GoBlue
Well-known member
Im speaking of the newest version of this gun. I cant find a grease fitting anywhere! Is this like a Snap on where it has a continuous oil bath or what?
H.F earthquake no grease fitting?
- Thread starter GoBlue
- Start date
diesel research
Well-known member
Those that do not have fittings need to be taken apart, hammers inspected, and coated with prescribed amount of grease on hammers in front cover.
Is this the new ratchet? The new impacts don't.
Also how do you like it? Is it really "impacting" like the site says? How loud is it?
I've noticed the dB rating is misrepresented for some tools online when i was hunting for a quiet 1/4" model. The HF PB 1/4" air ratchet is said to have a dB rating of 79, on the box i picked up its actually listed as ~90. Not sure about the 3/8" or 1/2" impacting [yes they impact] but comparable impacting air ratchets from other brands are around 88-90 so i'd be very dubious about those as well [also claimed 79dB].
trboxman
Well-known member
I assume the manual's mention of grease fittings is a leftover from the previous version, as is the mention of three torque settings in reverse when clearly there is only one.
Just thinking logically, if they wanted you to grease it there would be a fitting on there like the last one. It's a solid impact, you can tell that put a lot of effort into designing (ie copying) it. I personally don't take it apart to grease it, just use air tool oil.
Older impacts didnt have a fitting and did require greasing by removing the hammer assembly to reduce wear on the hammers and housing. Hardly anyone does it though. You're suppose to completely dismantle and grease your air ratchets as well. Maybe in a perfect world.
I have the new 3/8 impacting ratchet, and its impacting, sound seems about average to me, and while brand new it took off any bolt you could expect from a 3/8 ratchet.
My take is if it saves them 10 cents to leave off the grease fitting and use low quality grease, as long as it makes it through warranty they are happy. I'd say take it apart and apply a quality grease, or don't, its your ratchet now.
My take is if it saves them 10 cents to leave off the grease fitting and use low quality grease, as long as it makes it through warranty they are happy. I'd say take it apart and apply a quality grease, or don't, its your ratchet now.
diesel research
Well-known member
This isn't completely sound logic, for reasons mentioned above. Plus, oiling it will not do anything for the hammer mechanism which is a sealed compartment. It is identical to suggesting transmission fluid does not require changing as long as the engine has oil in it. (as noted, many transmissions are not easily lubed these days, but they all still require it)
I tore my old earthquake down after a while. The grease had hardened and separated. Seems that the lighter oily liquid parts seeped past the seals, leaving a dry crust inside.
diesel research
Well-known member
LMAO, fail @ reading the whole thread before replying.
"Ya, but, I don't understand, I put oil in my engine"
trboxman
Well-known member
Zzzzaaapppp!!!!
For the record...
I pulled my gun apart 10 min. ago (slow at work)and it definitely requires grease. My gun was pretty much void of any grease what so ever! I cleaned out what little was present and re greased it with a quality high temp grease. I wish they put a damn fitting on this thing...this is going to be a pain in the **** over time.
I pulled my gun apart 10 min. ago (slow at work)and it definitely requires grease. My gun was pretty much void of any grease what so ever! I cleaned out what little was present and re greased it with a quality high temp grease. I wish they put a damn fitting on this thing...this is going to be a pain in the **** over time.
diesel research
Well-known member
It is possible for you to drill and tap...
Old guns also had a rear grease point because the rotor is supported by bearings, and those bearings benefit from grease.
As far as a HF tool requiring grease, this is no new news. The orange grinders everyone raves about, have inconsistent grease. Some have almost none and metal shavings inside. Others have a little, enough for it to last a while but still be noisy and vibrate. You would be amazed at what a few minutes of disassembly could do...
Old guns also had a rear grease point because the rotor is supported by bearings, and those bearings benefit from grease.
As far as a HF tool requiring grease, this is no new news. The orange grinders everyone raves about, have inconsistent grease. Some have almost none and metal shavings inside. Others have a little, enough for it to last a while but still be noisy and vibrate. You would be amazed at what a few minutes of disassembly could do...
trboxman
Well-known member
You could always see if you could install a flush grease fitting.
That's good to know. What sort of grease is the best for this situation? Also, generally when I take something apart and try and put it back together it runs worse. So I might skip it. Haha.
Its very easy. Just take off the four 5mm Hex bolts on the front housing and it pulls apart. There are no springs or parts that jump out or anything of that nature. I use the red synthetic bearing grease. We buy it by the bucket so i always have a good supply. Just take a rag and wipe out the old and slather some on the anvils and side of the case with your fingers.
