HF breaker bar or look for something better?

[NOMAD]

I need a long breaker bar to release the crank bolt on my BMW 318is.

I went to HF and all they had was a monster 25" 1/2 drive bar. A bit large but it could be useful. It was $15 but it looked pretty beefy. Not sure if they can mess that design up. Anyone use and or break one of these?

I was just looking for an 18" 1/2 drive breaker bar. Craftsman wants $30 or so and others are no better.

Should I just get the monster and "fogeddaboudit"? Any other store to look at for low prices?

 

[nissan_crawler]

The tolerances in them ****. If it's the same ones I looked at, it's a ripoff of the MAC design, and done horribly. I bought the 24" mac bar, and prefer it over the snap-ons even. To date I have broken 6 craftsman breaker bars, and the mac one gets it out every time.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MAC-V24F-1-2-Drive-Breaker-Bar-Braker-24-Long-Tool_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ43993QQihZ016QQitemZ260184254592QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

That's a decent price, mine was about $85-90 off the truck.

 

[Danglerb]

The HF goes on sale for about $10, and so far has proven an adequate persuader every time I have used it.

I'm actually snooping at swapmeets for a MONSTER ratchet, since one of the uses I have in mind is to rotate the crank pulley.

 

[nissan_crawler]

I wouldn't use the crank bolt to turn the engine, personally. I've seen too many problems from that. It wouldn't be bad if all plugs were out, but there's no way I would do it under compression.

 

[eschoendorff]

I have a 24" S*K breaker bar. i got it for about $40 from thetoolwarehouse.net. it's definitely more beefy than the HF model. I also noticed that the S*K does not flex nearly as much as the HF under load.

 

[Yotaforce]

I wouldn't use the crank bolt to turn the engine, personally. I've seen too many problems from that. It wouldn't be bad if all plugs were out, but there's no way I would do it under compression.

I don't think he wants to turn the motor with it, he wants to REMOVE it. I had to build a tool for just such need. I could not remove the bolt in one of my old Honda's and called the Honda dealer to ask how they did it. They said they had welded three 6' peices of rebar (1/2") and welded an impact socket to the end. They would put the car up on a lift, lock the pulley in position, and smack the bolt with a hammer while someone else used the tool with the extra leverage. So I made one. Honda likes to smother the crank bolt with red loc-tite and torque it down to like 180ft lb.

 

[rsanter]

if its the really long one I saw at HF it looked fairly beefy to me. looked like a snap-on clone. of course you dont know the quality of the steel...

bob

 

[Uncle Buck]

I too buy some stuff ay HF but this is one I would pass on. For something like that commonly the demands are high on such a tool while in use and I would not want to lay money on the HF one. I too would suggest looking at the SK model as esch suggested.

 

[rlb1953]

I bought a similar one (likely from the same chinese factory) from Peavey Mart. Considering the rusty junk I'm always working on, I'd say it is standing up really well. The handle very slight curved near the head (from the 3' cheater bar) but there are no signs of cracks, and the chrome isn't flaking. For strength, I'm very happy with it.

If I had one complaint, I would say the handle is a little too thin. On a really tough nuts, you need a lot of room to swing the handle because of the flex. If you want to apply a large, steady torque , it is perfect. If you are trying to really shock a nut loose, it is no replacement for a 3/4" socket.

Roger

 

[Chris Adams]

I have one of the HF 25 inch breaker bars.
I have about a dozen half inch breaker bars, about 8 different brands. The HF is not fancy but is very serviceable. Weakest point would be the head, but I've put 300lbs on it, no problem.




I think the HF would snap if you pulled it beyond about 20 degree flex where my old vintage Williams 18 inch could be bent to 40 degrees and just snap back.
But you won’t be doing anything like that.


Remember, the guys who insist you need Snap-On or some other industrial tools are guys that use the tool a lot, often with cheater bars or hammers.

These are people to whom time is money and who regularly push tools beyond their limits.

If you just want to use the bar within its design parameters you would be quite safe.

But if you are removing the nut shouldn't you be using an impact tool?
What are you going to brace the flywheel with? That's the weak point, not the nut.

 

[Yotaforce]

I used to think that "breaker bar" meant that it would break when you didn't want it to. Or break your fingers when it did snap the head off. I have a couple left, but my best investment was a pair of Mechanix "impact" gloves. I've never owned a HF bar, but have broken a few name brand bars.

