12v or 18v impact driver for DIY automotive work

[stickshift]

I have a somewhat immediate need for a drill for a quick job (and just moved to a new town and can't simply borrow a drill), and figured that given the Cyber Monday and other holiday deals, it would be a good time to pick up a combo set that includes a drill/driver and impact driver, rather than just buying a drill and having to worry about battery compatibility and such down the line when I'm looking for an impact. Plus the combos seem like better value than buying drill and impact separately.

The impact would mostly be for relatively non-complex DIY auto work on one car. The particular set I'm looking at is one Stuey posted: Makita 12v 4 tool combo. The compact circular saw is a nice addition, having made horribly jagged cuts with a hacksaw , but not something I'd have regular use for.

I don't mind breaking nuts loose and have 1/2" and 3/8" breaker bars, but having the ability to quickly drive out (and back in) fasteners is appealing. Plus, if a 12v is quieter than a higher torque 18v, that's a plus for my use. And it seems like the 12v impacts are a little smaller and potentially easier to fit into tight spots for automotive work.

But if the extra torque of an 18v is more useful for automotive work even if one has, and is happy to use, breaker bars, I might hunt around for a deal on an 18v combo set instead.

 

[dwm]

In the end you may wind up with both. The 12V isn't going to relegate your breaker bars to the collector's bin. They're great for small fasteners but won't remove lug nuts/bolts, suspension parts, brake calipers, etc.

At home I rarely use impact drivers on my cars, except when removing small fasteners. A 12V shines there since it's small and light. My lug nuts are always removed by hand, and all fasteners are torqued by hand (using a torque wrench). The 12V impact driver just lets me get the nanny stuff out of my way to get to the real work.

 

[BLACK DEATH]

I have the dewalt 12 volt Max & the Milwaukee M18. Both Ave a drill & impact driver. I got the dewalt used for $100 & Milwaukee new for $200. I think the smaller they are the better for tighter spots. I think that makita set is a killer deal. You can also buy a 3/8" square impact driver from makita in the 12 volts. Puts out more torque than the 1/4" impact driver. I think they just sell the tool or u can find it on the net for just the tool since ull have 2 batteries already. I don't u will go wrong with that set for light automotive work as mu dewalt did OK taking a front end body off of a wrecked truck. Or buy a big & small setup.

 

[shampoop]

18v. I have one and have never wished I had the 12v instead. Plus the 18v is more versatile around the house.

 

[purplezr2]

I have an M18 3/8 Drive Milwaukee and love it, just remember its no half inch, I use is alot when pulling down front ends and doing engine/****** work when they are out of the car.

 

[Jack Olsen]

I can see getting an impact wrench (go for 24V in that case, or corded, or pneumatic).

But I don't think I've ever used an impact driver on a car.

 

[Danglerb]

If you just need a drill, buy a drill, plenty decent ones are DIRT cheap, like less than $20 at HF. Pre buying tools that are rapidly improving and dropping in price is a waste.

 

[BLACK DEATH]

I have an M18 3/8 Drive Milwaukee and love it, just remember its no half inch, I use is alot when pulling down front ends and doing engine/****** work when they are out of the car.

Purplezr2... how do you like that 3/8" impact for the m18 line? I want to get it & the 1/2" high torque m18. It would be nice to get the smaller 1/2" impact but it doesn't put out too much more than the 3/8" to justify getting it.

 

[DHCrocks]

A 12v is a good replacement for an air ratchet. I have a Bosch 12v impactor and use it on small fasteners, it's a real time saver and is more convenient then an air tool. But it won't handle larger stuff. I'm glad I got it, it has been worth it IMO. a 18v I don't have and don't feel the need for one, I'll use the the pnumatic gun if it need be. the 12v stuff is perfect for most uses since it's so small and can get into tight spots.

 

[Greatbear]

A small impact driver works wonders with trim screws, especially around wheel openings and rocker panels on older rides. The impacting action helps break loose the hold of rust and corrosion without stripping the heads out in most cases. I use adapters in my Bosch (12 and 18V) impact drivers with 1/4" hex chucks to fit 1/4, 3/8 and even 1/2" drive sockets. I bought a 12V DeWalt 3/8" impact wrench to squeeze into small areas, this little beastie has been used on everything from body hardware, suspension bolts and upper engine fasteners lately. The 1/2" Bosch 18V I got early in the year is used almost exclusively in place of the IR pneumatic I normally use. It will handle almost anything I throw at it, including 36mm axle nuts, crank pulley bolt removals and crusty suspension bolts.

