Kirk.G,
I am starting to see what your aims are. You don't want to spend the money or time before winter hits to do a complete new foundation and slab. But you would like to make sure the structure is straight and stable and in place for future work and maybe some inside finishing to make it usable. If that is a good description of your aims, here is what I would do.
First you have to decide if you are going to go the legal route and get the local building department involved. You have to figure if neighbors will notice and notify them of what you are doing. You need to find out what the costs would be if you go that way. Also what the cost would be if you get caught doing it on the sly. If you mess with structure, especially if it is nonconforming in some way, you may lose any grandfathering and have to demolish it. In other words, get all the information you need to move forward with your eyes open.
If you just want to raise and straighten and get it ready for future foundation and slab work, you can probably do that from inside without much for neighbors to see.
As Milt mentioned, bolt a 2x beam on the inside of each wall up high and put your jacking columns under each one. Size the depth beam depending on how often it is supported and how often it is fastened.
Use your come-along to square up and brace the structure in all axis.
You might use the columns to take some of the load off to help with this but be careful as this might allow the structure to fold. You are working inside so be careful.
Once the structure is stable you can slowly jack it up. But since you are working from the top of the structure your jacking columns are not braced. You need some way to keep those columns from acting like a parallelogram and falling one way or another. Either x brace them to each other, or fasten them to the walls at the middle and bottom so they are temporarily part of the wall structure.
Next I would raise the structure so it is level and high enough to get a row of block and a 2x6 on the flat under it at the lowest point. Then I would raise it just enough more to get working room for the next steps.
Next I would spread some gravel under the low points so the gap was even all the way around.
Then I would dry lay or place a row of conc. block all the way around under the walls and place a 2x6 wolm. plate on top of it.
Now you can repair any damage to the foot of your existing wall.
Next, lower your structure down on this temporary base.
You are now good to go for a while until you are ready to do the bigger job of foundation and floor removal and replacement.
Leave the beams at the tops of walls and any of the x bracing that you can as you will need to lift again for access when you dig, demolish and pour your conc. footing and slab.
When you do the final work I recommend you use these conc. block for a course but install them permanently. They raise the wood structure off of grade and help prevent it rotting in the future.
When you do the final work, don't forget to get steel from the slab up through the block and use anchor bolts to tie the wood structure to the block and concrete.
Also use sill seal and caulk between the block and 2x6 sill and house wrap on your outside walls if you re-side.
This method will involve minimal costs, materials you will reuse anyway and get you closed in quicker for this winter.
Note that you may have to re-frame your door header since you are lifting the structure.
If you want even less work initially then omit the block course for now. Lift enough to level the ground and repair the bottom of the wall.
Either way you can go ahead and insulate the structure once it is square and braced.
Is this more in line with what you want to do? Any questions?
