over 6 years, and I am a certified installer for BASF(who owns Sonneborne), Poly Spec, Neogard, and Dur-a-Flex, and I have never once used urethane caulking as a joint filler under any of these systems before, nor have I been advised to by any representative for the above manufacturers. I know there are others here that claim to have used them with success under their garage floors, but I just have a hard time recommending someone else to do so because I have never seen it work personally, and i've laid a lot of flooring. I would really recommend you look into a trowelable, epoxy based joint and crack filler instead.

Having said that, I have also done a fair amount of caulking. Urethane caulks are pretty much one in the same, but Sonneborne also makes a non self-leveling caulking. It is called Sonoguard NP-1. If you were insistant to follow the advice of the PPG rep, and wanted to stick with the same brand, that would be another option. I hope I have helped, and good luck with your installation!

 

[thegarageguy]

We've used poly urea joint filler under epoxies and polyaspartics for years without any problems.

 

[swamperjmb]

Np1 is good stuff.... I use it on a daily basis. Its good for masonry/concrete. Just make sure you use dawn dish soap and water to tool it or you will have a mess.

 

[rockyballbuster]

Here's an update. I had already put the caulk down when I posted this thread, and now wish that I had posted first and NOT put it down at all. The Sonoguard SL-1 came up with the Amerlock Sealer. (interestingly, the Locktite Sealer didn't). That is, when brushing into the corner, the clear sealer broke it down and spread the grey color of the Sonoguard caulk a few inches to each side of the caulk line. At this point, I was NOT happy with the ppg rep., and was scrambling (1 hr. pot life on the Amerlock). So, I called the PPG product support engineering (another thing I should have done PRIOR TO putting the caulk down). They confirmed that while it shouldn't be a problem, that is I don't have to remove the caulk, it will eventually crack at the caulk line. The good news is this corner cracking can be caulked over when it does happen. Finally, I should note that PPG product support was very responsive and helpful.

Lessons learned (so far):

1. Don't trust the "paint store rep"
2. Consult the manufacturer
3. Listen to experience

 

[Edger]

3 very good pieces of advice.

 

[rockyballbuster]

One more piece of advice. When painting/epoxying a floor, don't vent by leaving the door open just enough.... for the cat to get in.

 

[pd59]

We've used poly urea joint filler under epoxies and polyaspartics for years without any problems.

Ureas and urethanes are not the same thing.