Joining 3/4" plywood end-on-end

[freddyaudiophile]

Hi folks:

I am putting together the lumber order for my future workbenches and cabinets and was curious as to how others would connect two 8' foot sheets of 3/4" G1S plywood together to form a workbench top that is approx. 16' long. x 28" deep.

I have a Kreg pocket hole jig and was planning to use that along with some good wood glue. The join will be directly on top of one of the workbench frame supports as well so I will screw the two sheets into the frame support.

Any other methods?

 

[freddyaudiophile]

Permanent...

 

[regguy1]

Maybe you could laminate 2 sheets of 1/2" plywood together, you'd have a super solid 1" top and could stagger the seams. If you don't want to use screws you could glue and clamp them together. Just a thought......

 

[theoldwizard1]

There's lap joint, slot, biscuit,

All of these, plus pocket screws, assume you have solid, not laminated wood. If I had to choose one, I would go slot&spline.

My "gut" says put a 1x4-6 underneath the seam. Glue and screw (countersunk) to each piece of plywood. Fill the crack and counter sinks with wood putty and sand.

 

[mgilde13]

The easiest would be to buy 3/4 plywood that's got the tongue and groove on it already. They sell it for flooring. Some wood glue in the joint and you're in business.

 

[freddyaudiophile]

Two pieces of 1/2" plywood sound like a good idea with staggered seams. I can use some PL Premium to hold them together along with screw from 3/4" long screws from underneath... sounds like a potential plan to me.

anybody have any thoughts on the 28" depth? i plan to put a peg board behind the middle portion (about 7' long or so) and then have two plywood cabinets (4' wide x 3' tall) on the ends.

 

[BlindViper]

Two pieces of 1/2" plywood sound like a good idea with staggered seams. I can use some PL Premium to hold them together along with screw from 3/4" long screws from underneath... sounds like a potential plan to me.

anybody have any thoughts on the 28" depth? i plan to put a peg board behind the middle portion (about 7' long or so) and then have two plywood cabinets (4' wide x 3' tall) on the ends.

Just use wood glue...the adhesive is very thick and it might not end up very flat.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Two pieces of 1/2" plywood sound like a good idea with staggered seams.

+1 ! You might even get away with 3/8"

Just use wood glue...the adhesive is very thick and it might not end up very flat.

+1 !!

Don't skimp on the glue ! Cover the whole surface. Use a foam roller to spread it.

 

[Sureshot]

I went 36" wide as you always seem to end up with something at the back on the bench. I used 5-2"x8" boards. I have seen them built like that then coverd with thin plywood for cheap replacement or metal. Depends on what will be happening on them.

 

[regguy1]

I built this bench 32 years ago, it has a wood laminated top under the metal. I used 2 sheets of 3/4"
(1 1/2" total thickness) flakeboard, the top is 30" deep x 8' long, the top is soild and has held up to lots of heavy use. The bench is 1/2" plywood and 6 upright 2 x 4's for the legs. Everything is dadoed and glued together so it's all interlocked and very strong

 

[R6 Racer]

Instead of using 2 thicknesses of 3/4" to end up with 1&1/2" you could always use 3 thicknesses of 1/2" & still end up with your desired 1&1/2" thickness.
+1 on the PL Premium between everything too!
With the 1/2" you can stager the joints making the whole top sturdier.
And you would only need to buy 2 pieces of G1S the other 4 pieces could be the cheaper stuff.

Why wouldn't you go 24" or 32" deep for your bench top? That way you would use full sheets with no leftovers. I figure you must have a reason.
Whatever you do, we want pics!

All using 1/2" ply x 3 thicknesses & all 16' long
1) 24" top depth = 3 sheets (1 being G1S)
2) 32" " " = 4 " (2 " " )



Steve

Joining
Top pic is with 3/4"
Bottom pic is with 1/2"

 

[freddyaudiophile]

Nice bench you have there regguy1. Question -- how did you make the metal top? Good use of peg board on the wall as well in your shop... (I am seriously thinking about doing that in my shop when it is done in a few weeks...)

 

[freddyaudiophile]

My new 22' w x 28' d second garage is mostly for storage (snowblower, lawn tractor, mower, winter tires and wheels, kids outdoor toys (for all seasons), etc. Since it does have a storage loft, some of the stuff will go up there...

However, I do dabble in woodworking, so I had it wired with a dedicated 100A service and a whack of 120V and 240V outlets. I have quite a good assortment of woodworking tools now but want to get a few more...

 

[StevenB]

You could use dowels pins to align the wood up, if you go with pocket holes. So the seems well stay align.

