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What to look for in a cherry picker (engine hoist)?

Air_Cooled_Nut

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I have to remove the transaxle from my front engined car. In the past, to remove the engine I simply lift the rear of the car and pull the engine out from underneath -- my previous cars have been old VWs and Porsches. So having a car with the engine in front is sorta new for me but it's the perfect excuse to get a new tool! :bounce: I figure it will also come in handy for the day I finally get a 2-post lift ;)

So what should I look for in terms of options/functionality? Brand recommendations? TIA :beer:
 
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SgtRauksauff

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I like the kind with legs that fold up, storage is MUCH easier then. I don't think that there really are a lot of "options", over the years they've all been pretty much the same, just different colors. Some have ALL the casters swivel, some have fixed casters on the ends of the legs. Swivelling is kind of handy so you can make minute adjustments, but it can also be a PITA if the hoist rolls when you don't want it to.

Another thought, do you think you'd have the option to use a chain hoist? With a chain hoist, you don't have to deal with the valve on the hydraulic ram, which often turns pulling an engine into a 2-person job. And if you've got somebody else running the valve, you won't have to watch them crank it wide open and drop your engine, smashing the oil pan/snapping off sensors/wires.

In the end, how often do you think you'll use it? I see tons of them on Craigslist, a guy bought them to fix his problem, then sells'em cheap since he doesn't need it anymore. you could probably buy one for 50 bucks, then sell it for 50 bucks later on.....

--sarge
 

HAP

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Make sure the one you get has the cantilever bracing strap or bar stand-off centered above the cylinder lever connection point. If it is behind it even a little, you could experience a failure of the lift arm at the lever point. Saw some photos of this failure a while back. Wish I could explain it better.

HAP
 

mmb617

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I could be wrong but I think a lot of the newer front engine cars pull the transaxle the same way as the rear engine cars you mentioned, by dropping the engine cradle out from under the car.
 

Kentuckian

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Be sure you get one that has long enough legs and lift arm. Some short ones will not reach back far enough to pull the engine on a car with a long nose. Ask me how I know.
 

94legaleagle

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I've BUILT a couple of them for myself - one design feature I've learned to like (not sure if it available commercially or not) is extentable front legs

this is MOST important so that no matter how long you extend the boom out, so that the weight being lifted is always able to be kept to the REAR of the front wheels of the lift - if the weight being lifted is in FRONT of the front wheels of your lift, guess what, the back end of the lift is going to come off the floor!
 

trboxman

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I'd look for good clean welds.

I have one of the non folding types. I break it down into three major assemblies and stuff it behind a work bench when I don't need to use it. That takes up way less space than the folding ones do and it only takes about 15 minutes to get it all out and set back up by myself and as a hobbyist it's not like I use the thing once a day, or once a week, or even once a month....I just know I'd be continually moving and cursing at the folding ones for taking up space and being in the way.
 
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Air_Cooled_Nut

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Thanks guys. I found an adjustable 2-ton that was just posted this morning on Craig's List with extensible legs, used once, for $160 ;) Picking it up tonight.
 

DARK AGE 53

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Thanks guys. I found an adjustable 2-ton that was just posted this morning on Craig's List with extensible legs, used once, for $160 ;) Picking it up tonight.

Looks nice but I would prefer the legs go out at an angle, the one pictured looks like the legs go straight out instead of at an angle. Just my 2 cents worth.
 

trboxman

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I prefer them to be angled as well. It winds up making it useful for picking up more things than just engines. For instance I used mine to lift and move an 600lb gun safe from one side of my garage to the other, the safe fit neatly between the legs and would not have done so on most folding or straight legged lifts.
 

Steevo

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Make sure the one you get has the cantilever bracing strap or bar stand-off centered above the cylinder lever connection point. If it is behind it even a little, you could experience a failure of the lift arm at the lever point. Saw some photos of this failure a while back. Wish I could explain it better.

HAP

Here is an example of what Hap is referring to:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=194915
 
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Air_Cooled_Nut

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Steevo, thanks for the link. The one I'm getting looks exactly like the one in post #63. It looks like it won't have the bending issue. Besides, I'm just picking up a 2.0L four-banger :badteeth:

I understand about the *********** (don't we all, yuk yuk yuk) but this lift won't be used much and if it does become an issue I've got an itchy MIG-trigger finger
welder.gif
 

sberry

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Make sure the one you get has the cantilever bracing strap or bar stand-off centered above the cylinder lever connection point. If it is behind it even a little, you could experience a failure of the lift arm at the lever point. Saw some photos of this failure a while back. Wish I could explain it better.
HAP
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

To be honest, I have a HF engine hoist, works well.
If I was buying one today it would be the H
F one, it addresses the design issue in the first quote, has heavy material and the fit/finish and the welding is flawless. About 200$
 

sanddrag

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I've been quite happy with a Harbor Freight 2-ton crane. The casters it comes with are junk and were full of welding slag/grit but other than that, it works very well. I've lifted mills, lathes, big workbench tops, a giant bandsaw, and all sorts of things with it.
 

