What to use on a Wooden Workbench

[mhenry]

I am new to wood working/painting and could use alittle direction. I just recently built a wooden workbench for the garage. The guy at home depot gave me deck paint. That didnt feel right so I am coming to you guys for some help.

It has a particle board top with 4 treated post at the corners. Ill be using the bench for general home repairs and automotive repairs. So it will see some brake cleaner and oil. I was wondering what I should put on the bench to help it hold up. This is not a show piece (obviously) but I would like to add alittle color.

Here are some pics (I couldnt get them to upload so I added them to an album on my account here):

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=1740

 

[6768rogues]

You could put on a piece of Masonite. It is a hard smooth working surface and is easily changed when it gets damaged.

 

[Mike F]

I agree with 6768rogues that masonite would be a good choice. This is especially since it looks as if you only have a single layer of OSB on the top. OSB is not particularly strong and the masonite- especially >1/4" thick, will give more structural rigidity if working on heavier pieces. Also, if not already there, I would add a 2 x 4 brace across the underside of the benchtop in the middle of it.

 

[Falcon67]

I used 3/4 ply on a work bench and painted it with a gray garage floor paint. Not an epoxy, just a good floor paint from Lowes mixed to a color close to my floor. It had all kinds of wood work, engine builds, transmission work, etc over 12 years and held up very well.

 

[Wes Tex]

I had someone give me a metal sign which I turned over and attached to the top of my work table. I have used it for about 15 years for all kinds of jobs. I have spilled enough oil on it that it has never rusted. The edges are even rolled up just enough to retain any spills. Perfect size.

 

[GRX]

So it will see some brake cleaner and oil. I was wondering what I should put on the bench to help it hold up.

Oil and brake cleaner will eat your particle board top for breakfast, deck paint and all. A metal cover of some kind is your best solution. Here is a bench I built from scratch. Probably good for 10,000 pounds. Do engine work on it all the time.

 

[rvr6000]

Not sure if this will work for you but on my bench the top is made up of 2x6's layed flat then a sheet of 3/4" particle board on top of that. I painted everything but purposely did not paint the particle board with the understanding when it gets too dirty and stained I can take it off and replace it with fresh stuff. Some day when I am rich I will replace the particle board with 1/2" high density plastic. That'll be about as permenant as you can get.

 

[rvr6000]

GRX - that metal top looks really good too.

 

[ZRX61]

Top on mine is 2x10's with a sheet of 1/4in masonite on top. Then it got a coat or 2 of polyurethane.

 

[Jawn]

Related question... hopefully not seen as a threadjack.

latex vs enamel, what'll hold up better? On mine, the top won't be a painted surface... just the support structure.

 

[PECVD2]

MHENRY,
It looks to be a 1/2" plywood top if that is the case you will be fine with some deck paint for general home use. BTW that is pretty nice for your first bench.

 

[collmorgen]

If you are going to use the bench for woodworking and auto repair, think about a second removable top for one purpose or the other. I built one out of a slab style door. Works good. Masonite is a good, cheap sacrificial surface.

 

[5lima30]

+1 on brake cleaner, solvents, etc, will eat up a particleboard top. I used a 1/4" piece of masonite over top 3/4" plywood for the top on my bench. Its worked well so far but... I am planning on topping it with tongue & groove hardwood fooring or possibly pine plank flooring coated with poly. One of my many projects on my to-do list!

 

[Greatwhitewing]

I bought some stainless steel bench tops from Sears. Pretty good quality at a decent cost.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00914962000P

I am new to wood working/painting and could use alittle direction. I just recently built a wooden workbench for the garage. The guy at home depot gave me deck paint. That didnt feel right so I am coming to you guys for some help.

It has a particle board top with 4 treated post at the corners. Ill be using the bench for general home repairs and automotive repairs. So it will see some brake cleaner and oil. I was wondering what I should put on the bench to help it hold up. This is not a show piece (obviously) but I would like to add alittle color.

Here are some pics (I couldnt get them to upload so I added them to an album on my account here):

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=1740

 

[mhenry]

Thanks for the responses guys. The top is 9/16in with 2x4s underneath for support. Let me look into the masonite/metal tops seems to make sense. Working on cars I fully expect the top to get destroyed. I like the idea of a seperate top.

 

[mhenry]

The dimensions of the bench top are 32in x 60in so it looks like those sears steel tops arent going to work. Where can I buy masonite tops? Homedepot/lowes?

 

[porphyre]

Henry - Yeah, they've got Masonite, but it's pricey.



I'll be the dissenting voice. Unless you're really planning to beat the **** out of that bench - torch it, DROP heavy transmissions, etc on it, leave brake fluid sitting on it for weeks, chop firewood on it, have to replace it every 8-12 months... I wouldn't bother w/ metal or Masonite.

You have to realize that all the fluid based damage is from stuff soaking in and attacking the wood. If you seal the wood, those attacks will be slowed or stopped. I would throw a coat of dark stain on the top, then cover it with at least one coat of polyurethane. That's minimal protection. If you want it to really last, take a week and put a thick coat of poly on it every day. I've got a tool cart that cleans up as well as my epoxy floor because it's got about 1/8" of poly on the top. Brake fluid makes it a little soft if I let it sit, but otherwise, the thing is bulletproof.

$5.50 for a quart of stain, $5.50 for a quart of poly. Done.

 

[Jawn]

$5.50 for a quart of stain, $5.50 for a quart of poly. Done.

Does the stain do anything other than to hide when something does seep through?

