Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT 1950s Craftsman Garage retro remodel

[rickairmedic]

Dave that looks like a worthy restoration project to me . I will let you in on a secret Atlas absolutely looooooved Zamak and used it on almost all of their tools . They were still using it for all of the gears and several other parts on their lathes all the way up till the end in the late 70's early 80's . This is the main reason most " true machinests " do not like the Atlas lathes . The Southbends actually used real metal for their gears and such and yet seem to go for less money today than the Atlas's . Most feel this is due to collectors and not actual machinests .

Rick

 

[Red Leader]

Yep, and when enough problems arose on the smaller 101 Craftsman/Atlas saws with the teeth elevation gearing breaking off, some forum members over at OWWM got creative and found a way to cast them out of brass I believe.

I'm not a metalworking/machinist guy, but I bet these trunions could be fabbed up without too much fuss. There probably have been harder machining challenges to come along. Most would question if it was really worth it. If I knew of a way to do it for cheap I would. However, I'm lucky in that I think they are in okay shape (I just don't like the idea of that stuff in the saw, ya know?)

 

[GirlnAgarage]

You pulling off the name plate makes me ask, how will you reattach it? Standard (steel?) rivet?

 

[rickairmedic]

Ok I am not much of a machinest either " although I play one on TV . Get me a good pic of the trunions so I can see what it is we are trying to machine .


Rick

 

[Red Leader]

You pulling off the name plate makes me ask, how will you reattach it? Standard (steel?) rivet?

Just small metal screws going through the sheet metal.

In cast iron, it usually is the little twisty rivets that pop out when hammered out from the other side. Just can't think of their name off the top of my head.

 

[bluebolt]

]

As you can see, the cabinet base had random wheels bolted on. These will be removed and holes patched.

More pictures to follow...

Red Leader, the retractable caster pictured is a Craftsman. I have four I am adapting to a Craftsman table saw that has an original Craftsman stand, the open square type.

 

[Red Leader]

Ok I am not much of a machinest either " although I play one on TV . Get me a good pic of the trunions so I can see what it is we are trying to machine .


Rick

Ask and ye shall receive

As you can see, they are pretty straight forward. If someone was to mock one up, heck you could even make it out of a big rectangular piece of steel and not worry about the contours. The curved slot would be the biggest deal, and then there is the hole/slot for the tilt-lock bolt.

The trunions have 3 mount points as seen in the first picture, but what would simplify machining is to make it out of flat bar stock and either negate that third center point or have a triangular piece that mounts onto the side of the trunion (underneath the tilt lock) and then bolts to the 3rd center mount. Or just weld a tap for the 3rd bolt on there.

I don't know about machining stuff, but I've seen stuff that is much, much harder.

 

[Red Leader]

More pictures of the saw-


Getting ready for a little 'bath time':

Bottom of the table, showing the details:

The little bits:

Not shown: handwheels and side web extension.

The only thing this saw is missing is the knob for the fence and another side extension. It even has the original belt/pulley cover!


Honestly, I should really probably tackle my bandsaw before this thing, but I realized that if I don't do it now, I'm never going to

 

[Red Leader]

And fyi, today I was staring at my garage door hardware as I tried to bend up some drawers. Thanks alot Red Leader

Sometimes its the little things that count

 

[rickairmedic]

Ask and ye shall receive

As you can see, they are pretty straight forward. If someone was to mock one up, heck you could even make it out of a big rectangular piece of steel and not worry about the contours. The curved slot would be the biggest deal, and then there is the hole/slot for the tilt-lock bolt.

The trunions have 3 mount points as seen in the first picture, but what would simplify machining is to make it out of flat bar stock and either negate that third center point or have a triangular piece that mounts onto the side of the trunion (underneath the tilt lock) and then bolts to the 3rd center mount. Or just weld a tap for the 3rd bolt on there.

I don't know about machining stuff, but I've seen stuff that is much, much harder.

Ok on a mill those would be pretty easy to make up not so much on a lathe .



Rick

 

[shopnut]

Shopnut I was checking out your floor and it looks like you didn't use any chips, correct?

I think I'll have to use them to cover up some of the imperfections in the floor.

See Reply #812 - aren't you reading your replies?

I had imperfections even on my newly poured concrete - no big deal. My epoxy was thick and it tended to fill small craters and smooth everything out out a bit. YMMV

 

[flybefree]

Dave,

I like the idea of fabbing replacement trunions...but even though those are simple parts they will take a little time to mill. A nearby machine shop could surely do those in steel in a few hours of shop time. I didn't know about Atlas lathes...I am looking to upgrade some day to a solid Southbend some day. For now I have a little chineese rig. I like any of the color combinations that do not have black in them...the black chips on my floor just look like dirt/shadows and did not add any "artistic" effect to the treatment. Just my opinion.

