The VISES of Garage Journal

[mitusa]

I have a Reed 203...swivel base...only problem is the base has been cracked and welded by the po. The weld is cracking now. Anyone know where I can find a good used or new base. I've sent an email to Viseparts and haven't received a reply yet.

 

[demographic]

Just got this Record SQ6. It is supposed to be a quick release model. The quick release was not working so I took it apart. Not sure what I am missing and what the previous owners repair was for.

Couldn't find much info on this particular vise.

Sometimes if the vice action is a bit stiff the buttress thread allows the quick release mechanism to slip when attempting to open the vice.

Maybe?

 

[DannyD]

Forgot to post this pic. I imagine the counter-clockwise turn would open this up. But I must be missing the part that closes it to grab the buttress thread

 

[ZRX61]

FFS, do we really need to see the photos FOUR times on one page? Learn how to edit when ya quote someone

 

[Low Friction]

@DannyD
Record SQ6

Might contact "Knight Tool Supplies". They look to have all things Record. They have a parts break down page but nothing I can see like your vise. Look here:

http://www.knighton-tools.co.uk/acatalog/Record_vice_spares.html

 

[jusridin]

Day one of my Athol restore.... any tips at this point would be handy, like dont use grinder with wire brush naked, not even partly naked! Not even if your home alone, its just a bad idea
now that most of the paint is removed I am seeing issues. The swivel base has been cracked, welded, and then cracked. (I can fix this )
the one side with lettering saying Atho is covered in weld.... (might be able to fix this)
the jaws are smooth in spots.... not sure what to do there they are forged in place (skinny disk on the grinder and simulate the grooves? (with clothes)
On a positive though I found the original color under all the blue. Dark grey, but I am sure you all knew that
any tips would be greatly appreciated

 

[Outlawmws]

Day one of my Athol restore.... any tips at this point would be handy, like dont use grinder with wire brush naked, not even partly naked! Not even if your home alone, its just a bad idea
now that most of the paint is removed I am seeing issues. The swivel base has been cracked, welded, and then cracked. (I can fix this )
the one side with lettering saying Atho is covered in weld.... (might be able to fix this)
the jaws are smooth in spots.... not sure what to do there they are forged in place (skinny disk on the grinder and simulate the grooves? (with clothes)
On a positive though I found the original color under all the blue. Dark grey, but I am sure you all knew that
any tips would be greatly appreciated

Idahoans sure do some strange stuff!

Easiest way to clean it is Electrolysis, no hassles in nooks and crannies, and a LOT less manual labor... You can even do it while naked...

 

[jusridin]

That could have saved me a few hours and some undue explanations to the wife. I have seen you mention Electrolysis before is it practical and can I aquire the means to do so cheaply? I assume if its easy everyone would be doin it

 

[jusridin]

I you tubed it, very cool, I can sit and have a few beers while I watch the work being done. that will help a ton on the next two vises.
Thanks outlaw!

 

[Outlawmws]

That could have saved me a few hours and some undue explanations to the wife. I have seen you mention Electrolysis before is it practical and can I aquire the means to do so cheaply? I assume if its easy everyone would be doin it

Material needed:

Plastic bucket/container

A battery charger (preferably an older "dumb" one with a real transformer)

Spa chem PH + (spa/pool chemical) or washing soda (Arm and Hammer?)

An Iron/steel (NOT SS!) for an anode (rebar works great)

Some iron wire to connect to the submerged parts, (small parts I often suspend in the bucket from the wire)

and set it up like this:

I often use a 5 gallon plastic bucket, and fill it near full with water 4-to 4-1/2 gal?) not critical...

throw in about a handful of the PH+ or Washing soda.

Set up some anodes, (you can use wire to connect them together)

Make sure the part does not/will not touch the anodes, and connect the charger leads. turn it on and look for bubbles to start forming on the part.

if they are, go take a naked nap with the wife...

4-8 hours later check on it. it will likely have the water surface covered with a nasty red scum/foam, you can scrape/lift this off if desired.

As the water evaporates over days/weeks, of use (or non use) just ad water you don't need to add the PH+ it does not evaporate...


tons of info available on line, just Google "electrolysis rust.

Last comment anything in the "soup" needs to be iron or common steel; no plating, chrome, copper (wire) and definitely not SS!

The left over residue is an iron rich soup and is safe enough to add to your garden for iron/alkaline loving plants...