I just picked up a Milwaukee 12v 3/8" ratchet. I can leave the pneumatics mostly in the drawers from now on.

 

[stickshift]

A small impact driver works wonders with trim screws, especially around wheel openings and rocker panels on older rides. The impacting action helps break loose the hold of rust and corrosion without stripping the heads out in most cases. I use adapters in my Bosch (12 and 18V) impact drivers with 1/4" hex chucks to fit 1/4, 3/8 and even 1/2" drive sockets. I bought a 12V DeWalt 3/8" impact wrench to squeeze into small areas, this little beastie has been used on everything from body hardware, suspension bolts and upper engine fasteners lately.

What's the functional difference between a 12v impact driver and a 12v 3/8" impact wrench, other than you don't need a 1/4" hex to 3/8" square drive adapter? I suppose the use of adapters cuts down on the torque delivered to the socket?

 

[stickshift]

If you just need a drill, buy a drill, plenty decent ones are DIRT cheap, like less than $20 at HF. Pre buying tools that are rapidly improving and dropping in price is a waste.

Wait a second, isn't GJ supposed to talk people into buying tools?

I'm a total newb to impact drivers - are these things improving rapidly enough that in a year's time, we'll see better impacts at similar prices (assuming constant value currency (yes, I know, a joke in a fiat world))?

 

[gsport]

i've been reading so much about these impacts that i went out friday and bought a 18volt li-ion Makita combo pack, drill driver and impact driver. havn't really used it yet, but i got one when i'm ready.... lol, the impact is 1,280 in-lbs max torque

 

[rayh91]

I have both 12v and 18v Bosch impact drivers. Most of the time, if I can't break something loose with the 12v then the 18v won't work either. I'm not saying that the 18v isn't any stronger because it is. I just manually break the bolt loose and prefer the 12v because of the size. Never reach for the 18v anymore.

 

[dwm]

18v. I have one and have never wished I had the 12v instead. Plus the 18v is more versatile around the house.

I have both, and for around the house and indoor woodworking projects I usually find myself reaching for the 12V. Given that it has no problems driving 3" screws into any wood I've thrown at it, and has happily driven 1.25" #10 and #12 screws into stacked sheets of hardwood plywood, I just find it more pleasant to use for small projects due the lower weight and smaller size (I almost don't even notice its weight when holstered when I climb a ladder). I seem to only reach for the 18V when I need the extended battery life. The latest 12V impact drivers are quite a marvel.

To each his own, of course!

 

[dwm]

Wait a second, isn't GJ supposed to talk people into buying tools?

I'm a total newb to impact drivers - are these things improving rapidly enough that in a year's time, we'll see better impacts at similar prices (assuming constant value currency (yes, I know, a joke in a fiat world))?

I think it depends on what you consider a critical improvement. Maximum torque goes up a little bit each year. But honestly, the current ones are SO much nicer to use for driving screws that when you buy one you'll wonder why the heck you didn't buy one sooner. Even if you don't drive screws into wood all that often. If you NEVER find yourself driving screws into wood, it might not be a tool you really need. On the other hand, I bought a Bosch 12V combo just for automotive work. I find it very useful, but your mileage may vary. My 1/4" air ratchet has been collecting dust ever since. The ratchet is speedier at some things, and clearly can reach places that the impact driver won't, but there's the air hose encumbrance and the noise (tool and compressor). If it's late at night, I'm usually not going to use my air tools. And I've been eyeing the new Milwaukee cordless ratchet.

 

[stickshift]

On the other hand, I bought a Bosch 12V combo just for automotive work. I find it very useful, but your mileage may vary. My 1/4" air ratchet has been collecting dust ever since. The ratchet is speedier at some things, and clearly can reach places that the impact driver won't, but there's the air hose encumbrance and the noise (tool and compressor). If it's late at night, I'm usually not going to use my air tools. And I've been eyeing the new Milwaukee cordless ratchet.

Isn't a 12v impact driver fairly noisy once it starts hammering?

