Drywall vs. Plywood Interior Walls

[mattthomas4444]

Hi,
This'll be my first post, so I'll give a bit of info about me, and forgive me for stupid questions. Im 16 and love working in the garage on anything from cars to motorcycles to woodworking projects. Right now, my dad and I are restoring/rebuilding a 1972 Norton Commando motorcycle, that has started to take over my life outside of school and sports. I've learnt a lot through the project especially tearing down and rebuilding the engine, and my dad has a renewed enjoyment in working on things (he just replaced his car transmission as well).

...So i have been thinking of installing a VCT floor (white and black check) and either installing drywall or plywood to the walls as a fathers day and birthday present for my dad (we currently have some old crappy OSB). I am just torn between the two options, plywood is probably easier for me to install, I kind of like the bare wood finish and it is probably more versatile in terms of putting in more outlets etc. But drywall can be painted much nicer and can have a better look. I dont think my dad would have a problem with either - just happy with a nicer garage! Id love to see some pictures of plywood walls to help me make a decision as I havent seen too many garages with plywood walls. Also would plywood need to be 1/2'' at least or could it be thinner 3/8'' maybe?

Ill also eventually get to installing more cupboards and cabinets for storage, but probably make them myself to save money and it'll be a fun project.

Thanks a lot for the help,

Matt

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Good on you Matt for being so involved at such a young age. What's wrong with the existing OSB? Did it get moist and ruined? If you're committed to doing the walls over, I'd suggest you stay with plywood. As you said, it'll be an easier project for you. I'd also suggest you stay with AT LEAST 1/2" otherwise you're losing a lot of the advantage that plywood provides - the ability to mount most anything, anywhere!

As to the floor: Make certain your prep is thorough.....really thorough. Also, just personal opinion but if you're going with 12x12 tiles I'd suggest you do four tiles together to make the white and four together to make the black. Otherwise it tends to be very busy looking and not as pleasing. Again, my $.02.

 

[regguy1]

Check out my video link below. I used a different approach, some people like it some don't. The video will give you a guided tour.....

 

[regguy1]

Check out my video link below. I used a different approach, some people like it some don't. It also shows a hidden storage area project The video will give you a guided tour.....

 

[kbs2244]

Go with the plywood.
For the reasons you mentioned.
(I would paint it white.)

In my mind, even better, would be HD, ¼ inch, peg board.
You will never get tired of moving the hooks around to meet the needs of the current project.

 

[regguy1]

Go with the plywood.
For the reasons you mentioned.
(I would paint it white.)

In my mind, even better, would be HD, ¼ inch, peg board.
You will never get tired of moving the hooks around to meet the needs of the current project.

They call it "Garage Liner" it's pre-finished / tempered
That's what I did, Look:

 

[AMCguy]

I recommend plywood. 1/2'' thick. Electrical boxes, door and window casings are all made for 1/2''. Paint it pure white.

Here is a picture for you.

 

[mattthomas4444]

Good on you Matt for being so involved at such a young age. What's wrong with the existing OSB? Did it get moist and ruined? If you're committed to doing the walls over, I'd suggest you stay with plywood. As you said, it'll be an easier project for you. I'd also suggest you stay with AT LEAST 1/2" otherwise you're losing a lot of the advantage that plywood provides - the ability to mount most anything, anywhere!

As to the floor: Make certain your prep is thorough.....really thorough. Also, just personal opinion but if you're going with 12x12 tiles I'd suggest you do four tiles together to make the white and four together to make the black. Otherwise it tends to be very busy looking and not as pleasing. Again, my $.02.

Well, the OSB is not in bad shape, I just don't like it that much - plywood or drywall gives a nicer look (I think).
I do agree with you that 4 sq/ft checks are better than the 1 sq/ft design.
For surface prep, it doesn't need to be as extensive as an epoxy floor does it? More of a sweep out to remove dirt and dust, and filling in cracks. Maybe etching out oil stains as well?

And as for pegboard, I may use it but I wouldnt line every wall with it, maybe just the wall behind the workbench. I think that a bunch of cupboards will be better, only because the garage needs to store other houshold items as well its not purely dedicated to motorcycles, cars and woodworking (although I wish it could be - we dont have enough space for everything else)

Im still a ways away, we wont do it till late spring probably, just wanted to get a better understanding. Originally I was just looking at doing a VCT floor, but then I realized it might look weird with old, dirty OSB lining the walls, so I looked into drywall/plywood, now Im thinking of a better lighting system...who knows what will end up actually happening!

