I would love input from the garage masterminds (40X60)

[KrucksGarage]

Hi folks,
Below I have copy and pasted some brainstorming from a microsoft word document I made recently. I've been trying to take into consideration all aspects to consider for my up and coming shop build. I plan to do all or a majority of the work myself with the help from friends and family with experience. I've been reading a ton of threads on here about builds and have learned a lot already with this resourse and others, but give me a little input on what you see below and let me know what I might want to add to the list. My shop is going to be 40' X 60' X 16'. I plan to build it somewhat in it's simplest form at first and then add what I can do without later on to be more affordable. My intent is for vehicle and other storage, metal fabrication, various vehicle projects, side work in the welding field, etc. Toying with the idea of building a mezzanine or loft on one end and going with three instead of four garage bay doors, but haven't decided. I intend to buy a set of plans this coming spring/summer, and start getting underway with permitting and dirtwork. For the most part the content below was taken from my personal notes I've been making. I printed it out and have gotten some material bids already and made other Q and A subpoints but this is my basic reference sheet. Let me know what you think.

40 x 60 x 16 GARAGE INFO WORKSHEET

PERMITTING:
When do I do this, do I need drawings first?

DRAWINGS / CONSULTATION WITH ARCHITECT:
Meet with architect, ask all questions below, take notes.
Purchase drawings to get started with material bids
Need to figure out the order of operations

DIRTWORK:
Excavating vegetation
Burning
Shooting grade
Ditching - drains, electrical, plumbing
Leveling for slab
Backfill
catch basin for sink

CONCRETE:
footing (6” thick X 18” wide)
stem wall (2’ hight X 8" thick)
slab (4” - 5")
Concrete Questions:
1) What are the best reinforcements / crack inhibitors?
Rebar, fiber/wire mesh, zip strips, saw cuts
2) What is the benefit of thicker slab (5”) $-->?
3) Do I need thicker concrete in area of mezzanine posts or lift?
4) what is the optimum spacing for rebar and what is the added cost
LUMBER:
Top and bottom plates (2X6’s)
wall studs (14’ – 2X6’s) 2' stem wall + 14' studs = 16' eve height
beams/headers over doors/windows
trusses
side and roof sheeting
bird blocks
trim – painted trim color of house
tyvek weatherization
Lumber Questions:
1) What is the cost/benefit exchange of cdx plywood vs. osb for sheeting (both for roof and side)
2) What is the cost/benefit exchange of hemfir to doug fir
3) How much extra cost involved for attic trusses and are they feasible to span this floor plan
4) Do I need specific additions to wall structure for mezzanine or loft attachment

GARAGE DOORS / WINDOWS:
Roll-up shop doors – 14’ height, 12’ width either 4 doors on 60’ side, or 3 doors with one bay for 2-story w/ mezzanine / loft
1 man door on house side of garage
1 man door on opposite side from house
Possible upper windows for natural light
Garage Door / Window Questions:
1) How feasible is it to add in windows later – cost$$?
2) How feasible is it to add second (lower) man door later
3) Is spacing of 3’ on ends and 2’ between doors for 4 garage bay doors on 60’ side feasible?

ELECTRICAL:
Run from existing transformer - ditch across
Power panel(s)
230V outlets (welder, compressor) – compressor switched near door?
120V outlets every 10 feet or to code
Lighting (interior: dome mercury, fluorescent….? Exterior: projectable/aimable halogen?)
Light switches at all doors, including man doors and all bay doors
Total load:
30A compressor
50A welders
Overhead lighting
Vehicle lift
Outside lighting (halogen)
Available breaker for heating
Hot water heater for sink
Electrical Questions:
1) What size panel(s) are required for this application?
2) Size of breakers for lift?
3) How much lighting per light circuit, are there fixtures that allow more per circuit?
4) What is the most cost effective form of lighting compared to lumens?
5) Can wiring for the lift be run in the overhead or do I need to run conduit in slab?
6) What is the best spacing between lights

SIDING:
Hardi to match the house
Siding Questions:
1) What are all other options, look decent?
2) What is the cost comparison between siding – longevity?

ROOFING:
Tar paper
Architectural composition roofing
Roofing Questions:
1) What is the cost breakdown between 30 – 40 – 50 year roofing?