Polyurethane is what I had in mind for the top of the one I'm building (planned to use one of the pre-made maple tops from woodcraft/grizzly/etc)

 

[Falcon67]

Thanks for the responses guys. The top is 9/16in with 2x4s underneath for support. Let me look into the masonite/metal tops seems to make sense. Working on cars I fully expect the top to get destroyed. I like the idea of a seperate top.

I would agree that the OSB top is not going to put up with much.

I'll be the dissenting voice. Unless you're really planning to beat the **** out of that bench - torch it, DROP heavy transmissions, etc on it, leave brake fluid sitting on it for weeks, chop firewood on it, have to replace it every 8-12 months... I wouldn't bother w/ metal or Masonite.

FWIW - I could clean my painted ply top with Brake Clean or Berrymans. Made the paint all nice and shiny. After 12 years it could have used a quick sand and a recoat, but that garage belongs to someone else now.

The other tops are a great idea and I do all my transmission work on a bench with a galvanized top that is dedicated to that operation. Easy to clean. But for a long time they rolled around on painted plywood.

I plan to go to the metal scrap yard here (we have two actually) and look for a sizeable retired road sign. Those are made from very hard aluminum. If I find one, it can be had on a per lb price on the scale. Cut to fit, bend to suit. If not, I'll probably go painted ply again because it was just fine for a long time.

 

[porphyre]

Does the stain do anything other than to hide when something does seep through?

Polyurethane is what I had in mind for the top of the one I'm building (planned to use one of the pre-made maple tops from woodcraft/grizzly/etc)

Some people may disagree with me, but my experience shows stain penetrates deeper into the wood than polyurethane. The idea is the pores of the wood need to be sealed up tight and deep. If the pores are full of stain and poly, then they won't absorb oil. The stain helps the penetration protection, the poly provides the hard protection.

Use oil based stain and oil based poly.

Maple tops are nice. Wish I had one.

 

[wornoutoldman]

I used 3/4 ply on a work bench and painted it with a gray garage floor paint. Not an epoxy, just a good floor paint from Lowes mixed to a color close to my floor. It had all kinds of wood work, engine builds, transmission work, etc over 12 years and held up very well.

Agree with Falcon67 personally I wouldn't bother painting it.

 

[mhenry]

Use oil based stain and oil based poly.

I'll start with this. If I end up needing to cover it I can do that further down the road.

Again I am a nOOB so what kinds of oil based stains and polys should I be looking at? Are they all about the same?

 

[zip95864]

Some people may disagree with me, but my experience shows stain penetrates deeper into the wood than polyurethane. The idea is the pores of the wood need to be sealed up tight and deep. If the pores are full of stain and poly, then they won't absorb oil. The stain helps the penetration protection, the poly provides the hard protection.

Use oil based stain and oil based poly.

Maple tops are nice. Wish I had one.

Yep, stain and poly:

I did an antique stain 2 coats, 1 layer of Red Mahogany, and then two coats of Poly.

The bottom of the island is now enclosed on three sides and will be getting painted this weekend.

 

[porphyre]

Use oil based stain and oil based poly.

I'll start with this. If I end up needing to cover it I can do that further down the road.

Again I am a nOOB so what kinds of oil based stains and polys should I be looking at? Are they all about the same?

There are differences, but for what you're doing, just get Minwax brand from Lowes or Home Depot. Just make sure it's the OIL based. They also make water based versions and you don't want those. Minwax calls their oil based product "Wood Finish" . I would probably also choose the Minwax "High Build Polyurethane".

EDIT - After searching Lowes website, I think High Build is only sold in Gallons, which is way more than you need. "Fast Drying Polyurethane" would work too. Just read cans and make sure it's oil based.

 

[zip95864]

also, don't waste your time with the 2 in 1 stain plus poly ---- IMO the poly isnt anything like real polyurethane.

 

[regguy1]

Metal over the wood is the best way to go. I had a top custom made at a metal fab. shop, It might cost a bit more but it will stand up to hard use and last a lifetime. I used mine for over 30 yrs in a transmission shop.
"Cheapest isn't always the least expensive"
You can see the bench and top in the video link below

 

[eastbaysubaru]

Metal over the wood is the best way to go. I had a top custom made at a metal fab. shop, It might cost a bit more but it will stand up to hard use and last a lifetime. I used mine for over 30 yrs in a transmission shop.
"Cheapest isn't always the least expensive"
You can see the bench and top in the video link below

That's what I was thinking about doing. What type and thickness of metal did you use? My bench is ~20 feet long and ~3 feet deep so the cost could be way out of my price range.

-Brian

 

[Krash Kadillak]

You could put on a piece of Masonite. It is a hard smooth working surface and is easily changed when it gets damaged.

Home Depot sells what it calls "Tempered Hardboard" for $12.48 (3/16ths - 4x8 panel) - is this what you would call 'Masonite'...?

http://www.homedepot.com/Lumber-Com...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

 

[GRX]

How about harsh solvents breaking down the poly and paint? Or the adhesive that holds the particle board together for that matter. Which is why I would go with plywood instead at least. Again, I am still a big advocate of a metal top, just as regguy1 said a couple posts up. More expensive but really is the best option long-term.

Look around for local sheet metal shops and have them make a top to your specifications for you from scratch. That is what I did. Even helped them make it on the shear & break. But I have professional experience in such things. In any event, it's never a bad thing getting acquainted with metal & fabrication shops in your area.

 

[carhunter]

Home Depot sells what it calls "Tempered Hardboard" for $12.48 (3/16ths - 4x8 panel) - is this what you would call 'Masonite'...?

http://www.homedepot.com/Lumber-Com...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Dad built a bench in the 70's that still has the same piece of masonite on top. Its good stuff!