Abrasive cut off saw?

[george4]

I want something for occasional use and easier to use than a cut off disc in an angle grinder or hacksaw. Tubing up to 3-4”. I think a band saw is overkill for me. Dewalt, Ridgid and Milwaukee seem to have pretty competitive 14” models, 15 amps. Anyone use one of these?

 

[russlaferrera]

I have a Robie , used it over 20 years without any problems. I would recommend it and also get one with a quick release vice.

 

[IDASHO]

Ive got a 14" 15A Makita.

Nice unit. I have used and abused it for YEARS. Never complained.

 

[autoclassicnut]

I have a Milwaukee, I had to repair it once because I knocked it off the workbench. But that was my fault.It was easy to repair and parts were readily available. Had it now for over 10 years.

 

[nissan_crawler]

Dad bought a black and decker professional over 15 years ago. A few years after that, he bought a second one on a good sale in case the other went out. The old one got used non-stop on the farm, and the second one got used when both of us needed one, and now resides here with me. They're both still going strong 13-15 years of HARD abuse.

I fire it up, and pull down on it until it damn near stalls every time. It's put up with years of this, and still hasn't let out the smoke. We've always bought the blades by the case. We figured his has had at least 250 blades through it, and the one I have has easily put 100 blades through it. His has had so much metal through it, that the slot on the table for the blade has eroded to almost twice the original width.

Edit: Avoid hf blades. I had two blow up, one of them managed to bury itself in the wall on the other side of the garage. I promptly returned all HF abrasives. The reddish Dewalt blades make less mess, and last longer, than the standard black ones.

 

[W-Cummins]

Dad bought a black and decker professional over 15 years ago. A few years after that, he bought a second one on a good sale in case the other went out. The old one got used non-stop on the farm, and the second one got used when both of us needed one, and now resides here with me. They're both still going strong 13-15 years of HARD abuse.

Yep I have the same model they were the best at the time of course they are no longer made. The Dewalt tools started out from the B&D pro lines. I have not used the Dewalt chop saws but they still look a lot like the B&D pro line stuff did.
The B&D pro 4.5" grinders are as indestructible as the the chop saw..


William....

 

[64merc]

I've never used a chop saw before so I've got a stupid question for you:
How do you know when you need to change the blade? It doesn't break does it?

I'm thinking about buying one, if I find a nice used one (cheap, of course)

 

[george4]

I have not been able to tell the difference in various smaller cut off wheels in my angle grinder, are there differences in the larger 14” wheels I should consider?

 

[nissan_crawler]

I've never used a chop saw before so I've got a stupid question for you:
How do you know when you need to change the blade? It doesn't break does it?

I'm thinking about buying one, if I find a nice used one (cheap, of course)

Good ones won't break. They just wear down until you no longer can cut through the steel before the saw hits it's stop.

 

[nissan_crawler]

I have not been able to tell the difference in various smaller cut off wheels in my angle grinder, are there differences in the larger 14” wheels I should consider?

Red Dewalt blades, I swear by them.

 

[64merc]

Good ones won't break. They just wear down until you no longer can cut through the steel before the saw hits it's stop.

Oh, ok, I got it now. Kinda like the little dremel cut-off wheels, except bigger.

Will these things cut just about anything metal? round, square, plate, etc.?

 

[kbs2244]

I have checked them out but havn't been able to justify one yet.
How occasional is occasional?
I have been putting abrasive blades in my Skill saw for years.
But for 3 and 4 inch tube you would have to rotate it as you cut it.
Avoiding that may justify a 14 inch chop saw.

 

[nissan_crawler]

Oh, ok, I got it now. Kinda like the little dremel cut-off wheels, except bigger.

Will these things cut just about anything metal? round, square, plate, etc.?

Yep, as long as it fits in the saw.

 

[george4]

I have checked them out but havn't been able to justify one yet.
How occasional is occasional?
I have been putting abrasive blades in my Skill saw for years.
But for 3 and 4 inch tube you would have to rotate it as you cut it.
Avoiding that may justify a 14 inch chop saw.

I probably will not use it often, but I just took up welding and needed something to make cleaner metal cuts with. HD has the 14" Ridgid on sale for $150 so I may just get that. Any problems with an abrasive blade in a Skil saw? I can see how that would work well on wider pieces especially. Do you use some sort of guide?

