Compressor valve tool

[mrpizza]

Does anyone have a quincy compressor valve retainer tool? Its the socket with the two splines on it to take the valve retainer out. Or does anyone know what to build one out of that will work? I have three that are stuck real bad, I am doing heating a pb blaster back and forth to try and loosen em up some. They are horribly stuck! I really need help here, I spent all my compressor allowance on this old thing and if i can't get it going, then I won't have a compressor and will have wasted my money. I will certainly pay to use it! Please help!

Its the QT200 tool i believe.

 

[olytdi]

Free bump!

 

[Carla]

Miles,

Could you post a good clear close-up photo of the parts you are trying to move, and the dimensions of the tool needed?

cheers

Carla

 

[mrpizza]

Absolutely, give me a few minutes. I'll try and get a few with calipers on there, and post a link to the tool as well. I need this thing bad, my wife is pissed saying i wasted my "compressor money!"

 

[mrpizza]

Ok, here are the pictures. I have three of them, one of the OD of the threads, one of the OD of the valve inside, and one of the width of the opening for the valve retainer slots. Just in case someone wants to machine something and help a guy out. I'll pay, and then pass it around if anyone else needs it pro bono. Without further ado.....


The first picture is of the calipers measuring the outside diameter of the threads of the valve holder. 1.612" (Thats approximate. All of these measurements are! My brown and sharpe calipers were last calibrated in 2005, but they seem to be very accurate against bolts and sockets and things.)


Untitled by milesvdustin, on Flickr

Next pic is of the OD of the valve body itself. 1.155" by my caliper.


Untitled by milesvdustin, on Flickr

Third, the width of the opening of the slots in the valve retainers. 1.314".


Untitled by milesvdustin, on Flickr


The height measurement of the valve retainers from the deck of the head where the valve cap seals to the top is .35".

If anyone is thinking of making one, you would be awesome. Most places I have seen want 180 dollars or more for one of these tools. I can't go near that, as I am in the military and the government keeps us barely paid, but I can deal. I thought I could take my money set aside and fix this thing up, but I feel like I have screwed myself here. Shoulda got the campbell hausfeld vertical tank..........

 

[Provincial]

I have made similar tools with a junk socket (impacts are best because of no chrome and thick walls), an abrasive cutoff tool, an angle grinder, and a lot of patience. Find a socket that has an OD and ID near what you need, lay out the ears with a scribe and cut away the excess. Leave yourself some meat to dress with a file. Dress the OD (not necessary in your application) and ID with your grinders, as these dimensions are less critical. Try to keep the ID concentric with the retainer.

The important thing is to get the ears square so they don't want to slip out of the slots in the retainers. I use a T-handle to get a uniform torque applied to both slots. It helps to apply down pressure to help hold the ears into the slots.

Another way to do this is to weld a piece of square stock across the mouth of a socket, then cut away the center of the square stock to allow it to fit down into the slots. This requires a welder, while the other method can be done entirely by hand tools, if given enough time!

P.S. I think the slots are .314, not 1.314!

 

[mrpizza]

P.S. I think the slots are .314, not 1.314!

Haha you are absolutely correct, I think in my fog of anger last night I added a 1 to it. I will try the impact socket thing, should I use an impact gun to take it out? I can get access to a t handle or impact.

 

[mrpizza]

Alright, so I made my own tool from a harbor freight Pittsburgh pro 27 mm deep impact socket. It works like a fuc*?n champ! Thank you for suggesting it. If anyone needs to borrow it ill ship it to you. Here are some pics, took me about fifteen minutes to make it.

Untitled by milesvdustin, on Flickr

And the retainer on the tool

Untitled by milesvdustin, on Flickr

 

[trboxman]

That, my friend, is some super awesomeness!

What did you use to make the cuts? It looks like you did a good job of keeping pretty precise dimensions.

 

[mrpizza]

I used my dremel tool with those real thin cut off discs. They cut through real nice. I cut the slots on each side of the socket then took the edges down. Then i measured it out and sized the tabs with a file. On a side note, I will say that the HF Pittsburgh pro stuff is very nice quality.

 

[Provincial]

Glad it worked well for you! Once you know what you are going to do, it is actually pretty simple.

 

[mrpizza]

Thanks again!

 

[930dreamer]

Good job on the socket.

