Why can't I see what I'm welding?

[bmwpower]

Using a low end Hobart welder with flux wire.
Trying to weld my exhaust, but when I start the weld, it's like I'm blind. I can't see where the bead is going. I don't know if it's the mask or just normal. I feel like I could do a much better job if I could see what was going on when I was actually welding instead of seeing the work for the first time when I pop the mask up.

Any ideas?

 

[ptschram]

I had the same problem until I bought an auto-darkening helmet.

It improved my welding immeasurably.

I do however find that if I'm not careful, I'm looking through the wrong part of my bi-focals...

 

[Sureshot]

Use more bright light on the work. Halogen work light.

 

[lametec]

Use a lighter shade lens. Also have some good light shining on the weld area. You can also try holding the gun in such a manner that it covers up the actual arc from your line of view.

Also, a friend of mine that's getting up there in age thought his eye sight was going out. He was unable to see clearly while welding. A bit of a problem for a guy who does it for a living. After months of struggling with it and even seeing a doctor about it, he figured out the problem. Turns out when he put a new lens in his welding mask, he forgot to remove the protective plastic from the one side.

 

[bmwpower]

Hmm. Let me go grab the helmet and see what the heck it is.

 

[bmwpower]

Here's what I'm using...

Sheeet. I assume this is supposed to be removed, eh?

 

[ptschram]

No, that is the protective cover to keep the glass covered and protected from the flying sparks.

There might be a piece of cling plastic on it though.

 

[bmwpower]

No, that is the protective cover to keep the glass covered and protected from the flying sparks.

There might be a piece of cling plastic on it though.

But it's the backside of the mask. Same deal?

 

[metaleltr]

Yeah that is supposed to be there. It can be difficult to weld with a fixed shade lens. Get an auto-dark. After some time behind an auto-dark you may be able to weld with an fixed shade but you will never want to go back to one.

 

[ptschram]

Yeah that is supposed to be there. It can be difficult to weld with a fixed shade lens. Get an auto-dark. After some time behind an auto-dark you may be able to weld with an fixed shade but you will never want to go back to one.

I put it off 20+ years.

I got one from H-F to try and see if I liked it. I dropped that one and broke it and got another from H-F.

My welding skills (which I'm pretty proud of to begin with) got MUCH better. If my eyes were better (and no, it's not because of the cheap helmet) I'd do even better.

 

[DYNA BILL]

I would not go lighter than a #10 (i.e. #9) or you are inviting flash burns. Not fun. Make sure your cover lens (the clear one on the outside) is clean and not scratched or yellowed. This clear plastic lens protects the glass shaded lens from pitting by welding sparks. As someone else said, try to direct some light on the article being welded.

 

[DCarr]

I have had the same issue. Aiming a light to the area to be welded is what I needed. That made a big difference.

 

[caper150]

you need one of these.
http://www.eastwood.com/mig-light.html

Been thinking of getting one myself.

 

[Drew_flux]

I would not go lighter than a #10 (i.e. #9) or you are inviting flash burns. Not fun. Make sure your cover lens (the clear one on the outside) is clean and not scratched or yellowed. This clear plastic lens protects the glass shaded lens from pitting by welding sparks. As someone else said, try to direct some light on the article being welded.

Im also of the opinion that 10# is low lowest you want to go for mig. I once used a 8# lens and though someone had rubed sand in my eyes durring the night.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

I use an auto darkening helmet and when I can't see the joint (and the helmet is set as light as I can go with out burning my eyes), a drop light is needed. That alone makes a HUGE difference.

Also consider switching to an auto darkening helmet. You can adjust shade and speed.

Those two alone will make a big improvement. And yeah, seeing the puddle is #1 to running a good bead. lol

 

[A29]

Been using a #9 for years. Some times still hard to see. ***** to get old.

 

[mjb]

I do however find that if I'm not careful, I'm looking through the wrong part of my bi-focals...

I had the same issue and find I can see the puddle better without my glasses. I'm sure I will need a magnifying lens at some point, but for now am good.

 

[dv8customs]

I prefere to use a #9 for MIG welding

 

[Rogue1987]

you need one of these.
http://www.eastwood.com/mig-light.html

Been thinking of getting one myself.

Thats a cool idea. I'm going to try to make one of those when I get some time.

 

[NUTTSGT]

My Hobart helmet has an adjustable shade, 9-13. I think there are time when the welder is set on a lower voltage that 9 is too dark. MY next helmet will be a Miller that is adjustable down to 8.

Make sure the outside protective lens is clean and free of fume stain or dust (whatever you call it). Once you put a new cover on your helmet, you may notice a difference. For a couple of bucks, it's money well spent.

 

[c201971]

i use to have a cheap hobart before i bought a nice miller and when the lens on the outside got to dirty it would be like welding without the helmet turning on and when i changed the lens it got better. another thing is like everyone else is saying gett some more light in the area that may help to.

 

[DHS]

Dad had the same problem, he got a auto lens and also a cheater lens.

 

[garfunkle24]

I prefere to use a #9 for MIG welding

There is no one correct shade for any process or user, but I guarantee you don't want to be maxing a 300A mig with a 9 shade. Be careful with your advice.

 

[stripped]

I noticed the same thing and the ambient light did seem to make a difference. I ask why once and I was told told it had to do with the color temperature of the spark vs the lights in the shop. I could have been given a line of BS. In all honesty most of us wore tinted safety glasses also so that might have been an issue but we kept on making sparks.

 

[lotsoftools]

I put a 2x magnifying lens in my helmet and that made a ton of difference for me.

