The VISES of Garage Journal

[SweetD]

I added this one recently, handed down from my elderly father. I believe it is a Prentiss but all I can read on it is ENTI Vise Co. NY Jewelers Vise? IT appears to have a nickel plating?

You are a lucky guy. That same (rare) model Prentiss example just sold on eBay last week for almost $200. Nice vise, hang on to it!

Dave

 

[wxm]

That is SO cool! Without the dime for scale, you would think it was the real deal!

(I want one...)

If you look carefully - the flat head screw mount.

 

[1FordTech1]

Here is a pic to show better how it was originally plated. Base has a lot of it left but much of it has worn away.

 

[Outlawmws]

LOL, well I should have stated that was a quarter in the jaw.. Its about a 2 inch jaw.

Awwww, you broke my illusions! But its still pretty darn cool

I have a similar scale "post vise" the is a table edge clamp-on design, jaws are 1-1/4" wide. It's been posted somewhere in this thread.

 

[Outlawmws]

If you look carefully - the flat head screw mount.

Yeah, but I can come up with "bolts" the right size to fix that up!

My son noticed the screws also. He was like "Holy S#$%"

 

[1FordTech1]

Awwww, you broke my illusions! But its still pretty darn cool

I have a similar scale "post vise" the is a table edge clamp-on design, jaws are 1-1/4" wide. It's been posted somewhere in this thread.

Now that is a great one too! 1 1/4 inch jaws! You better hang on to that cool one too!

 

[demographic]

Just a few old adverts for English vices. These from the 1964 Buck & Hickman catalogue as far as I can tell (I found the pictures on the internet so cannot guarantee the accuracy of that date)...

Then there's one from 1920...

You know, just reading through this thread and bearing in mind the fact that there's books on Workbenches and Toolbox's I think that with a little history thrown in there's enough pictures on this thread to do a Vice (or Vise, depending on where you come from) book.

 

[kngkong]

Came across this Record 74 this weekend but didn't get it, yet . Haven't seen one like this before. Has pipe jaws and the pipe bender spot on the side. This one has about 4 inch jaws. Looks like it has a swivel base but I couldn't find any handle to loosen it, maybe there was a nut under the table.

 

[demographic]

Came across this Record 74 this weekend but didn't get it, yet . Haven't seen one like this before. Has pipe jaws and the pipe bender spot on the side. This one has about 4 inch jaws. Looks like it has a swivel base but I couldn't find any handle to loosen it, maybe there was a nut under the table.

I have a 74 Auto Vice, there's a massive wingnut on a threaded bar that runs through the base and down through the tabletop.
I think mines older than that as the writing is different.
Doesn't really show the wingnut I'm afraid but I took these pictures after attacking it with a wire brush on a grinder.

There's a couple of parts underneath it for putting bars into whilst bending them.

And a replaceable puck which I assume is used as a bit of an anvil section.

I've only recently seen a picture in a catalogue that shows the vice came with a bar that had a threaded end that fitted into the spark plug hole of a cylinder head to hold it while you worked on it.
Mine didn't have that when I got it though and I assume it got lost over the years.

 

[kngkong]

That's pretty cool demographic. So sounds like they were specifically targeted towards the auto mechanics. Yours looks good all stripped down like that. I might have to go back and buy this one as a swivel vice would be nice to have.

 

[bggrnchvy]

I bought a well used 9350 that I restored for my dad for Christmas. He had one in his dad's shop back in the 60's.

The vise prior to new jaws.

The internal nut was curious however:

Still haven't taken possession of the Parker, maybe this week.

 

[demographic]

That's pretty cool demographic. So sounds like they were specifically targeted towards the auto mechanics. Yours looks good all stripped down like that. I might have to go back and buy this one as a swivel vice would be nice to have.

I have a copy of a 1953 catalogue (its got digital security otherwise I would put on my Scribd account) that shows the vice with Auto Vice written on the side like mine has but then there's what I only know as a number 60* Record catalogue where the words Auto Vice are missing and it only says Record 74, like yours.

HERE'S that catalogue that shows the vice on page four.





*Now, I'm no expert but from what I've read on the internet Record tools catalogues have a numbering system that doesn't match up with the year numbers. Not sure how true that is.