Matt

 

[Wastedwagesracing]

I recommend plywood. 1/2'' thick. Electrical boxes, door and window casings are all made for 1/2''. Paint it pure white.

Here is a picture for you.

Looks nice, do you have any close up pictures of it?

 

[rods&cycles]

Is there a problem using OSB? I'm curious because it's 1/2 the price of plywood.

 

[5lima30]

I also have 1/2" OSB on my walls and I love it! I have started installing a 4' high wainscoting over top of the OSB. I am using galvanized corrugated roofing for this with some wood trim capping it. I am also using the same metal roofing for the ceiling. BTW the lighting improvement is MUCH better with the shiny metal ceiling! I don't have pics yet but will update my garage pics when I am done hopefully within a couple weeks. There are several members on this board that have done the same thing and have pics posted.

 

[ddawg16]

Drywall....doesn't burn.....after almost 3 years....still looks like new....

OSB or Plywood will never look as clean as drywall....but then again, if it's a working garage....doesn't really mater.....hence, no reason to epoxy the floor....

 

[Vicious Customs]

I don't mean to hijack the thread, but I'm curious too. I was intending on using 1/2 OSB instead of plywood for the cost savings, but I was also under the impression that it would be as versatile when it comes to mounting outlets, conduit, and even my air lines. Is this a correct assumption?

Regarding the original topic, between drywall and plywood I'd say plywood all the way, for the reasons stated. I think that with a good paint you can negate the cleanliness issue between plywood and drywall.

 

[pattenp]

Matt, I didn't catch if your garage is attached to your home or not. If it is attached you may want to consider sheet rock over plywood because of fire resistance. It the garage is detached, it is less of a concern.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Matt, I didn't catch if your garage is attached to your home or not. If it is attached you may want to consider sheet rock over plywood because of fire resistance. It the garage is detached, it is less of a concern.

It's not a matter of consideration- IT"S CODE!

 

[pattenp]

It's not a matter of consideration- IT"S CODE!

No need to yell "IT's CODE". If attached, sheet rock is required on the common wall to house and ceiling only. I did't know if he was finishing off the balance of walls in an attached garage or fully finishing off a detached garage. Plus, I'm not sure what the code is in Canada.

 

[mattthomas4444]

No need to yell "IT's CODE". If attached, sheet rock is required on the common wall to house and ceiling only. I did't know if he was finishing off the balance of walls in an attached garage or fully finishing off a detached garage. Plus, I'm not sure what the code is in Canada.

Its a detached garage. Im not sure about code either, but I can find out pretty easy.

What is cheaper, drywall or plywood? Probably pretty close I'd assume

Matt

 

[mattthomas4444]

Id also have to assume, if its lined with OSB right now by the original builder, there must not be restrictions with code, because OSB cant be any better than plywood for preventing fire.

Matt

 

[ctb]

Don't forget the safety factor.
When you get pissed off - which you will - a hammer thrown in anger at a gyproc wall will tend to make a nice entry hole and stay they for easier retrieval. A hammer thrown in anger at a plywood wall will bounce back, probably hit you in the head, bounce off and ruin whatever you happen to be working on!

 

[DoyleDee]

Why not just install sheetrock over your osb ? It will give you a very good base to be able to put a screw anywhere and the sheetrock is much cheaper than new plywood.

If cost isn't a factor, then buy new plywood and remove all of the osb.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Well, the OSB is not in bad shape, I just don't like it that much - plywood or drywall gives a nicer look (I think).

Matt, I agree on the APPEARANCE of OSB so here's something you can do that is easy, cheap and will look better:

Skim coat the OSB with premixed drywall compound. It'll fill in the majority of the texture and then roll the walls in white or a light color using a heavy nap roller cover to give more texture/hide the OSB texture a bit more. You'll have much of the screw holding ability of plywood, much of the appearence of dryall and you'll have barely spent much money. Sanding with a pole sander oughta be minimal and your dad will love the new, bright, clean appearence. Spend the cash you were GONNA spend on other stuff in there. Again, just my $.02.

 

[Highbeam]

Plywood is much more expensive than sheetrock. Sheetrock is closer to OSB in cost. Further, OSB plus sheetrock is cheaper than plywood. Plywood is very expensive.

I am forced to install type x fire rated sheetrock by my fire department. It can be on top of OSB but that would just be a pain. Like doing the job twice. The only benefit would be the ability to put a screw in anywhere and support something. Why not just find a stud?

