Planning on 1/2" Black iron but the tank fitting is 3/8s and the reel is a 3/8. Be any issues with flow through out the system? Other than drilling and tapping the tank fitting can't think of way to make it larger other than the reducer/coupling. Realize the 1/2 lines will add to volume but if the 3/8s is going to bottle neck might as well stick with 3/8s pipe. Since that nozzle (effectively) going form 1/2 to 3/8 at the reel would raise the volume while decreasing the pressure.
Quick compressor plumbing question.
- Thread starter csmitty
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plumbstupid
Well-known member
I run 1/2" in shops around here all the time. Instead of running pipe all the way to the compressor, we run it within a couple of feet and then use a short hose to make the connection from the compressor to the 1/2 inch pipe.
You won't notice any issues.
I'm about to do this same thing. 3/8" hose from my compressor to my plumbing, then a 3/8" to 1/2" black iron reducer (increaser?) to 1/2" black iron piping. Got the reducer at Lowe's with all of my other black iron goodies.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
OK, I keep seeing posts of people running the compressed air lines with black iron pipe. May I ask why? Compressors take the outside air compress it and compress any moisture right out of the air and into the tank and lines. Seems like for that wet of an environment, you would want the corrosion resistance galvanize gives...
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mdbeck1
Well-known member
In a perfect world you might say that galvanized is better since it inhibits rust. There was a scare many years ago where the galvanizing material would break free from the inside of the pipes and clog the filters. This "scare" started a rumor that galvanized didn't work well as air line. It is my understanding that the new galvanized pipe is better. I don't think that the amount of water in the air (at least in this part of the country) is great enough to get a large amount of rust started (at least in the pipes). I know a LOT of shops from when I was a kid that used black pipe. Most of them were still in operation with the same pipe 30+ years later. I'll find out in a couple of years. My Dad is not doing well and we will be "parting out" his garage in the next couple of years. He's got 75-100 feet of black pipe that he has been using for compressed air line for the past 30+ years. I expect to see a light coating of rust.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
OK, at least I know the driver for the black pipe. I know they use black on gas lines for the same reason, but with gas it is at least dry...
As far as rust resistance, I'm going to guess the pipes in your fathers shop are probably OK.
This new "stuff" that sells as pipe today might not be. I had some I put in the ground (Galvanized) and in just about 5 years, I had to replace ALL of it as it had rusted away from the outside in. It was also de-laminating like you see really old iron doing sometimes. This stuff was some of the early Chinese imported pipe, and I was not too happy to be digging up my yard to replace it...
mdbeck1
Well-known member
Good to know.. I've been planning on running compressed air to my wood shop in the back yard. That's about 100 feet from the house. I was planning on running galvanized but if the "new" galvanized is only going to last 5+ years I might as well save the expense and use black iron (maybe paint it with galvanized paint on the outside???).
Outlaw, I ran out and bought black iron pipe the other night because I don't have the damnedest idea what I'm doing! I don't know where I got the idea, but I'm 100% certain I picked the idea up around here.
Also, I'm just slapping together something quick to make a water trap, really. I'm copying dwm's concept:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1760093&postcount=6
Also, I'm just slapping together something quick to make a water trap, really. I'm copying dwm's concept:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1760093&postcount=6
Bit off topic on my own thread but has anyone taken apart a kobalt compressor supplied pressure switch? Or find if its adjustable? Switch mine to auto and get nothing. can manually move the contact and it fires up. But thats it. Has a tamperproof torx in the middle that does something. However not sure what.
A friend gave me all the black pipe from this business when he retired, so it was a no brainer.
mdbeck1
Well-known member
Let's see the left side of that setup goes to the compressor and the right goes to the cord reel and/or tool?
Save yourself some power (compressor cycles) by putting a cutoff valve on the compressor tank. When you finish for the night just switch it off. That will minimize the pressure loss that you get from the connections. At least it does on mine.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
EDIT Removed mention of PVC being legal here for air lines, in fact it is NOT
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Can't say on the Kobalt. Normally the cover is removable and the on and off pressures are adjustable in my experience.
