Harbor Freight ratchets and sockets

[e30bradley]

I have broken countless HF sockets.. I don't even touch them anymore. Defiantly g with US made craftsman or get something better used from the classified section. Punching an engine block isn't fun.. Thats what I did twice in a row when my HF sockets broke.

 

[cglasgow]

The one thing I do wonder is whether or not the HF sockets are "flank" drive

Perhaps a bit late to be jumping in, but yes, they are. In fact I recently tested for myself how strong they might be, and in the course of my testing I found that they contact the fastener a little farther away from the corner than do Craftsman. (Well, 10-year-old Craftsman).

The test I ran was to put a grade 8 5/16" bolt in a vise, drop a washer on it, spin a grade 8 nut on it, then use a 1/2" socket (3/8" drive, 6-point) on a 3/8"-1/2" adapter on a 1/2" drive, 25" long breaker bar to tighten it down until something broke. With both the CM and HF, the nut stripped before any part of the tool chain broke. I noticed the difference in the contact points when I inspected the nuts.

So based on my very limited sample of one example of each, I concluded that both are sufficiently strong, and the HF has a slight edge in contact geometry.

 

[stickshift]

Perhaps a bit late to be jumping in, but yes, they are. In fact I recently tested for myself how strong they might be, and in the course of my testing I found that they contact the fastener a little farther away from the corner than do Craftsman. (Well, 10-year-old Craftsman).

The test I ran was to put a grade 8 5/16" bolt in a vise, drop a washer on it, spin a nut on it, then use a 1/2" socket (3/8" drive, 6-point) on a 3/8"-1/2" adapter on a 1/2" drive, 25" long breaker bar to tighten it down until something broke. With both the CM and HF, the nut stripped before any part of the tool chain broke. I noticed the difference in the contact points when I inspected the nuts.

So based on my very limited sample of one example of each, I concluded that both are sufficiently strong, and the HF has a slight edge in contact geometry.

Cool test.

 

[jethro29]

Craftsman would be the best choice. USA made, best quality for the price, easiest warranty in the tool world and probably all you would ever need. Take care of them and they last a lifetime unless you rarely break one then warranty it. Its a matter of time before someone suggests snapon, just ignore that person.

do you work for sears?or are you from another planet?you were kidding right?

 

[blarf]

I have broken countless HF sockets.. I don't even touch them anymore. Defiantly g with US made craftsman or get something better used from the classified section. Punching an engine block isn't fun.. Thats what I did twice in a row when my HF sockets broke.

None of the Danaher stuff is really worth crowing about (but I still have my doubts, for whatever reason, that HF sockets are all that great). I have some G1, GK, and now this G2 Craftsman stuff (plus some USA K-D). The paint has definitely rotted off the inside of most of them showing the telltale yellow nickel plating and some rust underneath. Even new, this G2 stuff is probably the worst with its rough edges, but hey it's CHEAP and comes with a hassle free warranty.

If I had to save every penny the next step up from Craftsman I'd be looking for new-old-stock premium, *USA* stuff (K-D, Allen, Williams, Kobalt, etc) that pops up on eBay from time to time (or maybe some gently used stuff from the GJ classifieds).

I purposefully omit companies like Proto or Armstrong because Stanley and Danaher have really perfected churning out American made ****, gutting quality brands, shipping production overseas, and being deceptive about it. Why reward that kind of behavior?

BTW, stickshift, the one thing I'd look for at HF would be some nice socket rails. I like my Craftsman rigid plastic rails (more than the cheapie metal rails you can find all over the place), but I think you should be able to find something suitable at HF for pennies on the dollar.

 

[blarf]

Perhaps a bit late to be jumping in, but yes, they are. In fact I recently tested for myself how strong they might be, and in the course of my testing I found that they contact the fastener a little farther away from the corner than do Craftsman. (Well, 10-year-old Craftsman).

The test I ran was to put a grade 8 5/16" bolt in a vise, drop a washer on it, spin a nut on it, then use a 1/2" socket (3/8" drive, 6-point) on a 3/8"-1/2" adapter on a 1/2" drive, 25" long breaker bar to tighten it down until something broke. With both the CM and HF, the nut stripped before any part of the tool chain broke. I noticed the difference in the contact points when I inspected the nuts.

