24 x 25 Garage remodel.

[d0nk3y]

Hi!

I'm Scot

I'm remodeling my garage - more out of dire need than anything else; Between my lot layout and my HOA, I cannot build another garage. Fortunately for me, the garage is fairly big for a "modern" home at 24 x 25 (well, 24'8") but it presents many unique challenges:

1) It has living space above it and is surrounded by earth on two sides, earth/house on the other (so I really can't bump a wall over or back 12' because it's actually foundation.

2) I apologize for the mess - seems I never took pictures of my empty garage before I filled it with stuff - but the next thing is the support posts for the support beam. One of them is really in the way - there are two, and each post is 8' from either wall. The one near the overhead doors gets in the way. A lot.

3) The living space above it thing again. I need to design and build a suitable ventilation system; even with both doors open, the house ends up smelling like whatever I'm working on. Not just that though - in the colder months it's durned near impossible to do any fabrication with the doors shut.

4) Everything is finished in drywall and has a 8'8" ceiling - except in one bay that has the HVAC running through it. Lift-limited already. Would like a MaxJax - and quite bummed I missed the group buy here.

5) In an effort to alleviate some of my cramped quarters, I built an 8'x8' platform 4' high and placed it in the far back corner of the garage. I figured I'd store the long-term stuff up top and the things I use more often below. You can see it here (sorta) in the background (yes- there are motorcycles stored up there).

So - I need to draw up plans to show what I have in mind because I'm not the greatest at describing stuff sometimes, but on to the next post with some current photos of work beginning.

 

[edgewater]

I have recently built a storage building with what will be living space above it. It is a good idea to fire/gas proof it.

On the ceiling, you can put in a vapor barrier, then the first layer of drywall. The first layer get all seams caulked to seal it. Then a second layer of drywall with conventional finishing. This will give you more fume resistance and a little more time in the event of a fire.

Good luck with your tight space.....from another city dweller.

 

[FltEngCPO]

Sorry I'm not much help but I like your truck. I had a 1960 long fleetbedversion with a strait 6 that I was working on. Good luck with the remodel!

 

[smithred67]

Looks good and I see potential. I want to know more about the truck. I will be starting a restoration on my dads 65 GMC SBSS. What are your plans with that truck? I plan to put a 5.3 ltr engine with OD trans and disc brakes on the front. It will be a budget build since my dad cannot afford to do it and my brother and I will pay for it.

Good luck with the garage remodel.

 

[d0nk3y]

That post has to go.

I have a steel beam that runs above those posts, along with the site plans for the house. Back calculating from the specifications, I was able to match the numbers the engineer used for the support post footings and verified my current (mathematical) beam deflection to get initial L/ numbers to get an idea of resulting stiffness. L/360 is "safe", but for my length of beam, that also represents almost an inch of "sag"! That doesn't sound like it would be good for anything above that doesn't like to move, i.e walls/roof/drywall/etc.

If I completely remove the offending beam, my calculations result in acceptable shear/bending/stiffness - however - the loading on the end support increases 2x. The load on the remaining post also increases 2x. I think the foundation could support the increase, but the footing at the remaining pole will experience close to its design loading limit.
I did many more calculations and decided to move the post 6' closer to the garage doors. That keeps a manageable load on the unmoved post and I could design and build a footer for the new beam support post load.

I marked off the area, a friend showed up with a concrete saw and the work began!

3200 lb of concrete:

Filled in and a "special form" in place for the new post:

Location of new post on beam:

Now, to wait a few weeks while the concrete strengthens.

 

[d0nk3y]

Looks good and I see potential. I want to know more about the truck. I will be starting a restoration on my dads 65 GMC SBSS. What are your plans with that truck? I plan to put a 5.3 ltr engine with OD trans and disc brakes on the front. It will be a budget build since my dad cannot afford to do it and my brother and I will pay for it.

Good luck with the garage remodel.

You'll learn not to ask me about my trucks!

My 66 started out like this:

...went through a bunch of work like this...

...and now looks like this.