Falcon67

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Merkel, TX
I have a nice 2 ton China special - same as the Hf unit I imagine. It's red, got it at Pep Boys on sale for $99. Use the hell out of it, very nice tool.
 
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Air_Cooled_Nut

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Welp, I gots me a new tool! :bounce:

My closest friend couldn't help me transport it since his truck was down so I used my trusty VW Squareback (and I'll never do it again!). The location was close so I could take the empty side streets as I kept my speed slow and didn't want to disturb rush-hour traffic.

Here it is in my shop...
attachment.php
 

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Air_Cooled_Nut

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All packed up, waiting to get used.
attachment.php


The carabiner used to hold the load-leveler is only meant for storage and will not be used for normal operations.
 

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DARK AGE 53

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I don't know if you know it or not but you lost your rear bumper.:bounce:

Looks good but I would think about boxing in the problem area that's been discussed here before using it.
 

trbomax

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starvation lake,mi.
I have a big ole antique Carolina Shop Hand. Doesnt fold but does retract. Its a 5000 lb capacity and the boom will lift almost strait up.I pick it up with the forks and hang it on the wall when its not in use (and I can get to the wall!).
 

sberry

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My Bud has the HF folder, super tool at that price and he needs to save the room. I have a bit larger one and have even added an extension, this is old pic, has been worked on with hangers for accys etc.
Couple of my men rigging a plow with it. Will reach maybe 9 or 10 ft in the air.
 

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socapots

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Canada
Thats a nice lift you found yourself there.

I could be wrong but I think a lot of the newer front engine cars pull the transaxle the same way as the rear engine cars you mentioned, by dropping the engine cradle out from under the car.

And he is right. Front wheel drive cars the transaxle and engine usually come out as one assembly... and most always from the bottom.

you will probably be disconnecting the struts (from the top mounts) and all the sub frame. then lay it on the ground.. and lift the body off the assembly.
 

mx757

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used live Texas
I'd look for good clean welds.

I have one of the non folding types. I break it down into three major assemblies and stuff it behind a work bench when I don't need to use it. That takes up way less space than the folding ones do and it only takes about 15 minutes to get it all out and set back up by myself and as a hobbyist it's not like I use the thing once a day, or once a week, or even once a month....I just know I'd be continually moving and cursing at the folding ones for taking up space and being in the way.

I have the same.. but I made a plate, welded steel stud to plate and used lag bolts to hang it on the wall... when I'm done with picker I break it down and hang it on the wall
 

brownbagg

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Mar 20, 2006
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i got the HF 2 ton fold up, and it ok, its great for the price, just wish the clyinder was quicker to pump up. be great to have an hydraulic pump on it
 
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Air_Cooled_Nut

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I don't know if you know it or not but you lost your rear bumper.:bounce:
Hehehe, yeah, I didn't like the late-model bumper so I took it off. Makes getting the drivetrain in/out easier! I would eventually like to put an early model bumper on as they aren't as fat.

Looks good but I would think about boxing in the problem area that's been discussed here before using it.
This unit has that area re-enforced :rocker:A piece of place on each side. It's also what the top of the ram is bolted to.
 
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Air_Cooled_Nut

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Thats a nice lift you found yourself there.



And he is right. Front wheel drive cars the transaxle and engine usually come out as one assembly... and most always from the bottom.

you will probably be disconnecting the struts (from the top mounts) and all the sub frame. then lay it on the ground.. and lift the body off the assembly.
For the Mk.III it's easiest to remove the front of the car and pull the everything straight out the nose! Not a difficult job. According to the shop manual, all I really need is an engine support beam. However, a cherry picker will be more useful in the long run.
 
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Air_Cooled_Nut

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From that other site thread, here's where the hoist failed, the point just behind the upper mounting bracket:
attachment.php

If you look at my unit you'll see there's a length of steel from that mounting point all the way to the back of the arm (one on each side):
attachment.php


So that would further keep the arm from folding down.

I believe the best thing to do is always use the shortest arm length possible, that way there's less leverage working against the arm PLUS the inner (black) arm would help strengthen the outer (red) arm.
 

Joe69

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Muncie, Indiana
I've had mine since the 80's. It's the original non-folding type. It's in my way more than I use it. I may take it apart to store it, like a previous poster mentioned.
Lately, I've been thinking about getting a gantry crane, and getting rid of the cherry picker. We have 2 gantrys, and a cherry picker at work. The cherry picker almost never gets used.
Have you ever tried to crawl under a vehicle with a cherry picker in the way?

Joe
 
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Air_Cooled_Nut

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Joe, damn fine point! I did think about that. A gantry would be nice but I think that would get in my way far more often. Now, if the shop was set up like my buddies garage where the building had a gantry span the shop and was motorized to travel the length of the shop, of hellz yeah!
 

sberry

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They are not perfect for every job but I think it should be the first rigging tool a small garage should get, they do a lot of things and are so portable, allow one man to do many things easily that it took 2.
 

bhclark

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OHIO
I wish I could find a cheap one on Craigslist. Everyone around here seems to want more than the sale/coupon price at HFT for a used one....
 

Alchymist

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Hummnnnnnn...

Engine Hoist .....................Cherry Picker
 

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