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Garage Floor Drain Location

Gunslinger99

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Feb 13, 2010
Messages
50
Hello All,

Getting ready to put drains into my garage and was wondering where would be the best place to install these. I'm looking at installing a 9" square grate drains. One in each bay I heard is best?

My main question is would I want to center them on the room or would I want to offset them a bit and put them closer to the garage doors?

Thanks for any and all replies.
 
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BillK

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Aug 24, 2006
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Beautiful Southern Maryland
gs,
Cant really comment on the location in the floor but wanted to mention that in a lot of areas floor drains are no longer legal. I know for sure you cant put one in where I live. Might want to check before you spend a bunch of money.
 

K'ledgeBldr

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Aug 22, 2011
Messages
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Location
Johns Creek, GA
Garage floor drains are not permitted (hence the reason for sloped floors)- IRC.
All garage floor surfaces shall be paved with a minimum four-inch-thick, waterimpervious,
noncombustible concrete floor with expansion joints.
The garage floor shall be pitched to surface drain all parts of the garage through the
vehicle door opening. Floor drains in a residential garage shall not be permitted, except
that in a below grade garage unit, a grated, water catchbasin or trench may be installed
outside of the overhead door of the garage. It can not be connected to any public or private sewer or storm system.
Floor drains are permitted for basements.
 

trbomax

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Mar 21, 2010
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Location
starvation lake,mi.
Where I am the floor drains are OK if the drain field they go to is contained within the footing of the building. That being said,I still would not drain one within a hundred feet of my well. At the marina in ohio I had to have oil separaters for each building,then they were allowed into the sanitary. Its a local thing and if you can sneak it in , go for it but I would stay far away from any well used for drinking purposes.
 

hockey88fan

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May 25, 2011
Messages
428
I just put them in my garage and took them under the floor out to a catch basin. Located in each bay in the center of where I thought each vehicle would be parked. I set them about an inch and a half down below the finished floor, the concrete guys did a great job creating a very gradual slope to the drains.
 

Frank The Plumber

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Feb 19, 2011
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Location
Chicago.
These floor drains in a garage are really a dangerous and not well understood thing.

I read the threads about PVC and air and the OH my gosh stuff in one of those threads. To be quite honest with you guys an improperly run floor drain in a garage is a heck of a lot more dangerous than the air issue yet none of you guys realize it. I guess you just don't understand the physics of it.

Another of the odd things is that in a lot of cases you guys will say that it is A OKey Dokey and legal by you to do anything you want. I doubt that, I really do. And I base that upon the chemical physics f the situation.

You know each and every one of you that gasoline is flash flammable and explosive.

You know the most of you that fuel vapors can travel and collect and that you can have a flash fire across the room from an ignition source like a water heater.

Most of you also realize that strange things can happen on a car or a container of solvents, vapors. Tanks leak and rupture. **** happens.

Now where I fear that many of you are failing here is that you are not understanding that there are ways to keep you from dying in the event you walked into a shop with a cigarette in your mouth that had a fuel tank rupture.

A triple basin dilution basin. This is really the only way to contain a fuel spill in a safer way.

When a vapor source leaks it goes into the basin, is stored there and you have to call out a company to evacuate the fuel vapor source in a safe way. Stored as in contained. Contained as in kept from other people, water sources, drinking waters and kept in a way that any of the additional vapors will be let off into a safe area until the pumper comes out.

In a fuel spill situation that leaks into french drain you are now going to have a vapor source under the floor of your shop, that could cause a myriad of different troubles.

If you tie it into a basin that goes through your home, you can vaporize the basin, send vapors into the kitchen and god forbid your wife or yourself smokes or plug in the toaster. Boom.

If you dump fuel into a sewer it travels vaporizing the entire way, leaving a trail of flammable vapors along the street at each vent cover, into each homes vent system and this opens a lot of dire scenarios.

If you dump it onto the surface outside or into a leach field you are spreading contaminates and vapors into your yard or field, again this is not cool, a buddy goes out and has a smoke or you have a dry day and a little static and boom, fields of death.