 

[Hank McMauser]

I love it when a plan comes together

 

[mrpizza]

Yeah, this plan came together awesomely. I chucked the head in my vise and got my 25" breaker bar out and those retainers didn't stand a chance in hell! Now I just have to degrease this thing and get it all cleaned up to put back together and then prime and paint. I will be doing a writeup on the whole restoration process of this antique! Now that I got those retainers out I have a renewed drive to get this completed. I was pretty discouraged the other day!

 

[bad_idea]

this post is right on time. I have a Quincy 325 pump under my bench waiting a rebuild. I planned on making a tool to take the retainers apart but wasn't sure how to. I would like to know more about your pump, they have turned into a bit of an obsession to me. Have you seen these videos? A lot of info.

watch that first one and it links to the next and the next and the.....

 

[mrpizza]

I have watched those. The 310 is different than the 325. The 310 has a cap that screws over the retainer. The retainer holds the valve in and the cap on. The 325 have a plate with four nuts that holds the valve in and a cap over that. I don't think you need a tool like this to take that pump apart. I will watch again to be sure.

Ok so it does appear that the unloader screws onto a similar ring in the cap, and it didn't look like he even took it out of that cap. It should fit, the tool online says it will work on a 308/310/325 pumps, so if you need to borrow it lemme know. It's way cheaper to make then mail back and forth though, but anyone is welcome to borrow it.

 

[mrpizza]

Also, I plan on using anti seize on all the threads when it goes back together, but what can I use on the valve bodies to prevent all the rust?

 

[bad_idea]

I was able to dissassemble the pump without the tool, just pull the four bolts. But for reassembly I will need the tool. I appreciate the offer to mail yours, but it shouldn't take me but a few to make one.

I am thinking with routine use and care the rust shouldn't be such an issue on the valve bodies. Also I think some threads should get loktite rather than antiseize.

 

[joestewart]

Hey Dustin, I know this is an ancient thread, but all your photos of the tool that you made have expired and are non-viewable. I have a 325 pump and a 308 pump that I would like to go through. I am needing the tool for the valves. I checked the prices on a new tool and just about had a heart attack. Would love to make one the way that you made yours. I hope you are still out there somewhere. Please re-post the photos of your tool. I will stop at HF and get one of those 27mm Pittsburgh Pro sockets. Can't wait. Thanks

 

[TonyJ]

Hey Dustin, I know this is an ancient thread, but all your photos of the tool that you made have expired and are non-viewable. I have a 325 pump and a 308 pump that I would like to go through. I am needing the tool for the valves. I checked the prices on a new tool and just about had a heart attack. Would love to make one the way that you made yours. I hope you are still out there somewhere. Please re-post the photos of your tool. I will stop at HF and get one of those 27mm Pittsburgh Pro sockets. Can't wait. Thanks

On the 325 you don’t need a special tool to take the valves apart. On the 308 I haven’t been into and see how their made.


Tony

 

[joestewart]

Thanks for that. I have purchased the 27mm socket that Dustin recommended and will proceed to carve it with a dremel and see if I come up with a usable tool. The sockets are $5 apiece, as opposed to ~$170 (incl shipping & tax) for the "official" tool.

 

[TonyJ]

Thanks for that. I have purchased the 27mm socket that Dustin recommended and will proceed to carve it with a dremel and see if I come up with a usable tool. The sockets are $5 apiece, as opposed to ~$170 (incl shipping & tax) for the "official" tool.

I re read the whole thread and I see now that it’s not the valves your taking apart themselves but instead the valve ring under the towers to the valve plate. The tool I made is much like what your going to do with the 27mm socket but instead of going over the ring I went inside of it. I just found a socket that fit snug on the inside and then marked where the notches were onto the socket then cut the socket out then I made the socket notches .25” deeper and laid a piece of 1/4” bar stock across the slots then slide the socket over it and it all held in very nicely. However you make it be sure to keep it cause that is also how you re torque the valves back down when putting it back together


Tony

 

[TonyJ]

I re read the whole thread and I see now that it’s not the valves your taking apart themselves but instead the valve ring under the towers to the valve plate. The tool I made is much like what your going to do with the 27mm socket but instead of going over the ring I went inside of it. I just found a socket that fit snug on the inside and then marked where the notches were onto the socket then cut the socket out then I made the socket notches .25” deeper and laid a piece of 1/4” bar stock across the slots then slide the socket over it and it all held in very nicely. However you make it be sure to keep it cause that is also how you re torque the valves back down when putting it back together


Tony

If you use a socket that goes on the inside of the ring it makes it allot more stable than trying to hold a socket flush against the top


Tony

 

[csp]

I did this recently and made a tool with a socket and angle grinder.

