action fab
Well-known member
My shop as a corrugated metal roof... What is the best way to vent the stove pipe out without leaks? All of the solutions at lowes were for a shingle or flat roof... the corrugation will not allow the flashing to seal...
stove pipe... Corrugated roof?
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fabrk8r
Well-known member
Is this corrugated metal?
If you have a piece of the corrugated roof material you can make a flashing and screw and caulk it to your roof. You could use the metal thimble from a flashing for a shingle roof or have a thimble made at a sheet metal shop and have it soldered to your piece of corrugated.
If you have a piece of the corrugated roof material you can make a flashing and screw and caulk it to your roof. You could use the metal thimble from a flashing for a shingle roof or have a thimble made at a sheet metal shop and have it soldered to your piece of corrugated.
IDASHO
Well-known member
Dont bother.
They make the proper flashing for exactly what he needs. And any good hardware store will carry them or be able to get them
We carry SELKIRK products at my work. The flange comes flat, but it form fits and seals to any corrugation.
http://www.doitbest.com/Flashing-Selkirk+Corporation-model-200275-doitbest-sku-462172.dib
They make the proper flashing for exactly what he needs. And any good hardware store will carry them or be able to get them
We carry SELKIRK products at my work. The flange comes flat, but it form fits and seals to any corrugation.
http://www.doitbest.com/Flashing-Selkirk+Corporation-model-200275-doitbest-sku-462172.dib
X2 on the above - used this style on my tin roof for my stove chimney - bought what's called masterflash, it looks pretty much identical to what is above. Put silicone underneath the malleable metal and then used the roof screws to ensure it was sealed in the valleys. Worked for me, no leaks. Ensure you install a storm collar over top of the polymer where it meets the chimney. This will keep the water from entering between the polymer and the chimney.
Good luck
Good luck
rlitman
Well-known member
That looks like the way to go, but the first thing that came to my mind was the guy who was installing soda bottles as skylights:
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
Through the wall? Not much chance of leaks that way.
Charles
Charles
5lima30
Well-known member
+1 on going through the wall, preferably just below the eave and then straight up.
trbomax
Well-known member
Install it diagonally,so that a corner points to to the peak. This prevents water from laying against the top edge. Didnt see where you are located,buy in snow country, splitters are a very good idea too.
edit) hot springs,guess you dont need splitters !
edit) hot springs,guess you dont need splitters !
http://www.doitbest.com/Flashing-Selkirk+Corporation-model-200275-doitbest-sku-462172.dib
Does anyone have any good pictures or directions how to install this kit? I think my stove pipe may exceed 500 as it goes through the roof, Maybe? It's 11 feet from the outlet of the wood stove to the roof. Thank for the help!
Does anyone have any good pictures or directions how to install this kit? I think my stove pipe may exceed 500 as it goes through the roof, Maybe? It's 11 feet from the outlet of the wood stove to the roof. Thank for the help!
6768rogues
Banned
I retired as a facility manager and we had buildings with metal roofs and stacks going through. True, there are manufactured boots that are designed for the purpose. They all leak after a while and you will have to accept that it is a constant maintenance issue to keep them water tight.
In one of my personal buildings I vented through the sidewall and up past the roof. In another, I used a heater with a fan forced exhaust so it could go through the sidewall and terminate horizontally.
In one of my personal buildings I vented through the sidewall and up past the roof. In another, I used a heater with a fan forced exhaust so it could go through the sidewall and terminate horizontally.
Justanoldguy
Well-known member
X2 on the diagonal placement.
These flashings are common here in NZ where most roofs are galvanized or colorsteel corrugated iron.
These flashings are common here in NZ where most roofs are galvanized or colorsteel corrugated iron.
burleymike
Well-known member
You really should use a piece of class A pipe to go through the roof unless you can maintain a 3' clearance to anything combustible. If you were to have a chimney fire single wall pipe closer than 3' to any framing could cause the framing to burn. I would also cover as much of the stove pipe as possible with something like Roxul or ceramic fiber to insulate it. You will have a better draft, hotter fire, and cleaner chimney.
Justanoldguy
Well-known member
3 ft seems like a huge gap??
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
M&G Duravent manual says 18" for single wall 5"-8" diameter.
http://www.duravent.com/docs/product/L150_Apr2011.pdf
10"-24" manual says the same thing.
http://www.duravent.com/docs/product/dt_L151_Mar2011.pdf
In any case, the single wall pipes are HOT. Do yourself a favor and install a proper chimney system, using single wall to the ceiling or wall thimble and then double wall from there, with proper thimble, framing, etc. Using single wall maintains the heat inside the chimney and thus a better draft and cleaner burn and cleaner pipes. With wood the pipes cooling excessively will cause buildup in them.
Charles
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
http://www.doitbest.com/Flashing-Selkirk+Corporation-model-200275-doitbest-sku-462172.dib
Does anyone have any good pictures or directions how to install this kit? I think my stove pipe may exceed 500 as it goes through the roof, Maybe? It's 11 feet from the outlet of the wood stove to the roof. Thank for the help!