 

[1967lemans]

Here's a Yost 33C I got for free. It was piss can black when I got it. used a wire wheel on a 4.5 grinder to take it down. I threw some poly red on it after I tore it apart. (thanks to that thread on vice dis assembly) lube it up, welded an extension to my table and bolted it down!

 

[bbailey]

Old, but small vice from a 98 year old lady. Probably her father's.
View media item 15810

 

[bigcaddy]

I bought a "new" vise off ebay last week and today in finally came in the mail. Unfortunately the box had some tape repairs to it and once all parts were unwrapped and accounted for, i noticed i was missing the dynamic jaw and threaded handle.

If anybody has a broken 3 1/2" Wilton bullet vise, model 9350 with a good dynamic jaw, i would be interested in buying it from you.

I don't have much faith in the post office ever locating or returning my parts so i'm on the hunt for a new jaw and screw.

 

[demographic]

I bought a "new" vise off ebay last week and today in finally came in the mail. Unfortunately the box had some tape repairs to it and once all parts were unwrapped and accounted for, i noticed i was missing the dynamic jaw and threaded handle.

If anybody has a broken 3 1/2" Wilton bullet vise, model 9350 with a good dynamic jaw, i would be interested in buying it from you.

I don't have much faith in the post office ever locating or returning my parts so i'm on the hunt for a new jaw and screw.

I assume it was insured? Or you are putting a claim in against them?
Was it sent out in one piece, or in bits?

 

[Outlawmws]

I bought a "new" vise off ebay last week and today in finally came in the mail. Unfortunately the box had some tape repairs to it and once all parts were unwrapped and accounted for, i noticed i was missing the dynamic jaw and threaded handle.SNIP

Why are you bothering with anything besides going after the Eprey seller. They have an obligation to deliver, and that includes packing well enough to keep things from busting out...

 

[bigcaddy]

It was packed, in pieces, in a large flat rate box with minimal packing materials. I don't think people are used to shipping small dense objects like that and they have an uncanny ability to break out of the package when the gorillas at USPS start tossing packages about.

I'm guilty of it myself when i shipped a customer (2) 25 lb lead clock weights but were returned after a quick search.

I'm not sure if the package was insured but i wanted to just be on the lookout for another jaw in case it is lost for good. I'm giving the seller time to locate it before any returns are discussed. I usually give people a few days to try and get thing straightened out......before their picture ends up on the side of a milk carton.

 

[bigcaddy]

I've got a question for the wizards of smart of Garage Journal.

I was doing some cleaning in my toolbox last night and came across some non-sparking bronze pliers which got the wheels in my head turning. Did any company, at any time manufacture a vise made of bronze for work in refineries or work areas where sparks could be hazardous? When i say vise, i mean a typical example of what anybody would immediately identify as a vise, not some strange configuration.

I would think a bronze vise would be fairly soft but the alloy formula could be adjusted to make it somewhat more "durable".

If anybody knows or even has a picture, i would like to see them.

 

[Outlawmws]

I've got a question for the wizards of smart of Garage Journal.

I was doing some cleaning in my toolbox last night and came across some non-sparking bronze pliers which got the wheels in my head turning. Did any company, at any time manufacture a vise made of bronze for work in refineries or work areas where sparks could be hazardous? When i say vise, i mean a typical example of what anybody would immediately identify as a vise, not some strange configuration.

I would think a bronze vise would be fairly soft but the alloy formula could be adjusted to make it somewhat more "durable".

If anybody knows or even has a picture, i would like to see them.

Yep they are made, and no, They are not really soft at all. Good non sparking tools are made of BeCu and the Beryllium gives copper a hardness and springy toughness. BeCu is used for "copper" (Highly conductive) springs as well.

Look under "clamp vise":


http://www.adf-safetytools.com/?gclid=CJbp87vQ8K0CFWQ0Qgodxnacsw

 

[demographic]

I've got a question for the wizards of smart of Garage Journal.

I was doing some cleaning in my toolbox last night and came across some non-sparking bronze pliers which got the wheels in my head turning. Did any company, at any time manufacture a vise made of bronze for work in refineries or work areas where sparks could be hazardous? When i say vise, i mean a typical example of what anybody would immediately identify as a vise, not some strange configuration.

