Homemade toolbox (metal)

[Toolhorder]

Anyone make a metal toolbox yet? I'm thinking about designing one that's a combo box/bench. I saw a pretty good looking one at the flea market over the weekend. It was about as big as a Snap-on KRL761 but the drawers where on the end not across the front of the box. It has a nice top on in with heavy duty casters. The drawers were long and if you let them go they would slide back in slowly and self lock. The locks were spring loaded on the right side with a "L" latch that you pull out to open the drawer.
It was pretty heavy duty. I would have bought it if the guy selling it wasn't high with his price (typical storage unit swapper wanting too much $1500)

I should have taken a picture of it.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

I've seen several on the welding forums. Looks fairly simple. Box up your frame, install your slides, build your drawers, skin and install casters. Paint and put it all together.

It is on my 'to build eventually' list. Would be really simple with what I've already built. Go for and post some pics

 

[Toolhorder]

I've seen several on the welding forums. Looks fairly simple. Box up your frame, install your slides, build your drawers, skin and install casters. Paint and put it all together.

It is on my 'to build eventually' list. Would be really simple with what I've already built. Go for and post some pics

Well I don't have much for a welder right now or any other metal working tools but I am a dreamer. I was just so impressed with the one I saw at the flea market I thought wow I can do that better.
I want to make something a little different but just as good as any Snappy box. I'm thinking I want drawers that are taller or less skinny drawers, I want to incorporate some of the Montezuma style top boxes that have the pegs when you flip up the lid and I was also thinking of what a pain in the *** it is to move my current setup KRL761/791 w/locker. I was thinking about making mine with a built in trailer that way I can hitch it directly to my truck when I need to move it. I'm thinking of just two slots in the side that I can pin a receiver to when I need to move it or have it fold forward like on cars that are towed behind RV's.
Right now if I move my box I rent a low boy metal trailer from Uhaul and even rolling it up on a low boy kills me. I figure if it was solid enough to be it's own trailer too well I'll be ahead of the game there.

 

[Tripp P.]

These are my homemade boxes. I was 20 when I built the black box. I don't think I would do it again. Not unless it was totally custom to the space it was going in.

 

[Toolhorder]

These are my homemade boxes. I was 20 when I built the black box. I don't think I would do it again. Not unless it was totally custom to the space it was going in.

Why wouldn't you make another? Is it just a ton of work?
Just curious.

Maybe I should just build a customer trailer to haul my toolbox with some innovative way of getting it on the trailer or something. It takes at least 4 people to push on one side and pull on the other to get my box moving.

 

[Tripp P.]

It was just way to much work. My big box is all welded constuction, drawers too. Its made out of .062 plate around a 1in tube frame. Its a tank. The brown box is all bent and rivets. That one still needs drawer fronts. I don't mean to be discuraging in any way. I just don't what to tackle a job that big anymore. I love that big box its served me well for 12 years now. I'm just going to change the wheels under it so it moves easier. I did think about a hitch for the hi-lo when I was working out of it everyday.

Tripp

 

[NUTTSGT]

Nice boxes Tripp. Is that an aquarium on the larger box ?

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Tripp, that's a great box

Why wouldn't you make another? Is it just a ton of work?

I know you directed this one at Tripp but I'd like to answer it as well if you don't mind.

It is a ton of work. On my 10' workbench I just finished up I went with a tool box built in design. My frame is 2x4 construction, but the drawers are 16ga sheet on 100lb drawer slides. The drawers were very work intensive. I even built a sheetmetal brake so I could build the drawers. Took me a couple months but I'm really slow Once you get the process down for the first time it goes much quicker.

The above being said I will build a full tool box one day. But I'd probably cheat a little bit and use the drawers and slides I already have.


Smart idea to put a heavy box on casters. I don't know that I'd go so far as to build it into a tow worthy unit. I think that's asking for some complications. The frame and overall structure would need to be overbuilt to handle the responsibility of riding on the roadway with other drivers. Should a wheel fall off or something come apart, you're looking at a lot of liability.