 

[dwm]

Isn't a 12v impact driver fairly noisy once it starts hammering?

Yes, but for some reason it doesn't make my neighbor's dogs howl like my air tools. Also, my compressor is right next to my attached garage's door, and I try to be courteous to the neighbors when I can. My compressor isn't screaming loud, but the low frequencies penetrate the door pretty easily.

And part of the reason I bought the Bosch CLPK27-120 is that it also comes with a 12V drill/driver (no impacting). I sometimes use that for putting fasteners back on the car (the ones w/ no real torque spec... set the clutch on the drill, and away I go). I find it pretty useless as a drill because I generally can't stand quick-change hex-ended drill bits, but it's fine as a simple clutched driver.

 

[SubaruGreg]

I have a Milwaukee 3/8 and 1/2 both 18v and I love them! I havent ever had a situation where I needed a smaller 12v in a tight space that I can remember. If I did I could just use a ratchet.

 

[IndyGarage]

I have a Milwauke V28 impact wrench. It's not as good as an air wrench, but way better than not having one.

I have a 12v impact driver - they are for light duty work - I find them very handy when I work on motorcycles or small engines. They won't break bolts free however.

 

[Adrien]

What's the functional difference between a 12v impact driver and a 12v 3/8" impact wrench, other than you don't need a 1/4" hex to 3/8" square drive adapter? I suppose the use of adapters cuts down on the torque delivered to the socket?

An impact driver gives rotational and downward force, whereas an impact wrench gives only rotational force--if I'm not mistaken.

Adrien

 

[tyyost]

I just got the 3/8 M18 and it is a great tool. If you do a lot of part swapping or engine work i highly recommend. If you are tires and suspension I would say 1/2 but the 3/8 is a dream and blows a 1/4 impact driver with adapter out of the water for auto work.

 

[tyyost]

Purplezr2... how do you like that 3/8" impact for the m18 line? I want to get it & the 1/2" high torque m18. It would be nice to get the smaller 1/2" impact but it doesn't put out too much more than the 3/8" to justify getting it.

I would skip it and use the adapter from 3/8 to 1/2, the specs aren't too different to make me think that the tools are only marginally different. Same body, the hammer assembly can only be so much bigger in the same case.

 

[amolaver]

I would skip it and use the adapter from 3/8 to 1/2, the specs aren't too different to make me think that the tools are only marginally different. Same body, the hammer assembly can only be so much bigger in the same case.

err, perhaps you are looking at the compact 1/2" impact - ie http://www.milwaukeetool.com/tools/...ch-compact-impact-wrench-w-pin-detent/2652-22 - 2200 in-lb or 183.3 ft-lb

the 'real' 1/2" impact is http://www.milwaukeetool.com/tools/...que-impact-wrench-w-friction-ring-kit/2663-22 - 450ft-lb

i am thinking of adding the compact 3/8 impact http://www.milwaukeetool.com/tools/...ompact-impact-wrench-w-ring-bare-tool/2651-20 to the 'real' 1/2" (which i have, and am amazed at).

IMO, you don't need a 1/2" air impact with that milwaukee, the bosch, or the SO. if they won't take it off, you need 3/4"...

the compact impacts are nice because they are lighter, but i don't see the value in the compact 1/2" - just get the 3/8" if you need the lighter weight. if you need the grunt, the full framed beasties are needed.

ahm

 

[Greatbear]

What's the functional difference between a 12v impact driver and a 12v 3/8" impact wrench, other than you don't need a 1/4" hex to 3/8" square drive adapter? I suppose the use of adapters cuts down on the torque delivered to the socket?

That's it, in a nutshell. Adapters will absorb some of the useful torque, and add to the overall length of the tool as well, making getting into tight spaces a bit tougher. There is nothing wrong with using adapters, in fact, you can easily switch between 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" adapters as well as many other bits, nutsetters and drivers, making the impact driver far more versatile in the long run. I just needed/wanted a dedicated 3/8 tool in addition.

 

[rockchucker]

I am really loving my 36v DeWalt. Not as powerful as it seems it could be but still over 300 lb/ft of Torque.

 

[Drew_flux]

I would get the big one. Nothing worse than sweating over a rusted bolt in the driveway on the weekend.