Panel Manufacturer Recommendations?

[nwav8tor]

I'm looking to put a main lug subpanel in my garage. Any opinions regarding which panel and circuit breakers are better? I can get Eaton/Cutler Hammer, Siemens, GE or HomeLine products at my local box stores...

Thanks,
Paul

 

[Norcal]

I'm looking to put a main lug subpanel in my garage. Any opinions regarding which panel and circuit breakers are better? I can get Eaton/Cutler Hammer, Siemens, GE or HomeLine products at my local box stores...

Thanks,
Paul

Avoid GE, Cutler-Hammer BR, SQ D Homoline.

Top choice is Cutler-Hammer CH "Classic" 'cause SQ D has cheaped out on their panels, but SQ QO® & Siemens are good 2nd choices.

In all reality, a subpanel sould be the same make as the main panel, unless the main panel is obsolete like Zinsco/Sylvania or FPE Stab-Lok garbage or a ITE Pushmatic which was the only residential bolt-on breaker loadcenter, but is obsolete, Wadsworth & SQ D Trillaint are a few other obsolete makes.

 

[MrMark]

Why? What difference does it make if they match or not?

 

[chickenhauler]

I've put two Murray mains in now and have no complaints. Going against what a lot of people would say, I use Murray, GE and Siemens breakers. Anything is better than the stab style Federal Pacific's and old rusty fuse boxes that they replaced.

 

[acer66]

Why? What difference does it make if they match or not?

I guess you can swap breaker and spares work in every panel.
To me it looks it is a convenience/logistic thing but I could be wrong.

 

[pattenp]

I saw your other post. Get the same brand as your main so you can reuse/move breakers from the main to the sub. That is unless your main is some really crappy brand.

 

[Norcal]

Why? What difference does it make if they match or not?

It shows poor judgement. the install is a hacked up mess.

 

[Norcal]

I've put two Murray mains in now and have no complaints. Going against what a lot of people would say, I use Murray, GE and Siemens breakers. Anything is better than the stab style Federal Pacific's and old rusty fuse boxes that they replaced.

Murray & Siemens are pretty much the same now, you just cannot mix & match the breakers even though they are both old ITE designs.

 

[ishiboo]

It shows poor judgement. the install is a hacked up mess.

How so? If you have an existing main panel which is junk (BR I guess? FPE?), why add a new BR sub-panel and not a QO or CH? There is zero technical/electrical reason to have them the same.

Since we are sharing opinions, I'll add in I think the Square D QO is the best combination made. From lab tests of the actual quick trip times of the QO and Homeline breakers, to my in-service experience with the three (QO, Homeline and CH), the QO's have all been flawless. I have one that I believe is a good 35-40 years old, which has all the original breakers for at least the 27 years I can account for it (except for a couple additions). I would bet my safety on either of the Square D breakers (QO or Homeline, same guts) before any other, and that's the most important part of a load center. The visi-trip indicators are common sense.

Meanwhile, my CH has buzzing breakers that didn't make it 10 years, including 2 out of a 20-space panel which don't trip properly... I thought it was a power or load issue so I borrowed an expensive Fluke graphing meter and the power quality is fine. Makes sense since none of the QO panels do anything. Even the Push-matic I replaced (QO 6/12) was fine

All this **** about copper busbars and panel quality of the QO/Homeline, I say: blah. Aluminum is used for distribution because it's cheaper, you need a bit more but it's very reliable... that's why your service entrance cables are typically Al. The busses are tin-plated and I bet subject to less corrosion than the bare copper bus on my CH, not that I've seen either develop issues due to it.

There's a reason that small commercial/industrial installations still spec the QO 40some years later.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Murray & Siemens are pretty much the same now, you just cannot mix & match the breakers even though they are both old ITE designs.

Siemens breakers and Murray breakers are the exact same parts, and are approved for both panels. I found this somewhere on the Siemens web site (which is difficult to find anything on). Not sure why Siemens even maintains Murray as a separate brand name, the components are all identical, Murray doesn't even have a web site, just some pages on the Siemens web site.

Charles

 

[Highbeam]

I sure do like the quality of my Siemens main and sub panels. I purchased and installed both several years apart and the only "problem" I have had was that I stripped out the stupid holes that are used to screw the green cover to the actual panel box. The copper busses impress me, the preinstalled neutral and ground bars, the feel and heft of the breakers, and the price.

I'm a siemens man. Guilty as charged.

 

[acer66]

I use BR and have no problems for a few years now.

 

[sberry]

If I was doing it over would probably pick Homeline, so much cheaper, the stuff is everywhere.

 

[MrMark]

It shows poor judgement. the install is a hacked up mess.

How does the fact of having two different make of panels say anything about the quality of the install? You have nothing behind this argument, if it could even be so characterized. You can do better.

The breaker swap between panels is pretty much meaningless. I mean so what? How often does anyone do this? I can live with this "inconvenience."

 

[theoldwizard1]

HD stocks Square D and GE breakers and a 3rd brand.

 

[mrb]

Why? What difference does it make if they match or not?

doesnt really apply in 99% of residential installations, but the answer is: series ratings (this should make for a fun discussion)

 

[straightup]

SquareD.
The 200A homelines with the meter on top and breakers on bottom are nice and roomy. The newer Siemens are pretty roomy too.
STAY away from GE load centers. They're a pain to wire and work in later.

 

[MrMark]

doesnt really apply in 99% of residential installations, but the answer is: series ratings (this should make for a fun discussion)

I have half an idea what this means. Why don't you explain short circuit current ratings and the series ratings. I'm assuming they are related.

 

[Teken]

FPE Stab-Lok garbage

This is not a stab at Norcal as I respect very much what he says in this forum. But, would like to clarify one point for all of those not familiar with the two names.

Which in Canada, gets a very bad rap because the abbreviated names are always related when in fact they are NOT and used in the Internet endlessly.

FPE - Federal Pacific Electric = Bad

FPE - Federal Pioneer Electric = Good

Teken . . .

 

[cowboyjosh]

Square D QO is what I have in my house; and that along with Cutler Hammer CH is what I recommend if you want top shelf.

On houses I build usually its Homeline or BR often just to save cost, we've never had anyone walk away from a house because of the electrical panels.

 

[pattenp]

I'm sure that's true. since most home buyers don't know their *** from a hole in the ground when it comes to service panels.

Square D QO is what I have in my house; and that along with Cutler Hammer CH is what I recommend if you want top shelf.

On houses I build usually its Homeline or BR often just to save cost, we've never had anyone walk away from a house because of the electrical panels.

 

[sberry]

In general how much you think this really matters?

 

[krinson]

I'm looking to put a main lug subpanel in my garage. Any opinions regarding which panel and circuit breakers are better? I can get Eaton/Cutler Hammer, Siemens, GE or HomeLine products at my local box stores... Are there certain circuit breakers I should be looking to buy used or new?

Thanks,
Paul

I would go for eaton/cutler hammer breakers followed by GE just from good personal experience. I've got four ge breakers that have lasted well over 20 years now.