 

[mattthomas4444]

Matt, I agree on the APPEARANCE of OSB so here's something you can do that is easy, cheap and will look better:

Skim coat the OSB with premixed drywall compound. It'll fill in the majority of the texture and then roll the walls in white or a light color using a heavy nap roller cover to give more texture/hide the OSB texture a bit more. You'll have much of the screw holding ability of plywood, much of the appearence of dryall and you'll have barely spent much money. Sanding with a pole sander oughta be minimal and your dad will love the new, bright, clean appearence. Spend the cash you were GONNA spend on other stuff in there. Again, just my $.02.

I dont mind that idea at all actually. Saves money at least, and probably look pretty good. Thanks

Matt

 

[Macgyver_ga]

Its a detached garage. Im not sure about code either, but I can find out pretty easy.

What is cheaper, drywall or plywood? Probably pretty close I'd assume

Matt

Drywall is cheaper than plywood. A 4x8 sheet of 1/2" drywall is about 6.99, a 4x8 sheet of 1/2" ply is about twice that. 4x8 OSB is similar in price to drywall however.

 

[1948]

even just putting the pieces of drywall up without even putting the filler on will look nicer. just remember to use a drywall screw gun(has a stop for the screws)and when you need to cut the drywall to size, all you gotta do is slice it with a razor blade on one side then snap it over and run the blade in the goove behind and its done. you can do an entire garage in just a few hours, and it wont be super expensive. the only thing that ***** the sanding dust from the seams but with a few friends over that can be accomplished in a few hours after it dries too.

i would be careful tho since it is your fathers house, that he would be OK with you doing that to HIS house.... i think most guys would like it, but might want to check with him first. also, he might want to insulate the garage first.

 

[mattthomas4444]

even just putting the pieces of drywall up without even putting the filler on will look nicer. just remember to use a drywall screw gun(has a stop for the screws)and when you need to cut the drywall to size, all you gotta do is slice it with a razor blade on one side then snap it over and run the blade in the goove behind and its done. you can do an entire garage in just a few hours, and it wont be super expensive. the only thing that ***** the sanding dust from the seams but with a few friends over that can be accomplished in a few hours after it dries too.

i would be careful tho since it is your fathers house, that he would be OK with you doing that to HIS house.... i think most guys would like it, but might want to check with him first. also, he might want to insulate the garage first.

Well, I am almost certain that he would be on board with it, of course he would probably want to help me build it, I'd just pay for it and organize it.

As far as I know the garage is insulated, just not the ceiling unfortunately.

Matt

 

[Macgyver_ga]

Well, I am almost certain that he would be on board with it, of course he would probably want to help me build it, I'd just pay for it and organize it.

As far as I know the garage is insulated, just not the ceiling unfortunately.

Matt

Is there an "attic" space above the garage? If so, you could blow in some for about $300 once the drywall is up. I did it a few years ago. HD had a deal going that if you bought 10 bails of fiberglass insulation, they would rent you the blower for free. I only needed about 5-6 bails to do my garage so I went ahead and bought 10 and blew the remaining stuff throughout the rest of my attic. It only took a couple hours on a saturday morning to do. I called a buddy of mine to help me, he loaded the insulation in the blower while I had the hose up in the attic. It's super easy to do. I only spent about $300 on the 10 bails.

 

[mattthomas4444]

Ive thought about insulating the attic, blowing it in is probably the best option.

I drew up some plans today because I was bored, Ive got plenty of cupboards all around the walls, a wider work bench, a motorcycle table, and even some of those "drop down"/folding (but "pull-up" in my case) tables that Jack Olsen made for his beautiful garage in my plans. I plan to make the cupboards myself, not an expert in cabinetry, but I think I can make some functional, sturdy cupboards to hang on the walls. 1/2'' plywood for the cupboards?

When it comes to hanging cupboards, can they be installed right up touching the ceiling? Almost every cupboard I can think of is about a foot or two down the wall from the roof, ideally Id like to have them right up, touching the ceiling...if its possible? And also, hanging them, is a french cleat the easiest, best way to get a sturdy hold?

Here are my plans if anyones interested. Sorry if they are tough to see. The "wall storage" is just open wall space to hang things or anything else. And the bike/bike bench spot on the North Wall drawing is a reserved spot for the motorcycle were restoring once its finished, to rest atop a wooden table we built for it for a better working height.
Feel free to critique the plans, Im open to suggestions. Also, the walls are about 23 feet long and 8 feet high.

Thanks for the help,
Matt

 

[Macgyver_ga]

Ive thought about insulating the attic, blowing it in is probably the best option.