PLUMBING:
Wash basin?
Hose bibs for exterior
Small hot water heater for sink

EXTERIOR:
Lighting
Hose bib(s)
Power outlets
Driveway slab?? ---$$
Gable end vents
Gutters/downspouts – painted trim color of house
Paint – same as house

HARDWARE:
Nails
Screws
Sheeting alignment clips
e-quake straps
end clips / lumber brackets
various garage door hardware
Other questions for the architect:
1) What is the simplest plan / cheapest route to achieve this floor plan to come as close to these results as I can. What are the varying options and what are the compromises to make it more affordable?
2) If I eventually want to run outdoor stairs to an upper mezzanine door, how will that effect the drawings / permitting

Things to think about or add to the shop in the long run:
(AKA things that can wait):
1) Insulation
2) Sheetrock
3) Heating system – propane, 230V --- options??
4) Air plumbing / manifolds / regulators
5) Lumber and various materials for mezzanine
6) Soundproof board for mezzanine
7) Vehicle lift
8) Utility sink and hot water heater

 

[geologist]

You're probably better in the long run to go with a metal roof. You're talking about a pretty good investment in a 40x60 roof. Having done quite a bit of roofing, those 30 year asphalt shingles *might* hold together for that long, but if you've ever viewed an older roof, you'll think twice, especially in your neck of the woods (my sister lives in Union Gap). On a side note, you can get architectural styled steel shingles. You're likely to have a fair amount of moss growth in the crevices of the shingles if you're not careful.

As for the OSB vs CDX debate, OSB is full of resin, but I've ran across a lot of sheets that I felt weren't well binded. CDX is a good bit stronger.

 

[HAP]

I would get some quotes for a comercial metal building first. They include of the plans/drawings you will need for a permit. You might be surprized at how much you can save and how much faster it can be constructed. I did my steel 40x60 by myself (except for the concrete work), took about 3 months. The kit had everything and it went together perfectly. I just had to buy additional roof screws because I doubled the number that the plans called for.

Good luck on your build.
HAP

 

[Nighttrain]

Looking forward to seeing your build. I have a 40x60x16 garage and love the size.

As for an attic I think that would be a heck of a climb to get up there.

As for your slab is 6" deep enough for your area?

How about radiant heat in the floor? Putting the PEX in the floor is not too big of a cost doing it yourself. You can always save a couple of years to install the hot water heater. Vapor barrier under the cement? And I went with rebar.

I only have one big door on my garage. IT works for me since I don't move a lot of cars in and out a lot. Consider your door placement for weather. Will you get the best summer breeze with the doors and will you get a good cross ventalation? I have a man door on the back side of mine and it really helps to keep it cool in the summer.

The more big doors you have the more you will have air leaks around them.

WIth the tall ceiling you will be trapping heat up high. Fans or a vent in the roof will help.

You did not mention insulation! You really should do this. (edit, i see it in the long range plan)

You also should plan on all your doors and windows now. It will be a pain later to install them. You mentioned the windows for light, which is good. I would place as many on the south side as you can.

Consider metal building? My material for the building alone in 09 was $22k just for reference.

Look at my build, it may give you some ideas to the size and floor plan you are looking at.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

I'd probably start here:
http://www.kitsapgov.com/dcd/building/building.htm

Even though you're in an unincorporated area doesn't mean you can throw up whatever you want. There may be some restrictions that will not go with your "plan".

 

[Adrien]

If you're considering steel check out my thread.

Adrien

 

[dabirdguy]

Try to include imbedded tie-downs in the concrete to use as pull points.

 

[ChrisBrooks]

Based on your electrical with welder, a/c, water header, etc., you need 4 220s and do not go under a 200 amp panel. For your lights, I have in my 38/50 shop 20 4' double strip lights on one switch with a 10 amp breaker. Insulation, if you go with a metal (as suggested above), look for a company that has foam. I foamed a 120 year old home and it is cheaper that glass...I promise. Any door you place in the shop, make SURE they are no smaller that a 36. Anything you go into your shop with, you need to room. I also get a single metal exterior door even inside(I have three side rooms that I deadbolt).

