Bandsaw Blade for Metal
- Thread starter gmhill33
- Start date
ZTFab
Well-known member
Falcon67
Well-known member
You can probably cut aluminum OK with that, using some WD-40 as a cutting fluid but I don't expect you'll get very far with any ferrous metal at 600FPM. That kind of cutting wants speeds around 100 FPM.
buening
Well-known member
Could one use one of those variable speed controllers for routers, to turn down the speed?
I would go with a MK Morse M42 with a 0 rake in a 8-12 variable tooth. It is a Bi-metal blade that should last you a long time and wont cost an arm and a leg. They are made in Canton, OH so you should be able to find someone that would sell one to you.
Could one use one of those variable speed controllers for routers, to turn down the speed?
No. They turn down torque as well as speed. The blade just stops when it bites into the metal.
buening
Well-known member
I wondered about that. Thanks for the confirmation
willymakeit
Well-known member
Does your saw have step pulleys that can be changed ? I bought an old Jet wood/metal 14'' and it has step pulley's which are conveinent.
Zeke
Well-known member
I've looked into buying various sized pulleys to gear down a floor model bandsaw. Ones in the 12" variety can cost a hundred bones. I bought a jack shaft instead. There's a another name for jackshaft in the world of machinery - pillow block.
And some call them mandrels. If you see one at a garage sale, grab it even if you don't have a use for it at the moment. You will.
And some call them mandrels. If you see one at a garage sale, grab it even if you don't have a use for it at the moment. You will.
I've looked into buying various sized pulleys to gear down a floor model bandsaw. Ones in the 12" variety can cost a hundred bones. I bought a jack shaft instead. There's a another name for jackshaft in the world of machinery - pillow block.
And some call them mandrels. If you see one at a garage sale, grab it even if you don't have a use for it at the moment. You will.
Actually, the "pillow blocks" are the (little) chunks of metal (usually) with the bearings/bushings in them.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ecatalog/N-1z0qxpv/Ntt-pillow+block
Or various "mounted bearings" (bearings with a housing that you can bolt or otherwise attach to a machine/device without having to install the bearing itself -into- the machine/device):
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/mounted-bearings/ecatalog/N-ap3?fromViewAll=true&Pid=search
Take two pillow blocks, run a shaft through them, and put a pulley/sheave in between the two pillow blocks and you have a handy 'thingy'.
Take your shaft and mount two pulleys/sheaves of differing diameters onto that shaft and install belts between the original motor/engine and the original 'output' pulley/sheave and you have added some possible speed reduction or increase (depending on which way you arrange the connections).
Handy? Sure.
But the 'bearing in a housing' thing is the pillow block.
And to the OP, the blade feet/minute is different for cutting wood and for cutting different metals. Put even a 'good' metal-cutting bandsaw blade into a 'standard' wood-cutting bandsaw and attempting to cut (some) metals will just ruin the blade and possibly the saw.
Use the 'right' tool(s) for the job.
Falcon67
Well-known member
The HF manual for the 14" saw shows what looks like 5 step shivs on the motor and on a jackshaft above that, with a single pulley running the lower blade wheel.
>Could one use one of those variable speed controllers for routers, to turn down the speed?
What Jack said. If you convert it to a 3 phase motor and run a VFD to drive the motor, then yes.
Here's one guy that did a conversion of another type:
http://public.fotki.com/Rbertalotto/machine_tool/bandsaw-wood-to-met/
Related info here:
http://www.millerwelds.com/resource...ad.php?12615-Wood-to-Metal-Bandsaw-conversion
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ForceFed70
Well-known member
I tried getting a metal cutting blade and it didn't work worth ****. Blade speed is way too high. If I had a nice bandsaw, I'd look at options... but with my $159 cheapie it's just not worth it.
I might have to get a chop saw.And to the OP, the blade feet/minute is different for cutting wood and for cutting different metals. Put even a 'good' metal-cutting bandsaw blade into a 'standard' wood-cutting bandsaw and attempting to cut (some) metals will just ruin the blade and possibly the saw.
Use the 'right' tool(s) for the job.
thanks for the info.
Gary
Thanks for the info and the links. I may try to find a "DC Tread Mill Motor" and a Controller or I might just get a chop saw.
Gary
I have a wood-cutting bandsaw, and also a carbide tipped cut-off saw. But if you want bandsaw capability, consider getting a portaband and a table-type base for it. I recently got one (second-hand saw, Swag table with miter guide), and I'm surprised how much I've been using it. Attaches to a vise. Easy to store on a shelf.
(Apologies if you've seen the pictures before.)
(Apologies if you've seen the pictures before.)
I have a wood-cutting bandsaw, and also a carbide tipped cut-off saw. But if you want bandsaw capability, consider getting a portaband and a table-type base for it. I recently got one (second-hand saw, Swag table with miter guide), and I'm surprised how much I've been using it. Attaches to a vise. Easy to store on a shelf.
(Apologies if you've seen the pictures before.)
Thanks Jack for the info and the pics. Where do you get the table type base?
Gary
Swag Offroad.
http://www.swagoffroad.com/Porta_band_Product.html
They also have one that's free-standing.
http://www.swagoffroad.com/Porta_band_Product.html
They also have one that's free-standing.
buening
Well-known member
Jack, does the whole portaband saw hang from that plate by just a screw or two??