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My $9 tool score

Brad54

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Jun 13, 2006
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4,646
found a junkyard that's been closed since the '70s or so. We went there yesterday, and while everyone else crawled over the cars (which I really SHOULD have been doing!) I spent a two hours in the fall-down shop building looking for things.
Literally, it was falling down. As in, don't grab that support beam as you crawl over everything, because part of the roof will come down. (As it did when my friend made that mistake! :willy_nil )
You literally had to climb over everything to go through there. Box, trash and junk had been thrown in for years, and there was no longer any floor space visible.

While I was in there, another guy pulled out a set of factory chrome FE valve covers in good shape. There were treasures to be had.

I got this pile of tools, and the little Rigid Tools wall board (metal frame with pegboard; 17x20 inches)

Haven't cleaned anything yet.
The haul includes the SK sockets in the SK box (including some impacts, a universal and a 1/2-inch swivel socket), two Proto sockets and open wrench, five Williams sockets, a Thorson sliding T-handle, Husky 3/8 ratchet and 1/2-to-3/8 adapter, a few no-name sockets and universal joint, a couple no-name wrenches (I think the middle one is MAC or Billings, based on the shape, the only thing I can find on the double open is the sizes and Made in USA), three Vise Grips welding clamps (the one with fingers has a broken mechanism), a huge cold chisel, a decent sized Cincinatti Tool C-clamp, a Klein lineman's pliers, no-name side dikes, a no-name slim profile hacksaw, and an Imperial 1/4-inch tubing bender.

There's a lone Craftsman with the line under the name (shown) a newer 1/4-drive 9/32 socket (perfect for starter wire leads on vintage cars), and three Snap-on 3/8 drive sockets: a 1/4, a 5/16 and a 5/8.

$9 for all of 'em.

I also got a couple of vises: a wide-jaw but small Columbia with a swivel base, and a Reed fixed-base. I bought these to part-out. both are missing the screw's nut, and the Reed's dynamic jaw/main housing is broken.

Everything is going in the molasses bath today. The Husky ratchet is going back to Home Depot for a replacement, as will the Vise Grips with the fingers.

There was a HUGE C-clamp there that I left.. the guy wanted $40 for it. It weighted about 8 pounds and had a 16-inch opening. He was a dickering kinda guy, so I could have probably got it for $20... but I've got pipe clamps in the shop to hold things that big, and hydraulic presses to squeeze things that big.

The gems (as far as I'm concerned) are the Imperial tubing bender, the welding clamps and the hacksaw.
The rest is getting cleaned up and will go to the swap meet.

-Brad
 

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Outlawmws

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The Badlands
Good deal! I love rooting through places like that. You can really get some diamonds in the rough. (sometimes real diamonds! :lol: )
 

odelay01

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Feb 1, 2012
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Brunswick, GA
Brad54,

Can you explain "molasses bath"? Is this a technique for cleaning or removiving rust that I am not aware of? Thanks.
 
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Brad54

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Brad54,

Can you explain "molasses bath"? Is this a technique for cleaning or removiving rust that I am not aware of? Thanks.

I've got a friend who swears by it. I just set up the bath and dropped the tools in an hour ago.

Basically, you go to your local farm feed store and buy either granulated molasses, or concentrated liquid molasses. (Yes, it's the same kind of stuff granny used to make cookies with)

Mix 10:1 water-to-molasses, drop the tools in and walk away for two weeks or so.

The chemicals react with oxygen, and in the case of iron oxide, the rust. It "eats" the rust but leaves the parent metal alone, unlike acid which eats the parent metal too.

I've seen parts done in it, and they come out nice and clean. Well, they come out coated in molasses and grunge, which washes off with warm water and a light brushing.
It's completely bio-degradable, so when you're done you can dump it down the drain or dump it in the yard.

The big downside I've seen with my friend's set-up is that after a while, the molasses smells like an open sewer.
Not the kind of thing I want in the shop.

I just made a 5-gallon bucket of the stuff and dropped 'em in, so we'll see how it turns out in a couple weeks.

I've also got a really rust wrench bubbling away in the electrolysis tank.