So you might say well what am I supposed to do? Well unless you want to spend the money for a proper system you just should curb your garage edges and slope the floor so anything goes out the door.

Truth is you can be F'd in a hurry in a fuel spill, you want to be able to control the troubles, there's a reason you see the fire men come out and treat oh just a little spilled fuel as if it was so dangerous, fact is that it is just that dangerous. If you have the misfortune of a fuel spill it is best to if, god forbid you lose your shop at least it is just the shop, not the house, the family and half the neighbor hood.

You may say, Dude it could not happen. Stranger **** has. If you want to understand why all of the water heaters now have a glass door and a sealed burner unit you may want to research it. You should find a story about a guy who was filling his lawn mower full of fuel in his garage on a Sunday morning in not much more than his skivies and flip flops. Well this poor guy had the misfortune of physic not liking him very much, and ...to put it bluntly it kicked his ***. The vapor went into the heater, traveled across the room lit the can and him and everything on fire and burned the holy gosh out of him.

Now you may say gee just that one time what's all the fuss? That is not just the once, it happened a lot of times. And that sort of coincides with all of tis, it happens a lot more than you guys realize and that is why there are laws and codes. And BTW if you don't think you have a code or a law covering this you could be technically correct, however keep in mind that physics and odd stuff really don't give a rats **** about a code. Sometimes good old fashioned common sense and proper practice on your part are the only thing that can keep you safe.

All I ask is that you think about it, apply your common sense knowledge to it, what you know. I'd hate to see a picture of you as a hit on some web site all burned to **** over something as damn stupid as a floor drain.
 

dirttracker18

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Joined
Aug 10, 2009
Messages
3,191
Location
Slate River, ON
Garage floor drains are not permitted (hence the reason for sloped floors)- IRC.
All garage floor surfaces shall be paved with a minimum four-inch-thick, waterimpervious,
noncombustible concrete floor with expansion joints.
The garage floor shall be pitched to surface drain all parts of the garage through the
vehicle door opening. Floor drains in a residential garage shall not be permitted, except
that in a below grade garage unit, a grated, water catchbasin or trench may be installed
outside of the overhead door of the garage. It can not be connected to any public or private sewer or storm system.
Floor drains are permitted for basements.

Perhaps where you are but I do not think it is a good idea to speak so generally and quote code from your area.

Where I am you CAN build in floor drains but must follow specific rules when doing so. As well we DO NOT have to slope the floor in any direction, can build the floor out of wood or leave as gravel and DO NOT require expansion joints (they are in fact very uncommon unless in a large commercial application, and I have no cracks in my 30 X 36, 4 years now).

Just keep in mind codes differ from area to area.

FWIW I love having my floor drain but wish the concrete guy had not messed up and had a slight slope up around the drain. I have to squegee to the drain the last small puddles :(
 

Frank The Plumber

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Messages
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Location
Chicago.
Perhaps where you are but I do not think it is a good idea to speak so generally and quote code from your area.

Where I am you CAN build in floor drains but must follow specific rules when doing so. As well we DO NOT have to slope the floor in any direction, can build the floor out of wood or leave as gravel and DO NOT require expansion joints (they are in fact very uncommon unless in a large commercial application, and I have no cracks in my 30 X 36, 4 years now).

Just keep in mind codes differ from area to area.

FWIW I love having my floor drain but wish the concrete guy had not messed up and had a slight slope up around the drain. I have to squegee to the drain the last small puddles :(

The code is only influenced as a reaction to a specific problem. Just because you do not have a specific law or code that is designed to guide you in your installation practices does not mean that you are safe doing what ever you wish.

It simply means that for some reason, your area does not mandate certain things. In a lot of cases codes are changed simply because the populace feels that the absolute correct way is too spendy for them, so they change the code to a lesser spec.

Just because something is not covered by a code in your area does not mean that it can not hurt you there. It may just mean that the code officer ran out of paper and decided not to bother because no one in the county or town was ever going to read the code any ways.

This poster is quoting best practice and best theory, Based upon science and understanding of situations that may arise. If your local jurisdiction does not cover this, it does not mean that the theory or science is incorrect.

