16" or 24" oc

[CanuckGT]

Ok,i'm not a carpenter so this is why I ask, went to the local building supply company for a quote on a stick built lumber package for my garage, first they asked 2x4 or 2x6 so I replied 2x6, next they asked 16" or 24" on center....well I assumed 16" but they said since it will be 2x6" walls you could go with 24" o/c which would save some $$... ...

So , I am asking all the pros here, is 24" o/c a good way to go? (shop is going to be 32x40x12

Thanks

 

[Falcon67]

From the been there file - decide on your siding first, then see what that mfg requires. 24" OC is fine even with 2x4 walls (maybe not to 12') but not if your siding requires 16" OC and you were not planning to cover the exterior with OSB. I used 24" OC with 2x4s and the Hardi install data required an double stud where the panel edges met if not done over an OSB sub-layer. If you are sheathing with OSB, then 2x6 on 24" should be fine.

Also - look at your insulation. Around here, 22 1/2" batts are a little hard to find sometimes because all new construction is typically 16" OC.

 

[paullie]

what he said ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[NitroPress]

24 OC is a cost-cutting measure that should be outlawed. If your budget is so tight as to have to squeeze out $2-300 in lumber, rethink the job. You can do all kinds of finish and upgrade down the road... but you can't ever (within reason) make it a stronger structure.

 

[darkk]

For the money difference, go 2x6 16"OC

 

[Motofixxer]

Calculate out the difference, I think mine came out to less than $100 difference. I was already going 16", but just wanted to know for conversational purposes.

 

[cderalow]

hell, you could probably shrink to 12" OC on the important walls (doors, bench area) and not end up all the worse for wear. lumber is comparatively cheap, it's the slightly larger labor costs that can (and will) ratchet things up.

If you're building it yourself, go 12" OC.

 

[hdossett]

Go with 16".

the 16" vs. 24" will effect everything from day one.

Do it right the first time (16"). You will never regret it.

H

 

[headwrench]

yes. go with the 16 on center. its only a matter of a dozen or so extra studs. now is the time to do it. if you dont do it now you will want to hire wiley coyote to build you an *** kicking machine to use on yourself later down the road. you cant go wrong building a little extra beef into your garage

 

[dirttracker18]

Go with 16".

the 16" vs. 24" will effect everything from day one.

Do it right the first time (16"). You will never regret it.

H

Good answer, I don't even like 24" oc on the roof. However most seem to do it that way. I would never go that route again.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

24"o/c is the maximum allowable spacing for 2X6 walls supporting roof and/or one habitable floor with a structural sheathing (OSB, or other approved).
The superior advantage to 24"o/c is thermal efficiency. Less studs means less thermal transference. And if you employ 'value engineering' principles you can improve the efficiency even better, and minimize your material cost even more- as I mentioned in a previous thread.

Remember, IRC is the minimum.

 

[brownbagg]

but with 24 you will get better insulation factor. The best way would build a 24 2x4 with 2 x6 sill and then stagger another wall on the inside so your insulation would be non irrupted.

 

[ForceFed70]

Just built my 32x40 and decided to go 2x6 24" OC.

I don't regret it a bit. Would do it again even if it was the same cost as going with 16" OC.

Like mentioned, you get better insulation. It's also easier to install the insulation, plumbing, and electrical.

I have not yet found a single downside to 24" OC. The only thing I can image as being a problem is less flexibility when it comes to finding studs for shelving, etc.

 

[rwhite692]

Just go with 2x4 on 16" centers. The cost savings by going 24" centers is simply not worth it. As to the difference in thermal transferrence, it will be negligible.

If you live in a really cold climate and will be heating your garage 24x7, then upgrading to 2x6 on 16" centers might be worth considering since you will be able to get more insulation in there.

 

[kbs2244]

Dirttracker18 brings up a good point about the roof.

Everybody wants to go 24 inch with OSB.
I have way too many sagging roofs done that way.

If you are going to use OSB, go 16 inch on the roof framing.

 

[38Chevy454]

2x6 walls on 16 inch centers for mine, but I also have 12 ft height. My roof trusses are on 24 inch center spacing though. Garage is 26x48, R-19 insulation walls and R-38 in ceiling.

 

[Falcon67]

Dirttracker18 brings up a good point about the roof.

Everybody wants to go 24 inch with OSB.
I have way too many sagging roofs done that way.

If you are going to use OSB, go 16 inch on the roof framing.

FWIW - I built my old shop in 1998. Rafters 24" OC, 7/16" OSB deck. When we sold in 04/11 the roof looked the same as when I laid it down. It went through 3 large hail storms over that time with no damage other than some granules knocked off the shingles.

I checked the deck on our 2001 house - walls 16" OC, rafters all 24" OC with OSB decking.