So based on my very limited sample of one example of each, I concluded that both are sufficiently strong, and the HF has a slight edge in contact geometry.

Good to know.

 

[kippieland]

Here my two cents...if you haven't gotten enough. I haved use HF sockets and they are fine for average guys. I think they are level with Craftsman (both entry level stuff.) I personally went with Craftsman because they are American made, very easy to return, and there are Sears everywhere. I actually hate both stores....they both have some great things and some that are horrible! You have to do your research for either store and customer service ***** at both of them.

I do like the HF heavy duty ratchet and would use that over the Craftsman. Also, if you feel the need to try Snap-on stuff, try ebay, they have some good quality used stuff. Snap-on and other truck brands are much better then either of these but the price for new for an average DIY'er is retarded! I actually know a lot of professional mechanics that use Craftsman because they don't want to wait for the truck and they a Craftsman store close for returns. Good luck!

 

[Shadowdog500]

HF would probably be OK but I would probably get Craftman.

If I were starting over with no tools I would probably get a kit like the one shown below from Crafstman. I got a set like that to throw in my motorhome and with the addition of torque wrenches and some other hand tools it is a pretty good set of tools. The molded drawers also help to keep everything organized.

Chris

 

[cglasgow]

Good to know.

Forgot to mention -- the nut was also grade 8 (just edited the original post to reflect that).

Also, to stickshift: as been mentioned here before, generally speaking the HF stuff from Taiwan is usually pretty good, the stuff from China less so, and the stuff from India is very questionable.

 

[stickshift]

Also, to stickshift: as been mentioned here before, generally speaking the HF stuff from Taiwan is usually pretty good, the stuff from China less so, and the stuff from India is very questionable.

Yep, will keep an eye out for that, thanks.

 

[ishiboo]

Why is it that a new wrencher is looking for a first basic tool set and names two affordable good quality brands they are considering to use at home and wants the opinions of GJ members and he gets suggestions to not buy the affordable quality brands he has his eye on but rather he should spend a huge sum more to buy the upper end most expensive brands that are available that would perform just as good as his original choices?
Excuse the long run on sentence, but it just doesnt make any sense.

Is this your first day here?

 

[Grogan14]

Why is it that a new wrencher is looking for a first basic tool set and names two affordable good quality brands they are considering to use at home and wants the opinions of GJ members and he gets suggestions to not buy the affordable quality brands he has his eye on but rather he should spend a huge sum more to buy the upper end most expensive brands that are available that would perform just as good as his original choices?
Excuse the long run on sentence, but it just doesnt make any sense.

The level of tool-snobbery is very high on this site, as it is on most job sites. Unfortunately, young guns often fall prey to it, much to the detriment of their bank accounts. Such is life, I'm afraid.

 

[tbobbo]

I vote craftsman, i have some that I use at work. They are okay for pro use. I bought some sockets and ratchets at HF, the pittsburg pro stuff. I got 12 point sockets, and they round off bolts in a hurry. I bought 12 points cause this is for home use, and I wanted to have the most flexability I could get. That said, I dont mind the ratchets to much at all. They are the green handle chrome ones. I really like the swivel head ratchet I bought there though. It was like 13 bucks and is a steel for that price. I have snap on ratchets for work, and I have the swivel head from snap on. For the price difference its a must have. It will never replace the snap on, but it does great for the price. I vote HF ratchets and craftsman sockets!

 

[tbobbo]

That said I know both will work for home use.........I would do some research and see what will work better. You sound worried about rounded fasteners, (smart) I would also look into cheaper impact sockets to start with. That is what I use for everyday at work. I know they dont have the clearance, but that is a issue with me about once in four months. The impacts last so much longer than chrome. I have bought all grey pneumatic impact sockets in all sizes. They are cheap, (not HF cheap) they last a long time, and they dont round fasteners! Guys at work are always rounding bolts with their sockets, and they just come and get mine now. I have gearwrench chrome sockets that never get used now unless I have a clearance issue, and that hardley ever happens. Grey Pnuematic is sold all over our area so service is not a issue here. Could be different for you. Tooltopia has good prices on them

 

[diesel research]

He is just doing brakes/tires/oil on a honda. Specifically stated nothing that takes 1hr or more.