I drew up some plans today because I was bored, Ive got plenty of cupboards all around the walls, a wider work bench, a motorcycle table, and even some of those "drop down"/folding (but "pull-up" in my case) tables that Jack Olsen made for his beautiful garage in my plans. I plan to make the cupboards myself, not an expert in cabinetry, but I think I can make some functional, sturdy cupboards to hang on the walls. 1/2'' plywood for the cupboards?

When it comes to hanging cupboards, can they be installed right up touching the ceiling? Almost every cupboard I can think of is about a foot or two down the wall from the roof, ideally Id like to have them right up, touching the ceiling...if its possible? And also, hanging them, is a french cleat the easiest, best way to get a sturdy hold?

Here are my plans if anyones interested. Sorry if they are tough to see. The "wall storage" is just open wall space to hang things or anything else. And the bike/bike bench spot on the North Wall drawing is a reserved spot for the motorcycle were restoring once its finished, to rest atop a wooden table we built for it for a better working height.
Feel free to critique the plans, Im open to suggestions. Also, the walls are about 23 feet long and 8 feet high.

Thanks for the help,
Matt

I would use 3/4" ply for garage cabinets since most likely you'll be storing heavy stuff in them. 1/2" ply would be fine for kitchen cabinets though. As for for putting them up to the ceiling...sure. I would just leave about a 1" gap at the top to allow for any unevenness of the ceiling so the doors will open and close properly. Building them isn't that difficult, I did a little write up in the "show your 2 car garage thread" on how to build them.

 

[55chevr]

I would rethink the VCT if you plan on welding ...

Joe

 

[demographic]

When building the toilet areas in pubs in the UK , its often a good idea to put plywood on the walls then plasterboard.
That allows fittings to be attached pretty much anywhere on the wall and makes the wall far stronger when some drunken idiot falls out with his girlfriend and decides to punch a wall.

So to answer the question and considering you already have OSB on the wall I would just put plasterboard (or as you call it, sheetrock) over the OSB.

Stronger and better to fix to than just plasterboard and looks as good.

 

[1grnlwn]

If the osb is in good shape and flat, I think the sheetrock over is the best idea. You must always consider labor involved and you will save a lot of time if you don't have to remove osb. Of course if you do remove the osb you could add elect outlets, inspect/add insulation etc. I would avoid skimcoating unless you are a professional or know one that will work for beer. Finishing every square inch of wall surface is a lot different than taping joints. If you have ever taped joints, you know it is harder than it looks and sanding *****. My new polebarn will have sheetrock walls mainly for fire resistance. It can be the difference between getting a small fire put out and losing the structure and contents. Always assume that if you have to call the fire department, you are screwed. It is mainly a courtesy to your neighbor so his house doesn't burn down too. If you hang the drywall yourselves do your homework and be neat. Do ceiling first and make sure all screws are recessed spaced like a pro would do. When you are finished hanging, call around and have a few pros come out and give quotes on finishing. If it looks professional they will give you a good price and will have it done lickety split. You will be amazed how fast these guys can finish a taping job with the proper tools. Oh and get it painted ASAP so you can move back in asap. Nothing sadder than a taped garage that never got painted. One last piece of advise. I know you want to surprise (please) your dad, but he will be most pleased if you tell him your intentions and ask his advise instead of a bunch of dumb computer heads! LOL

 

[1grnlwn]

Oh, I almost forgot you can buy electrical box extenders so you would not have to move boxes out or use ridiculous long screws. They are sometimes called plaster rings. Just easier to work with. IMO

 

[mattthomas4444]

If the osb is in good shape and flat, I think the sheetrock over is the best idea. You must always consider labor involved and you will save a lot of time if you don't have to remove osb. Of course if you do remove the osb you could add elect outlets, inspect/add insulation etc. I would avoid skimcoating unless you are a professional or know one that will work for beer. Finishing every square inch of wall surface is a lot different than taping joints. If you have ever taped joints, you know it is harder than it looks and sanding *****. My new polebarn will have sheetrock walls mainly for fire resistance. It can be the difference between getting a small fire put out and losing the structure and contents. Always assume that if you have to call the fire department, you are screwed. It is mainly a courtesy to your neighbor so his house doesn't burn down too. If you hang the drywall yourselves do your homework and be neat. Do ceiling first and make sure all screws are recessed spaced like a pro would do. When you are finished hanging, call around and have a few pros come out and give quotes on finishing. If it looks professional they will give you a good price and will have it done lickety split. You will be amazed how fast these guys can finish a taping job with the proper tools. Oh and get it painted ASAP so you can move back in asap. Nothing sadder than a taped garage that never got painted. One last piece of advise. I know you want to surprise (please) your dad, but he will be most pleased if you tell him your intentions and ask his advise instead of a bunch of dumb computer heads! LOL

Don't worry, I'm sure my dad will love to do this, but I will present my plans and ideas to him on his birthday or fathers day, then hopefully if he wants to, we can promptly start building it together. I think it is something he will enjoy doing, but he won't be forced into it obviously.