 

[PoorOwner]

I like my milwaukee, I got mine used.. years ago, it was made in USA I think.
now it's still the same model number for many years.. free shipping from northern tool here $169 I hope it's still made here?

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_32181_32181

for blades I have asked on metalworking forum when I first got it.. Makita blades are recommended.. I bought them and works great, I don't recall exploding any..

 

[russlaferrera]

I use a magic marker line. I have cut 1/2 SS plate 27 in wide with a Skil saw.

About 14 " blades. When you can't cut any more metal. it's time to change the blade. All blades are not the same. You will feel the difference when cutting. Most name brands are good. The cost is more but they last a long time.

 

[george4]

I like my milwaukee, I got mine used.. years ago, it was made in USA I think.
now it's still the same model number for many years.. free shipping from northern tool here $169 I hope it's still made here?

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_32181_32181

for blades I have asked on metalworking forum when I first got it.. Makita blades are recommended.. I bought them and works great, I don't recall exploding any..

That seems like a pretty reasonabl price too.
The Ridgid box said "China"
The Milwaukee web site said "Milwaukee’s power tool and accessories are also manufactured to its exacting standards in modern facilities in Europe and throughout the world."
Color me not surprised.
I will be careful about the blades.

 

[nismomans13]

Red Dewalt blades, I swear by them.

http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/accessory_category_detail.asp?categoryID=4478
Are those the "red" blades you're talking about?

 

[rsanter]

I have the riobi and have used the dewalts
I think the dewalt has more power

bob

 

[kbs2244]

You use the abrasive blade in the Skill saw pretty much like you would use the saw for wood.
Cutting small stuff you just mark a line and cut to it.
When I had make long cuts to trim metal roof panels I clamped a 2x4 to the panels as a guide.

 

[george4]

You use the abrasive blade in the Skill saw pretty much like you would use the saw for wood.
Cutting small stuff you just mark a line and cut to it.
When I had make long cuts to trim metal roof panels I clamped a 2x4 to the panels as a guide.

The abrasive wheels I have seen that fit my skil saw (7”) are only 1/16" thick blades. I have used 1/16" on 4 ½" angle grinder with some success but I wonder about using 1/16 on the larger skil Saw?? How does that work? The 14” chop saws are 1/8" thick and seem to work pretty well. Using a straight edge seems like a good idea too.

 

[Kevin54]

Will these things cut just about anything metal? round, square, plate, etc.?

I use a DeWalt at work and regularly cut off hardened guide pins for dies up to 2" diameter. It goes through them with no problem. Tube steel is like nothing. So here's to a DeWalt

 

[TxDoc]

I did not get to read each post as I am exhausted and going to bed, soon. So, sorry for any repeat info.

You said for occaisional use, but did not have a price range, at least I don't remember one. I bought the last one on Ebay-refurbished with a 5-year guarantee. I don't remember what I paid. A new one is just over $300 to $370.

Anyway, just throwing our three possiblilities.

1-

$99.00 and maybe use a 15% or 20% coupon?

* High performance 15 amp motor
* Guide plate adjusts 45 degrees left and right
* Fully shielded bearings ensure smooth operation
* Spindle lock for quick wheel changes
* Quick release vise
* Easy access brushes

120 volt, 15 amp, 3500 RPM, 1'' arbor, Cutting capacities: 4'' round stock, 4-1/2'' square stock; Overall dimensions: 25-1/2'' L x 18-1/2'' W x 10-3/4'' H; Shipping weight: 36 lbs.

2- 14'' HEAVY DUTY CHOP SAW

14'' HEAVY DUTY CHOP SAW

* 3.2 HP, 15 amp, 120VAC, motor
* 3900 RPM maximum speed
* Heavy duty cast base
* One piece carrying handle
* All ball bearing construction
* 5'' pipe cutting capacity
* Angle cutting to 45°
* Five year manufacturer's limited warranty



Milwaukee# 6176-20
ITEM 39755-4VGA

$199.99
3-Milwaukee Dry Cut Chop Saw — 14 in., Model# 6190-20
72 and 90 tooth blades

The 6190-20 utilizes dry (a.k.a. cold) cut technology which will cut on average three times faster than an abrasive machine and costs 1-1/2 times less to operate. The saw produces little to no sparks when cutting and leaves a virtually burr-free finish. Cuts angle, unistrut, steel studs, channel, conduit, tubing and pipe. The base is a heavy-duty cast aluminum reinforced with a 1/4 in. steel plate. Tool-free 3/8in. vise and back fence. The horizontal D-handle provides optimum comfort whether the tool is on the ground or sitting on a bench.