Don't worry about the sockets until you find a way to jack up your car, drain/fill your oil, remove filters, etc. Sure you need a socket for your drain plug and caliper bolts and lug nuts, but there are plenty of other equally important things to own like a blow torch, drain pan, jack, impact screw driver, torque wrench(es), jackstands, etc.

 

[Coach James]

If I could get good condition used SnapOn, Wright etc at close to C-man, HF prices, I would buy it. If not I would buy C-man because it is USA made. If that wasn't important to me, I would have no qualms with using HF sockets and ratchets.

I recently put new front brakes on my van using a C-man ratchet and C-man sockets and a C-man hex bit. Last week I put a new wheel hub on my car and among the tools I used were a HF impact socket and a HF long pattern wrench. I fixed a seatbelt on my van yesterday using a C-man socket and HF swivel head ratchet.

For routine maintenance, C-man and HF sockets and ratchets are fine.

Coach

 

[e30bradley]

BTW, stickshift, the one thing I'd look for at HF would be some nice socket rails. I like my Craftsman rigid plastic rails (more than the cheapie metal rails you can find all over the place), but I think you should be able to find something suitable at HF for pennies on the dollar.

DO NOT get the $1 HF metal socket rails, they are garbage. I got 15 of em to realize they where a complete waste of money.. Get their plastic ones, a set of 3 is like 6 bucks and they are holding up fine after a few months.

 

[stickshift]

He is just doing brakes/tires/oil on a honda. Specifically stated nothing that takes 1hr or more.

Don't worry about the sockets until you find a way to jack up your car, drain/fill your oil, remove filters, etc. Sure you need a socket for your drain plug and caliper bolts and lug nuts, but there are plenty of other equally important things to own like a blow torch, drain pan, jack, impact screw driver, torque wrench(es), jackstands, etc.

Yep. My first post when joining GJ a few days ago was about which socket set to buy. Based on your posts and those of others, I haven't bought any socket sets yet (excluding a Craftsman 3/8" 11pc metric set for $5), but have bought a jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, 1/2" breaker bar, and a 1/2" torque wrench.

I'm sure this will sound terribly newbish, but what would I need an impact screwdriver for? I have regular screwdrivers and a ratcheting screwdriver with various bits.

 

[cglasgow]

I'm sure this will sound terribly newbish, but what would I need an impact screwdriver for? I have regular screwdrivers and a ratcheting screwdriver with various bits.

Have you ever had the experience where you can't get a screw to turn, and the harder you try the more the screwdriver wants to climb out of the screw head? That's when you'd reach for an impact screwdriver.

 

[diesel research]

Yep. My first post when joining GJ a few days ago was about which socket set to buy. Based on your posts and those of others, I haven't bought any socket sets yet (excluding a Craftsman 3/8" 11pc metric set for $5), but have bought a jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, 1/2" breaker bar, and a 1/2" torque wrench.

I'm sure this will sound terribly newbish, but what would I need an impact screwdriver for? I have regular screwdrivers and a ratcheting screwdriver with various bits.

It is to remove the brake rotor screw on your honda.

You smack the end with a hammer. The shock keeps the bit from rounding out and at the same time forces the screw to turn, plus the shock frees them up. They rust and round out pretty easy.

Find a single impact socket that fits your lugnut and get a 24" breaker from harbor freight or I prefer the advance auto one (it flexes less) The impact socket is stronger, watch out to make sure it fits your rim though, some are too fat.

Need some kind of ratchet and what ever bit socket your caliper requires. Plus a blow torch and a bleeder wrench. The torch is very cheap insurance, even better if it uses a more expensive yellow MAPP gas cylinder.

 

[cglasgow]

It is to remove the brake rotor screw on your honda.

Yep -- that'd be a perfect example of when you'd want one!

 

[stickshift]

Have you ever had the experience where you can't get a screw to turn, and the harder you try the more the screwdriver wants to climb out of the screw head? That's when you'd reach for an impact screwdriver.

Got it, thanks. And yes, I've had that experience and would have to lean into the screwdriver to prevent it from climbing out and rounding the screw head.

It is to remove the brake rotor screw on your honda.

You smack the end with a hammer. The shock keeps the bit from rounding out and at the same time forces the screw to turn, plus the shock frees them up. They rust and round out pretty easy.