Remember also if you can, for your air compressor needs, try and create it's on 'AIR' room so you can vent it to help cool and also cut down on the noise. I have a sandblasting cabinet and it's nice to shut the door where I have mine to cut out the noise from the compressor. To run your air needs, you can use 1' pex if you’re not running more than 110 psi. Also, turn a up-and-down, up-and-down wall pipe with a air drier at the end before you split off for hose connections (loops up and down). What this does is create a type pee-trap and water will be limited to travel to the last loops and drop air from your tools. Mine works great!!!

I agree with above regarding metal roofs. If installed properly, it will last longer. Make sure the use the proper screws though. I'm having to re-do mine and stop leaks.

For your electrical sockets, use 14/2 for some areas and save money but make your plates in a color you will identify with and not use strong tools on them. Adjacent outlets, use 12/2 and mark them as well. I added a lot more plates to get to with 14/2 and is available for most of my needs.

Before you box in your walls and you need a lift of some sort, consider installing 4x4's or several 2x10s from floor to your roof in case you ever want to put an I-Beam in your shop. I used 5 2x12 bolted together that is mounted on the outside of my wall because I didn't install them before closing in my wall. I have a 9" I-Beam that spans 28'.

Also, I would suggest, in the direct center line of the back wall of each door, install into your cement an anchored bolts. You might want to use it to winch items into your shop. It's easy dragging out items but hard to push them in!!!!

On your floor, stain it. Do not use gray epoxy if you travel a lot on your floor(some may disagree). I've used the gray epoxy and have had to redo every single application. My new shop, I stained it with a Coca Cola stain and sealed it. You can scratch it all you want...just simply re-apply a thin coat of seal to bring back the look. The stain will never lift.

Bolt down all walls to the floor. I'm sure it's code anyway.

Venting: I would suggest placing a filtered vent on any boxed in area or any room you add. On the other wall, place a small fan in it. Two purposes: keeps duct down and will drag out fumes. Buy fans that you never will cut off.

Bench working areas: I found that if I keep as much off the floor as possible, the dust is easy to keep cleaner when blowing it out.

Bottom walls, coat/seal very well, then when you think it's enough, do it again. If you clean the floors with water, it will not seep.

If you use sheetrock, use the green at least on the bottoms.

Inside walls, before you close them in; add a 2x6 cross member about eye level and make good notes the exact height. This will give you plenty of mounting brace if you install anything on the walls later on.....I didn't....and still struggling having to cut out sheetrock to add bracing.

Best regards

Hope I was some help. My shop is still in the cosmetic stages but I use it every day.

Best regards.

Chris D. Brooks
Systems Analyst-Ancillary Professional Services
Medical Center of Central Ga.
777 Hemlock St.
Macon Ga. 31201
[email protected]
(478) 633-2286 – Office

He who listens well, will do well! One that keeps making mistakes, never listens!

 

[larry_g]

Hi folks,
Below I have copy and pasted some brainstorming from a microsoft word document I made recently. I've been trying to take into consideration all aspects to consider for my up and coming shop build. I plan to do all or a majority of the work myself with the help from friends and family with experience. I've been reading a ton of threads on here about builds and have learned a lot already with this resourse and others, but give me a little input on what you see below and let me know what I might want to add to the list. My shop is going to be 40' X 60' X 16'. I plan to build it somewhat in it's simplest form at first and then add what I can do without later on to be more affordable. My intent is for vehicle and other storage, metal fabrication, various vehicle projects, side work in the welding field, etc. Toying with the idea of building a mezzanine or loft on one end and going with three instead of four garage bay doors, but haven't decided. I intend to buy a set of plans this coming spring/summer, and start getting underway with permitting and dirtwork. For the most part the content below was taken from my personal notes I've been making. I printed it out and have gotten some material bids already and made other Q and A subpoints but this is my basic reference sheet. Let me know what you think.

40 x 60 x 16 GARAGE INFO WORKSHEET

PERMITTING:
When do I do this, do I need drawings first?