 

[freddyaudiophile]

If I did the 1.5" thick top, any ideas as to how I could trim out or enclose the edges of the work surface?

 

[shoot summ]

For an end to end **** joint I would use biscuits or a spline to keep the surface consistent. As others have stated I would prefer laminating some thinner sheets together overlapping the joint. You don't need to roll the adhesive, just regular wood glue, zig-zag the pattern of glue about 5-6" between "streams", then screw the top down.

 

[BlindViper]

If I did the 1.5" thick top, any ideas as to how I could trim out or enclose the edges of the work surface?

I would get some nice wood (cherry, oak , maple) rip it to the 1.5". Then either glue/screw/plug it to the edge or biscuit it to the edge. Then use a 3/8" round over and ease the top and bottom edge. Then stain and finish with what ever you want.

 

[Ryan87LX]

If you are placing the seam on top of a substantial support, I would glue the ends together, glue both sheets to the support, and screw both sheets into the support. It won't go anywhere.

 

[carap]

I personally hate plywood for a workbench top. It tends to splinter over time. I don't know how many time I have got a splinter under my fingernail. Talk about pain. It is okay as a sub surface. I just recently purchased a 24" X 96" X 1 1/2" thick laminated maple top from Sears. I am going to cut it in half and make tops for two carts. Maple top is the best surface for a workbench in my opinion.

 

[RivennHewn]

Plywood joint connectors, of course!

 

[freddyaudiophile]

Understood... I have a small 5' bench in my current garage with a 3/4" select fir plywood top... You are right -- I've gotten the odd splinter jammed in under my fingernail... blood stains on the bench to prove it.

My other idea was to get 2x6x16 #1 lumber (so that it would run the full length of the 16' bench) and lay it flat, clamping and screwing it to the bench supports that will be 16" on center. 5 full pieces laid flat would get me roughly 28" depth although I might put a piece of 1x6 against the wall to create kind of a kitchen back splash look. My only concern with that is the little grooves between each of the pieces, which will be full of sawdust, dirt, shards of metal, etc. Being a clean freak, a daily vacuuming of these crevices would be a religion onto itself.

Once upon a time (at least in this neck of the woods), one could buy plywood and/or OSB in sheets longer than 8'... Not anymore or so it seems... Nobody carries anything beyond 4'x8' material (aside from drywall)...

Another idea would be to do the 2x6x16 (as described above) and run each through the (yet-to-be-bought) table saw and remove about 3/8" off the side that will become the work surface (just enough to knock off the factory rounded edges). Then glue it, clamp it and screw from underneath... Any thoughts on that? I think this would mimic a butcher block top... I should glue the ends of each piece together as well, along with alternating the growth rings.

 

[carap]

Masonite hardboard makes a pretty good top. You could go with the 2X6 and cover with the hardboard.

 

[regguy1]

Nice bench you have there regguy1. Question -- how did you make the metal top? Good use of peg board on the wall as well in your shop... (I am seriously thinking about doing that in my shop when it is done in a few weeks...)

I had the metal top custom made at a metal fab. shop. I had the end pieces made seperatly and assembled them using pop rivets, I can send a close up photo if you're considering that route>

 

[regguy1]

Plywood joint connectors, of course!

Nice, need forstner bit for the holes though

 

[MoonRise]

More than one way to get what you want.

But just ****-jointing some plywood sheets isn't really all so good IMHO.

Make the benchtop out of the laminated thinner sheets of plywood to get your desired total final thickness and stagger the seams and you will have a nice big and pretty durable surface. Top with (replacable) hardboard pieces and wrap it all with solid wood edging/banding (sticking up higher than the plywood to end up flush with the hardboard 'working surface') and you are good to go.

And a +1 on thinking through your sizes and dimensions of both the sheet goods and the final benchtop to minimize (or at least be aware of) waste.

Your other mentioned choice/option of taking plain softwood 'structural' 2x lumber and then ripping and planing it to finished size (and getting rid of the factory rounded edges) and making up your own softwood plank top can work too. More work and more glue-ups needed (work in batches and make 'sub-assembly' strips/panels and then plane those to desired size after glue-up and then glue those sub-panels up into the larger final top size).

 

[theoldwizard1]

My other idea was to get 2x6x16 #1 lumber ...