Good luck on your search. I think you will be pleased with your new saw!

 

[Bib Overalls]

The abrasive wheels I have seen that fit my skil saw (7”) are only 1/16" thick blades. I have used 1/16" on 4 ½" angle grinder with some success but I wonder about using 1/16 on the larger skil Saw?? How does that work? The 14” chop saws are 1/8" thick and seem to work pretty well. Using a straight edge seems like a good idea too.

I have used the abrasive blades in my skill saw for years without any problems. One thing I do is let the saw cool down between cuts. The sparks transfer a lot of heat into the saw and that can not be good. I have cut material up to 1/2" thick without any difficulty. With carefull layout and clamped in place guides you can make very accurate cuts. You can see an example here:

http://flickr.com/photos/ratpoison/1245086019/in/set-72157601679531790/

 

[george4]

I did not get to read each post as I am exhausted and going to bed, soon. So, sorry for any repeat info.

You said for occaisional use, but did not have a price range, at least I don't remember one. I bought the last one on Ebay-refurbished with a 5-year guarantee. I don't remember what I paid. A new one is just over $300 to $370.

Anyway, just throwing our three possiblilities.

1-

$99.00 and maybe use a 15% or 20% coupon?

* High performance 15 amp motor
* Guide plate adjusts 45 degrees left and right
* Fully shielded bearings ensure smooth operation
* Spindle lock for quick wheel changes
* Quick release vise
* Easy access brushes

120 volt, 15 amp, 3500 RPM, 1'' arbor, Cutting capacities: 4'' round stock, 4-1/2'' square stock; Overall dimensions: 25-1/2'' L x 18-1/2'' W x 10-3/4'' H; Shipping weight: 36 lbs.

2- 14'' HEAVY DUTY CHOP SAW

14'' HEAVY DUTY CHOP SAW

* 3.2 HP, 15 amp, 120VAC, motor
* 3900 RPM maximum speed
* Heavy duty cast base
* One piece carrying handle
* All ball bearing construction
* 5'' pipe cutting capacity
* Angle cutting to 45°
* Five year manufacturer's limited warranty



Milwaukee# 6176-20
ITEM 39755-4VGA

$199.99
3-Milwaukee Dry Cut Chop Saw — 14 in., Model# 6190-20
72 and 90 tooth blades

The 6190-20 utilizes dry (a.k.a. cold) cut technology which will cut on average three times faster than an abrasive machine and costs 1-1/2 times less to operate. The saw produces little to no sparks when cutting and leaves a virtually burr-free finish. Cuts angle, unistrut, steel studs, channel, conduit, tubing and pipe. The base is a heavy-duty cast aluminum reinforced with a 1/4 in. steel plate. Tool-free 3/8in. vise and back fence. The horizontal D-handle provides optimum comfort whether the tool is on the ground or sitting on a bench.

Good luck on your search. I think you will be pleased with your new saw!

Small world, I was looking at the Milwaukees when a friend gave me one that looks the top one you show, HF I think but it is handy and works fine with a Norton Blade. It is noisy but I will use it until it dies and get the dry cut probably. I like the idea of a cleaner finish.

 

[george4]

I have used the abrasive blades in my skill saw for years without any problems. One thing I do is let the saw cool down between cuts. The sparks transfer a lot of heat into the saw and that can not be good. I have cut material up to 1/2" thick without any difficulty. With carefull layout and clamped in place guides you can make very accurate cuts. You can see an example here:

http://flickr.com/photos/ratpoison/1245086019/in/set-72157601679531790/

I will do that for the longer cuts, thanks. Where in CA were you a hot rodder?

 

[Worsedog]

The dry cut is great I used one at a sprayer spreader outfit I used to work for. Just make sure to go back to an abrasive blade if you are going to cut stainless. We had a guy destroy two blades in less than a week on stainless, yet om mostany other steel including hardened they lasted for months of abuse.