Along the way, it picked up a new frame (original was bent), Ford 8.8" IRS from a T-Bird supercoupe, T5 transmission, "warm" 350 SBC, 1960 grille, 2002 caddy seats, new wiring harness, rear fuel tank, 2010 Camaro "Heritage" steel wheels, 4-wheel disc brakes, rack & pinion steering, 89" long bed from a 1955 C10 (shorter than the later 97" beds and no cutout for a spare), cedar bed (lighter and rot-resistant)... blah blah blah.

Picked up a 64 for my wife and recycled the original 283 from the 66. Soon as I get that post moved, the 64 gets a modern dual-circuit braking system, new brakes and all new wear parts in the front suspension / steering. (and a fuel tank in the back, like my 66)

You *ever* have any questions on your truck, or upgrades, be sure to give me a holler. I've researched the heck outta these things and I know lots and lots about GM powertrains. I can offer suggestions and wiring/computer help for the 5.3/OD trans install.

 

[d0nk3y]

Found "before" shots!

 

[Bib Overalls]

A lot of work for such a seemingly small improvement. But the reality is that something as simple as a post in the wrong place can be intensely frustrating. If you don't do something then you lose enthusiasm for you projects. I'll bet beating out that concrete felt so good.

 

[d0nk3y]

Yessir - you know it! Along with moving a few tons of cement this weekend, I cut and split / stacked plenty of firewood as well; I'm danged sore today.

 

[Falcon67]

Hmmm - what you lack in space, I'm thinking you make up for some in natural climate control. How much space is behind the garage/living space? I'd be thinking about digging a hole back there, building a concrete "bunker" with a patio or just dirt over slab, then cutting a properly reinforced doorway through the back wall of the garage into the work area. Lotsa work, but when done it's valuable work space and nothing showing above ground for the HOA to get on about. Even just 12' deep x 24 makes for a real nice work area.

 

[smithred67]

You *ever* have any questions on your truck, or upgrades, be sure to give me a holler. I've researched the heck outta these things and I know lots and lots about GM powertrains. I can offer suggestions and wiring/computer help for the 5.3/OD trans install.[/QUOTE]

I would like to know if you did front disc brakes and how? Also what about the rearend, is it original?

 

[d0nk3y]

I would like to know if you did front disc brakes and how? Also what about the rearend, is it original?

Sent you a lengthy pm.

 

[d0nk3y]

Hmmm - what you lack in space, I'm thinking you make up for some in natural climate control. How much space is behind the garage/living space? I'd be thinking about digging a hole back there, building a concrete "bunker" with a patio or just dirt over slab, then cutting a properly reinforced doorway through the back wall of the garage into the work area. Lotsa work, but when done it's valuable work space and nothing showing above ground for the HOA to get on about. Even just 12' deep x 24 makes for a real nice work area.

Yeah - thought about doing that, but for the amount of work necessary, I moved on to other solutions. One thing I may do is bump the front out 12' and make the "roof" into a deck / extended front porch.

I need to get my crayolas out and get to drawing something up.

 

[LoRollinLS]

I know how you feel with a cramped garage. At least you got that post out of the way, that will free up alot of space. They just get in the way waaaay 2 much. The thing to remember in a garage like yours is organization, organization, organization. Because it will help so much and free up so much floor space. Nice trucks man, I have a 66 stepside w/ 283 also! They are great trucks, glad to see another fan of them on here.

 

[Falcon67]

Yeah - thought about doing that, but for the amount of work necessary, I moved on to other solutions. One thing I may do is bump the front out 12' and make the "roof" into a deck / extended front porch.

I need to get my crayolas out and get to drawing something up.

That'd work too. Idle mind and a backhoe are dangerous things.

 

[american3.14guy]

Hey, nice trucks! I've got a 66 Chevy 3/4 ton that was grandpa's. Getting ready to do many of the things that you did (or are planning to do). Was the fuel tank relocation very hard? Thought about a conversion from suburban myself. What about exhaust? My pickup has the factory HD coil spring rearend, so it is the same as 1/2 ton with trailing arms, etc. Only offered 64-66. Disc brake spindles will work off of the 73-87 as long as I replace the ball joints to the corresponding ball joints. Gathered that stuff already.
I noticed on your wife's truck the dealer's name appears on the rear bumper. Is it stamped or welded in (the bead makes the letters)? It's kind of cool.
Keep up the good work on taking advantage of every inch of floor space.
Subscribed to your thread!