Shaun

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Lookin' good Red Leader.

I guess I need to grab some sheet metal screws for my random items. I am curious, why not rivets to reinstall tags? Are screws just easier or cheaper? Is it a function issue?

 

[Red Leader]

See Reply #812 - aren't you reading your replies?

I had imperfections even on my newly poured concrete - no big deal. My epoxy was thick and it tended to fill small craters and smooth everything out out a bit. YMMV

Haha, I though you were referencing your thread, so I was looking all over your thread for the flooring stuff and didn't even think about what you had said in mine. And I have a new baby

I also missed some of Tone's comments. I agree that once I saw the checkered floor idea photoshopped onto the layout, it did look too busy. All the teal on the wall and the tools does overpower it I suppose, depending on your preference. If liking teal was a crime - lock me up!

 

[Red Leader]

Lookin' good Red Leader.

I guess I need to grab some sheet metal screws for my random items. I am curious, why not rivets to reinstall tags? Are screws just easier or cheaper? Is it a function issue?

The screws are original equipment - I will clean them up and just reinstall

 

[tinbender 66]

Just small metal screws going through the sheet metal.

In cast iron, it usually is the little twisty rivets that pop out when hammered out from the other side. Just can't think of their name off the top of my head.

I think they are called "little twisty rivets". Or, maybe blind rivets. I'm looking forward to seeing that saw come together!

 

[jwillis]

Whenever I put tape on something to paint next to another color as you did, I usually stick it to my shirt or pants before I put it on the other paint. It still sticks, but the small amount of lint on the tape keeps it from sticking too much to the paint I have already painted. Then, when I pull it off- the tape doesn't pull the paint off. Try it some time.

 

[Wingnut65]

#7

Hasn't anyone noticed that Red Leader is so detail oriented on getting this right that he had to use tweezers to separate a bag of chip samples into all the various colors in order to take these pictures? Wow!

And then figure out all the color options available to re-mix for the photos? Way to go, Dave.

And that little Atlas project should be just what the doctor ordered to fill the need for making progress on something! Sounds great.

Rick, good eye. That would be tough to make on a lathe!

 

[ddrewyor]

Whenever I put tape on something to paint next to another color as you did, I usually stick it to my shirt or pants before I put it on the other paint. It still sticks, but the small amount of lint on the tape keeps it from sticking too much to the paint I have already painted. Then, when I pull it off- the tape doesn't pull the paint off. Try it some time.

That trick also works for name stickers on shirts (use pants to collect lint). They come off easier without ruining the material.

 

[Red Leader]

Alright guys, a little update!

The family (wife and junior) took a little break up in the mtns for a prayer retreat w/ the foundation my work is a part of. Although, retreat seems to be a deceptive word when your talking about a 9 week old Still we had a good time and its good to be back.

I started on the Atlas cabinet 'beautification'. What is that phrase? Something has to get worse before it gets better? Or in this case 'something has to get uglier before it gets prettier'...

However, progress is being made. As you can see, I am giving the cabinet saw a 'foot soak'. Who says I don't pamper my tools?

Also, got the guts mostly apart. Things came apart relatively easy, and no manual required! (no manual available, actually). There are two sticky points. There is a threaded sleeve that is holding on all the junk on the table raising rod. Also, there is a threaded spanner nut that is keeping the arbor and bearings all together. Both are getting a good soak in WD40/PB Blaster as I do NOT want to stripe these particular parts.

Here is the sleeve:

And here is the spanner nut holding in the arbor bearings:

I gave it a slight tug with the spanner wrench and it didn't move. I'm not willing to risk stripping it so it will soak for at least a few days, which should give the cabinet time to de-rust.

Here is everything else apart:

All in all, it is coming together (technically, it would be coming apart, hee hee)! I'm happy because the trunions show very, very little wear. The two (it looks like two) bearings for the arbor look pretty normal and should have some type of replacement that shouldn't cost too much.

If you like the look of how things are going...this saw is probably going to be for sale at some point

I'm thinking of going with a dark metallic gunmetal hammered paint color for the cabinet, then gloss black accents (handwheel centers, trim pieces). I think it will look really really nice.

 

[Red Leader]

Hasn't anyone noticed that Red Leader is so detail oriented on getting this right that he had to use tweezers to separate a bag of chip samples into all the various colors in order to take these pictures? Wow!

And then figure out all the color options available to re-mix for the photos? Way to go, Dave.