Makes sense, thanks. I guess this makes me wonder if I should be considering an impact wrench. Or would an impact screwdriver and breaker bars be sufficient to free up fasteners that need removal for routine maintenance on one car? The downside of an impact wrench is I'd have to go cordless given where I'll be wrenching, and that seems pricey to get a decent cordless impact+battery+charger, plus the noise might draw unwanted attention.

Find a single impact socket that fits your lugnut and get a 24" breaker from harbor freight or I prefer the advance auto one (it flexes less) The impact socket is stronger, watch out to make sure it fits your rim though, some are too fat.

I picked up a 1/2" drive 25" long breaker bar earlier today. The impact socket for my lugnuts is moving to the top of my tool purchase list!

Need some kind of ratchet and what ever bit socket your caliper requires. Plus a blow torch and a bleeder wrench. The torch is very cheap insurance, even better if it uses a more expensive yellow MAPP gas cylinder.

What's the blow torch for? To heat up fasteners prior to loosening?

 

[plinker]

What's the blow torch for? To heat up fasteners prior to loosening?

Yep, a MAPP torch can come in handy when dealing with frozen/rusty fasteners.

An impact driver is most useful for frozen screws( phillips, slotted, hex, torx ete..). I have had some sucess using it on various 6pt nuts/bolts.

 

[diesel research]

What's the blow torch for? To heat up fasteners prior to loosening?

YES, if you do it BEFORE you don't end up with as many broken bolts. In this video they are heating it too hot, doesn't need too much heat. You can still see how a candle or crayon can reduce headaches.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/cTRUXRv2HFs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

This video shows the same thing. Not good for lug studs w/o extreme caution due to internal tire fires or burning hub grease.

A delicate procedure that you have to keep an eye on anything else that might be damaged by heat, like oil seals, wires, paint, plastics. If you aren't SURE, ask around or don't do it.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/KwKHSvKfnHI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

When you can't heat and know several days in advance, you can spray the area with lubricants. They don't work so well if you spray and try to remove within 30 seconds, the longer they have to soak, the better they work.


http://www.kanolabs.com/penLub.html

 

[stickshift]

YES, if you do it BEFORE you don't end up with as many broken bolts. In this video they are heating it too hot, doesn't need too much heat. You can still see how a candle or crayon can reduce headaches.

This video shows the same thing. Not good for lug studs w/o extreme caution due to internal tire fires or burning hub grease.

A delicate procedure that you have to keep an eye on anything else that might be damaged by heat, like oil seals, wires, paint, plastics. If you aren't SURE, ask around or don't do it.

When you can't heat and know several days in advance, you can spray the area with lubricants. They don't work so well if you spray and try to remove within 30 seconds, the longer they have to soak, the better they work.

Very cool. Would a heat gun get stuck fasteners hot enough to make a difference? Not asking for auto applications as I wouldn't have A/C power there, but more for indoor use with the occasional stuck fastener.

 

[blarf]

Makes sense, thanks. I guess this makes me wonder if I should be considering an impact wrench. Or would an impact screwdriver and breaker bars be sufficient to free up fasteners that need removal for routine maintenance on one car? The downside of an impact wrench is I'd have to go cordless given where I'll be wrenching, and that seems pricey to get a decent cordless impact+battery+charger, plus the noise might draw unwanted attention.

Impact stuff is nice, but definitely not something you'd NEED unless you live in the rust belt. Cordless stuff is bulkier and weaker than than air powered stuff.

I picked up a 1/2" drive 25" long breaker bar earlier today. The impact socket for my lugnuts is moving to the top of my tool purchase list!

Unless you plan on taking your car to a shop that overtightens stuff by a ridiculous amount, or you plan on buying an impact gun... just get a chrome socket and be done with it.

What's the blow torch for? To heat up fasteners prior to loosening?

Yes, but, again, unless you live in the rust belt I just don't see it being that necessary (or that much of a good idea) for brake work. Brake fluid is a.) mostly alcohol and b.) not something you want to boil in the first place.

If Honda really uses Phillips screws for the rotors (yuck) invest in a *good* Phillips screwdriver.

 

[Cobra6]

If not I would buy C-man because it is USA made. If that wasn't important to me, I would have no qualms with using HF sockets and ratchets.

