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honing a cylinder block at home, question

emeraldcoupe

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Jan 4, 2010
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Location
spring hill, florida
i'm doing a quick re ring / bearing job on a spare engine i have. i've never used a cylinder hone before, always had the block machined. anyway, i have one of the 3 stone hones, what is the proper way to use it. what to use to lube- oil,wd,? thanks guys.
 
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LAROKE

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Jul 30, 2010
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I can't help you with your questions but, while you wait for real answers, I can offer a story about my brother when he used a "ridge reamer" in the eighties.

Setup for a good reaming

I removed the remaining head bolt, lifted the head from the engine and gently tossed the head onto the pile of parts which had been my engine. Next I removed the oil pan and the connecting rod end caps. I was ready to remove the pistons.

For those of you who either are, or a close relative to, one of the "can't use a screwdriver set," the method used to remove the pistons from the engine is to push the piston up through the hole in the top of the engine block. But before you can remove the piston in this manner, you must remove the "ridge" at the top of the piston. This ridge forms because the piston does not go all the way to the top of the cylinder when the engine is running. Because of the friction between the piston rings and the cylinder wall the cylinder's diameter grows over time but the very top of the cylinder remains the original size thus forming a ridge. The piston rings will not pass the ridge . . . it must be removed to get the pistons out.

There is a tool for this purpose. I'm sure it's produced by the same company which makes interrogation devices for the CIA.

I went to my local parts jobber. A parts jobber is the traditional name of an automotive parts supply store. A true parts jobber has nothing in his store but a counter and sixteen feet of catalogs. You tell him what parts you need, the year and make of your vehicle and he asks embarrassing questions like "Is your clutch eleven inches or eleven and a quarter inches?" You ask if the parts are returnable, take a guess and go home with, hopefully, the right part.

"I need a ridge reamer," the aforementioned implement of torture. "What size is your cylinder?" came the embarrassing question. "Four inches . . . I think" I said. I'd just told him that it was a 235 cubic inch Chevy engine in a 1955, first series truck. You would think he would have had a chart in that sixteen-foot catalog specifying the cylinder size. "Is that a half-ton or a 3/4-ton?" came his reply. Another embarrassing question. Perhaps he didn't like the tone in my voice when I offered the cylinder size. Then I saw it! The Pennsylvania State Inspection sign. I was in the clutches of a member of the conspiracy and he was not going to let me escape without extracting a little blood. "Half-ton" I said with a level voice. He reached behind the counter and retrieved the much needed tool. "That will be $22.50 a day rental and a $75.00 deposit." I paid. I thought "I don't want to buy it, I just want to rent it, numb-nuts" but didn't say it. "I should have it back this afternoon" I said. He started to laugh.

Reamed . . . and put away wet

To use the ridge reamer, one inserts it into the cylinder and adjusts the clamping mechanism to hold it in place. On top of this horrid tool is a hex nut which you turn with a wrench thus causing the cutting head to remove material from the cylinder top. After a few rotations of the cutting head you must re-adjust the clamping which extends the cutting head and you turn the nut again. You continue this procedure until the ridge is gone.

In order to operate the thing I found that I had to sit on the engine block under the raised hood with a leg hanging on either side of the engine block. I started the operation. Adjust . . . turn the nut . . . adjust . . . turn the nut . . . adjust . . . turn the nut. Two hours later the first cylinder was smooth enough to get the piston out. Let's see, two hours per cylinder with five cylinders to go. That's ten hours. If I skipped lunch and bathroom breaks I could still have the tool back before the parts jobber closed. I could make the numb-nuts eat his laughter!

Did I mention that temperature was about 92 degrees and the humidity was around 85%!

After hours and hours of "adjust and turn the nut" I was finally on my last cylinder and I still had time to get the tool returned before the store closed. My joy at the prospect of seeing the look on the numb-nut's face as I triumphantly threw the damn tool down on the counter while demanding my deposit was short lived, however. All at once I got cramps! Two of them! One in each leg! Both calf muscles tried to tear themselves from the bones. I desperately needed to straighten my legs to relieve the cramps, but I couldn't use my legs to get off the damn engine block so I could straighten them! I finally, grabbed the radiator and, mustering all my upper body strength (I'm a skinny ******* so there wasn't much strength to muster.) I catapulted myself off the engine block, over the radiator and unto the driveway. I landed on my chest but my legs were now straight. I just lay there until the pain subsided. I could barely get up. When I finally made to my feet I slammed the hood leaving the tool from hell in the last cylinder, went to my refrigerator, grabbed a beer, Iron City of course, and lay on my plaid couch. I was asleep before the beer was half gone. The numb-nuts had won!

Reaming aftermath

Slowly I became aware of someone telling me to repent so that I would be saved. I opened my eyes. It was Sunday morning and a TV evangelist was trying to save me from damnation in the form of a ridge reamer, I am sure. I reached down with my tired, stiff, aching arm to retrieve the Iron City. It was warm, flat and wonderful.

After twenty minutes or so I gained enough strength to hobble down to the truck. I opened the hood; the dreaded ridge reamer was still there! I was hoping, in fact dreaming that I had finished the job but I hadn't. I climbed back in and sat on the engine block as before. I completed the job in about one half hour. No more work would be done on the truck this day. I would return the reamer on Monday now that the job was done. At that moment I resolved to never, never again use a ridge reamer. In the future I would simply remove the entire, intact engine and take it to an automotive machine shop for rebuilding. After all, one seldom gets a cramp from writing a check.

