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Any Truss Experts??

93L#3008

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I am debating on whether I want to go 16' sidewall or 14' with scissor truss. Concerned that it is too close to the house to go 16' sidewalls. Like to get 20'+ inside peak height for inside basketball goal and still be able to shoot from the sides. Any websites that will calculate different roof pitches or anyone with experience? trusses will be 44' wide
 
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mmhouse

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I would think that a truss manufacturer/supplier could produce the engineering/drawing for you in no time and give you a price. You should be able to get any height you want.
 

atotalnincompoop

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i went with a 10' side wall and an 8/12 outside, 5/12 inside scissor truss configuration, actually the wall is 10' 4.5" with the bottom and double top plates.
this gives me over 17' inside at the peak of the ceiling. sounds like a lot , right?
its actually a bit of a screw up!
with my garage door placement being what it is, i had to go with a low headroom 2 post lift, had i of bought a regular 2 post lift, the thing would of been way to close to the centre of the room just to make it fit under the ceiling.
i have made it all work, but i should of thought it out better before instead of after.
you should decide on the brand of equipment and know the dimensions before finallizing any plans:beer:
 
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93L#3008

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i went with a 10' side wall and an 8/12 outside, 5/12 inside scissor truss configuration, actually the wall is 10' 4.5" with the bottom and double top plates.
this gives me over 17' inside at the peak of the ceiling. sounds like a lot , right?
its actually a bit of a screw up!
with my garage door placement being what it is, i had to go with a low headroom 2 post lift, had i of bought a regular 2 post lift, the thing would of been way to close to the centre of the room just to make it fit under the ceiling.
i have made it all work, but i should of thought it out better before instead of after.
you should decide on the brand of equipment and know the dimensions before finallizing any plans:beer:

Exact reason I'm asking... Dont want to regret after its already up. 14' sidewalls with my width and your configuration could get me 25' peak height. more than enough to put a lift against the wall and shoot some hoops in the center bay. I will have to see how this increases cost.
 

camarotoolman

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mm is right, here you need a engineer stamped drawing to get a permit, so you might as well get it from the truss co. They can also recommend a good framing crew to build it.
 
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93L#3008

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mm is right, here you need a engineer stamped drawing to get a permit, so you might as well get it from the truss co. They can also recommend a good framing crew to build it.

No Permit needed where I live... :thumbup: And after all the covenants and restrictions others have had to comply to I couldnt be happier.:beer:
 

DekeT

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No Permit needed where I live... :thumbup: And after all the covenants and restrictions others have had to comply to I couldnt be happier.:beer:

You can't figure out on your own what roof slopes will do for what you want. You go to the interwebs of all places to seek advice, and now you don't think you need wisdom of a professional to continue because you don't have permitting in your location. You must have slept in a Holiday Inn last nite.
 
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93L#3008

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Pencil and graph paper?

You can't figure out on your own what roof slopes will do for what you want. You go to the interwebs of all places to seek advice, and now you don't think you need wisdom of a professional to continue because you don't have permitting in your location. You must have slept in a Holiday Inn last nite.

Amazing how many people just look for arguments in a forum....
Good rule of thumb to live by: If you cant provide any useful input dont comment...
 
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93L#3008

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According to the truss company, He doesnt recommend going 5/12 scissor truss for a 44' span. Can be done but it may put too much pressure on the walls. 16' sidewalls with 2.5/12 pitch inside is my best bet for now.
 

buening

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And where exactly might that be?
Looking beyond- I'd be concerned with wind loads, snow loads, and load paths. 44' is a pretty long open span.

Most likely rural location.

Definitely consider wind/snow loads. The bad thing about scissor trusses is the lateral loads it places on the walls, something that standard trusses minimize. A standard truss also has a lower chord which helps stiffen the top of the walls during high wind events, something a scissor truss helps at a much lesser scale. Will this building be using steel columns in the walls similar to a Morton Building or is this stick built? If stick built, be aware of the forces involved on the walls from scissor trusses and build accordingly. What are the building dimensions?
 
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93L#3008

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Most likely rural location.

Definitely consider wind/snow loads. The bad thing about scissor trusses is the lateral loads it places on the walls, something that standard trusses minimize. A standard truss also has a lower chord which helps stiffen the top of the walls during high wind events, something a scissor truss helps at a much lesser scale. Will this building be using steel columns in the walls similar to a Morton Building or is this stick built? If stick built, be aware of the forces involved on the walls from scissor trusses and build accordingly. What are the building dimensions?

Thanks for the input and yes they didnt want to go more than 2.5/12 on inside pitch.
Yes, Indiana rural location. Not concerned with wind (tornado yes) as we sit down in a valley. This is stick built and 44x48x16 are the dimensions. Yes, that's 16' wall height.
 

DekeT

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Amazing how many people just look for arguments in a forum....
Good rule of thumb to live by: If you cant provide any useful input dont comment...

Yeah, I deserved that I did not mean to be so harsh. I took it that you were going to underbuild because of no permitting. I see that is not the case.
 

jack stand

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To figure roof/truss heights. The pitch (6/12, 4/12) etc. is, 6/12 = 6" rise for every 12" run. 4/12 4" rise etc. So a 44' wide bldg (the truss) will be 22' (1/2 of 44") X what ever pitch. (6/12 = 6" x 22' = 132" or 11') Now this will be close depending on the const of the truss heel. it should get you within 6-8". Put some serious diagonal bracing in your walls (if your not sheathing in plywood or osb) and allow for tons of bracing in your truss system. I built a 38x78x16'.5 wall height and it takes a ton of bracing (at least 50pc. 2x4x26) to get the "wiggle" out of it.
 
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93L#3008

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To figure roof/truss heights. The pitch (6/12, 4/12) etc. is, 6/12 = 6" rise for every 12" run. 4/12 4" rise etc. So a 44' wide bldg (the truss) will be 22' (1/2 of 44") X what ever pitch. (6/12 = 6" x 22' = 132" or 11') Now this will be close depending on the const of the truss heel. it should get you within 6-8". Put some serious diagonal bracing in your walls (if your not sheathing in plywood or osb) and allow for tons of bracing in your truss system. It a 38x78x16'.5 wall height and it takes a ton of bracing (at least 50pc. 2x4x26) to get the "wiggle" out of it.

Thanks! I will be sure to ask about the extra bracing to stiffen it up... They have built tons of buildings and I'm assuming the extra cost includes additional lumber for bracing. I was trying to get by with a shorter wall height and larger pitch on the inside since it will be sitting close to my house. Mainly for looks.
 
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93L#3008

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Yeah, I deserved that I did not mean to be so harsh. I took it that you were going to underbuild because of no permitting. I see that is not the case.

No hard feelings.... I want this to last and would not do anything that the builder didnt recommend.
 

jack stand

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Thanks! I will be sure to ask about the extra bracing to stiffen it up... They have built tons of buildings and I'm assuming the extra cost includes additional lumber for bracing. I was trying to get by with a shorter wall height and larger pitch on the inside since it will be sitting close to my house. Mainly for looks.

It is easy to dwarf your house, and I think that you are right to consider this. How much importance do you put on the basket ball? If you will be heating it, you might consider radiant floor. My last bldg. was also 16' ceiling and a "modine" type ceiling hung unit, and all the warm air rose up and I had to run my ceiling fans to push it back down and the draft was uncomfortable at the lower tems that I kept the shop at, not to mention that even at nascar pit crew speed with the garage doors, all the heat was lost. This is not the same with the floor heat.
 
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