-Brad
 

Outlawmws

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The Badlands
I've got a friend who swears by it. I just set up the bath and dropped the tools in an hour ago.

Basically, you go to your local farm feed store and buy either granulated molasses, or concentrated liquid molasses. (Yes, it's the same kind of stuff granny used to make cookies with)

Mix 10:1 water-to-molasses, drop the tools in and walk away for two weeks or so.

The chemicals react with oxygen, and in the case of iron oxide, the rust. It "eats" the rust but leaves the parent metal alone, unlike acid which eats the parent metal too.

I've seen parts done in it, and they come out nice and clean. Well, they come out coated in molasses and grunge, which washes off with warm water and a light brushing.
It's completely bio-degradable, so when you're done you can dump it down the drain or dump it in the yard.

The big downside I've seen with my friend's set-up is that after a while, the molasses smells like an open sewer.
Not the kind of thing I want in the shop.

I just made a 5-gallon bucket of the stuff and dropped 'em in, so we'll see how it turns out in a couple weeks.

I've also got a really rust wrench bubbling away in the electrolysis tank.

-Brad

You can also use molasses from any supermarket.

Paint the bucket flat black and get it in the sun, higher temperatures make it work faster. (cover the bucket too... this may help with the smell issue I never noticed that, but I think I was done in about a week...)

It is slow, and taking the rusty parts/tools out and giving them a quick scrub every day or so will also speed the process. (It takes off the "protective" layer of grunge, and gets fresh molasses mix against the rust...)

You don't need to make it up in big batches, I used a flat Tupperware container and for what I was doing, it worked fine.

Phosphoric acid does not eat iron/steel (Jasco metal etch) Other acids probably will.
 
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Brad54

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Some cool stuff Brad.
Did you get any pictures of the yard ?
Is it getting cleared out because of legal issues ?


They didn't allow cameras. In fact, when they saw mine, they chased me down and said I had to put it away!

It's getting cleared out because the old man died... he hadn't run the yard for years and years... now his adult children are dividing up the proceeds, with one of the adult grandchildren running things while it's cleared out.

-Brad
 
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Brad54

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man, a yard closed since the 70's. gotta be some great cars in there. anything catch your eye?

Unfortunately, I'm a little late to the party... they had two other guys come in and claim everything car they want, marked with their initials spray painted on the windshields. "LD" and "some other guy got a LOT of stuff... like, well over 100 cars between them.

I doubt there's anything that could be restored, but there are a LOT of good parts left. My buddy found a '54 Buick with all the AC gear still on it.

-Brad
 

JSharp

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Jan 22, 2008
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158
Location
Kansas City
Does that hacksaw say PROTO on it? I have one just like it, I was wondering because mine says proto on it but has a 3 digit part # that doesnt show up in any proto site that I have been able to locate.
My hacksaw is at work, I can get the part # this week. will post a photo too.
 
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Brad54

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Does that hacksaw say PROTO on it? I have one just like it, I was wondering because mine says proto on it but has a 3 digit part # that doesnt show up in any proto site that I have been able to locate.
My hacksaw is at work, I can get the part # this week. will post a photo too.

I didn't see any manufacturer's marks on it, and it's not super-rusty... but honestly I didn't look for a manufacturer either.
My dad has one very similar to it--in fact, the last time I visited them, I took pics of it because I thought it'd be an interesting project to make one.

I've got a Craftsman one with he same blade holder and top bar, but a much fuller handle... it's cast aluminum and is shaped like a wood file handle, only a little fuller than that even.

Right now the handle is seized on the threads, and 20 minutes with PB Blaster didn't loosen it... I'll play with it more after it comes out of the molasses bath.

My friend runs a manufacturing technology program for a highschool, and said he'd like to copy it for a class project, and maybe a fund-raiser.

-Brad
 

ihredo4

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Sep 3, 2009
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100 miles W of Daileyville in Idiotnois
Nice haul you made. I believe your hack saw there was used in a machine shop. When I ran multi spindle screw machines that was the only type of saw that would get in to cut the stock in the confined spaces. Love the saw since it saved a lot of headaches. lol
 

JSharp

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Jan 22, 2008
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Got photos of my Proto hacksaw today. What is a 344 proto part number anyway. weird.
 

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