Good luck finding #1 "2 by" and if you do it will cost $$$ !! If you take your time sorting through the pile, you will find enough "good" 2x6x16 (few, very small knots, 4 good edges)

Another idea would be to do the 2x6x16 (as described above) and run each through the (yet-to-be-bought) table saw and remove about 3/8" off the side that will become the work surface (just enough to knock off the factory rounded edges). Then glue it, clamp it and screw from underneath

Actually a good idea and pocket screws would hold it together until the glue dries. It will still take some work with a belt sander to make the surface perfectly level. Depending on what you are planning on using this surface for you may want to put a a couple of coats of clear poly varnish on the top. Thin the first coat 3 or 4 to 1. Second coat can be full strength.

I should glue the ends of each piece together as well, along with alternating the growth rings.

"Glue the ends together" ? I thought the reason you were going this way was to eliminate but joints ?

 

[freddyaudiophile]

Sorry. What I meant was to glue each piece together (as you noted; glue on the edges that meet the next board) and use pocket hole screws to bring the pieces tight together until the glue dries. My plan was to use 16 foot 2"x6" boards, each one pocket holed to the next. As I'm going, I'd clamp and screw each piece down to the workbench from below. My plan was to screw the first one down tight to the supports; glue the next one and align it, and drop in the pocket hole screws, and then screw it down to the supports; and keep going for the next 3 boards. 5 of them will make up roughly 28" in depth plus I'll add a 1"x4" or a 2"x4" as a trim piece along the back (and it will save me from sliding things back on the bench and smashing them into the electrical outlets above the bench surface). Once all is complete on the bench surface, I'd take my router with a flush cutting bit and zip around the edges or cap the edges in wood for a more finished look.

My new shop is mostly for multiple uses: storage of tractors, mowers, winter tires, snowblowers, etc.; woodworking projects; changing winter tires; etc.

And, in terms of prices, #1 2x6x16 runs about $9 per board here while #2's run about $7 or so.

 

[theoldwizard1]

My plan was to use 16 foot 2"x6" boards, each one pocket holed to the next. As I'm going, I'd clamp and screw each piece down to the workbench from below.

Screwing them down one at a time is not required.

My BIL built a table top this way. Worked great.

And, in terms of prices, #1 2x6x16 runs about $9 per board here while #2's run about $7 or so.

I have never seen #1 pine/fir in "2x" around where I live. Even "1x" soft wood is hard to find, especially if you want something wider than 8"

 

[freddyaudiophile]

Home Depot here is the only place that sells #1 quality "2x" SPF lumber... all the other hardware/lumber stores sell #2 grade. Here, they call #1 quality lumber "premium" and it is a select milling just for Home Depot. All other stores sell #2 quality SPF that is IMO suitable only for framing, studs, and the like. You can still get #2 quality at Home Depot mind you, with prices comparable to the other places in my area. The nearest Lowe's is about a 4 hour run away...

Since I would only need five 2x6x16 boards, I doubt going to a mill outside of town would do me any good, as they'd probably laugh me out of the parking lot with such a small quantity.

Another option is to run each board through a thickness planer to take off the rounded top portion... about 3/8" of an inch I think should do it. Going the thickness planer route should save me some finish time as well, as I would not need to sand it with a belt sander.... some time with an orbital or palm sander should do it. Of course, I won't know until I start!

 

[Steevo]

. . . . My only concern with that is the little grooves between each of the pieces, which will be full of sawdust, dirt, shards of metal, etc. Being a clean freak, a daily vacuuming of these crevices would be a religion onto itself.


Another idea would be to do the 2x6x16 (as described above) and run each through the (yet-to-be-bought) table saw and remove about 3/8" off the side that will become the work surface (just enough to knock off the factory rounded edges). Then glue it, clamp it and screw from underneath... Any thoughts on that? I think this would mimic a butcher block top... I should glue the ends of each piece together as well, along with alternating the growth rings.

This.

You will be much happier with the rounded corners gone and the pieces flush-butted and glued. You can then belt-sand it all to an even surface and seal it well with a penetrating urethane sealant.
And, by knocking 1/2" (2x1/4") off each piece, you end up with 5" widths, so six of them gives you a 30" deep bench.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Well, if you have access to unlimited wood working tools ..

From watching New Yankee Workshop ...

Run one face through a thickness planner. Make certain to do the same face of all boards before adjusting the thickness. Try to do as few passes as possible. Turn all of the boards over, reset the planner and start again.

Use a joiner on the edges, removing a small amount each pass until the shoulder is gone. Repeat on the opposite edge.

You'll still need some sanding after gluing.

These steps are important is you are dealing with hardwood. With softwood (SPF) they are not as important. A belt sander can easily knock down any high spot. Don't get too aggressive with the grit or pressure as you will quickly make dips. Final pass should be at 45° or use a random orbit sander.