I would think a bronze vise would be fairly soft but the alloy formula could be adjusted to make it somewhat more "durable".

If anybody knows or even has a picture, i would like to see them.

I've seen a bronze version of an Emmert Patternmakers vise on the internet.
Now as patternmakers work in foundries and even way back when one of those vise's would cost a lot of money it would be the logical thing for them to do to just make a copy of the original. If they were mostly casting bronze then I reckon that's what they would use.

 

[bigcaddy]

well i guess there is such a thing as bronze vises after all. I really didn't doubt it, i just had never seen one before.

 

[bigcaddy]

I don't know if anybody lives near the Sonora/Stockton area of California but there is a nice 4" Rock Island vise for sale on Craigslist for 80.00 Its really clean and the jaws are in excellent original condition. Check it out if you have some free time.

 

[Acosi151]

Trojan 703

Just finished refurb'ing this Trojan 703 that I found in well rusted condition in the back of a pawn shop locally for $20.

The travelling jaw has been broken at some point and brazed. Not sure how that's going to work but it looked like it had been in that condition for quite some time when I got it. If it breaks again I'll clean up the mess and weld it.

 

[blue dog]

My new to me Wilton 4" with a tuneup and a fresh coat of hammered metallic blue. And my wilton hanging out with Mercury in anodized bronze.
Anyone ever get some information on the Mercury vise, i have never been able to find out anything about them.

I really want to find a Printiss Bulldog that needs some love.

 

[willd]

Been lurkin around on here for a bit now.... After going through every page of this thread over the past few nights I got inspired to dig out one of my "extra vises" and clean it up. I can't find much info on it... only markings read "No. 345a, b, c, and Made in USA". It appears to have the swivel static jaw but I can't get the "pin" out of it to save my life. I'd love any info y'all could provide.

 

[Carla]

I've got a question for the wizards of smart of Garage Journal.

I was doing some cleaning in my toolbox last night and came across some non-sparking bronze pliers which got the wheels in my head turning. Did any company, at any time manufacture a vise made of bronze for work in refineries or work areas where sparks could be hazardous? When i say vise, i mean a typical example of what anybody would immediately identify as a vise, not some strange configuration.

I would think a bronze vise would be fairly soft but the alloy formula could be adjusted to make it somewhat more "durable".

If anybody knows or even has a picture, i would like to see them.

I've seen a couple of the old bronze vises, one time and another, and have seen a couple of them listed on ebay. They are considered to be extremely 'collectible' and have been sold for a lot of $$$.

There may well have been some applications where they were desired for non-sparking qualities, but, some fairly large number of those were bought by the Navy for a very specific purpose.

At the Mare Island Naval Shipyard (MINS), in the S. F. bay area of California, there was a special 'non-magnetic' building located as far away as could be from the rest of the facility. The building was completely built of non-magnetic materials, wood with wooden pegs or dowels for its construction, or using brass or bronze screws and nails, with no ferrous metal anywhere.(presumably, the various other Navy yards had similar facilities)

Every tool and piece of equipment in that building had to be made of non-magnetic materials, as the facility was intended for the precise assembly and calibration of instruments which would be influenced by any magnetic or ferrous metals within some certain specified distance.

I remember, vaguely, hearing the story of a gentleman who worked in that facility....but don't remember much of the details about the equipment setup and calibration which had to be done in the non-mag building......sophisticated torpedo and missile guidance systems, probably, which he wasn't allowed to discuss in any detail.

Presumably, there were basic calibrations which had to be done in the non-mag environment, after which compensation devices were added to compensate as would be needed for service in steel ships with heavy electric power runs.

The non-mag vises, at least the ones I've seen, were built by the Columbian vise co., and appeared to have been cast in the same moulds used for their regular ductile iron vise line, and machined in the same setups......basically, identical to their standard product line, except for the material.

Presumably, there would have been several of the common makers of vises, such as Reed, Prentiss, or Parker, who would also have made the non-mag vises for the Navy, on a 'special order' basis.

I don't know just what the non-mag material spec would have been.......I'd suspect it would be one of the high-strength bronze alloys, such as aluminium bronze, or possibly a beryllium copper alloy, as was common for non-mag/non-sparking hand tools.

cheers

Carla

 

[GRX]

^^^ Very interesting story Carla. I have also heard of non-ferrous tooling designed for re-capping broken oil & natural gas wells where any spark could ignite a fire.
Reference: Red Adair and Devil's Cigarette Lighter.

