Reed Vise Restoration ( Rough start )

[NastyNate]

UPDATE​

!I have added all pictures to the first post but not the information!​

So I picked this big boy up a few weeks ago and have been drooling over some of the restoration projects I have seen on here. I decided it was time to sit down and start the cleaning project before I start electrolysis. I started off removing the dynamic jaw only had one minor spot to file down. Next I removed the main nut. Next I planned on removing the collar holding the lead screw in place. Here's where I ran into problems. The split nut seems to have a few punches around it to hold the retaining screw in place. (see pics below) The screw already looks like someone tried to remove it with no success. My options are leaving it, cleaning it as much as possible and going through electrolysis as it sits or trying to drill out the screw and tapping out a new on on the other side.
Anyways heres a few pics more to follow shortly.

 

[SweetD]

Nice vise. That's interesting with the punches around that collar screw. I think that might be an "aftermarket" feature. Kind of *****. FWIW, my big Reed (branded Craftsman) of similar vintage and size did not have those punches - everything came apart really easily for me (rare).

The one thing I think of is that if you do leave it in for electrolysis, it's not the end of the world. After all, a lot of that lead screw and the inner slide is the part you'll never see.

I'm curious to hear whether other guys have seen that retaining screw with the punch marks around it...

Good luck and keep posting pics!

Dave

 

[NastyNate]

Nice vise. That's interesting with the punches around that collar screw. I think that might be an "aftermarket" feature. Kind of *****. FWIW, my big Reed (branded Craftsman) of similar vintage and size did not have those punches - everything came apart really easily for me (rare).

The one thing I think of is that if you do leave it in for electrolysis, it's not the end of the world. After all, a lot of that lead screw and the inner slide is the part you'll never see.

I'm curious to hear whether other guys have seen that retaining screw with the punch marks around it...

Good luck and keep posting pics!

Dave

I looked around and have yet to find any pictures depicting punch marks.
I am not too awful concerned about the look on the underside I just wanted to have a full blown 100% tear down and clean it all up. It's not the end of the world just disappointing.

 

[NastyNate]

It has begun!!! Started the electrolsys process and I can see it working already. Figured it being my first time I would end up electrocuting myself.
I will post more pictures later!

 

[BuckHenry]

Very nice vise. What size is it?

 

[NastyNate]

Very nice vise. What size is it?

5" jaws overall length around 25"

 

[Outlawmws]

Are you using an aluminum pan for the sacrificial anode? (Please don't tell me it is SS...)

You should also get your battery clamp out of the electrolyte. You are adding dissimilar metals and may ruin the clamp.

 

[Steevo]

I was going to ask the same thing about the anode. Sure doesn't look like a steel sheet.
I usually use plain steel bailing wire to connect the de-rusting object to the negative charger lead, by hanging the bailing wire over the lip, and clamping the charger clip over it.

Also, did you attempt to use a manual impact driver on that retaining screw?
I have successfully removed some screws that were similarly peened in place by using a small drill to drill each punched location, just barely bigger than the punch mark and just drilling deep enough to cut the deformed surface metal out, then hitting the screw with a hammer-impact driver. The downward impact of hitting the driver both keeps the bit in the slot and breaks free the friction of the bond.

 

[NastyNate]

Are you using an aluminum pan for the sacrificial anode? (Please don't tell me it is SS...)

You should also get your battery clamp out of the electrolyte. You are adding dissimilar metals and may ruin the clamp.

Its a dirty steel pan not SS. As for the clamp I read

"Clip the "negative" black lead of your battery charger to your iron tool to be cleaned and place it in the vat. Be certain that you have a nice tight grip on the tool with the black "negative" clip. Make sure the tool is fully covered by the water. So far I've not experienced a problem with allowing the black clip to be immersed in the solution. My clip remains intact and undamaged."

However I'm open to better suggestions!!! This is my first go at electrolysis, any input would be appreciated!

 

[NastyNate]

I was going to ask the same thing about the anode. Sure doesn't look like a steel sheet.
I usually use plain steel bailing wire to connect the de-rusting object to the negative charger lead, by hanging the bailing wire over the lip, and clamping the charger clip over it.

Also, did you attempt to use a manual impact driver on that retaining screw?
I have successfully removed some screws that were similarly peened in place by using a small drill to drill each punched location, just barely bigger than the punch mark and just drilling deep enough to cut the deformed surface metal out, then hitting the screw with a hammer-impact driver. The downward impact of hitting the driver both keeps the bit in the slot and breaks free the friction of the bond.

I have some bailing wire on hand and will switch over! Do you wrap it around the object a few times?
I do not have a manual impact driver, so no luck there.
I think the flash from the camera makes it look like aluminum. My plan was to use so rebar but don't have any on hand, i will pick some up early in the morning.

 

[CAOS]

The Reed I picked up today uses a hex key set screw to secure the collar to the lead screw. There are no punch marks. Came apart with little effort at all.

 

[metalhead212121]

subscribing... I have a vise I need to do this to along with a couple other things.

Dan

 

[NastyNate]

After three trips in my electrolysis (four hours each time) I finally have it close to bare metal. There are some small reminisce of paint still clinging on for life but a pick and brass dremel will take care of that. I used a couple of finishing pads made by 3m to remove the oxidation caused by the electrolysis process. I am pleased with the overall condition so far. Its really starting to show some of its age from the dings and dents on it but it still has that look "Ill still be around long after you die"
Heres some pictures.
For the "vise nuts" the stationary jaw without the main nut weighs 38 ponds by itself.
I included a few pictures with measurements as well.

 

[porphyre]

Its really starting to show some of its age from the dings and dents on it but it still has that look "Ill still be around long after you die"

It was most likely manufactured sometime in the '40's-50's.

It doesn't have the same mounting style as the older stationary vises, but also doesn't have the "OIL" hole and flattened handle knob of the newer mid-50's-1960's vises.

 

[NastyNate]

It was most likely manufactured sometime in the '40's-50's.

It doesn't have the same mounting style as the older stationary vises, but also doesn't have the "OIL" hole and flattened handle knob of the newer mid-50's-1960's vises.

Thanks for the information! I do some poking around but have found very little info on it. This is my first "true iron" vise and plan to keep it till I die.

 

[Outlawmws]

Looking good Nate; good progress!

 

[NastyNate]

Looking good Nate; good progress!

Thanks Outlawmws!

A few updates here. Finished up the electrolysis on the dynamic jaw and spent about an hour or so with the 3m pads again. Heres a few more shots
Dynamic jaw with parts weighs 36.6 pound