A Tamper resistant cover screw to me means they don't want the liability for someone running the pressures up higher than they set at the factory...
ps: Sorry for the slight derailment of the thread...
mdbeck1
Well-known member
Some of the guys on the board here are REAL "anti-PVC for airhose". They site a couple of studies that tell how much damage PVC does when it fails. I've got a neighbor that swears by PVC as well. PVC might work but someone will have to do a lot of talking to convince me it's the way to go.
For now I'm still planning on metal pipe of some type. It's been around a long time and I trust it to do the job.
Can't say on the Kobalt. Normally the cover is removable and the on and off pressures are adjustable in my experience.
A Tamper resistant cover screw to me means they don't want the liability for someone running the pressures up higher than they set at the factory...
ps: Sorry for the slight derailment of the thread...
Well the cover screw was a P2. The TP Torx was underneath. It prob andjusted the differential but it would never kick on in auto anyways.
If I were to use PVC I'd use sch80 as well for the piece of mind. I'm just gonna use black iron since i get discounts from grainger and its cheap. Of course its all from china. but the fittings look good along with the threads. I'm sure it'll work fine, hopefully.
Motofixxer
Well-known member
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- Oct 10, 2009
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I think every tank that I have ever seen had a pipe bushing at the outlet. Could you just change the bushing to a 3/4" or 1/2"? My new compressor had a 2" bushing that reduced to 1/2" so I just went to my local plumbing supply and purchased a 2" to 3/4" bushing for about $3.50 and went through some struggles trying to get the old one out. But in the end I got it and problem solved. If anyone thinks they will have a hard time getting the old bushing out I just thought of taking the tank to a truck service shop, or large equipment shop. They would likely have the big guns and sockets to remove the bushing with ease.
Otherwise just go with the biggest pipe that's realistic. I would suggest 3\4" for the average shop but many use 1\2". Any increase in pipe diameter is going to help. It will give you increased volume, and higher flow. What happens if in a couple years you decide you want to upgrade your compressor, or start painting or sand blasting etc? A little extra now will help a lot later.
As for the lines, I was recently at a local home improvement store and seen some newer blue pex that was rated at 200PSI. That might be a viable alternative for some.
Oh, yes, I got a nice Milton valve for between the compressor output and the whip hose to the wall plumbing. When it all goes together tomorrow, I'll post a pic of mine at, er, my own thread.
Never realized those were removable. I guess its a large thread then.
Since I'd most likely be moving before to long just doing an avg install. Then whenever I'm somewhere more permanent do a much nice job.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
OK, I did some in depth study on both the legality and safety of using PVC.
I retract ALL my comments on the use of PVC for Compressed air lines, and request those that quoted me to delete any quotes from me, on the use of PVC for air lines .
OSHA and the manufacturers do not recommend nor allow for the use of PVC piping for compressed air, except in special cases and when they discuss PVC use it must be either buried or encased, something most of us are not in the habit of doing.
As a reference on the subject: http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html
It may have been OK 30+ years ago when I saw in done in plants, but no longer...
I retract ALL my comments on the use of PVC for Compressed air lines, and request those that quoted me to delete any quotes from me, on the use of PVC for air lines .
OSHA and the manufacturers do not recommend nor allow for the use of PVC piping for compressed air, except in special cases and when they discuss PVC use it must be either buried or encased, something most of us are not in the habit of doing.
As a reference on the subject: http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html
It may have been OK 30+ years ago when I saw in done in plants, but no longer...
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dwm
Well-known member
No, compressor is on the right; water removal and filter need to be upstream of the regulator and manifold.
mdbeck1
Well-known member
dwm
Well-known member
My compressor came with one. And the receiver outlet on mine is top front, not side. I believe all of the Ingersoll-Rand compressors come with a shutoff valve. But my system is leak-free enough that my compressor cycles maybe once every 3 weeks if I forget to close it. I can't remember the last time it cycled from leak-down. It's much more likely to cycle once in a while from the automatic drain on the tank.