DRAWINGS / CONSULTATION WITH ARCHITECT:
Meet with architect, ask all questions below, take notes.
Purchase drawings to get started with material bids
Need to figure out the order of operations

DIRTWORK:
Excavating vegetation
Burning
Shooting grade
Ditching - drains, electrical, plumbing
Leveling for slab
Backfill
catch basin for sink

Looking at your avi it looks like your on unlevel ground so quite a bit of excavation will be done. If your planning to use that tractor your in for a lot of work. Consider hiring it done if necessary. Also if removing trees make sure all the roots come out and the hole is is filled and compacted correctly

CONCRETE:

1) What are the best reinforcements / crack inhibitors?
Rebar, fiber/wire mesh, zip strips, saw cuts
2) What is the benefit of thicker slab (5”) $-->?
3) Do I need thicker concrete in area of mezzanine posts or lift?

I have used zip strips on my two builds and have been happy with the results.

Electrical Questions:

Determine early on if you have to hide your electrical runs or if you can live with conduit runs exposed. This is aesthetic thing and some don't want exposed. I personally want an electrical system that I can modify easily as needed so exposed conduit is fine with me.

ROOFING:

I second the vote for steel roofing..



Things to think about or add to the shop in the long run:
(AKA things that can wait):
1) Insulation
2) Sheetrock
3) Heating system – propane, 230V --- options??
4) Air plumbing / manifolds / regulators
5) Lumber and various materials for mezzanine
6) Soundproof board for mezzanine
7) Vehicle lift
8) Utility sink and hot water heater

As for adding windows and doors later you can. If you think ahead and rough frame for the later addition then it will be a lot easier. Just frame in and side over it. Later when you buy the window or door cut out the siding and install. AS for the mezzanine if you plan for it then you can have the extra framing or footings in place for later when you install the mez. Also think ahead if your planning a lift. Now is the time to lay out where extra concrete footings may be needed for that. If your planning a stair to the mez then think about the landing above and if you have headroom where you need it. May take some modified trusses or? On mine you can see where I incorporated a landing for t he stairs by extending the floor joists. Makes it handy to lift heavy stuff up with the tractor bucket.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[KrucksGarage]

You're probably better in the long run to go with a metal roof. You're talking about a pretty good investment in a 40x60 roof. Having done quite a bit of roofing, those 30 year asphalt shingles *might* hold together for that long, but if you've ever viewed an older roof, you'll think twice, especially in your neck of the woods (my sister lives in Union Gap). On a side note, you can get architectural styled steel shingles. You're likely to have a fair amount of moss growth in the crevices of the shingles if you're not careful.

As for the OSB vs CDX debate, OSB is full of resin, but I've ran across a lot of sheets that I felt weren't well binded. CDX is a good bit stronger.

Great info, thanks! Yea we do have a battle the moss around here, on the roof with moss-out granules every year and puttin some miles on the leaf blower. I've never used any metal roofing before but I have a good friend that is going that route with his (pole building though also)

 

[volvo]

...
Might consider adding color to your concrete at the batch plant. Less money than staining, color will be all the way through and can add to the overall architectural design. I have used mid browns for sidewalks and was very pleased. At $80 a truck load vs floor coatings $$$$.
Recommend adding more outlets than every 10', also by doors.

 

[KrucksGarage]

Looking forward to seeing your build. I have a 40x60x16 garage and love the size.

As for an attic I think that would be a heck of a climb to get up there.

As for your slab is 6" deep enough for your area?

How about radiant heat in the floor? Putting the PEX in the floor is not too big of a cost doing it yourself. You can always save a couple of years to install the hot water heater. Vapor barrier under the cement? And I went with rebar.

I only have one big door on my garage. IT works for me since I don't move a lot of cars in and out a lot. Consider your door placement for weather. Will you get the best summer breeze with the doors and will you get a good cross ventalation? I have a man door on the back side of mine and it really helps to keep it cool in the summer.

The more big doors you have the more you will have air leaks around them.

WIth the tall ceiling you will be trapping heat up high. Fans or a vent in the roof will help.

You did not mention insulation! You really should do this. (edit, i see it in the long range plan)

You also should plan on all your doors and windows now. It will be a pain later to install them. You mentioned the windows for light, which is good. I would place as many on the south side as you can.

Consider metal building? My material for the building alone in 09 was $22k just for reference.

Look at my build, it may give you some ideas to the size and floor plan you are looking at.