Coach

I think they are level with Craftsman (both entry level stuff.) I personally went with Craftsman because they are American made, very easy to return, and there are Sears everywhere.

OK - not picking on these two guys - but why does everyone seem to think that Craftsman is made in USA? I saw that four or five times on this post.
Maybe their expensive Pro-Series, but you can buy Snap On for that price. Did Craftsman go back to USA - made? All I have seen lately is from Taiwan.
Did I miss something? Help me out if I did.
I would much rather go with Husky from Home Depot or Kobalt at Lowes (both like vintage Craftsman - unless they have changed) than some of the new Craftsman stuff - especially for the $$$.

And....... does someone have the link on GJ with the Craftsman vs. HF torque wrench/ratchet showdown where the HF won in almost every test?

 

[blarf]

OK - not picking on these two guys - but why does everyone seem to think that Craftsman is made in USA? I saw that four or five times on this post.

Except for the "Craftsman Evolv" brand and some of the more creative ratchets, both the sockets and ratchets have been made stateside for ages and still are. That doesn't guarantee quality, however.

And....... does someone have the link on GJ with the Craftsman vs. HF torque wrench/ratchet showdown where the HF won in almost every test?

I put a PDF of it here:

http://sonic.net/~alexz/Ratchet shootout.pdf

So, anyhow. I took some pictures. Five sockets. Three Danaher USA (2x Craftsman G2; 1x K-D), one Hazet 600 series, and one S-K from 2008. Any guesses which is which?

Hint: there will be more S-K sockets in my future and less, if any, Danaher ****.

I really don't think it's being snobbish to want a socket that won't rust easily and doesn't look as if it was made by Ray Charles. IMO cheap equates to value only if the quality is there. S-K and Wright are quite a bit more pricey than Craftsman (for the socket sets this works out to a ~$30 premium, it's much more for the wrenches) but still hardly the cost of the truck brands or premium Euro brands.

 

[tpolley]

here's my two cents:

i have the harbor freight 301 piece set. i use them on the weekends. everything from the '93 f250 to my push mowers to my riding mowers to my foreman. their tools are fine. the ONLY problem i have with them is they skip some common sizes and they don't offer the filler sizes separate. especially in the impact swivels. sure they sell individual sockets and pro screw drivers now but they don't offer the sizes that are left out in the kits.

i was supprised with their screwdrivers. the cheap black handles and the pro orange and green handle screw drivers are actually pretty nice.

i can't vouch for the new professional pliers. thier orange handle pliers are sh*t. the red handle professional pliers, i only recently bought a pair of needle nose. i haven't used them enough to know if they'll hold up.

i don't believe these guys that break a lot of harbor freight sockets.

 

[Cobra6]

Except for the "Craftsman Evolv" brand and some of the more creative ratchets, both the sockets and ratchets have been made stateside for ages and still are. That doesn't guarantee quality, however.

I put a PDF of it here:

http://sonic.net/~alexz/Ratchet shootout.pdf

Thanks for that - and I appreciate the .pdf - good info

 

[diesel research]

Yes, but, again, unless you live in the rust belt I just don't see it being that necessary (or that much of a good idea) for brake work. Brake fluid is a.) mostly alcohol and b.) not something you want to boil in the first place.

If Honda really uses Phillips screws for the rotors (yuck) invest in a *good* Phillips screwdriver.

You live in california or the south west huh?

I can say that rust/aluminum corrosion is still a concern here in texas, you never know when it pops up.

You never know when locktite pops up. I have no idea how red locktite has creeped so many places. The OE certainly didn't do it. Ok maybe a few did, most didn't.

Brake fluid is specifically designed for hot brakes. Don't believe rusted bleeder valves exist? Do a poll on this site. Many will even say be prepared to replace the caliper (another place where seized or locktited fasteners seem to po up)...

Those phillips or JIS or whatever rotor screws are nothing to scoff at either. A good screw driver? Only if it is a wera chiseldriver and being beat on with a nice ball peen. May even need 2 ball peens.


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/YxQk7Pz_vfc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[blarf]

You live in california or the south west huh?