 

[jay50]

I don't think he wants to turn the motor with it, he wants to REMOVE it. I had to build a tool for just such need. I could not remove the bolt in one of my old Honda's and called the Honda dealer to ask how they did it. They said they had welded three 6' peices of rebar (1/2") and welded an impact socket to the end. They would put the car up on a lift, lock the pulley in position, and smack the bolt with a hammer while someone else used the tool with the extra leverage. So I made one. Honda likes to smother the crank bolt with red loc-tite and torque it down to like 180ft lb.

Yeah, those Honda Crankbolts on Accords are an SOB to get out. Even when using the holding tool that fits in face of pulley and an impact, some will not budge. Have used the "blue wrench" on face of bolt to get them loose.

 

[ephotrod]

The craftsman I-beam breaker bars are good. Last time i checked they were price at about $30.00 dollars US. If you need to lock up the bottom end use a flywheel turner against a bolt that is used to connect the bellhousing to the block. I've also seen a chain used.

 

[nissan_crawler]

I'm actually snooping at swapmeets for a MONSTER ratchet, since one of the uses I have in mind is to rotate the crank pulley.

I don't think he wants to turn the motor with it, he wants to REMOVE it.

I've seen rope wrapped around the pulley and tied to the frame, rope stuck in the spark plug hole (not my choice), and a breaker bar against the frame and bumping the starter. Since some (if not all) Honda's run the opposite direction, that might not be a good idea on them.

 

[Danglerb]

I actually would be using it to crank the motor, with the plugs OUT of course, in the course of checking timing belt tension.

Just a thought, if your bending a 25" breaker bar, maybe its not the right tool for the job. I think I would be looking at making a tool with a 6' handle, but the blue wrench might be better choice.

 

[64merc]

This thread was started at a good time because I was kind of wondering how much I need to spend on a 24" bar. You would think that regulations dictate certain criteria for breaker bars. Even so, the cheapie bars would probably just be thicker and heavier to make up for the poorer quality steel. I don't really want to take a chance since it wouldn't be pretty if the thing snaps on me. My thinking is that it you can probably go cheap on a 15" or 18", but once you get any longer than that you should probably pay for better quality. You know, with all the tricks the tool companies have been playing I don't know who to trust anymore.

 

[kvom]

I got one of the NT versions (2' x 1/2") that I keep in my toolbox in the Jeep. So far it's worked quite well the few times I needed it.

I also use it as a tire iron offroad, with a 6" extension and a suitable socket. Easier to store than a 4-way.

 

[TNToy]

I use a 20"ish inch long 1/2" ratchet to turn motors over while doing timing belts (all plugs installed). This goes for Toyotas, Suzukis, and Volvo's. I've done dozens of belts on each when I worked for their dealerships.

On Toyotas, a 2135Ti will usually take crank bolts out without a problem on the sideways motors, where you can stick an impact in through the fenderwell.

On the truck motors which are front-to-back (~4" between the radiator and the crank pulley)... We wrap a 24" chain wrench (CW24 Blue Point) around the pulley, and pull on that while twisting a 24" Snappy breaker bar in the opposite direction. Works every time.

 

[russlaferrera]

What about a good used 3/4 drive ratchet? More heavy duty, easier to index.

 

[Danglerb]

What about a good used 3/4 drive ratchet? More heavy duty, easier to index.

Thats what I was thinking, they show up at the swap meet from time to time cheap as surplus items, the socket might cost more than the ratchet though.

 

[NOMAD]

I'm using it to remove the front crank bolt from my BMW 318is. The bolt is torqued to like 220ft/lb or something. The clutch wants to slip before the bolt it seems. Everywhere I've read says this particular engine doesn't like impacts as the crank will turn but not the bolt.

So the preferred method (other than the factory tool) appears to be pinning the breaker bar against the subframe and bumping the starter and it'll loosen it.

I'd rather have something I can use for a while so I'm tempted to get the HF because it's cheap and probably will work, but I think I may go with a shorter one and put a bar on it.

 

[oldgoat]

How about using a 3/4 breaker? I bought one from HF for use on a camper in case I would need to change a tire away from home.

 

[eschoendorff]

How about using a 3/4 breaker? I bought one from HF for use on a camper in case I would need to change a tire away from home.

if you're gonna go cheap.... this is probably a good bet. you get a little more steel in the breaker bar. Of course you'll need to get teh appropriate sized 3/4" drive socket. That could cost you.