Frame up for a wall thimble and go out thru the wall, then up the side. Use a roof brace.
See the manuals in the above post for ideas. Its a lot of work doing it right.
Here are pics of my class A installation for a waste oil heater. This is the same system you need for wood, except you DO NOT use a barometric damper, rather you use a manual damper.
rburke65
Well-known member
Charles (in GA).....I am about to break ground for a shop and it will have metal sides and roof. Where would one purchase the wall thimble type system for the metal siding? Thanks.
Garage Flooring
ALLIANCE MEMBER
DuraVent has a dealer locator on their website http://www.duravent.com/DealerSearch.aspx
Keep in mind the more pipe you keep inside the envelope of the building the better your unit will perform.
Another great resource for information on fireplaces and stoves are NFI Certified installers and retailers.
Keep in mind the more pipe you keep inside the envelope of the building the better your unit will perform.
Another great resource for information on fireplaces and stoves are NFI Certified installers and retailers.
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
Go to my Heater install thread and scroll down to post number 36. You will see pics and a description of what I did. You use a standard wall thimble like you use on a stud wall or a block wall, and then have to fabricate all the other pieces.
Charles
mrobins297aaa
Well-known member
Charles that's a hell of a nice job on that chimney.
Here's another way of doing it that we use to do.
you mount the standard roof flashing (either flat or pitched depending on your roof) right on top of the ribs just screw it down. The next step is to install a flat sheet of metal on top of the ribs, it goes under the ridge angle (at the top of the roof) and on top of the flashing. you make it the same width as the flashing, then on the lower half of the flashing you just use some light gauge angle the height of the ribs and screw it down and caulk it.
it works real well and the closer you are to the ridge the better it looks. But it won't leak.
what ever you do make sure you use the proper double wall pipe and flashing for what ever fuel you are burning.
Here's another way of doing it that we use to do.
you mount the standard roof flashing (either flat or pitched depending on your roof) right on top of the ribs just screw it down. The next step is to install a flat sheet of metal on top of the ribs, it goes under the ridge angle (at the top of the roof) and on top of the flashing. you make it the same width as the flashing, then on the lower half of the flashing you just use some light gauge angle the height of the ribs and screw it down and caulk it.
it works real well and the closer you are to the ridge the better it looks. But it won't leak.
what ever you do make sure you use the proper double wall pipe and flashing for what ever fuel you are burning.
Garage Flooring
ALLIANCE MEMBER
hmmm. Maybe I missed something... @rburke65 are you looking at going through the siding or the roof?
In either case how wide of an area do you between the ridges?
mrobins297aaa is correct. Use the right pipe! Typically their is a transition from single wall or double wall pipe to an ASHT or triple wall pipe the minute you penetrate a wall or ceiling.
I'm sitting here laughing because I'm sure you are wondering why a garage flooring guy is commenting on a fireplace. I had to be out of the industry for a couple of years because of a non compete and sold and serviced Gas, Wood and Pellet stoves and fireplaces here in Colorado.
In either case how wide of an area do you between the ridges?
mrobins297aaa is correct. Use the right pipe! Typically their is a transition from single wall or double wall pipe to an ASHT or triple wall pipe the minute you penetrate a wall or ceiling.
I'm sitting here laughing because I'm sure you are wondering why a garage flooring guy is commenting on a fireplace. I had to be out of the industry for a couple of years because of a non compete and sold and serviced Gas, Wood and Pellet stoves and fireplaces here in Colorado.
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Highbeam
Well-known member
Since there are professionals and licenses being flashed, I feel we all should remember that installation of a solid fuel burning appliance (wood stove) in a garage is illegal per the fire code. A garage is any building you can drive a car into.
Not saying it doesn't happen but beware that you are taking on the liability of a fire in teh shop. As such, be for dang darn sure that it is safe.
Not saying it doesn't happen but beware that you are taking on the liability of a fire in teh shop. As such, be for dang darn sure that it is safe.
Jbullfrog
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Yeah, that's why I went with a propane hanging furnace. It is vented through the wall.
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Garage Flooring
ALLIANCE MEMBER
ABSOLUTELY! Hearth appliances are not allowed in garages. You are definitely correct. Interestingly enough in Mesa County they do draw a distinction between a detached shop and a garage.
Of course when we start talking about codes, and NFPA 211 it all depends on what has been adopted and what the inspector says.
Of course when we start talking about codes, and NFPA 211 it all depends on what has been adopted and what the inspector says.
Shop Specialties
Well-known member
The best way for draft and cleaning is to go straight up. For stovepipe I recommend Metalbestos all fuel pipe. Roof support package - 4 foot piece all fuel on top - dripless adapter to go from the all fuel pipe to single wall - Dektite rubber boot. For code you need to have 18" clearance from combustibles to the single wall and 2" for the Metalbestos. I have been doing waste oil heater/boiler sales and service for 21 years with no roof leaks.