I have searched high and low for some one that has bolted two hf 13 drawer boxes together, swapped casters for swivels , and made them essentially one 90" box ? I have seen plenty of work benches set up like this but not a mobile unit. I'm looking to do something like this and any info or links to other threads would greatly appreciated ! This forum rocks by the way ! Haven't been able to get away from it since I stumbled across it.
Splicing two HF boxes together
- Thread starter Jnoone43
- Start date
chickenhauler
Well-known member
It's probably more of a mobility issue than anything. Plus, the 13 drawer boxes are on the narrow side, and two together would increase the odds of a tipover, unless the floor was perfectly smooth. I have one with both the cabinet on one side, and the drawers on the other, and it can be a challenge to move in tight quarters.
jjjrmx5
Well-known member
I've seen it done with 2 of the HF 5 dwr lift lid service carts.
Removed 2 of the wheels thus leaving 6 when bolted together and it was forever known as the "piggyback" cart.
I see no reason why it can't be done for the 41" boxes, but at that size it gets a little unwieldy in my eyes if trying to move it regularly.
Good luck.
Removed 2 of the wheels thus leaving 6 when bolted together and it was forever known as the "piggyback" cart.
I see no reason why it can't be done for the 41" boxes, but at that size it gets a little unwieldy in my eyes if trying to move it regularly.
Good luck.
Steevo
Well-known member
I think they'd be more stable bolted back-to-back, thereby increasing stability and ending up with a 37" x 41" surface.
I drew up this concept in Visio last year when playing around with ideas for benches.
My drawing included side cabinets, but you get the idea.
My only concerns would be with rolling around on uneven surfaces, where the stress of the attachment points would eventually break/crack the sheet metal of the backs of the boxes.
If you do this, I would recommend having at least six through-bolt locations, three high and three low, with some pieces of 1/8" x 4" flat bar cut into 4" lengths and used a big load-dispersing washers on each end, sandwiching the box backs between them.
I drew up this concept in Visio last year when playing around with ideas for benches.
My drawing included side cabinets, but you get the idea.
My only concerns would be with rolling around on uneven surfaces, where the stress of the attachment points would eventually break/crack the sheet metal of the backs of the boxes.
If you do this, I would recommend having at least six through-bolt locations, three high and three low, with some pieces of 1/8" x 4" flat bar cut into 4" lengths and used a big load-dispersing washers on each end, sandwiching the box backs between them.
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jjjrmx5
Well-known member
He said one 90" box steevo. Each 13 dwr is approx. 42" long, thus end to end will be 84" or "close" to 90"
(And no mention of the handing side box as well)
If you can find me something on that back to back config. for the 13 dwrs. alone that measures 90", I will send you a lovely gift.
I'm shooting for something like this just bolted together with one solid top throughout. I figure by swapping the solid casters for swivel units it may be a bit easier to maneuver around the shop if need be. I maybe wasting my time but I'm just looking for a way around dropping 5 grand on a comparable name brand box.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2018320&postcount=1459
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2018320&postcount=1459
IMO if you built a steel frame and attached your casters to that then bolted the boxes together and to the frame you would have a much more stable box. Perhaps even build a handle , something like a flat bed cart to push/pull on instead of the boxes would be even better. Let us know what you did along with some pictures!!!
thats not a bad idea. elaborating on steevo's suggestions... i was thinking of adding some 1/8" sheets of steel across the top, back and bottom of the box to stiffen it up. we'll see, once i get them and pull the drawers out i can brainstorm a little better. heres kind of what i was thinking:
<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v472/nasty5pt0/?action=view¤t=toolboxes_1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/nasty5pt0/toolboxes_1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Was thinking of doing just this the other day while looking at the 3 I bought, still think going the work bench route is going to be better though. Kind of like the back to back and make a mobile bench, also figured a frame would need to be built in any case. Do a back to back and cut the back lips off both boxes to have one nice level surface and you could fit a top box sideways on one end.
I even put the handles on both ends to see how that would work:
Think out loud, if you pulled the solid casters off the right box and left the swivels on the left box and had the frame to hold everything up and together it may turn alright. So you'd have two sets of swivels and one set of solids on the back.