Thanks for all the info! If I do the attic trusses, I would access it from a 2nd story partial mezzanine on one end of the shop, which would be built down the road. Just seems you can never have too much storage, The more space I have the more I seem to "collect". Yes I thought about the radiant floor heat but I just don't know if it gets cold enough here to need it. I would like to lay down a barrier and eventually put up an overhead heater of some kind I think, but I'll research that some more and see what others have done in the area. The floor heat might be nice to have, we'll see. Trying to stay as affordable as I can for the initial build. I hear you on your other points as well, and appreciate the input. By the way, that's the most kick-*** garage office/mancave I have ever seen, props on the sweet build!

 

[KrucksGarage]

I'd probably start here:
http://www.kitsapgov.com/dcd/building/building.htm

Even though you're in an unincorporated area doesn't mean you can throw up whatever you want. There may be some restrictions that will not go with your "plan".

Good point, but as luck would have it my wife works for the county and used to be an employee of community development, we turned in a rough site plan and there seems to be no hitches with the plan, just have to go through the formal ermit process prior to build. It's been handy as all heck having her work there, we just went through the process to get approval to shoot at our home property as well, that was fun.

 

[KrucksGarage]

If you're considering steel check out my thread.

Adrien

Yes sir, already been checking you out, nice looking shop! I have not warmed up totally to the metal building idea yet, definately seems like a nice cost effective way to go, but I need to study up on it some more and get some prices nailed down, still open to the idea for sure.

 

[KrucksGarage]

Try to include imbedded tie-downs in the concrete to use as pull points.

 

[KrucksGarage]

larry g-
Thank you, some great points, I've learned a lot already! All good points everyone, thank you for the input, I hope to share the progress fairly soon, I want to break ground this spring/summer looks like hiring my neighbor for the excavation work and ground levelling. We are going to shoor some grade here pretty soon and determine the best location and face direction.

 

[cyamaha2007]

Go to diypolebarns.com They have a great pricing feature that lets you put in your zip code and add size or add doors or overhangs and spits out the real price. You can design your building how you want it and dont have to wait for a salesman to get back to you. I got my kit from them in August and am very happy with it. It was thousands cheaper than everywhere else. I did a 36x56 due to a large jump in price if i went to 40ft wide

 

[KrucksGarage]

Go to diypolebarns.com They have a great pricing feature that lets you put in your zip code and add size or add doors or overhangs and spits out the real price. You can design your building how you want it and dont have to wait for a salesman to get back to you. I got my kit from them in August and am very happy with it. It was thousands cheaper than everywhere else. I did a 36x56 due to a large jump in price if i went to 40ft wide

Well I went to that site and as soon as I input the zip code it popped up and said, sorry we do not serve washington, sorry for the inconvenience. haha oh well, better luck next time!

 

[ConCretin]

Concrete Questions:
1) What are the best reinforcements / crack inhibitors?
Rebar, fiber/wire mesh, zip strips, saw cuts
2) What is the benefit of thicker slab (5”) $-->?
3) Do I need thicker concrete in area of mezzanine posts or lift?
4) what is the optimum spacing for rebar and what is the added cost

It is unlikely you will be able to place a slab that big without getting a random shrinkage crack or two, no matter what type of reinforcing you choose. If random cracks are unacceptable, plan on saw cut or grooved control joints.

I'd opt for rebar. (#4's @ 12" each way) It won't do much to prevent cracking but it will hold the cracks together including the ones that form in the bottom of you control joints. The added cross section of the bars over mesh is overkill but the bars will span the distances between the supports better and help ensure you reinforcing ends up where you want it.

A 4" Slab is more than adequate for moderate loads assuming you prepare a proper sub base. The ground underneath actually supports the load you place on a slab. Most people thicken the slab under lifts and structural supports. It's not absolutely necessary in most cases but it is cheap and provides peace of mind.

An extra inch over 40x60 is a little over 7 cy - call it $700.

 

[cyamaha2007]

You could still use them as a price guide. Input the closest zip in snow load they cover and take their bid to the lumber yard. Thats what i did trying to see what the lumber yard would match. They could match it but didnt have a few key features i really liked.

 

[Sureshot]

I have a 42x60x16 with 24x24 addition.

In the main shop I put a plug in outlet every 6' and air every 12'. In a couple of spots I wish I had done a double box on the pug ins but the air outlets are overkill. I have a reel between the overhead doors and one on the opposite end. Each has a 50' hose and I find that to be all I use. My plumber suggested running some of the cheap black poly pipe from between the doors to where the air would be so I could fish a regular air hose under the cement to where I wanted it. I would do more of that next time as well as running some spares for water outlets etc.