And that little Atlas project should be just what the doctor ordered to fill the need for making progress on something! Sounds great.

Rick, good eye. That would be tough to make on a lathe!

I would love to take credit for working so hard, but Christine was nice enough to separate the colors into individual little bags. I did have to mix each any every color for the individual combinations though. Does that warrant any sympathy?

I should probably order that stuff this week. Hope they didn't think I forgot!

Your words are always uplifting, sometimes deserved, and never unappreciated!

 

[Red Leader]

Hello Red Leader,

Totally awesome shop. I love all your old school american iron woodworking tools. I especially like you Atlas drill press. I do have one question. What is the name of the font you use for 1950's Craftsman Garage script. I love it!

thanks,
Bret

Bret,

http://www.dafont.com/rocket-script.font

Thank you for your complimentary words!

 

[Red Leader]

Whenever I put tape on something to paint next to another color as you did, I usually stick it to my shirt or pants before I put it on the other paint. It still sticks, but the small amount of lint on the tape keeps it from sticking too much to the paint I have already painted. Then, when I pull it off- the tape doesn't pull the paint off. Try it some time.

That trick also works for name stickers on shirts (use pants to collect lint). They come off easier without ruining the material.

Good ideas, fellas

I'll have to try this next time I paint...which will happen eventually!

 

[tinbender 66]

I'm sure that saw will be a beauty! I'm curious to see how the Hammerite does at covering a large surface like that.

I guess I'm going to have to give that electolisys thing a try.

 

[shopnut]

See Reply #812 - aren't you reading your replies?

I had imperfections even on my newly poured concrete - no big deal. My epoxy was thick and it tended to fill small craters and smooth everything out out a bit. YMMV

Haha, I though you were referencing your thread, so I was looking all over your thread for the flooring stuff and didn't even think about what you had said in mine. And I have a new baby

Aw man, and here I was trying to save you a bunch of time by adding a hyperlink right back to the exact reply in your thread.

Maybe links are a bit futuristic for a 1950s garage , but just hover over and click on the "Reply #812" in my quote immediately above and you will see what I mean. Go ahead and try it - that new technology won't bite!

 

[fredlangva]

Arrrggghhh!!! I was just looking at the lastest updates and you've just complicated my life twice as much. Here I was thinking the Taupe would be pretty good for my garage and you kick it up 3 notches with a stripe!!!

Back to the drawing board

I think the 2 stripes with chip mix 5 or 6 is really slick, but laying down the stripes will be a bear. You may have already asked Christine about the process. I bet the folks at Epoxy Coat would love to help out with what to do since the finished floor will look like a million $.

I would be concerned with the tape sealing good to the floor and with glue residue messying up the substrate. I've seen a few mentions in threads about the blue painter tape not being "good" enough. I'll be watching for the answer.

You also got me looking for older shop tools. I've always wanted to "upgrade" my 70's Craftsman Table saw. The Atlas looks pretty good.

Keep up the great job! Always nice to read your thread

 

[51rider]

I can't decide between #6 & #15 for your chip options. Might just have to flip a coin.....

 

[e-tek]

Wow - what a read - what you lacked in speed, you made up for in style!! Love the color scheme.

 

[Red Leader]

Aw man, and here I was trying to save you a bunch of time by adding a hyperlink right back to the exact reply in your thread.

Maybe links are a bit futuristic for a 1950s garage , but just hover over and click on the "Reply #812" in my quote immediately above and you will see what I mean. Go ahead and try it - that new technology won't bite!

Hmmm...must have been out building my underground fallout shelter when you linked to your post

 

[Red Leader]

Arrrggghhh!!! I was just looking at the lastest updates and you've just complicated my life twice as much. Here I was thinking the Taupe would be pretty good for my garage and you kick it up 3 notches with a stripe!!!

Back to the drawing board

I think the 2 stripes with chip mix 5 or 6 is really slick, but laying down the stripes will be a bear. You may have already asked Christine about the process. I bet the folks at Epoxy Coat would love to help out with what to do since the finished floor will look like a million $.

I would be concerned with the tape sealing good to the floor and with glue residue messying up the substrate. I've seen a few mentions in threads about the blue painter tape not being "good" enough. I'll be watching for the answer.

You also got me looking for older shop tools. I've always wanted to "upgrade" my 70's Craftsman Table saw. The Atlas looks pretty good.

Keep up the great job! Always nice to read your thread

Your life is not the only one that this garage has complicated


I will be placing my order tomorrow with Epoxy-Coat and I will be asking Christine some very specific questions regarding the design.