Although we both wish we could really bad, neither my dad or I know how to weld, so VCT should be okay.

I've been thinking more about drywall finishing, and I really am still unsure about it, if I deem it is too hard or maybe the drywall is too expensive, I will paint a section of the OSB and see how it looks, if it looks okay I might just do that.

Matt

 

[1grnlwn]

With these small compact mig welders, just about anyone can weld. Practice is all it takes.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

...... I will paint a section of the OSB and see how it looks, if it looks okay I might just do that.

Buy a little half pint of spackle and skim coat a small area, maybe 3'x3', sand paint and compare it to the OSB without the skim coat. Itll be a LOT better looking in my opinion.

As to the VCT: Since it's best to "Hope for the Best, but Plan for the Worst" I'd suggest reconsidering the VCT too. Jack's tile floor is the way I'm planning to go. I've seen tile at Home Cheapo for as little as 67 cents a square foot. That's REALLY cheap to me and much more durable that the VCT. I've seen Jack's garage floor in person a couple times and I KNOW he truly uses his garage and but it barely shows any damage at all.

 

[seagravedriver]

I have been a full time firefighter for a long time, and a volunteer before that. Most of the house fires I have been too have started either it the garage, or kitchen. Drywall is a barrier, it can contain a fire in a "box", as opposed to spreading to who knows where.

That being said, GOOD ON YOU for turning wrenches and getting after stuff like this. Do what works, but be safe and have fun.

 

[mattthomas4444]

Thanks guys for the help.

Buy a little half pint of spackle and skim coat a small area, maybe 3'x3', sand paint and compare it to the OSB without the skim coat. Itll be a LOT better looking in my opinion.

As to the VCT: Since it's best to "Hope for the Best, but Plan for the Worst" I'd suggest reconsidering the VCT too. Jack's tile floor is the way I'm planning to go. I've seen tile at Home Cheapo for as little as 67 cents a square foot. That's REALLY cheap to me and much more durable that the VCT. I've seen Jack's garage floor in person a couple times and I KNOW he truly uses his garage and but it barely shows any damage at all.

As for the VCT, I actually just discovered concrete staining and was thinking about that, it looks to be a bit cheaper even too. I think that the VCT might encounter problems with all the snow we get here and water dripping off the cars will not be great for VCT. I understand that it shouldnt be a problem with stained concrete? and definitely not with tile.

The tiles in Jack's garage are beautiful and I love the look, the only reason I was not considering it is because I was assuming that they would be quite expensive. Ill search around and see what I can find. Right now I'd say its between stained concrete (which Id like some more info on if anyone knows much about it) and the porcelain? tiles.

Matt

 

[cactiki]

If it were me, I would put up drywall over the OSB for fire resistance. Drywall is pretty cheap, much less than plywood. In my garage I still have bare studs, but after I repair the roof I am going to insulate and drywall it. However, I will not do the mud and tape. This has a few advantages-I can remove and replace one sheet if it is damaged, and I can see the screws so I know where the studs are. Also I can remove and replace it if I want to add or change anything in the wall, like adding outlets. Maybe I will even use chrome screws, or paint them. Maybe put some kind of trim or molding over the seams... who says it has to look like every one elses garage, or for that matter their living room!

 

[mattthomas4444]

If it were me, I would put up drywall over the OSB for fire resistance. Drywall is pretty cheap, much less than plywood. In my garage I still have bare studs, but after I repair the roof I am going to insulate and drywall it. However, I will not do the mud and tape. This has a few advantages-I can remove and replace one sheet if it is damaged, and I can see the screws so I know where the studs are. Also I can remove and replace it if I want to add or change anything in the wall, like adding outlets. Maybe I will even use chrome screws, or paint them. Maybe put some kind of trim or molding over the seams... who says it has to look like every one elses garage, or for that matter their living room!

Thats a great idea actually, I bet something could be used to cover up the seams and still look great.

Matt