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Need help with 45 year old floor

lars

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 7, 2011
Messages
45
Location
PA
First I would like to compliment everyone on this board for the knowledge and assistance they bring to the table. I have spent quite a few hours over the last few weeks reading and seeing what others have done and am very impressed.

That said, I bought a house this summer and now am in the process of moving into my first garage. I already spent some time painting and putting up a new wall and would like get something on the floor before going into winter. The garage will be a working garage; I plan on restoring a couple of garden tractors and will do some occasional fabrication work (mostly MIG welding and possibly running a plasma cutter). If space, time and money permit I may eventually get a lathe as well.

I inherited a 45 year old slab (12.5x25) that is in varying condition. Half of the floor is pretty smooth and clean. The other half has some pitting (most likely from road salt), rust stains, and remnants from some old paint. The attached pictures show everything after powerwashing.

Ideally, I would like a surface that is easy to clean, reflects a little light and has some resistance to spills. I like the look of epoxy but it by no means is a must-have for me. In fact, I have my concerns that it would not hold up well when welding. I very much like the look of stained concrete, and have considered a water-based stain followed by a densifier. I was hoping that I would then have the option to seal it with urethane or just leave it as is. However, I'm concerned with what I have things would become an ugly mess once a stain and clear goes on.

That said, what is my best option? Can I make what I have look nice by staining and sealing or am I better off covering it entirely? Will certain stains or colors hide better than others? Will grinding help to even out the rough areas or will it take out all the character I'm looking to get by staining?

Thanks for the help. I attached an overview pic; the large dark area is the area that has the most pitting and even when the floor is dry is usually much darker. Also attached are pictures of the large rust stains and the old paint. The camera made things a little more brown than in real life as well.
 

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  • Rust stains.jpg
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  • Old paint.jpg
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rickairmedic

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Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
4,165
Location
louisville ,Ky
Lars welcome to the Garage Journal . I will admit I wont be much help on your flooring as I have a 48 year old floor in my garage and also do quite a bit of fab work . I am really considering VCT with a clear coat of epoxy though and just tossing welding blankets on the floor when the need arises .


Rick
 

Edger

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Joined
May 18, 2011
Messages
623
Location
Melbourne Australia
Lars, I would grind it then epoxy coat with two primers and a topcoat.

Grinding is likely to expose some air holes so you want to fill those with two primer coats.

If you use a roll on system with good preparation it will be thin, strong and well adhered meaning that it will take a lot of treatment.

Go for light grey because it has excellent light reflectance and paint your walls in a very light, maybe white color, even high gloss. Don't expect to finish with the smoothest and most delicate epoxy, just get it down and give it full use.

You will enjoy it even if it stains/burns in small spots, it will always clean up well, you will have plenty of light in a small area and you will not have to redo it for a very long time.
 

AlphaGarage

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Apr 16, 2008
Messages
1,298
Location
Every Garage, AnyTown, USA
If the welding is done about 36" from the floor the slag usually cools off enough to not be a problem, although big hot chunks can leave brown burn marks. If you have a dedicated weld area using brown or dark colored flakes can mask subsequent marks.

Also use a good clear coat and view it as a sacrificial coat, as long as you monitor it you can clean it up and refresh it before it gets into the top coat.
 
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LegacyIndustrial

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Joined
Jun 7, 2010
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Location
deerfield, IL
I agree with Alpha, no worries unless you are cutting with a torch. Hot slag will melt the surface of epoxy. Grinding and welding from altitude won't make too much mess.

Your floor has an interesting patina, seal it and call it good. It will be one of a kind.
 
OP
L

lars

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 7, 2011
Messages
45
Location
PA
I agree with Alpha, no worries unless you are cutting with a torch. Hot slag will melt the surface of epoxy. Grinding and welding from altitude won't make too much mess.

Your floor has an interesting patina, seal it and call it good. It will be one of a kind.

I was thinking about the 356VOC for a sealer. What do I need to do for surface prep? I was thinking about renting a 7" grinder and using something like a Dewalt DW4759 abrasive wheel, as they're readily available, to knock the last of the paint off and get any really bad spots. Is this a reasonable option for 300 sq ft or do I need a diamond wheel?
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Joined
Jun 7, 2010
Messages
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Location
deerfield, IL
I was thinking about the 356VOC for a sealer. What do I need to do for surface prep? I was thinking about renting a 7" grinder and using something like a Dewalt DW4759 abrasive wheel, as they're readily available, to knock the last of the paint off and get any really bad spots. Is this a reasonable option for 300 sq ft or do I need a diamond wheel?

Lars:
Good choice.
However, if your going over raw concrete you really should put one coat of the HD015 sealer down as a primer for the HD356VOC. This will really give you a good floor.

Any grinding wheel that will knock the paint off is good. However, the diamond wheel will probably do all the work you need with some left over. A grit wheel will get eaten up pretty fast.
 
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