 

[d0nk3y]

Ahhhh....

Much better!

 

[RaysnCayne]

Sorry for the hijack.

...Ford 8.8" IRS, 2010 Camaro "Heritage" steel wheels, 4-wheel disc brakes, rack & pinion steering...

I'm a steelie guys so I've been trying to figure out a good/cheap way to make those wheels work on my 68 Biscayne ever since I saw them back in 2010. So tell me, how'd you make them fit a Ford rear and what brand of hubs are you using up front? You just have everything re-drilled? Did you do it to the 4.75" bolt pattern or the metric pattern for the new Camaros? (I've heard it's only 2-3mm difference.)

Oh, and cool garage project, btw!

 

[d0nk3y]

Sorry for the hijack.



I'm a steelie guys so I've been trying to figure out a good/cheap way to make those wheels work on my 68 Biscayne ever since I saw them back in 2010. So tell me, how'd you make them fit a Ford rear and what brand of hubs are you using up front? You just have everything re-drilled? Did you do it to the 4.75" bolt pattern or the metric pattern for the new Camaros? (I've heard it's only 2-3mm difference.)

Oh, and cool garage project, btw!

LOL, I don't mind.

First thing to keep in mind is that all new vehicle wheels have serious negative offset. That is like "negative dish" of sorts and puts the wheel face closer to the outer bead of the wheel.
Here's a good shot of the negative offset of these wheels:

Depending on what you end up doing, it can work to your advantage. With the popular / common disc brake swap on the C10's, the track width increases 0.75" per side, or 1.5" overall. The IRS swap increased my WMS to WMS distance from 62" to 64.5" - and what I was looking at was trying to get back to some semblance of the wheel / tire combo filling the wheelwells.

Now - to answer your question directly - I am using wheel spacers / bolt pattern adapters to fit the metric pattern of the Camaro wheels. This solved many problems at once:

• I was able to use different thicknesses between the F&R to even up the look (1.5" up front, 1" out back)
• I went from 5x5.5" and 5x4.25" to the Camaro pattern w/o redrilling. Redrilling is arguably the best way, but with adapters, should you ever need to replace a brake disc, axle or hub - you just go buy it off the shelf
• The Camaro lugs were bigger (14mm?) than ones I had on my vehicle - so I used the bigger studs in the adapters to match

I'm very happy with how everything turned out - but remember - on your car, you'll need to address the 39mm (1.53") negative offset. This would also lend itself to a good set of adapters to get your bolt pattern correct put the wheels where you want them. IMHO, your car would look badass with these wheels and a 2.5" spacer / adapter.

One last thing - between buying the wheels / tires used having them shipped and buying the adapters, I was in for about $800 total. Figuring that I was looking at wheels in the $200/ea range with no tires, I think this mod is a no-brainer.

 

[Red Leader]

Nice trucks and nice garage! You've got a really fun looking space there! You've already been doing more serious work than me (concrete stuff).


Keep it up!

 

[d0nk3y]

Thank you!

Just remember - concrete work takes more brawn than brains - and I'm in short supply of both! (Not poking fun at anyone that works in concrete, mind you. ) I've been avoiding looking at your garage, just because of my OCD, but now I may have to.

 

[d0nk3y]

Took 1/2 day off to goof around in the garage...

 

[Viriiguy]

Awesome garage and hobby!!

 

[d0nk3y]

Garage "progress" has been on hold; rebuilding a motorcycle for a friend and playing in a bobcat. I wanted to have a retaining wall built on one side of my driveway and learned just how expensive things can get! Depending on materials, it was $18-$32 / sq. ft. and that didn't include any special backfill or drainage system.

My neighbor was mentioning he had some boulders for sale and my local rental joint had a Bobcat available. $1900 total, and I'm getting to arrange my landscaping how I want it. The previous owner had left a lot of rotting wood piled up on the property - and I got that moved to a more remote / unusable part of my land.

 

[d0nk3y]

Almost time to start work again.