I live in California, near the coast. So, yeah, I've had some cars that were pretty well rotted away but it's not near as bad as in areas where they salt the roads. So, no, I haven't snapped or rounded off any bleeder screws or caliper mounting bolts. Hell I've been lucky and haven't even stripped one of those stupid hex retaining bolts on the Bimmer.

If it's my car, I'd want to make sure it doesn't get to the point of frozen fasteners (make sure the rubber boots are all in place, that you've got anti-seize in the right places, that you're regularly flushing the brake fluid, greasing the sliding pins if applicable, etc).

That said, yeah, I know brake fluid isn't particularly flammable, but I'd still rather not deal with hot fluid in a confined space.

 

[diesel research]

I live in California, near the coast. So, yeah, I've had some cars that were pretty well rotted away but it's not near as bad as in areas where they salt the roads. So, no, I haven't snapped or rounded off any bleeder screws or caliper mounting bolts. Hell I've been lucky and haven't even stripped one of those stupid hex retaining bolts on the Bimmer.

If it's my car, I'd want to make sure it doesn't get to the point of frozen fasteners (make sure the rubber boots are all in place, that you've got anti-seize in the right places, that you're regularly flushing the brake fluid, greasing the sliding pins if applicable, etc).

That said, yeah, I know brake fluid isn't particularly flammable, but I'd still rather not deal with hot fluid in a confined space.

Knew a few mechanics from So-cal, they all said "I had no clue! I never had to fight like this just to remove a bolt before" (except crank pulley bolts)

Ya, preventing it in the future is a good thing and somewhere I think I mentioned using antiseize and lube, but since he hasn't maintained it before, and it is used (atleast somewhat) we have to keep the possibility in mind that some type of oxidation has already occurred.

Ok, no dispute hot brake fluid can be bad.

Having said that, the I end up using big hammers, oxy-acetylene, impacts, prybars, extractors, and air hammers on a daily basis to fight corrosion. It is an unfortunate occurrence, and a mutli-billion dollar a year industry. It is worse for my industry since vehicles travel the whole country and get put away wet, but it is a fact of life for many cars too. Nearly everything I work on gives me some kind of grief due to corrosion, even aluminum and stainless. Hell even steel into plastic. Whether it is seized fittings, corroded wires, broken/seized/rounded bolts, rusted out components (causing something to need to be replaced in the first place).

I owe my livelihood to corrosion, yet it is pretty much my single cause of stress/headache/injury. Could not imagine even having a job if it wasn't for that.

 

[blarf]

BTW, vaguely on-topic can anyone recommend a good Honda parts source?

 

[ajchien]

BTW, vaguely on-topic can anyone recommend a good Honda parts source?

I use:
H and A accessories

 

[Notwerk]

BTW, vaguely on-topic can anyone recommend a good Honda parts source?

majestic and college hills Honda.

 

[blarf]

DO NOT get the $1 HF metal socket rails, they are garbage. I got 15 of em to realize they where a complete waste of money.. Get their plastic ones, a set of 3 is like 6 bucks and they are holding up fine after a few months.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-14-38-and-12-socket-rail-set-68101.html

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00941849000P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3

http://www.wrighttool.com/pub/defau...ge&oid={D9BD846D-FF1F-11D3-8B5D-00A0C942294E}

Or "Easy-Slide Clip Rail Socket Holders" from McMaster Carr (Wright?).

All the same.

Are the way to go. I have a few of the "we fucked up here's $5" coupons so I'll probably get the rails individually. The studs are interchangeable between them. I guess VIM makes the USA made ones.

 

[Cobra6]

Except for the "Craftsman Evolv" brand and some of the more creative ratchets, both the sockets and ratchets have been made stateside for ages and still are. That doesn't guarantee quality, however.

OK - look here - Craftsman is not made in the USA -

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126584

 

[glockman]

I would suggest the HF impact sockets. I have used the snot out of my three sets (metric and standard Deep and metric wobble). You can't touch a set that goes form 13mm to 36mm for $25 from any other manufacturer. I have been using the metric set for a few years now with no issues.

 

[DARKSCOPE001]

not sure if you have made your verdict yet but I vote for C-man sockets. (if they havent started making them in china) little bastards, looks like they are going to make everything over seas if they could. But no most sockets dont pose a risk of rounding off a nut unless you get into really small stuff like less than 1/4" im sure im late to the table with that.


Good luck
Sean Scott