240sxguy
Well-known member
I just got one of those guns. Sounds like I need to take it apart. I haven't even used it yet.
trboxman
Well-known member
GoBlue uses his pretty much every day in a shop environment. I'd guess that unless you do as well you'll not need to disassemble and grease before you use it.
SpiderGearsMan
Banned
that is why it will blow up when the warranty expires ..china dolls
Actually it came from Taiwan, and regardless, kicked the **** out of my 2135timax and is on par or a little stronger than my Aircat 1100k.
For $70 certainly worth the few mins to take it apart and put grease in it. IMO though.
diesel research
Well-known member
He also bought this gun less than 2 months ago. AND like I mentioned before. HF is a history of inconsistent lubing, which means your new impact may or may not have enough lube out of the box, even then it may be of questionable quality.
The older ones included, along with the rest of the power/air tools.
It is real easy to remove 4 screws and ensure your tool was lubed properly.
I seem to recall in the 1990s, a sealed unit bearing manufacturer in the USA accidentally did not inject enough lube into hubs before assembly. The result was numerous hub/wheel separations, and a recall of something like 300,000 hubs. A programming error caused injector to only fill 25% of spec...
trboxman
Well-known member
I'll agree that it's cheap and easy insurance.
So I don't work at a shop. What kind of grease/lube is the correct kind to use in this situation, something readily available at say a car parts store like NAPA, Car Quest, Advance Auto or similar.
Not too sure what red bearing grease is, or where to get it.
Not too sure what red bearing grease is, or where to get it.
diesel research
Well-known member
Harbor freight disagrees. These are the instructions copied from the owners manual. It is obviously a minor error as the instructions mention a non existent fitting:
Some words of warning. Excessively tacky/thick grease will harm performance. Other greases may harm seals.
One could argue that it is specified, and I would counter argue they are certainly not "all-knowing" and if other industries are just starting to make this discovery, it may be worth taking note of.
Too much grease is also bad, some impact manufacturers actually specify in tsp or oz how much to use.
The reason for relubing is because it breaks down when it is slung around and heated. The oils leak out past the seals and may even contribute to rotor/bore varnishing.
theamcguy
Well-known member
I've heard a lot of good things about the Earthquake Impact Wrench, but what is the part# to order one?
trboxman
Well-known member
So, this is not the old style, it's the new style. I've yet to use this beyond verifying that it spins a socket and has more torque than I can hold back with my gloved hand wrapped around a 36mm impact socket.
There is a light but thorough coating of grease on the hammers, hammer cage and the inside of the housing. I hope that the pics are clear enough, if not I can host them elsewhere.
There is a light but thorough coating of grease on the hammers, hammer cage and the inside of the housing. I hope that the pics are clear enough, if not I can host them elsewhere.
Attachments
trboxman
Well-known member
Oh, and I forgot to point out what should be obvious from the pictures...that is definitely not "white lithium" grease.
So, any guesses as to what sort of grease/lube to put in there? What is this high temp grease that GoBlue speaks of? Only lube I have ever bought so far was wheel bearing grease but that looks way too thick for this application.
Edit, found this:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BHKTBW/?tag=atomicindus08-20
IR 105 Grease for metal impacts...seems perfect for this Earthquake...thoughts yes/no? The last Earthquake was certainly based off the IR 232, not quite sure on the new one. But it's a metal housed impact not titanium for sure.
Edit, found this:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BHKTBW/?tag=atomicindus08-20
IR 105 Grease for metal impacts...seems perfect for this Earthquake...thoughts yes/no? The last Earthquake was certainly based off the IR 232, not quite sure on the new one. But it's a metal housed impact not titanium for sure.
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trboxman
Well-known member
That or wheel bearing grease.
diesel research
Well-known member
I'd say so. I've seen the tubs sold locally as well.
I use some of the red synthetic stuff, possibly the same stuff GoBlue is speaking of? Mobil1 synthetic SHC220 I think.
It has a good consistency, but personally, I think I will stop using it when my mini grease gun runs out. It separates and leaks and bleeds all over way too easily. Guys on here that use it in their suspension notice a similar thing. Bleeding red in their garage or my tool box. Not to mention I am getting suspicious of how well it works for wheel bearings at work, but that's not my call, they buy it in 10 5gal pails at a time.
I think it may leak out too fast in my impact, but notice it burns and smells horrid in wheel bearing hubs. A "spoiled milk" odor. It was free, so I used it and keep it greased regularly, but I am going to go buy some composite stuff as soon as mini greaser runs empty.
trboxman
Well-known member
I quit using the red Mobile synthetic grease for similar reasons, that **** bled everywhere way too quickly. That can't speak well for longevity.