Don't know if it helps or not but when I was little I remember my mom always moving furniture around. That was back when a big chest of drawers was 5' tall huge wooden structures that was so sturdy it could probably hold a car. They were heavy. Mom would simply pull each drawer and set them aside while she moved the structure on its own. Then when she had the chest where she wanted it, she put the drawers back in. If I ever plan to move my workbench I WILL be pulling drawers. Might be easier when moving your box around in the same location. But going offsite will take some extra room or two trips. But it will get the job done to break it into smaller portions when you need to.

 

[machine_punk]

Great looking drawer units, Tripp & GirlnGarage...

I think I'd stay away from the 'tool box as a trailer idea.' It is an interesting concept, but probably not that practical in day-to-day use. If you only rarely need to move your tool box, I'd suggest hiring a flat-bed tow truck...or borrow an idea from one, and use an electric winch of some sort to pull your box onto the trailer. If you routinely need to move your tool box, I'd think you would be better off building it permanently into something else, which is already built to move (building it into a truck body, back of a van, or a trailer).

I am definitely planning on building my own drawer storage unit (but made of bent aluminum and solid rivets, instead of welding--you can see the sorts of projects I build on the thread in my signature).

I'd like to add a couple of questions to this thread, if the OP doesn't mind (since they relate to the original topic)...

- What did you use for drawer slides? That seems to be the most expensive part of the project. Are the 100 pound slides enough for the average drawer (is it 100 pounds per slide, or 100 pounds per pair?) You see the Lista cabinets with someone standing in the drawer...that would seem to be 200 pound drawer slides at least, or more than 1 set of slides per drawer. Any good resources for slides that you guys have used?

- Did you get any special options on the slides (full extension, beyond full extension, soft-close, locking, etc.)?

- How deep (drawer front to drawer back) did you make your drawers. This seems to range from 18" to 24" on commercial box drawers. Do you like your depth? (I know that I have avoided the HF 13-drawer box ONLY because the narrow drawers...there is more than enough depth for one row of tools, but not enough depth to lay out two rows of tools).

- How wide are your full-length drawers? 56" seems to be the practical limit on the drawer length. I suspect a drawer much wider than that would have a difficult time holding a bunch of heavy tools and could 'fold up' in the middle.

Thanks.

 

[Tripp P.]

Thanks machine_punk, I'll try and answer all of those.

Big box:
slides came from MacMaster Carr, 18in full extension
long drawers are 42 x 18, small drawers 14 x 18
Don't remember over all size can get it when I'm home

Brown box:
slides came from Lowes, 16in full extension
drawers are 16 x 16

I think all the slides are 100lbs rated. The big box has casters rated to 700lbs each.

I do wish I would have made the big box 20in deep in the drawers. Also could have used one more skinny drawer. The 42 in length was kind of determined by tooling. A standard 3 in 1 sheet metal press is only 40 in long. And thats what I had avalible to bend the diamond plate faces.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

I'd like to add a couple of questions to this thread, if the OP doesn't mind (since they relate to the original topic)...

- What did you use for drawer slides? That seems to be the most expensive part of the project. Are the 100 pound slides enough for the average drawer (is it 100 pounds per slide, or 100 pounds per pair?) You see the Lista cabinets with someone standing in the drawer...that would seem to be 200 pound drawer slides at least, or more than 1 set of slides per drawer. Any good resources for slides that you guys have used?

I used 100lb slides from GlideRite (on Ebay). Knape and Voight (KV) and AccuRide are the other two I'd consider. They are more exspensive though. Which helped me make my decision for GlideRite. Time will tell how they hold up. So far I am pleased. IIRC 100lb rating is for the pair.

- Did you get any special options on the slides (full extension, beyond full extension, soft-close, locking, etc.)?

I used full extension, especially that my drawers were very shallow. Without full extension getting into the very back of the drawer to get a tool or put back a tool would be very tight to impossible without moving other items around in front.

- How deep (drawer front to drawer back) did you make your drawers. This seems to range from 18" to 24" on commercial box drawers. Do you like your depth? (I know that I have avoided the HF 13-drawer box ONLY because the narrow drawers...there is more than enough depth for one row of tools, but not enough depth to lay out two rows of tools).