As I entered the store, the numb-nuts had already resumed his laughter. "Tougher job than you thought." laughed the miserable *******. I tossed the thing on the counter. "Just give me what's left of my deposit." I said ignoring his barb. "Well . . . I'll have to inspect it for damage." It was obvious that he needed to make me bleed some more. "It looks OK. Let's see you had it for an additional two days so you get thirty back." Now that I had what was left of my deposit, I was about to tell him how he lost the opportunity to sell me the much needed engine parts because of his ****** attitude when it dawned on me that he may have the power to black ball me with all the parts jobbers in the area. I simply left.
 
Last edited:

VDubJoe

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Jan 22, 2006
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319
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New Port Richey , Fl
Just trying to break the glaze i would get a ball hone. And also use some honing oil . Go to the Goodson site for some good info in their tech section. Just ordered 5 gal of honing oil not cheap. But a gallon isnt bad and they have flexhones.

Joe
 

35mastr

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Dec 6, 2007
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Norcal
Ball hone would work well. Thats what I use. If you use the 3 stone one. Stay away from the crank.
 

Jagmandave

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Nov 6, 2011
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Overland Park, Ks.
Right, make sure to either turn the crank journal down away from the bottom of the cylinder, or put something over the top of it to protect it.

Run your 1/2" drill on a very slow speed and move it up and down quickly, what you're going for is at least a 45* angle between the marks. You can use cutting oil or ATF, or even WD40. The most important thing is to clean the cylinders properly afterwards. You have to get ALL of the grit back out of the cylinder, not just a quick swipe with a red shop rag either. Use soap and water (I use 409) and repeat, then clean oil on a white cloth till it comes out clear, then ATF on another white cloth till it comes back clean.
 

rsanter

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Dec 22, 2007
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Location
visalia ca
the 3 stone hones are better if you have a cylinder that is straight and true. if you have a worn bore you will need to use a ball hone
just keep in mind that these are not real 'hones' but rather glaze breakers.

bob
 

riceburner

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Jun 8, 2007
Messages
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If you are lacking experience on doing this kind of a job it really would be worth the extra cash to take out to a machine shop and have it done properly, this is such a big job and what you are attempting to do really is key to having the motor run good - or even half way decent.

Having the bore straight and a decent hone is really important for ring seal.
 
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emeraldcoupe

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Jan 4, 2010
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spring hill, florida
i've built plenty of engines, just never did a cheapie re ring job on one before. like i said it's just going to be a temp spare while i build my stroker.
 

riceburner

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Jun 8, 2007
Messages
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I have done (or attmepted) to do the cheapo ring replacement a couple of times, that is why I don't recommend it.

Having a good precision hone that results in a straight cylinder is always better than just a de-glazing that you will do with the spring or ball hone.
 

1931S/X

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Sep 16, 2007
Messages
143
stick the 3 finger hone in the drill with the coarse stones. use a light oil, you want to travel up and down at a pretty fast rate to get a decent hatch angle on the walls. its not going to be like 2 or 3 passes to brake the glaze, its going to take a while. its already worn out, you arent going to make it perfect, just try to make the finish look the same on all of them. its not rocket science. more than likely if you go to a machinist they arent going to want to do what you want to do, they are going to want to bore it. i just did the same thing last winter. i wanted to get my car all setup with the big block in it. i didnt want to spend the cash on a full build at the same time i was trying to build the car. i needed soemthing that would just get me by without throwing all kinds of smoke. i wound up switching from a cast cran kto forged for other reasons and had to have it balanced. the guy i normally use told me my piston was worn that i brought him, and ishould really replace them. i told him, yeah there are 7 more just like it at home and they are all going back in. he told me i was nuts and for what it costs i was wasting my time and money. maybe in his eyes, always doing everything 100% right with other peoples money. i told him i have a 1 year old at home, im not building a race motor, its a cruiser, it ran good before. i had to get the car up and running without running out of the allotted funds. when i went to pick it up, he told me you are right. it will work for what you are trying to do. you have your priorities. it will serve the purpose. i decided i wanted to put new cam bearings in and went to a local shop, he looked at the bore and i told him forget it, you arent boring it. he started laughing and told me ahh, it will be fine. they both said it will go 20,000 miles without a problem. i had so much fun with it this year, i put it in the car along with a ton of other big changes in the spring. i put 6,000 miles on it from june to september, took it to florida, ocean city md family parties and stuff. im about to start collecting parts to build something better now. who knows when ill complete that one.
 

purplezr2

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Jun 1, 2010
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Location
Central MN
I used a ball hone, when i rebuilt my BIL motor, worked well, have had no issues with the motor. Motor has about 10k on it burns no oil and compression is at around 180psi.
 

larry_g

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Apr 28, 2007
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Location
oregon
Way back in school when we were taught to do honing by hand we had a drill/hone on a spring from the ceiling. That way we only had to move the drill up and down and not have to lift against the weight of the drill motor in one direction and the falling weight in the other. Made for a lot better pattern and a lot less fatigue. A simple counter balance would also work.

lg
no neat sig line
 

1931S/X

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Sep 16, 2007
Messages
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a ball hone would definitely be better, but i know where you are coming from. id use what you have.
 
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