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thoughts on new water heater?

PT Doc

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I'd like to replace my ao smith 50g has water heater before it fails. Its 10.5 years old. Seems like the ge 50g 12 year warranty at hd Is pretty crappy. Any specific brand recommendations? Seems like a magnesium anode are key to have. I have n never taken the anode out of the ao Smith that I have. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks
 
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MrMark

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Bradford White seems to be a well regarded brand by plumbers. It may be because that is what plumbing supply like Ferguson's carries. Who knows. Anyway a Bradford White 40 gallon is about $420 from Ferguson. That's what I would do.
 

pattenp

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What ever water heater you get you should inspect the anode rod at least every three years and replace it (anode rod) if less than 50% of it remains.
 

71flh

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Got any more info on the anode rod? A web search turns up essentially nothing on water heater anode rod.
 

5001craig

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I would consider tankless. Installed my first one in my last home (Bosch natural gas whole house model ~ $950) and at the end of my first year, our gas budget monthly payment was reduced by an amount per month that equated to $1000 per yeat. That was replacing an old water heater. Keep in mind too that when you have unlimited hot water, you use more. Gas prices were going up too.

Since then, I have installed two electric units in my home I live in now (not hooked-up to gas). One took three 40 amp double poles and I can't remember right now what the Rheem RTE 13 took but the electric ones take a lot of power. :eyecrazy:

Tankless hot water heaters do not get the build-up on the inside as when no water is flowing, the heat shuts-off. Tank-type heaters on the other hand, are only as efficient as advertised on day one.
 

38Chevy454

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x2 on just go to Fergeson's or similar. Some plumbing supply will only sell to licensed contractors, but Fergeson will sell to general public. Had to replace my water heater recently, and it is a 50 gal propane fired model. I had looked at Lowes and Home Depot, the same water heater at Furgeson's was not only in stock, but about $200 less cost.
 
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K'ledgeBldr

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Any thoughts are appreciated.

Since the tank is coming out and the system is off and open-
Change the shut-off valve to a 1/4 turn ball type and add an expansion tank- if you don't already have those features.
The expansion tank is a pretty standard code item today.
I've had this discussion with my plumber in the past- today, all manufacturers build pretty much the same thing regardless of warranty (it's just more money). And if it's gas, the valve is made by only two companies here in the US. The best money is buying the most efficient.
 

rlitman

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A local pluming supply should have replacement anodes. If there is a ceiling anywhere near the tank, you can get a "flexible" anode. It's chunks of magnesium, crimped onto a stainless steel cable, kind of like linked sausages. Just a few bucks more than a straight anode (maybe $50).

The anodes with a dot on the cap are magnesium. Without the dot, are probably aluminum. Magnesium is better at protecting the tank, but doesn't last as long.

A better heater may even have two anodes (so they last twice as long).
 

pattenp

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One thing in that "This Old House" video is he doesn't stress not to put Teflon tape fully on the threads of the anode rod. The anode rod is saving the tank from electrolysis and to put Teflon tape fully on the threads can insulate the rod from the tank. You should leave a few lower threads exposed for the rod to be in contact with the tank.
 

rlitman

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One thing in that "This Old House" video is he doesn't stress not to put Teflon tape fully on the threads of the anode rod. The anode rod is saving the tank from electrolysis and to put Teflon tape fully on the threads can insulate the rod from the tank. You should leave a few lower threads exposed for the rod to be in contact with the tank.

Good point! Actually, any time you use teflon tape, you should leave the one bottom thread exposed anyway. With anodes, I leave 2 or 3.
 
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PT Doc

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Great info about the tape. ao Smith and bw seen to have great reputations. I'm going to go with a Smith since dimensions are within 1/4”. Have to look into the expansion tank thing.
 

Toymeister

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I would consider tankless. Installed my first one in my last home (Bosch natural gas whole house model ~ $950) Tankless hot water heaters do not get the build-up on the inside as when no water is flowing, the heat shuts-off. Tank-type heaters on the other hand, are only as efficient as advertised on day one.

Well I looked into Bosch gas tankless and they have VERY mixed reviews out of 30 reviews at Amazon 11 are one star (lowest) 12 are 5 stars. I would avoid them on this alone Source: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-2700ES-...dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1 espeially when higher rated models are availble.

Second: Tankless DO get build up and require annual maintenance (depends upon minerals in your water), Source
http://www.ehow.com/way_5676144_instructions-tankless-water-heater-maintenance.html. It is fairly simple. you issolate the heater from your water supply (done by valves) then pump vinagar through it via a small pump for one hour.

Third: Tankless heaters DO NOT save you a great deal of money. Don't misinterpret this, if you have a nasty heater that is not clean and full of scale you will save, but then again you would save with a new tank style heater also. Here, rather than a link, you need to think of the logic, the vast majority of the energy consumed by the water heater is used to heat up the water, not in keeping it hot. Its just like boiling water on the stove, high to bring it to a boil, simmer to keep it at 212. That is not a complex concept. The actual gas savings from eliminating 'standby' costs are about 5 - 10%, not nearly enough to pay for the heater, if professionally installed in its lifespan of 20 years. Consumer Reports wrote a lengthy article about this and I have confirmed it firsthand myself

Having typed all of this I replaced a tank style heater with tankless because it replaced TWO heaters with one, I did it myself, I did not use a Bosch model, and I have a teenager who takes incredibly long showers. So it can make sense to install one, however be prepared to have a cold sandwich hot/cold/hot water shower on occasion unless you install a very small (3 - 6 gallon) electric water heater after the tankless model. If you are interested in the why this is needed, post here and I'll elaborate.
 
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