I even put the handles on both ends to see how that would work:
Think out loud, if you pulled the solid casters off the right box and left the swivels on the left box and had the frame to hold everything up and together it may turn alright. So you'd have two sets of swivels and one set of solids on the back.
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E.T.Privott
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2011
- Messages
- 126
stop and think for a min. and use what we have learned from the big co. and all there expenses testing. the box need swivels on the corners, and if long a set in the center (so, mac, c-man, etc). uneven flooring we take a toll after time so a frame would be best for two, or three boxes put end to end. useing swivels only makes since for more mobilty and placment. now as for the top add ply wood to fill space and then one long top to cover and join all the top as a work area, either metal or plywood cover of the entire top well look and add to your shop work area in a big way. a steel frame, swivel wheels, a few pieces of plywood, less than a $100 bucks, a piece of metal for the top a little more = a rolling work table, tool box....hand made, priceless.
jjjrmx5
Well-known member
I like the "L" frame approach.
Weld up some heavy duty steel "L" to make a square cradle, add in lateral gussets, remove casters from the two boxes and mount them to ladder frame and... voila'.
Drop the two boxes side by side into said "bed frame" and you have a new long azz unit. Make sure casters are rated for all that weight tho if not reusing old ones.
I was vacuuming under the bed and matress frame this moring and did a WTF-what a great idea...
Weld up some heavy duty steel "L" to make a square cradle, add in lateral gussets, remove casters from the two boxes and mount them to ladder frame and... voila'.
Drop the two boxes side by side into said "bed frame" and you have a new long azz unit. Make sure casters are rated for all that weight tho if not reusing old ones.
I was vacuuming under the bed and matress frame this moring and did a WTF-what a great idea...
musgofasta
Well-known member
I just put the handles of my 2 44's on opposite ends and rammed them together with an 8' door on top of both of them.
I wouldn't want to be pushing a tool box around that was that long, especially if it was narrow.
ishiboo
Well-known member
Ray-CA
Well-known member
I think they'd be more stable bolted back-to-back, thereby increasing stability and ending up with a 37" x 41" surface.
I drew up this concept in Visio last year when playing around with ideas for benches.
My drawing included side cabinets, but you get the idea.
My only concerns would be with rolling around on uneven surfaces, where the stress of the attachment points would eventually break/crack the sheet metal of the backs of the boxes.
If you do this, I would recommend having at least six through-bolt locations, three high and three low, with some pieces of 1/8" x 4" flat bar cut into 4" lengths and used a big load-dispersing washers on each end, sandwiching the box backs between them.
I like this idea, but wouldn't it be stronger if the side boxes were on opposite ends of the main boxes? That would off-set the joint(s) and reduce the flex.
Ray
It'd probably help but if I were to do rolling box like that, I'd build a steel frame for it first.
Mickey O
Well-known member
I did something similar with two cardboard boxes, I just used duct tape, works great and the boxes were cheaper than the harbor freight tool boxes and do the exact same thing (hold tools).
moonpool145
Well-known member
Maybe these picts will help. The cart rolls really well with just the castors that were on the box and they are loaded heavy. The steel strap at the bottom holds it together along with the top that is bolted down. Also put some bolts through the backs at the bottom. I still need to bend up an aluminum top to put over the wood but it works great as is.
Maybe these picts will help. The cart rolls really well with just the castors that were on the box and they are loaded heavy. The steel strap at the bottom holds it together along with the top that is bolted down. Also put some bolts through the backs at the bottom. I still need to bend up an aluminum top to put over the wood but it works great as is.
Nice setup. I like how you broke up the workbench with the side boxes
Flathead Johnny
Well-known member
A**holes Garage
Banned
I'd fabricate an angle iron frame that captures the bottom of both boxes. Take the casters off the boxes and use 4 of them for the frame, or buy 4 new heavier caster if needed.
darkk
Well-known member
This might be closer to what you're looking for...
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126086&page=2
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126086&page=2