Can crush/run be used as a fill

[stump615]

I'm gonna have to fill 12"to24" to get to height,can compacted crush/run or small gravel with dust -(has different names depending on area)be used to obtain the correct height to pour? Its a little cheaper than #57/ 3/4 rock and heared it compacts good to reduce any settle

 

[zporta]

Yes, is the slab a lot higher then the surrounding grade?

 

[stump615]

The slab will be higher,will range from 6-8 inches to 24 inches ant lowest corner.Whatever fill I end up with will be contained in a turndown style pour.

 

[KenC]

In my area it's called crusher run. I use 3/4" crusher run. That means that you get everything that will pass a 3/4" screen. And it does compact well, great fill.

 

[stump615]

Kinda up in the air on what would be best to use,maybe a load of fill dirt,then crushed or crush then 3/4 rock.Just trying to figure what would be better yet cheapest

 

[zporta]

It's fill, use whatever you can throw in the hole.

Without more info on the build it's really hard to give more info. Concrete walls, block? Any pier pockets or keyway for the concrete to lock into? If block is there a ledge for concrete to rest on? If not drill and dowel all around the garage

 

[stump615]

Its a pole garage with limited space for much overflow to build up a bigger area,so gonna fill middle and pour to form a turndown around edge of building ,in other words will end up with a concrete wall below the metal

 

[zporta]

So you will not have footings correct? Just a monolithic slab with a turned down face around the perelimter?

Whatever full you use I would use a tamper to fully compact the fill.

Also is the perimeter of the slab resting on virgin ground?

 

[stump615]

No footings,most of it is virgin soil,according to 3 concrete guys around here it shouldnt be a problem-I hope they are right

will be compacted

 

[Torque1st]

Use the crusher run material. Use a compactor on the excavation. Spread the crushed gravel out about 6" thick and run a compactor over it, then add another 6" 'lift' and run the compactor again. Repeat until the proper level is reached.

 

[jimp]

You might have you hauler check the local concrete plants. I used the waste from my local plant under my slab. They gave it away, I only had to pay for tranport. It makes a very good fill.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Make sure you scrape off any grass or other vegatation before you start adding fill. I usaually wet the fill as I'dcompacting it.

 

[olytdi]

When I leveled my site prior to build, it required about a hundred tons of material that ended up being about 4 ft deep on the low slope side up to near nothing at the native grade on the upslope side. The fill material was 4 inch or so and finer (all the fines) which ended-up compacting like concrete. It's amazing 5 years later, you need a pick to punch through the stuff. after the frame went up, the interior area was topped with 3/4 clean gravel prior to the pour.

I will be extending the foot print out on the low slope side this summer and plan to use the same material again -- it holds remarkably well and does not slump or erode.

 

[jjpp]

As long as it has the fines/dust in it will work great. You just want to remove any organic material as it will decay and settle over time. I would compact every 6" to 10" with a plate compactor and wet each layer with the hose before compacting.
Skirting the sides with concrete is a good idea, I find that the critters like to try and dig their way in if you don't.

 

[stump615]

Thx for all the info,all organic has been removed,will ck with local concrete co monday to see what they have for cheap fill.

 

[Fastback]

As was mentioned above, washout from a cement truck compacts tight and is often free.

 

[lineman88]

When I was buying crusher run for under my driveway the stone yard suggested reclaimed asphalt as a cheaper alternative - apparently compacts like concrete! I didn't go with it bc I have a crushed stone driveway and in thinned areas I'd rather see crusher run than black asphalt but if you are cementing on top, I think it would be fine.

Also remember to compact in 4-6 inch lifts.

 

[deuces2]

I went through this last fall,good info being provided,I used 80 tons - 4,semis but i spaced them out over a week and wetted and packed by running over with pick-up and case back-hoe

the skeleton went up

in the dry in 3 days

Packer

Packed

Poured

Never done

 

[theoldwizard1]

Use the crusher run material. Use a compactor on the excavation. Spread the crushed gravel out about 6" thick and run a compactor over it, then add another 6" 'lift' and run the compactor again. Repeat until the proper level is reached.

+1 !

What you don't want in fill is organic matter. It will eventually break down and cause a pocket that will cave in.

 

[billfig]

Wow deuces2, I like your latest building! what size & cement?

 

[stump615]

Good looking building deuces2,thx for adding the pics

 

[deuces2]

My latest building is 24 x50 ,I added re-bar ,wired and chaired,the mix averaged 5 inches,we used pretty close to 18 yards,at just under 100 $ a yard.

 

[cderalow]

Fwiw, you really shouldn't store a loader with the bucket in the air. Rear arm on the ground or not.

I have seen an unloaded one flipped by wind, and hydraulics loose pressure and collapse on stuff.

 

[deuces2]

Fwiw, you really shouldn't store a loader with the bucket in the air. Rear arm on the ground or not.

I have seen an unloaded one flipped by wind, and hydraulics loose pressure and collapse on stuff.

I respect your advise and care,Thank You . My Case has a fairly fail-safe steel arm that slides in place along the loader lift hydraulic ram when the loader is lifted for engine servicing,or tight storage spaces and locks out the possibility of the loader lowering unless there is some kind of catistrophic failure.

 

[stump615]

Spoke to my local concrete company and the washout is free,they have one of their drivers haul it on the side for $40-$50 a 20 ton load.That sounds cheap enough