It's not a big deal to make one. Mark the socket with a sharpie and slowly approach the final fit.

 

[joestewart]

Tony, can you post a photo of your tool? Thanks

 

[TonyJ]

Tony, can you post a photo of your tool? Thanks

Your ring looks like this. I took a 1/2drive cheap socket that fit snug inside the ring. The notches on the ring you can use to mark the socket then like others have said use an angle grinder or a cut off tool and cut the socket from the bottom end up the sides far enough to where you can lay a 1/4” Bar stock across the notches then lower the socket over the 1/4 bar down into the ring and there you go instant tool. Once you see how it fits and make any adjustments as needed you can have the bar stock welded to the socket and you will have a tool that will fit any of the quincys that has the unloader towers. Like the 230,240,325 and many many others. I don’t have my tool or my Quincy anymore but it’s very easy and very cheap to make



Tony

 

[joestewart]

Great, the photo and explanation helped a lot. Will proceed. Thank you!

 

[TonyJ]

Great, the photo and explanation helped a lot. Will proceed. Thank you!

Your welcome. As some of the other ppl has said you can use a bigger socket and go over the ring and also make the slots and it’ll work too but to me I liked the inside socket so that with the socket being snug on the inside of the ring it has less chances of slipping. And using a 1/2 drive socket you can use a 1/2 breaker bar and 1/2 torque wrench for removal and installation. Their usually not that stubborn but ya just never know


Tony

 

[dnschmidt]

Just asking but doesn't Quincy make such a tool for purchase? They're still in business. Can't you just call them up and order one or would that be considered cheating?

 

[TonyJ]

Just asking but doesn't Quincy make such a tool for purchase? They're still in business. Can't you just call them up and order one or would that be considered cheating?

They do have a tool. For a little over $100. And one can be made for less than $5 lol.


Tony

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

They do have a tool. For a little over $100. And one can be made for less than $5 lol.


Tony

This is the OEM model with removable bushing...

https://store.industrialairpower.com/6664N-Tool_p_17162.html

 

[TonyJ]

This is the OEM model with removable bushing...



https://store.industrialairpower.com/6664N-Tool_p_17162.html

$157 that’s crazy. And people will buy it I’m sure


Tony

 

[dnschmidt]

What's all the extra pieces for? I see the basic socket thingy but what's the pilot with a ball bearing and the little pecker sticking out of the middle do?

 

[TonyJ]

What's all the extra pieces for? I see the basic socket thingy but what's the pilot with a ball bearing and the little pecker sticking out of the middle do?

No clue. The 6664n is the tool listed above and it has a lonnnng list of compressors it’s used on so maybe it’s a tool that does more than one job and maybe only on a few models that the middle part is used



Tony

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

It can be used on either suction OR discharge valve holddown screws. Pilot spacer is removed when using on suction valves and the center pilot is inserted into the center hole of the suction valve. Replace the pilot spacer onto the center pilot when used on discharge valves. The ball bearing detent holds the spacer from falling off.

 

[joestewart]

Well, I can't post a link because I have fewer than 5 posts. But the one I was looking at was on mastertoolrepair dot com and it was $164.00 (including shipping).

No thanks. I'll make one.

 

[csp]

Helluva good option TonyJ!

Even though I've gone the route of socket on top already, I will make one the way you suggested for the 325 I have to rebuild.

 

[TonyJ]

It can be used on either suction OR discharge valve holddown screws. Pilot spacer is removed when using on suction valves and the center pilot is inserted into the center hole of the suction valve. Replace the pilot spacer onto the center pilot when used on discharge valves. The ball bearing detent holds the spacer from falling off.

That still must only be for certain models because the 230 240 and 325 and alike uses a Allen wrench or Allen socket for the discharge valves


Tony

 

[TonyJ]

Helluva good option TonyJ!

Even though I've gone the route of socket on top already, I will make one the way you suggested for the 325 I have to rebuild.

If the one you made that goes over the ring worked before I’d just use it again but however I think the socket inside the ring way gives more stability when torquing them back down. I’m just offering a cheap way of doing it and hopefully saving future lurking people of GJ some hard earned money on a simple tool that works


Tony