Plan for a bathroom if possible.

Plan for internet,telephone, cable etc if you can. I buried an air line to the house with the other cables etc and it is awesome to have air in the house. Also run extra lines and cables. They are cheap compared to redigging them. You can also fish extra hoses or lines through the spares. Put a couple extra sleeves in your concrete to bring in future lines etc without having to chip it out.

Put your headers in where you may want a window. Make them wider than necessary and they can be right under the top sill so you have plenty of options when you put them later if you do not put them in right away.

I have 14' tall doors by 12' wide and wish they were 14' wide. My doors are on the 42' side. I have 6' on the south where the man door is.4' between the doors and 8' on the north side where the work area was planned to be. I have considered pulling the 12' wide doors and 4' wall and putting a 28' wide door.

Sounds like you are going to have your doors on the 60' side. Be aware of snow and ice sliding off the roof. Not sure of your exact weather but it ***** to have man doors you cannot use due to snow build up. I have a man door on a north wall and the snow warms and slides off in front of the door and turns to a block of ice. It is on my list to build a roof over that door. The snow sliding off also unplugs things(blockheater) and has broken outside lights.

You might be itemizing things to much. If you are getting a contractor they will answer most of those questions. I have a Goodon pole building. I was going to insulate and line the building myself but when I priced out the material it was so close to what they wanted I couldn't think of doing it myself. Remember the logistics of working 16' up installing tin or other material. If you have a lift or scaffolding and the help it may be ok but needs to be added into the cost.

My building is tin inside and out and I am very happy with it. The only drywall is in the office and bathroom.

I have utilized my overhead space by mounting my compressor 8' off the floor as well as building storage units for the less used stuff. The water heater, pressure washer, and boiler are also 8' off the floor. I plan to build a tire rack to mount up high as well for spares and good takeoffs etc.

Hope some of this helps or inspires.

 

[Provincial]

Kruck, if you get near Salem, OR I would love to show you my 40x102 steel building, 40x42 of which is living area. I've gone through the design and construction phases (almost done now!) and can talk you through some of the compromises I had to make for cost and practicality.

 

[Sureshot]

I put hardener in my floor. It gives it a very light grey colour and helps keep the dust down.

 

[Provincial]

Ask around about quality of the redi-mix in your area. One of the local suppliers doesn't clean their aggregate well and gets lots of clay in the mix. It floats to the top of the pour and colors it brown. Then every time you sweep the floor some of the concrete/dirt comes off. The dirt keeps the concrete from getting full strength on at least the surface. Other local sources don't monitor their quality and the strength of the product varies widely from load to load. There are a couple of suppliers that make good mix, but one who used to be excellent was bought out by a large multinational and now sells lousy "mud", so make sure you get current information when you ask around!

 

[KrucksGarage]

It is unlikely you will be able to place a slab that big without getting a random shrinkage crack or two, no matter what type of reinforcing you choose. If random cracks are unacceptable, plan on saw cut or grooved control joints.

I'd opt for rebar. (#4's @ 12" each way) It won't do much to prevent cracking but it will hold the cracks together including the ones that form in the bottom of you control joints. The added cross section of the bars over mesh is overkill but the bars will span the distances between the supports better and help ensure you reinforcing ends up where you want it.

A 4" Slab is more than adequate for moderate loads assuming you prepare a proper sub base. The ground underneath actually supports the load you place on a slab. Most people thicken the slab under lifts and structural supports. It's not absolutely necessary in most cases but it is cheap and provides peace of mind.

An extra inch over 40x60 is a little over 7 cy - call it $700.

That's great information, I appreciate that. I just got a price today on #4 bar at $3.80 per 20' stick. I'll have to pencil out the total cost of that for the slab and see where I'm at. Good to know about the additional cost for a thicker slab, might be interested in beefing it up a bit, that's a reasonable cost upgrade when thinking long term.

 

[KrucksGarage]

I have a 42x60x16 with 24x24 addition.