I went 19" deep drawers and 18" slides. Bench top is a full 24" wide but I use a 2" overhang on the front in case I have to clamp things. So my OA frame is 22". But the way I built the center area of the frame was slightly narrower. With a 19" drawer it would leave room on the front for drawer pulls and still be set back from the front face of the work bench. I did not want to be clipping my knees on the corners of the pulls when working or walking by. Using 18" slides allowed me to set back the slides even with the back of the drawer. The slides on the side of the drawers would be a little less noticeable when looking from the front.

- How wide are your full-length drawers? 56" seems to be the practical limit on the drawer length. I suspect a drawer much wider than that would have a difficult time holding a bunch of heavy tools and could 'fold up' in the middle.

My big drawers are 26" wide and smaller are 20" wide. I felt that was as wide a span I should try with 16ga sheet and no frame or rolled lip on the drawers for more support. You will get a little sag in the middle after loading tools. Account for that by spacing the drawers enough from the start. I'm happy with the drawer width and depth. I can fit my largest breaker bar in there at 24". If I went diagonal in a drawer I could store long stuff but I haven't had to do that.

Thanks.

My answers in blue

 

[toolmaker1]

The trailer idea is a good one with a small caveat. If it were me I would build or buy the small trailer and find or build a rolling box that could be winched into the trailer with a boat trailer winch. This way you would have much more versatility. Hell you could even make the trailer enclosed to keep the tool box out of the weather and maybe use some underbody toolboxes attached together on one side of the trailer to store some bulkier items and winch the roller up back to back with them and strap it in to keep it stable.

 

[Toolhorder]

Great looking drawer units, Tripp & GirlnGarage...

I think I'd stay away from the 'tool box as a trailer idea.' It is an interesting concept, but probably not that practical in day-to-day use. If you only rarely need to move your tool box, I'd suggest hiring a flat-bed tow truck...or borrow an idea from one, and use an electric winch of some sort to pull your box onto the trailer. If you routinely need to move your tool box, I'd think you would be better off building it permanently into something else, which is already built to move (building it into a truck body, back of a van, or a trailer).

Well I had my box flat bed towed once and it was horrible. The straps would loosen up while going down the road unless you strap them so hard it damages the lid of my box. The tow guy used the winch and "hooks" around my casters which slightly bent them inward. On delivery the locker was dragged across the flat bed until it popped completely off the main box. Just a nightmare. I'll NEVER flat bed a box again. I can't even imagine what would have happened if I wasn't there during the whole thing. No matter what you do a box is going to get some damage when you move it. It's murphy's law I guess.
The low boy trailers at Uhaul work good just can't get the box up the ramp onto it and they usually have grooves or whatever and aren't perfectly flat bottomed which is a pain in the *** when your casters aren't lined up good.
I don't plan on moving the box much but I generally don't stay in one shop too long AND I'm planning on leaving CA. to live in the USA soon so I'll be moving all my tools. I figured making a trailer toolbox would be pretty badass.

I am definitely planning on building my own drawer storage unit (but made of bent aluminum and solid rivets, instead of welding--you can see the sorts of projects I build on the thread in my signature).

I'm thinking of building the whole box out of Alum. to save weight. I used to work as a package handler for a air freight company and I was thinking it would look like a tug tote or something when I was done. All Alum. and able to be trailered.


Oh and I have a couple sets of new Accuride slides that are probably rated pretty good already or I was going to just call Accuride and buy some from them. I was thinking 200 LB slides and running 2 a drawer on the bigger drawers just like my KRL has.
The drawers are definitely going to be taller so I can fit every wrench I have from 6MM-40MM standing up on the side. No flat laying wrenches that just wastes space.
More room for "kits" in blow molded cases too. Maybe an integrated cart that pops out?

I dunno still brainstorming.

Haven't even decided what welder I'm getting but I'm leaning on a Miller 211 right now. I only have 110 at the house.

 

[thetucks]

heres a couple pics of my box I made. nothing fancy but it serves its purpose.

