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6-50R wiring question

tomsmith

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Jul 12, 2009
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Hello,

When wiring up a 6-50R receptacle, do you wrap the copper ground wire around the green screw of the box or do you connect the copper wire to the ground prong and bypass the grounding screw altogether?

I've already hooked up the red and black hots but before I connect the copper, I was curious if you're supposed to make it touch the box..
 
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Gooch

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both.


strip out a section of wire(if insulated, if bare you can skip this) wrap that section around the screw and tighten up, then strip the end and wire on the device.

weather or not you NEED to take it to t box is dependent on your wiring method(romex, emt, etc.)
 
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tomsmith

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its a plastic box and as far as i can see, the screw connects to a strip of metal that runs down the back of the box.

what a pain, i thought i had tightened it enough (couldnt wrap it around) but as i was tightening the receptacle screws, the bare copper wire i had quarter wrapped around the screw pops out...

im going to revisit it tomorrow but the boxes dont leave a lot of room for manoevuring (sp)
 
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PT Doc

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Doesn't the outlet have 3 connections? 2 hots and ground, at least eviton does it this way.
 

TWX

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I did both. Yes, it's a PITA if you're using a single box instead of a dual box.

When I installed the receptacle in my current garage, I used a surface-mount since it's not out in the weather.
 

rburke65

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Be sure to wrap the wire around the screw in a clock wise direction! The same direction that you will be tightening the screw. The wire should not be coming out from under the screw.
 

mtne

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Unless it's awful tight and a single gang would be......... like a GFCI in a cut in box.

I suggest that anything like that in the box be pigtailed. That is to say a separate wire from the box ground screw, from the receptical and both of them twisted together with the ground under a wire nut. Same for the hot's as they're stranded, yes? Solid to stranded under a wirenut, solid to the receptical lugs. That shouldn't need to happen if the screw has a press plate to secure the wire. But if it's only a lug that can be wrapped, stranded is a pain.........
And to be fair, in a plastic box fed with romex or SO I'd be inclined to not bond to the silly metal strip in the back.
 

mrb

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guys this is a 50 amp receptacle, likely fed with #6 which is not going to get wrapped around a screw. And these receptacles have a screw clamp type terminal that can only take one wire. If its a plastic box just land the conductors on the receptacle and call it done. If its a metal box pigtail the grounds and use a ring terminal under the grounding screw on the box
 

TWX

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guys this is a 50 amp receptacle, likely fed with #6 which is not going to get wrapped around a screw. And these receptacles have a screw clamp type terminal that can only take one wire. If its a plastic box just land the conductors on the receptacle and call it done. If its a metal box pigtail the grounds and use a ring terminal under the grounding screw on the box

But you can use a #10 for ground. That will wrap around the ground screw.
 
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PT Doc

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Would a metal 4x4 box, with 6 50 receptacle, that is at the end of a dedicated circuit that was run with 6g wire for the hots and 8g for the ground, need to have a pigtailed ground that also gets anchored at the back of the metal box? THHN wire was run in aluminum flex conduit. I'm about to spark the compressor up so this question is timely. Thanks
 

Gooch

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Would a metal 4x4 box, with 6 50 receptacle, that is at the end of a dedicated circuit that was run with 6g wire for the hots and 8g for the ground, need to have a pigtailed ground that also gets anchored at the back of the metal box? THHN wire was run in aluminum flex conduit. I'm about to spark the compressor up so this question is timely. Thanks

was the flex and fittings 'grounding rated'? if not, yes, the box needs to be grounded.
 

oleguy

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Nov 22, 2009
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FMT or flexiable conduit over 6 feet in lenght can't be used for grounding.you will have to pigtail to metal box from the #8ground wire.
 

Norcal

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Would a metal 4x4 box, with 6 50 receptacle, that is at the end of a dedicated circuit that was run with 6g wire for the hots and 8g for the ground, need to have a pigtailed ground that also gets anchored at the back of the metal box? THHN wire was run in aluminum flex conduit. I'm about to spark the compressor up so this question is timely. Thanks

Yes the box needs to be bonded to the grounding conductor.
 

PT Doc

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Another question: for this circuit, I ran 6/3 romex from sub panel and once I punched through the basement wall and into the garage, I had a j box and from here ran the fmc with thhn 6g got both hots and 8g for the ground. In this j box should the grounds were wire nutted together. (unused neutral was just capped off with wire nut in this j box and in the sub panel as well.) Should the grounds have a pigtail also that gets connected to the square metalj box.

Sorry got the hi jack and thanks for the help.
 
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Norcal

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Another question: for this circuit, I ran 6/3 romex from sub panel and once I punched through the basement wall and into the garage, I had a j box and from here ran the fmc with thhn 6g got both hots and 8g for the ground. In this j box should the grounds were wire nutted together. (unused neutral was just capped off with wire nut in this j box and in the sub panel as well.) Should the grounds have a pigtail also that gets connected to the square metalj box.Sorry got the hi jack and thanks for the help.

Yes, a metal box always needs to be grounded.
 
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