In the main shop I put a plug in outlet every 6' and air every 12'. In a couple of spots I wish I had done a double box on the pug ins but the air outlets are overkill. I have a reel between the overhead doors and one on the opposite end. Each has a 50' hose and I find that to be all I use. My plumber suggested running some of the cheap black poly pipe from between the doors to where the air would be so I could fish a regular air hose under the cement to where I wanted it. I would do more of that next time as well as running some spares for water outlets etc.

Plan for a bathroom if possible.

Plan for internet,telephone, cable etc if you can. I buried an air line to the house with the other cables etc and it is awesome to have air in the house. Also run extra lines and cables. They are cheap compared to redigging them. You can also fish extra hoses or lines through the spares. Put a couple extra sleeves in your concrete to bring in future lines etc without having to chip it out.

Put your headers in where you may want a window. Make them wider than necessary and they can be right under the top sill so you have plenty of options when you put them later if you do not put them in right away.

I have 14' tall doors by 12' wide and wish they were 14' wide. My doors are on the 42' side. I have 6' on the south where the man door is.4' between the doors and 8' on the north side where the work area was planned to be. I have considered pulling the 12' wide doors and 4' wall and putting a 28' wide door.

Sounds like you are going to have your doors on the 60' side. Be aware of snow and ice sliding off the roof. Not sure of your exact weather but it ***** to have man doors you cannot use due to snow build up. I have a man door on a north wall and the snow warms and slides off in front of the door and turns to a block of ice. It is on my list to build a roof over that door. The snow sliding off also unplugs things(blockheater) and has broken outside lights.

You might be itemizing things to much. If you are getting a contractor they will answer most of those questions. I have a Goodon pole building. I was going to insulate and line the building myself but when I priced out the material it was so close to what they wanted I couldn't think of doing it myself. Remember the logistics of working 16' up installing tin or other material. If you have a lift or scaffolding and the help it may be ok but needs to be added into the cost.

My building is tin inside and out and I am very happy with it. The only drywall is in the office and bathroom.

I have utilized my overhead space by mounting my compressor 8' off the floor as well as building storage units for the less used stuff. The water heater, pressure washer, and boiler are also 8' off the floor. I plan to build a tire rack to mount up high as well for spares and good takeoffs etc.

Hope some of this helps or inspires.

Thanks for the great tips. I will think about adding some of these things in my build for sure. I plan on doing everything myself with the help of a few knowledgeable friends and family members. The only one I'm hesitant to do is the concrete. I have been asking around about quality of mix of the different plants and it sounds like the Fred Hill Kitsap Ready Mix is about the best thing going around here. I have a great contact in a building company, actually the guys the built our house, great guys, and they gave me terrific reference on this matter. Hopefully it all still holds true when I'm ready to go with it. I do have a friend willing to lend a couple scaffolding sets as well. So far, I have knowledgeable and experienced buddies to help with concrete, framing, roofing, and electrical. I'm getting excited to get moving forward with the build. I think my neighbor and I are going to start excavation and levelling this spring.

 

[KrucksGarage]

Ask around about quality of the redi-mix in your area. One of the local suppliers doesn't clean their aggregate well and gets lots of clay in the mix. It floats to the top of the pour and colors it brown. Then every time you sweep the floor some of the concrete/dirt comes off. The dirt keeps the concrete from getting full strength on at least the surface. Other local sources don't monitor their quality and the strength of the product varies widely from load to load. There are a couple of suppliers that make good mix, but one who used to be excellent was bought out by a large multinational and now sells lousy "mud", so make sure you get current information when you ask around!

Unfortunately, I've heard of things like this happening, similarly to when Bomac got bought out by Miles in my area, I've heard poor reports about the new mud. One particular friend of mine has stopped using the company the quality has gotten so bad.

 

[KrucksGarage]

Thanks to you all for the great information and tips, it has been helping in my research and planning. There are a lot of smart and clever ideas that I have learned about travelling this site. There are some great looking shops, it's inspiring me to get mine going! Thanks again, keep it coming!

 

[KrucksGarage]

LLWillysfan -
Sorry to side-step the topic of discussion on my own thread here, but I'm a Willys fan too and curious what you've got?

 

[revamped]

Krucks, have you been able to start/finish your build? I am also in KC and looking to start this fall with my build on Newberry.
Looking for advice for our county since you are plugged in with DCD.
Thanks