 

[jasonreck71]

heres a couple pics of my box I made. nothing fancy but it serves its purpose.

Nothing fancy...HA that thing is awesome...I would love a stack of drwers like that, nice work

 

[machine_punk]

That is fabulous! Great job. Do you remember any details about your drawer slides? Do you remember any details about the build (I chose to do this, because of this, and it worked/didn't work).

 

[Krokodil]

Wow! That is a great job you did on the box build!

 

[dittle fart around]

heres a couple pics of my box I made. nothing fancy but it serves its purpose.

Do your drawers have sides? The picture before the sheet metal exterior doesn't show any. Great looking box!

 

[thetucks]

thanks for the comments... yes the drawers have slide. If I build another one ill use different slides then I did on this one. I use this box everyday and I just used regular drawer slides. they work fine but I can tell they wont hold as much weight as the slides trip used in his. In the second picture you can see the white slides mounted to the frame. This box is very solid and there is tons of drawers to put tools in. thanks

 

[Toolhorder]

I'm going to get some pictures of the box I saw last week and try and google sketch my idea. Maybe you guys could give me some feedback to help me along.

 

[thetucks]

oh man i just reread that post. you asked if they had sides not slides, lol. yes but they are only half the height of the fronts. thats all they need.

 

[Toolhorder]

I got a couple of great ideas for my custom tool box. I'm thinking of two double bank boxes now that are attached to each other with some hinges so the boxes can be pushed together effectively keeping the drawers from opening during transport. When not transported they can be pushed apart and locked into one big 4 bank box. When it's folded into itself for transport both ends will have square tubing and in the middle they can be pinned locking them together and on the other end I can add wheels and pin them to the box. This will be on the back when folded, in the front I'll have the same thing but I'll attach a hitch reciever to the tubing too which will allow the box to towed behind any truck.
I'm still wanting to make it from Alum. unless it's not able to hold everything or too expensive?

 

[machine_punk]

It just occurred to me also...that you could build lift points into your frame (or at least threaded inserts, so you can put in lift rings, when neeeded), so you could use an engine lift/crane to put your box on a trailer.

The 'swing closed' idea is interesting (just make sure you plan for the drawer pulls!). WOW...a 4-bank box...that is going to be huge.

 

[Toolhorder]

It just occurred to me also...that you could build lift points into your frame (or at least threaded inserts, so you can put in lift rings, when neeeded), so you could use an engine lift/crane to put your box on a trailer.

The 'swing closed' idea is interesting (just make sure you plan for the drawer pulls!). WOW...a 4-bank box...that is going to be huge.

Yeah well it's one thing to dream it though and quite another to make it!

 

[Toolhorder]

Here's some pics of that homemade box I found at the flea,

 

[machine_punk]

I know this isn't quite where you were going with this thread, but I am getting ready to build this metal tool box and teach my oldest stepson, and a friend of his, to build one too...
View media item 12216

 

[Toolhorder]

I know this isn't quite where you were going with this thread, but I am getting ready to build this metal tool box and teach my oldest stepson, and a friend of his, to build one too...
View media item 12216

That looks sweet

 

[Toolhorder]

Anyone else build one?

 

[Link-Belt]

I am planning on building a single intermediate chest for my HF 44". I'll.cheat though and order the long deep drawer and rails from them.

Only flaw I can see in your fold up 4 bank towable box is hopefully you don't plan on pulling it down the road on casters? The build of that type box is clearly possible.but your suspention is going to need some planning.

 

[nine4gmc]

i should take pics before i start projects but at least i remember halfway though.

i just made my own tool box by gutting a datamation notebook security cart, cutting down a steelcase 6 drawer lateral filing cabinet and welding it inside. then i took the metal plate off the bottom of the cart and sandwiched a formica/mdf lab table between it and the original top of the cart for a solid work surface. finally i built a 2" steel tubing ladder frame underneath to carry the weight and mount the casters on. the doors are off for painting, i have made three trips to lowes and bought 3 colors, cant decide...

here are some pics, i will start a thread soon as i have repurposed lots of other cabinets as well. the first two pics are not mine, just representative of what i started with.