It means that your area may not feel the need to protect you in a way that might be common sense. It might be that the chance of occurance in your area is so low that not many think about it. I'd venture a bet that if a guy burned himself up over this in your area, that the next meeting of council would adopt a few code to keep another poor guy from doing the same. I'd venture that if 2 poor guys did it fairly close to each other that you would all be voluntarily doing things to prevent the problem. People are reactionary not preventive by nature. You never learn to hold a nail til you flatten your thumb, twice. After three times you want a different nail. 4th time you want a code.
 

dirttracker18

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Aug 10, 2009
Messages
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Location
Slate River, ON
The code is only influenced as a reaction to a specific problem. Just because you do not have a specific law or code that is designed to guide you in your installation practices does not mean that you are safe doing what ever you wish.

It simply means that for some reason, your area does not mandate certain things. In a lot of cases codes are changed simply because the populace feels that the absolute correct way is too spendy for them, so they change the code to a lesser spec.

Just because something is not covered by a code in your area does not mean that it can not hurt you there. It may just mean that the code officer ran out of paper and decided not to bother because no one in the county or town was ever going to read the code any ways.

This poster is quoting best practice and best theory, Based upon science and understanding of situations that may arise. If your local jurisdiction does not cover this, it does not mean that the theory or science is incorrect.

It means that your area may not feel the need to protect you in a way that might be common sense. It might be that the chance of occurance in your area is so low that not many think about it. I'd venture a bet that if a guy burned himself up over this in your area, that the next meeting of council would adopt a few code to keep another poor guy from doing the same. I'd venture that if 2 poor guys did it fairly close to each other that you would all be voluntarily doing things to prevent the problem. People are reactionary not preventive by nature. You never learn to hold a nail til you flatten your thumb, twice. After three times you want a different nail. 4th time you want a code.

Frank

The OP asked about best placement for his drains and the poster noted his code for his area. I am not debating the safety aspects as I am not in a postion to do so. I was just saying that one should not assume what is in code for one area there by applies to all areas.

On another note, they are permissible here but must have a variety of safeguards in place. I assume to address issues as you have noted. jsut assuming though.
 
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hockey88fan

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May 25, 2011
Messages
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Never realized they would be considered illegal and never thought to ask frankly, just put them in when i poured the floor, seems like government over stepping it's bounds if you ask me.
 

Bennie

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Jun 13, 2011
Messages
181
Location
Belle Plaine, MN
I have a few trench drains. I have then about 2' in from the garage door and running parallel to the door. My thought behind that was that water/snow would go back in the direction in came in from. I've been very happy with the placement.
 

Frank The Plumber

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Joined
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Messages
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Location
Chicago.
The forces that be shall we call them only really intervene if and when they might see a problem. Like something so far out bizarre that you could not possibly see that coming and biting you. This is one of those odd ball things that really can get you. Like the water heater thing. I mean, if you're just a white collar kind of a guy who does not function well in the land of tools and grease, what a rude awakening.

I suppose the only reason I'm pursuing this at all and I'm not targeting anyone or shaming anyone or trying to make anyone feel bad, I just want you guys to be aware.

Modern man is up against it with all of the goofy **** that can happen out there. Pipes exploding, snipping live wires, walking across the street and not being seen. It's a freakin jungle out there. So the more you know and the more you think about "hey gee what if" the safer you can tend to be. Unless it all proves too much and you wiig out.

You might have a drain in your shop that goes some place odd, maybe it could be made safer without going too crazy. At the very least you will have this vapors concept fresh in your mind and if the gas tank on the truck leaks out in the middle of the night at least you might be better prepared for it.

I think the only reason you don't see a great product produced to help keep you safe is that some how it would fail and then the guy who made it would be ruined.

One in a million and theres 6 billion of us. That adds up sort of fast.
 