 

[Carla]

Been lurkin around on here for a bit now.... After going through every page of this thread over the past few nights I got inspired to dig out one of my "extra vises" and clean it up. I can't find much info on it... only markings read "No. 345a, b, c, and Made in USA". It appears to have the swivel static jaw but I can't get the "pin" out of it to save my life. I'd love any info y'all could provide.

The castings on that vise appear to be the Reed make, or possibly Hollands. Presumably, that vise would have been made on contract for some sales firm who put their own brand logo sticker on it. (like the Wilton vises sold by the Snap-On dealers, and marked 'Snap-On' for example)

If so, the taper hole for the back jaw pin will be 'through' to the inside area of the back jaw. After removing the main nut, use little scraps of steel as may be needed to set up a little planer jack in the area under the taper pin, with the pressure screw of the planer jack co-planar with the taper pin.

Use a little scrap of round steel which will enter the hole below the taper pin, and bear on the bottom end of the pin.

Tighten the planer jack as much as you are reasonably able, and then 'rap' the top surface of the swivel back jaw alongside the jaw pin, using a copper drift and a 4lb, or so, hand hammer.

A few good 'whacks' should free up the taper pin.

If that doesn't free up the taper pin, set the back jaw assembly up in a Bridgeport class mill, and dial the pin in concentric with the spindle.

Drill/tap the taper pin 5/16-18, 1/2 to 3/4" dp., and run a short 5/16" stud into the pin.

Make up a short steel ring which will just clear the O. D. of the pin, and is 1/8" or so longer than the pin protrusion from the jaw casting. Add a few suitable washers, and wind down a nut on the stud, making a de-facto puller. Remember to use a graphite/oil mix on the threads.

Take care, as the pin may 'jump' with surprising velocity when it breaks loose, so you don't want to have your face in line with it.

That will surely remove the stuck pin.

If you have to tap the taper pin to remove it, find a 5/16"-18 forged eye-bolt, and thread that into the pin. Run a nice smooth bead of weld to secure the eye-bolt, and tell anyone who asks that its an original feature, so that the pin, if it sticks again, can be removed easily by twisting it with any suitable bar, and also so that the pin can be hung up on a convenient nail when not in use, to avoid mis-placing it.

(yes, I've 'been there, done that'........ : ) )

cheers

Carla

 

[willd]

The castings on that vise appear to be the Reed make, or possibly Hollands. Presumably, that vise would have been made on contract for some sales firm who put their own brand logo sticker on it. (like the Wilton vises sold by the Snap-On dealers, and marked 'Snap-On' for example)

If so, the taper hole for the back jaw pin will be 'through' to the inside area of the back jaw. After removing the main nut, use little scraps of steel as may be needed to set up a little planer jack in the area under the taper pin, with the pressure screw of the planer jack co-planar with the taper pin.

Use a little scrap of round steel which will enter the hole below the taper pin, and bear on the bottom end of the pin.

Tighten the planer jack as much as you are reasonably able, and then 'rap' the top surface of the swivel back jaw alongside the jaw pin, using a copper drift and a 4lb, or so, hand hammer.

A few good 'whacks' should free up the taper pin.

If that doesn't free up the taper pin, set the back jaw assembly up in a Bridgeport class mill, and dial the pin in concentric with the spindle.

Drill/tap the taper pin 5/16-18, 1/2 to 3/4" dp., and run a short 5/16" stud into the pin.

Make up a short steel ring which will just clear the O. D. of the pin, and is 1/8" or so longer than the pin protrusion from the jaw casting. Add a few suitable washers, and wind down a nut on the stud, making a de-facto puller. Remember to use a graphite/oil mix on the threads.

Take care, as the pin may 'jump' with surprising velocity when it breaks loose, so you don't want to have your face in line with it.

That will surely remove the stuck pin.

If you have to tap the taper pin to remove it, find a 5/16"-18 forged eye-bolt, and thread that into the pin. Run a nice smooth bead of weld to secure the eye-bolt, and tell anyone who asks that its an original feature, so that the pin, if it sticks again, can be removed easily by twisting it with any suitable bar, and also so that the pin can be hung up on a convenient nail when not in use, to avoid mis-placing it.