 

[Nightshift]

If anyone has made themself a nice stand for their chop saw, post them here ... http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18456 ... so we can all steal your ideas shamelessly!

 

[Mr_fixit]

I have a Ryobi abrasive chop saw, And the 6190 Milwaukee Dry Cut saw.
Now (almost always) I use the dry cut.

Pros Dry CUT :It cuts way cleaner, quicker, almost no filing of parts needed, . less hot sparks everywhere. Ebay has blades for about $30-40 each.
Cons : it has its limits. Besides being at least 2x the cost of an abrasive saw , you can't cut hardened stuff , or real thick stuff with the dry cut. (Because it will ruin the blade) And dry cut blades cost way more. and if you don't know what you're doing you'll kill dry cut blades quick. Noisy. Stainless cutting blades available for stainless , but cost even more.


Ryobi Pros: cuts everything, regardless if it's hardened or not
Cons: blades get smaller and smaller with every cut. hot sparks go EVERYWHERE. Requires significant filing of metal after cutting. Noisy. Stay away from china junk blades.

It's my opinion, you should eventually get both if you'll be doing alot of fabricating. And a band saw, too. But you can cut just about everything with the abrasive. My ryobi is at least 10 years old.

 

[PoorOwner]

I have both and I would use dry cut saw for angle or square tubing..
for rods, exhaust pipes, I use abrasive.

Also I only use dry saw if the object can be clamped down, due to possible kick back it is not safe to just hold it with your hand.. seeing how the 14" carbide blade can cut through metal like butter I do not want my hands near it either.

 

[george4]

Stay away from china junk blades.
QUOTE]
Good point. I do not know about China but I did have some cheap blades that wobbled and were scary, tossed them. I have been using Nortons from HD on my 14" cut off and 4 1/2 angle grinder with good results, they run true. The blades looked the same on the counter but I was surprised at the great difference in the blades when they came up to speed.

 

[Red'n'WhiteRebel]

I want something for occasional use and easier to use than a cut off disc in an angle grinder or hacksaw. Tubing up to 3-4”. I think a band saw is overkill for me. Dewalt, Ridgid and Milwaukee seem to have pretty competitive 14” models, 15 amps. Anyone use one of these?

Did you pull the trigger on the saw purchase? If so what do you think? As usual, this thread has got me thinkin' on new toys.

 

[george4]

Did you pull the trigger on the saw purchase? If so what do you think? As usual, this thread has got me thinkin' on new toys.

Lucked out, a friend gave me an extra 14" chop saw he had. HF I think, but once I discovered that blades are very important, all is well. I tossed the cheap blades for the chop saw. Replaced it a Norton 14”, as well as a 4 ½” for my cutt off and a 7’’ for my skil saw. Everything cuts much smoother now because the new blades run true. I just did not realize how much wobble there was in the cheap blades. I will probably pick up a dry saw also. If you want saws, plenty of toys to pick from

 

[BerBer5985]

I found it interesting that those norton blades say made in china on them. Is there anything made in the us anymore?

 

[Joe69]

We have a very old 220v 16" chop saw at work, it's a horse! I don't think it's possible to stall that thing. I have an old B&D 14" at home, it does great for me.

Joe

 

[arkangel06]

I use a 14'' makita its taken alot of abuse and keeps on chugging!

 

[tcianci]

Correct me if I'm wrong but, I think you can also cut non ferrous metals with the dry saw as it is a true saw blade and not an abrasive cut off saw. I know the abrasive blades are designed only for steel and like any other abrasive wheel they will "load up" if used on non ferrous metals and that causes the wheel to overheat and possible failure.

 

[danski0224]

Dry cut saw is the way to go.

A dry saw has a lower operating RPM than an abrasive cut-off saw... so while those nice carbide blades will fit... don't put one in an abrasive saw. RPM's are too high.

 

[ephotrod]

SAIT make some of the best blades and grinding wheel. I have never had one break and have gone through 4 boxes.
Josh

 

[nissan_crawler]

Dry cut saw is the way to go.

A dry saw has a lower operating RPM than an abrasive cut-off saw... so while those nice carbide blades will fit... don't put one in an abrasive saw. RPM's are too high.

There are carbide blades for chopsaws.