My snow blower is hard stating. Once running it climbs up the snow at an angle and dies if the snow is heavy. It is a simplicity with a 6hp? engine. I was thinking if the compression is good the engine should be powerful enough. I was going to do a compression check when I get back to the house where the blower is (next week). It also clogs easily and really doesn't throw the snow far. I did the obvious things. I cleaned the carb spark is fine and I actually put in an elec igition (it's an old engine).
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no power snow blower
- Thread starter ng8264723
- Start date
If it's like the model I'm thinking of (early to mid '70's era?), you may need a diaphragm for the carb. I fixed one a few years ago, it had a diaphragm with a spring behind it, it was just stretched out. Real hard starting, no power, died under load. Cost about $3, 5 minute fix, runs great now. Not certain, but I think that was an older Tecumseh, probably 5 or 6 hp. I hadn't seen one like that before, but I'm no small engine guru, either.
Post some pics, especially one of the carb (left hand side).
Post some pics, especially one of the carb (left hand side).
A 6hp snow blower is not very powerful in my opinion especially in heavy snow. Take my opinion for what it is worth. (not much sometimes) I have used everything from an electric snow shovel to a 18 hp walk behind. 6hp would not get it done in Michigan along the lake shore with the lake effect snow we see at times. I live along a busy road as well so I see a lot of hard packed deep snow.
rlitman
Well-known member
Once running it climbs up the snow at an angle and dies if the snow is heavy.
Ok, I'm not commenting on any engine issues you may have, but are your shear pins broken?
If the auger is not spinning (and as the operator, you're not in a position to see this when it is running, you just have to go on faith), then it will still scoop light snow and blow it, but that will happen in heavy snow.
In my experience small engines either have compression and start or they dont. If it fires relatively easily your compression is fine.
If its an old machine it sounds tired. Get it serviced or plan on doing it during a weekend yourself. Check bushings/bearings, replace belts, purchase a carb rebuild kit, replace fuel line [it can get gummy or hard over time] and you'll be all set for another few years.
If its an old machine it sounds tired. Get it serviced or plan on doing it during a weekend yourself. Check bushings/bearings, replace belts, purchase a carb rebuild kit, replace fuel line [it can get gummy or hard over time] and you'll be all set for another few years.
Cliff McNeill
Well-known member
Old belt? New belt might help. Worked on my '65 Ariens 6HP. Also, I saw a video on youtube once where the auger gear key was missing. It was tight enough to turn and throw light stuff but under real load the auger would stop and chute would clog. The old ariens manual also suggested using spray oil or wax in the chute to help prevent clogging.
Cliff McNeill
Well-known member
or... the governor springs/linkage might be binding and the governor not doing its job of increasing throttle while under load.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
I am not a pro, but I have serviced a lot of small engines (B&S recent and old and various 2 strokes).
On older engines (like the "classic" 5hp horizontal shaft B&S or any engine without electronic ignition), the biggest problem is spark. The magnetos on those engines is not that strong. A dirty plug can be the difference between starting and not on a magneto ignition. Also magneto ignitions rely on the points which are typically behind the flywheel and almost never get serviced.
Most old B&S horizontal shaft engine can be upgraded to electronic ignition for less than $25 with a Magnetron upgrade kit.
Newer small engines (starting in the late 80s or early 90s) have electronic ignition. No points and the spark plug lasts forever.
The second most common issue with small engines is carburetion. The easiest and cheapest thing to check is the air filter. On 2 stroke engines, also check the muffler/spark arrestor. Then remove and disassemble the carb and check for dirt clogging something in the carb (don't forget to drain and clean out the gas tank) or a rubber part (diaphragm, fuel pump) that has a crack or pin hole or is just old.
On older engines (like the "classic" 5hp horizontal shaft B&S or any engine without electronic ignition), the biggest problem is spark. The magnetos on those engines is not that strong. A dirty plug can be the difference between starting and not on a magneto ignition. Also magneto ignitions rely on the points which are typically behind the flywheel and almost never get serviced.
Most old B&S horizontal shaft engine can be upgraded to electronic ignition for less than $25 with a Magnetron upgrade kit.
Newer small engines (starting in the late 80s or early 90s) have electronic ignition. No points and the spark plug lasts forever.
The second most common issue with small engines is carburetion. The easiest and cheapest thing to check is the air filter. On 2 stroke engines, also check the muffler/spark arrestor. Then remove and disassemble the carb and check for dirt clogging something in the carb (don't forget to drain and clean out the gas tank) or a rubber part (diaphragm, fuel pump) that has a crack or pin hole or is just old.
rlitman
Well-known member
The old ariens manual also suggested using spray oil or wax in the chute to help prevent clogging.
At the start of each season, I stand in front of the machine, look at what snow will contact from the mouth back, and spray every surface with silicone spray (CRC is my favorite). The augers, the chute, the impeller, etc.
Then I put the straw in the sprayer, and spray the cables and linkages, because it repels moisture too.
It helps a lot with the sticky and wet snow we get on Long Island.