(yes, I've 'been there, done that'........ : ) )

cheers

Carla

Thanks, Carla... That was alot of help. You know, now that I think about it I think on the opposing side from the photos I posted there were some very small brass or copper rivets as if a badge of some sort was there at one time. I had never even thought about throwin a screw jack in there to break the pin loose.... Duh. Thanks again!

 

[bigcaddy]

I've seen a couple of the old bronze vises, one time and another, and have seen a couple of them listed on ebay. They are considered to be extremely 'collectible' and have been sold for a lot of $$$.

There may well have been some applications where they were desired for non-sparking qualities, but, some fairly large number of those were bought by the Navy for a very specific purpose.

At the Mare Island Naval Shipyard (MINS), in the S. F. bay area of California, there was a special 'non-magnetic' building located as far away as could be from the rest of the facility. The building was completely built of non-magnetic materials, wood with wooden pegs or dowels for its construction, or using brass or bronze screws and nails, with no ferrous metal anywhere.(presumably, the various other Navy yards had similar facilities)


Carla

Its funny you mention Mare Island Shipyard in response to my question. My grandfather purchased 4 Landis double header pipe threading machines from that very facility in the early 60's. When they came to out office, they were completly full of brass/bronze metal shavings and were most likely used near the non-ferrous facility. They even have some "anchor" stamps, (Navy), somewhere on the castings.

Does anybody want to see a picture of of my huge pipe tools They have an air chuck/vise?

 

[ZRX61]

I really want to find a Printiss Bulldog that needs some love.

You mean like the 2 I have for sale?

 

[K and K]

This is my Colubmbian model 606 I posted in one post earlier. I have been debating leaving the vise as is, or repainting it to look original.
Does anyone know how this Columbian would appear when new?
Im not positive, but what I was told is the newest it could be is the 1940's or 50's. Im sure there are people on here who no more than I do. Thank you.

 

[BrianJ]

How old is that C-0? Wilton made different jaws at different time periods. The date should be on the keyway underneath.

Sorry, it took awhile to get to the vice as it was buried deep in moving boxes.... I looked, but, couldn't find any date stamps. Where exactly do I need to look?

TIA,
Brian

 

[bigcaddy]

Here is a different looking little vise i found on CL in Mass.

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/for/2786439316.html

It looks similar to a light duty exposed screw vise but appears to have a enclosed screw like a Wilton Bullet Vise.

 

[Outlawmws]

Here is a different looking little vise i found on CL in Mass.

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/for/2786439316.html

It looks similar to a light duty exposed screw vise but appears to have a enclosed screw like a Wilton Bullet Vise.

That is a European vise, possibly Polish IIR?

Notice the jaw action is reversed. What would be the dynamic jaw on a US vise, is the stationary jaw on it.

I'd buy one just to clean up and have around if I found one. (But not at that price.. too many people think old cruddy and rusty = Valuable)

 

[bigcaddy]

I agree on the sentiment of rusty/cruddy= $$$. If that was the case, i would be a millionaire right now after selling what i have laying around my office and dads backyard.

 

[bl00]

Here is a different looking little vise i found on CL in Mass.

http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/for/2786439316.html

It looks similar to a light duty exposed screw vise but appears to have a enclosed screw like a Wilton Bullet Vise.

That's a Backus vise with a patented screw cover. US made 1869-ish. Backus merged with Millers Falls in 1873 , so it could also be a Millers Falls and not a Backus. Here's some history that includes a drawing of an earlier version of the vise.

 

[blue dog]

You mean like the 2 I have for sale?

Talk too me via pm please. Prefer one not rehabbed and the bigger the better.

 

[ssffnomad]

Great Forum. I did read about Mounting Vise , so the Static Jaw overhangs edge of Bench.
My Question is, when mounting a 3 Hole Swivel Base, on Corner of Bench, do you want all 3 holes turned towards outside edge ?

Painting Morgan Vise(Chicago), read they are all Blue. Scraped through Black and foung a little Red, no Blue ?
Federal Safety Blue was suggested, i found Krylon # 2416 Safety Blue.
Thanks