 

[nine4gmc]

and these. the drawers in the file cabinet were rated at 165 lbs each, heavy duty ball bearing sliders.

 

[lilredex]

Not quite what you were looking for but neat...

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=430933&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

 

[KCarGuy]

I "Almost" Build my own.
What I did was take a Very Heavy Steel "Parts Bin" that already had a lid with HD Hinges, and some wheels welded in a recessed area and turn it into a Tool Box/Tool Cart.

Took a Cheap Craftsman 3 drawer Toolbox, and cut the top off of it...
Cut a square hole in the front on the Box and welded the cut down Craftsman in place...
Welded some Square Tubing in place and added casters...
then cut and bent some shelves...
Cut, bent and welded up a Removable Tool Tray...
Added an Outdoor outlet and 50 feet of Cord...
Bend and welded up my own Folding Tray...
Added a Handle...
And Bought a Used Side Box from one of our GJ Members and welded it in place.

Its a "Tank" and all old parts that were laying around.
I have about $50 into it.

 

[fergus]

i should take pics before i start projects but at least i remember halfway though.

i just made my own tool box by gutting a datamation notebook security cart, cutting down a steelcase 6 drawer lateral filing cabinet and welding it inside. then i took the metal plate off the bottom of the cart and sandwiched a formica/mdf lab table between it and the original top of the cart for a solid work surface. finally i built a 2" steel tubing ladder frame underneath to carry the weight and mount the casters on. the doors are off for painting, i have made three trips to lowes and bought 3 colors, cant decide...

here are some pics, i will start a thread soon as i have repurposed lots of other cabinets as well. the first two pics are not mine, just representative of what i started with.

That is TIGHT! I have a five drawer lateral cabinet I've been wondering what to do with after I'm done using it for storage. I think I've just found the answer.

 

[bts]

Still a bit to do yet.
Should make some good storage space under a couple of my work beches.

 

[nine4gmc]

That is TIGHT! I have a five drawer lateral cabinet I've been wondering what to do with after I'm done using it for storage. I think I've just found the answer.

thanks man, i have been on the lookout for more with the same doors as mine so i can build another one. i see them(lateral cabinets) at auction every month but the door handles are different and im kinda **** about some things...

 

[theoldwizard1]

I have heard that a lot of the guys working in race car shops (think NASCAR) have made their own. Typically from stainless.

Of course they have access to shears, brakes, presses, tig welders, etc.

 

[sberry]

I love the ones built from salvage or bought at fleas for the basics. Here is my take on building. Boxes can be had for a grand or less, good ones, I don't recall but that HF or General, whatever it is, super nice for the price. If I was considering a scratch build and comparing it to a 8 or 10 grand box off the truck it would push me to build, one guy in one of the threads said,, 12 days or so, ok, 2 or even 3 weeks, even a grand in materials etc, still a couple a grand a week for the effort.

Be well worth taking off work to build it. In reality would likely be looking over the economy line. You could somewhat compete against the hi end doing a build but not against the low.

The first, a box I pay 75 for, is heavy but I am not in the drawers like a madman. The second, storage for tools with occasional use, extra extras, some specialty sets, we can get if needed but out of the way and out of general circulation. 3rd, old boxes, specialty tools, most we built, pullers, specialty tools we cant lose. A 10 grand box wouldn't help any one of these schemes.

 

[tornadocaster]

I know its not a tool box, but I've been working on a tool cabinet to get as much as I can off of the ground and onto the wall in front of my workbench.
I've made it a prototype and want to use the general construction of it as a template for anything else I will build for the garage such as shelving and display cases for my models.

 

[racingtadpole]

I posted in the Solid Rivets 101 thread that I was watching because I have a project that will likely involve them.

That project is a roll cab size box with a bench top on it. Currently a concept in my head and a series of part finished Sketch-up drawings. I did have one drawing just about finished but after talking with a mate over the weekend I have decided to alter the construction detail which renders that drawing useless now.

Planning on detailing its construction here in the Fab and Techniques sub forum.

Right..its out there now. I'll get the drawings done and start a thread in the next week or so.