About old tools...you can find them anywhere and everywhere - just keep looking. Oh, and let me know if you want an old vintage Atlas table saw

 

[Red Leader]

I can't decide between #6 & #15 for your chip options. Might just have to flip a coin.....

I think what I will do, based on my thoughts and the awesome feedback from this group, is to go ahead with #15, and if I decide down the road to just do the blue and creme chips, then I have that option as well. I'll just have to remember to specify to have them in separate bags - picking out all the black chips my not be very fun

Then again, maybe I'll just purposely ask them to mix it all together and invite Shopnut down and ask him to help sort out all the black ones

 

[Red Leader]

Wow - what a read - what you lacked in speed, you made up for in style!! Love the color scheme.

Thanks e-tek! Things don't move very fast over here...but the good news is that it gives me plenty of time to rethink all my garage ideas and complicate the build even further

 

[rickairmedic]

Ok Dave I just went back and looked at your Atlas table saw breakdown and I am gonna give you a freebie . First toss that yellow and blue can in the garbage can . Then go get yourself some of this here stuff .

http://www.kanolabs.com/


Kroil is a penetrating oil which will help with your classic tool rebuilds .

WD40 is " Water Displacement formula number 40 yep thats right thats what WD40 stands for .


Rick

 

[Red Leader]

The Power of Electrolysis

So...I took my Atlas saw cabinet out of its 'foot soak' tonight.

Here is what greeted me:

But! Never fear! Electrolysis is freakin cool.

It is the one of the most effective and non-invasive techniques for removing rust. Just don't get the red clamp/black clamp thing backwards! I'm going to wire wheel the rest of the paint off, then sand the cabinet so that the primer can get a good bite.

There are still some good areas of light surface rust on the inside of the cabinet. I'm thinking about trying Evaporust - I've heard AWESOME things about it.

I'm also rethinking my paint options. Instead of the hammered paint, I'm thinking about just going with a non-textured paint. I'd still like to keep it the deep metallic grey/bronze type color, but just without the hammered look. The accents will be in black. It will look pretty spiffy.

And my garage is a disaster, yet again. This time, at least, it is for the good cause of rescuing an old tool.

-RL

 

[Red Leader]

Ok Dave I just went back and looked at your Atlas table saw breakdown and I am gonna give you a freebie . First toss that yellow and blue can in the garbage can . Then go get yourself some of this here stuff .

http://www.kanolabs.com/


Kroil is a penetrating oil which will help with your classic tool rebuilds .

WD40 is " Water Displacement formula number 40 yep thats right thats what WD40 stands for .


Rick

Rick,

No kiddin. For all intents and purposes, I do not really like WD-40. Actually, it drives me bonkers when I see folks using it on their bicycle chains - it collects dirt! Hello!!! (although the worst is when I saw someone coat their chain in bearing grease...) Don't fear, I soon switched to PB Blaster, which I have had better experience with. However, I'm always looking for the next best thing.

 

[rickairmedic]

Dave I like PB myself but was turned onto Kroil by my neighbor who works at the big electric plant up the street and I have to admit I usually grab it first nowdays although there is a can of it both in my service truck and in the garage . Next we will teach you the ATF/kerosene trick to penetrating oils .


Rick

 

[Red Leader]

Dave I like PB myself but was turned onto Kroil by my neighbor who works at the big electric plant up the street and I have to admit I usually grab it first nowdays although there is a can of it both in my service truck and in the garage . Next we will teach you the ATF/kerosene trick to penetrating oils .


Rick

I've also hear that diesel fuel (or some diluted mixture thereof) makes a good penetrating oil. All kinds of new tricks to learn! Hopefully that sleeve and little nut won't create that big of trouble!

EDIT: btw I feel like I have to edit my posts 1000 times as I re-read them and stick completely random words in where other words should be. Is this normal?

 

[tinbender 66]

EDIT: btw I feel like I have to edit my posts 1000 times as I re-read them and stick completely random words in where other words should be. Is this normal?[/QUOTE]

Yes it's normal. Or at least I'd like to think so

 

[mmarvinn]

Red Leader, your garage design has nice details.

 

[shopnut]

I think what I will do, based on my thoughts and the awesome feedback from this group, is to go ahead with #15, and if I decide down the road to just do the blue and creme chips, then I have that option as well. I'll just have to remember to specify to have them in separate bags - picking out all the black chips my not be very fun

Then again, maybe I'll just purposely ask them to mix it all together and invite Shopnut down and ask him to help sort out all the black ones

Just send the bag of flakes here - sounds like a great way to pass time while locked up in the Asylum

Don't be surprised, however, if the package mysteriously gets lost in the mail on the return trip

(Seriously - I'm sure you will make those flakes look great!)