 

[WILD-BILL]

I found that I'm having a problem with back light. I have so much lighting in the garage that it's causing a glare on the inside lens of the helmet.

I verified this by turning the lights off in the garage and that mad a world of difference in what I could see.

I'm going to make some kind of hood to act as a shade to keep the glare off the inside lens before my nest welding project.

 

[drewski]

Like others have said, a strong light on the weld area helps. In some instances I can't get a light to the area that I'm welding, so I rigged this redneck device from one of the free HF flashlights. I just bead rolled a rib in the middle of a piece of stainless to give it some strength, bent it in an arc, and added a couple of hose clamps . When I'm under a vehicle welding in a dark area, it helps. Kind of crude but it works for me.

Drew

 

[98TJ]

I had a problem sort of like that recently.

I was running the plasma cutter, grinder, and welder.

Switching between the three quite often.

Ended up wearing safety glasses, brazing goggles, and my auto-darkening welding helmet at the same time.

Got frustrated when I couldn't see to weld. That's when I realized I had the brazing goggles on and the shade flipped down.

 

[tcianci]

Same problems for me. I would end up with pretty good MIG beads, they just weren't anywhere near the place I was trying to weld! I gave up on my auto dark and put an 8 or 9 (can't remember, ***** getting old) and a cheater lens (***** going blind) in a fixed helmet and it's all been good since. I have the helmet marked "MIG ONLY" with big letters. I have been interested in a MIG light though. I find it's much easier to weld with the sunlight on the weld area. I do agree that you need to watch it when you're going to a lighter shade lens. My MIG work is usually pretty light stuff with low amperage. But don't get over confident. Energy in the dangerous spectrum is still emitted from any arc welding and you need to protect your eyes. I haven't suffered a welding flash since I was a kid and that was a really bad experience.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

I've rigged up a Mag light in awkward spots where I really needed it. Maybe I can glue headlights to my welding helmet.

Got frustrated when I couldn't see to weld. That's when I realized I had the brazing goggles on and the shade flipped down.

 

[98TJ]

 

[dv8customs]

There is no one correct shade for any process or user, but I guarantee you don't want to be maxing a 300A mig with a 9 shade. Be careful with your advice.

The OP stated he was using a low end Hobart welder. I think that rules out the 300A possibility. My advice was specific to the original question.

 

[NUTTSGT]

You're getting laughed at by a girl. wned2:

 

[98TJ]

I like to think she's laughing with me.

 

[ZRX61]

I found that I'm having a problem with back light. I have so much lighting in the garage that it's causing a glare on the inside lens of the helmet.

I verified this by turning the lights off in the garage and that mad a world of difference in what I could see.

I'm going to make some kind of hood to act as a shade to keep the glare off the inside lens before my nest welding project.

Thin leather flap works, & attach with snaps to the helmet to stop back lighting

 

[GirlnAgarage]

I like to think she's laughing with me.

I am. How many of us make totally goofy mistakes?? All of us! Then we have a Homer Simpson D'oh!

Thin leather flap works, & attach with snaps to the helmet to stop back lighting

I've been considering using a piece of suede. Backlighting haunts me as well but I only noticed when I weld in lower light/dusk recently.



BTW, any of yall wear welding caps? Where do you get quality ones from?

 

[IONH]

Like others have said, a strong light on the weld area helps. In some instances I can't get a light to the area that I'm welding, so I rigged this redneck device from one of the free HF flashlights. I just bead rolled a rib in the middle of a piece of stainless to give it some strength, bent it in an arc, and added a couple of hose clamps . When I'm under a vehicle welding in a dark area, it helps. Kind of crude but it works for me.

No lie, I was thinking about rigging something up very similar to this!

 

[NUTTSGT]

BTW, any of yall wear welding caps? Where do you get quality ones from?

I bought one that was like 3-4 bucks on sale at the welding supplier. I thought it would work and I could try out something cheap before I bought something more expensive. I still use 2 years later. It's just enough to keep the welding berries off the scalp.

 

[Buzzy]

Here is a trick for you. Use the #10 shade. Anything less I would be concerned of getting flashed. Take a soap stone and trace along the area to be welded. This will act like a movie screen when you weld. The soap stone will burn away before the area is welded, and will not contaminate the weld. It really helps. Check it out!!!!


I don't use an auto dark helmet. I have had more issues with these. Keep it simple. Just my opinion.

 

[danski0224]

I found that I'm having a problem with back light. I have so much lighting in the garage that it's causing a glare on the inside lens of the helmet.

I verified this by turning the lights off in the garage and that mad a world of difference in what I could see.

I'm going to make some kind of hood to act as a shade to keep the glare off the inside lens before my nest welding project.

+1.

Same problem here. By sealing off the top and part of the sides of the welding hood, it blocked stray arc light from reflecting in the hood.

I used part of my old fabric welding jacket. Do NOT use anything synthetic other than old welding clothes material.

I also used to use a #9, but I learned that I could see the puddle better with a #10.

And yes, there is a difference in auto-darkening welding hoods, just like there is a difference in fixed glass shades.

The best glass shade is a no longer made type of cobalt glass. NOS shades sell for several hundred dollars on ebay.

The weld looks different through a modern plain dark shade and a gold colored shade.

I had a very nice variable shade auto darkening hood. Had it for 10 years.

Then I bought a Miller Digital Elite.

World of difference, and the other hood was by no means cheap.

Bad fluorescent ballasts or mercury vapor lamps can trigger some auto darkening hoods, which can be quite irritating... but looking at a mercury vapor lamp through a #10 is pretty neat.