K'ledgeBldr

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Johns Creek, GA
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=777272&postcount=1

From this post I'd say- "Why do you keep asking the same question over and over again?"
Also, if you were "working" with an architect- he/she should have known what codes would be enforced for your particular build. And if there was any doubt- they would have found out. Is this architect part of a design/build team, or do you have a GC that's actually doing the construction?
From all the responses so far it's obvious that there are a multitude of possible answers. You really need to direct your questions to the architect or the GC who is doing the actual construction and is familiar with the local code requirements.
 

long handles

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Joined
Jan 19, 2011
Messages
131
Location
AK
I've seen lots of residential garages here in Alaska with a centered floor drain, with the floor tapered (meaning triangles from the corners of the garage to the drain) to the drain.

I'd put an inspection pit in to just to piss people off too and to give the "you can't do thats" something to fuss about.

There's still plenty of pits and floor drains in use in this country.

OMG, we're all gonna die.
 
Last edited:

SteelHorseHD

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Joined
Apr 27, 2011
Messages
188
Location
Illinois
Perhaps where you are but I do not think it is a good idea to speak so generally and quote code from your area.

Where I am you CAN build in floor drains but must follow specific rules when doing so. As well we DO NOT have to slope the floor in any direction, can build the floor out of wood or leave as gravel and DO NOT require expansion joints (they are in fact very uncommon unless in a large commercial application, and I have no cracks in my 30 X 36, 4 years now).

Just keep in mind codes differ from area to area.

FWIW I love having my floor drain but wish the concrete guy had not messed up and had a slight slope up around the drain. I have to squegee to the drain the last small puddles :(


Doesn't that drive you crazy!?! my concrete guy did the same thing!!!
 

moserjj

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Oct 17, 2010
Messages
155
Location
WI, USA
I have 2 9x8 garage doors with a drain centered in each door just under half way in (13' from garage doors in a 28' deep garage). I didn't want water puddling in the middle where you get out of the car, I wanted the slop to drain under the car. Perfectly fine to just daylight garage drains in my area
 

Frank The Plumber

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Feb 19, 2011
Messages
2,644
Location
Chicago.
I've seen lots of residential garages here in Alaska with a centered floor drain, with the floor tapered (meaning triangles from the corners of the garage to the drain) to the drain.

I'd put an inspection pit in to just to piss people off too and to give the "you can't do thats" something to fuss about.

There's still plenty of pits and floor drains in use in this country.

OMG, we're all gonna die.

Wait a minute...you're the poster who hates the hot chicks thread. I'm not sure you're not just kidding on here too.
 
OP
G

Gunslinger99

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Feb 13, 2010
Messages
50
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=777272&postcount=1

From this post I'd say- "Why do you keep asking the same question over and over again?"
Also, if you were "working" with an architect- he/she should have known what codes would be enforced for your particular build. And if there was any doubt- they would have found out. Is this architect part of a design/build team, or do you have a GC that's actually doing the construction?
From all the responses so far it's obvious that there are a multitude of possible answers. You really need to direct your questions to the architect or the GC who is doing the actual construction and is familiar with the local code requirements.

This is a different question and different situation. My original question was about placement of the drains within the garage not weather or not it met code. I am doing the GC'ing myself. I asked my local building inspector about drains in the garage and he said that they can be piped out to a gravel pit unless I wanted to tie them into the sewer system, which I do not.

My question about drain placement was more of an inquiry of those that have done this and what has worked best for them. I have never had a garage with a drain so I don't know what would work best, center, off center, etc.
 

nmanitou

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Mar 17, 2009
Messages
221
Location
Michigan
Here is what I did, and why.

Drains are allowed by code in my area, without oil/water separators, for residential use if drained to soil and not connected to a sewer system. We have sandy soil so it works. Not trying to start a ******* match on the dangers of drains in garage's.

I selected a trench drain style to cover 6' width of the stall space. This allows for a minimal floor slope side to side and gives good coverage. I placed it about 6' inside of the overhead door opening with the thought of keeping it just ahead of the rear wheels when the car is is place.

I also wanted it there to collect snow melt in the winter since I usually park the snow blower near that door opening. The layout works great FOR ME. I love it. It performs just as I had wanted.

Here is what is looks like.

smwr9e.jpg


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