BTW... the S*K that I posted is a really nice quality breaker bar and only cost about $45.00.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/SK-41654.html

 

[Chris Adams]

Nomad, you are looking at overkill. 220 lbs torque is 18 inch breaker bar stuff. The 3/4 ratchets would probably be too thick and short for your job.
And I don't think that info is right on the impact. The value of an impact gun is that it doesn't move the whole assembly, just the 'local' nut. Done hundreds of crank bolts, though only one on a BMW with various impact drivers and never had the assembly turn.

 

[Rusty67]

I'm totally confused here. Why the hell would you use anything other then an impact with the correct size impact socket to remove a crank pully or dampener bolt ? The impact gun I've got is a total piece of junk and it has taken off everything I've ever tried, granted some things took a LOT longer but they always came off. IMO there is no better way to get bolts out that go into stuff that rotates.

 

[russlaferrera]

Thats what I was thinking, they show up at the swap meet from time to time cheap as surplus items, the socket might cost more than the ratchet though.

Get an adapter 3/4 to 1/2. IMO a good one, as that will be the weakest point. Plus you can use all your 1/2 stuff.

 

[russlaferrera]

I'm totally confused here. Why the hell would you use anything other then an impact with the correct size impact socket to remove a crank pully or dampener bolt ? The impact gun I've got is a total piece of junk and it has taken off everything I've ever tried, granted some things took a LOT longer but they always came off. IMO there is no better way to get bolts out that go into stuff that rotates.

I agree (Not that your impact is a piece of junk) that an impact is the way to go, on all rotating assemblies.

 

[NOMAD]

Because I don't have one, that's why.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I'm totally confused here. Why the hell would you use anything other then an impact with the correct size impact socket to remove a crank pully or dampener bolt ? The impact gun I've got is a total piece of junk and it has taken off everything I've ever tried, granted some things took a LOT longer but they always came off. IMO there is no better way to get bolts out that go into stuff that rotates.

Because, on a fore/aft engine, like my Ranger, there is not always enough room to get the impact and a socket in there without removing things that you don't want to be removing.

On my Ranger the clutch would not hold the engine, I removed the pulley and put a 24" stilson pipe wrench on the large irregular shaped solid iron crank damper, and wedged it against the frame, and used a heavy breaker bar and a 6 ft cheater pipe to break the bolt loose. Needless to say, it is no longer that tight, I've changed the belt three times now and its an easy 2 hr job now that I don't have to mess with an overtightened bolt.

Charles

 

[Rusty67]

Because I don't have one, that's why.

You must hate yourself. You REALLY need to get a small compressor and an impact set. I use to beat myself up time and again without this equipment. Now that I have it I don't just wonder how I lived without it, I hate myself for not geting it sooner.



As far as a fore/aft engine, do you mean a transverse mounted engine ?

 

[edl]

i've got the same one and it has done everything i have asked of it...most noticably freeing up lug nuts rusted on to wheel studs...thumbs up from me - thx, ed!

 

[Crasen]

A transversly mounted engine would be the typical front wheel drive car with the engine going left to right. He is speaking of an inversely mounted engine like a typical rwd or truck with it front to back

 

[SteveU]

i've got the same one and it has done everything i have asked of it...most noticably freeing up lug nuts rusted on to wheel studs...thumbs up from me - thx, ed!

I just got a SK 16" that looks to be good quality & will be getting a SK 24" in the future. I also have a Craftsman that I have had to literally bounce up & down on the end of to remove the front lugnuts on a vehicle belonging to a lady I work with to replace the front pads. Now that I have the Nitrocat that won't be happening anymore

 

[Rusty67]

A transversly mounted engine would be the typical front wheel drive car with the engine going left to right. He is speaking of an inversely mounted engine like a typical rwd or truck with it front to back

Thanks for clearing that up. I'm not too good with port/starboard either

 

[Danglerb]

For some reason none of the breaker bars I have found at the swap meet were cheap enough to suit me, always $5 or $10 or more. I'd like something to complement the HF 25" 1/2", like an 18" 3/8" and a 12" 1/4". Sooner or later.

 

[Uncle Buck]

For some reason none of the breaker bars I have found at the swap meet were cheap enough to suit me, always $5 or $10 or more. I'd like something to complement the HF 25" 1/2", like an 18" 3/8" and a 12" 1/4". Sooner or later.

Good luck finding such a critter, I do not think what you describe is made by anyone, or at least if it is that would be news to me!

 

[NOMAD]

Well, for starters I went and got the 1/2" HF 25" long breaker bar($9). We'll see how it does.
My budget didn't allow for a c-man $40 one.