 

[ctb]

What does your building code state? I assume it will be subject to building permit and inspection? Personally I'd go 24oc walls no problem.

 

[ForceFed70]

Dirttracker18 brings up a good point about the roof.

Everybody wants to go 24 inch with OSB.
I have way too many sagging roofs done that way.

If you are going to use OSB, go 16 inch on the roof framing.

That's not a cost effective option if using engineered trusses.

I did my roof with 7/16 OSB at 24"OC and the roof is plenty strong. Might have a little bounce to it, but it's not a floor.

7/16OSB and 24" OC is code in my neck of the woods and 95% of houses built are done this way. Even with Canadian snow loads, you don't see any sagging roofs.

For less than the cost of 1 extra truss, you could upgrade to thicker OSB if a builder really is worried about it.

 

[ForceFed70]

Just go with 2x4 on 16" centers. The cost savings by going 24" centers is simply not worth it. As to the difference in thermal transferrence, it will be negligible.

He lives in Canada. So insulation certainly is a factor.

Ever wonder why those houses that have the Gold Energy efficiency ratings use 2x6 framing, then put 1.5" foam board on the ouside of the sheathing instead of just using 2x8 framing? It's because the heat loss through the studs DOES make that much of a difference.

 

[6768rogues]

What is the spacing for your roof system framing? If your trusses/rafters rest directly over the wall studs, you only need a single top plate on the wall. If the spacing is different, you need a double top plate. If your roof is 24" spacing and the walls are 16" spacing, you have an expensive option because you bought extra wall studs and an extra top plate. If the roof is 24" spacing, I would frame the walls to match and use a single top plate, the lowest cost option. It will be structurally sound, insulated effectively and low cost.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

I just finished mine with 2x6 studs @ 16" C/C. The roof trusses are @19.2 C/C (ever wonder what that diamond mark is for on your tapes at the 19 3/16" mark?). That spacing on the roof will eliminate the sagging between trusses and eliminate one truss for every 8' of width. Most of the OSB and flooring (Advantech) has a diamond pattern for nailing at 19.2 C/C's.

You will need to get the ceiling blown in if you go with that spacing but that should not be a problem.

 

[Falcon67]

What is the spacing for your roof system framing? If your trusses/rafters rest directly over the wall studs, you only need a single top plate on the wall. If the spacing is different, you need a double top plate.

Interesting. I always used a double top plate. I like how it ties the corners together at the top. I don't recall any of my construction books showing a single top plate except on a non bearing wall.

 

[jasonreck71]

24 OC is a cost-cutting measure that should be outlawed. If your budget is so tight as to have to squeeze out $2-300 in lumber, rethink the job. You can do all kinds of finish and upgrade down the road... but you can't ever (within reason) make it a stronger structure.

Well said...

 

[CanuckGT]

Great advise, thanks to all that replied.

I do live in alberta,Canada so it does get cold (tonight its -36c) Snow isn't that much of a factor as we seem to get a few chinooks that take care of most of it.

So from what I have read its looking like 16" o/c would be the choice of most , will have to confirm with local codes,etc.

Thanks !!

 

[Kevin54]

16" on center is a no brainer. You are only looking at a few dollars more per wall. And with 16" on center you building will have more rigidity in both the outer substructure and with the inner finishing up on the walls. A lot of places started going 2' on centers because it was saving money. Personally I think it is cutting corners.

 

[K588]

My building is a 28'x40' 10.5' first floor ceiling height. I framed it with 2x6 16"OC with a double sill and double top plate, T111 siding, my trusses do not line up with the studs. I went with a slightly wider staircase and added 2, 6' and 1, 8' dormer upstairs. The additional couple hundred dollars wasnt that big of deal to me.

 

[NUTTSGT]

What is the spacing for your roof system framing? If your trusses/rafters rest directly over the wall studs, you only need a single top plate on the wall. If the spacing is different, you need a double top plate. If your roof is 24" spacing and the walls are 16" spacing, you have an expensive option because you bought extra wall studs and an extra top plate. If the roof is 24" spacing, I would frame the walls to match and use a single top plate, the lowest cost option. It will be structurally sound, insulated effectively and low cost.

Interesting. I always used a double top plate. I like how it ties the corners together at the top. I don't recall any of my construction books showing a single top plate except on a non bearing wall.

I'd agree with Chris on this one. I'd never use a single top plate, even if it was allowable by code. The double top plate ties the corners together along with the sections of wall when you over lap the joints.

 

[mtwaterguy]

In my 40x96 I used 2x6 and the trusses are @ 12'.

 

[blkhonda1991]

I'd agree with Chris on this one. I'd never use a single top plate, even if it was allowable by code. The double top plate ties the corners together along with the sections of wall when you over lap the joints.

with a single top plate you still tie the walls together with a metal plate, i dont see how it would be any less effective than another 2X plate