 

[bigcaddy]

That could have saved me a few hours and some undue explanations to the wife. I have seen you mention Electrolysis before is it practical and can I aquire the means to do so cheaply? I assume if its easy everyone would be doin it

If you have access to a large storage tub or anything thing that can submerge the vise parts under water, you are off to a good start.

The rest is stuff around the household: baking soda/washing soda, copper wire, car charger, c-clamps and a sacrificial anode/s.

The electrolysis works best by proximity of vise parts to anodes, so if you were to have 2/4/6 anodes, it would work even faster.

My tub has 4 pieces of steel flat stock that are 3/4 of the way submerged when the tub is full. I've clamped them to the side of the tub with c-clamps. Wire those together but don't let them touch the wire in the next step.

Place your vise parts in the tub and wire them together with some copper electrical wire, preferably a heavy gauge, i use one 4/0 strand of a damaged 220 welding lead to tie everything together. I then wrap that wire around a piece of steel that lays across the tub and creates a bridge.

Fill your tub with water and use 1 tablespoon of soda per gallon of water. You can pre-measure this in a 5 gallon bucket.

Now you can attach your car charger. I always get the leads mixed up but i think its positive to the anodes and the ground to the vise parts. I bet another member will correct me in just a second.

If everything goes as planned, it should start fizzing and bubbling in just a little while. try to keep it open and outside if you plan to leave it for an extended period of time.

Usually 24-48 hours will do the trick.

 

[bigcaddy]

dammit outlaw, that took me forever to type.

 

[ElectroLight]

I think standard threads are more common on that style of pipe vise, as the finer treads give more pressure for the relatively short handles they have. Also, it's more likely that a particular size pipe would be used repetitively so less reason to need a faster thread like the Acme.

Keep in mind you can also make up a specialized set of jaws if you have some particular setup that needs regular clamping. These things are dead simple, and there is nothing hard about the jaw insert design.

Hmmm, a set of crimping dies comes to mind

 

[jusridin]

That was a great description, I watched a 10 minute video on that just now and yours was more clear. I am sure most GJ members will appreciate that.
will it take off leftover paint?

 

[bigcaddy]

That was a great description, I watched a 10 minute video on that just now and yours was more clear. I am sure most GJ members will appreciate that.
will it take off leftover paint?

It will take off paint and loosen some of the really stuck on stuff but it won't remove everything on the first try.

It helps to take the parts out between soaks and give them a scrubbing with a 3M pad and a wire brush. That will get lots of loose paint off and let you know what it still stuck on.

If the remaining paint/rust absolutely will not budge, hit it will a 4" grinder and a wire wheel. I've done that to most of mine and will finish it nicely.

 

[Outlawmws]

That was a great description, I watched a 10 minute video on that just now and yours was more clear. I am sure most GJ members will appreciate that.
will it take off leftover paint?

It's pretty good at removing paint but not always 100%

The paint it doesn't remove is any paint that has "the perfect bond" to the metal. fortunately most old painted vises (or much of anything else) never has this...

 

[Davefr]

Before:

After:

Details:
Wilton 9450 G Sale find. Date code is 12/31/60. Original color looked to be light gray. I used RO Hammered Gray over SEM self etching primer.

 

[Nightshift]

That's a beauty Dave. Nice clean up! For a finishing touch ... put some o-rings or rubber washers on the handle ends. Cheers, Bill

 

[pfbz]

Wilton 9450 G Sale find. Date code is 12/31/60. Original color looked to be light gray. I used RO Hammered Gray over SEM self etching primer.

Nice vise, nice restoration, and nice vise stand! I love the look of the Wilton 9450's, have one as well. A little bit later than yours (1970), just before they transitioned to the newer style. Not quite a clean looking as yours with all the extra part number markings!

Here's a detail of the rubber bumpers Bill was talking about. Sorry for the lousy picture.

 

[jusridin]

Great looking vises, I really like the o-ring idea

 

[Outlawmws]

Beautiful job!

 

[demoman]

I bought this Hollands 18 this weekend and it was sitting on this RR stand. I have seen only two of these stands before. Bl00 sent me this old advertisment from 1925 for the stand. Last spring, I found a reed on this same stand but the price was $1000. I thought it was just too much for a non swivel reed. Maybe the stand would have made it worth it. I have posted a pic of the reed sitting on a pallet. I see the same setup posted here on GJ by catalyze on 4/4/2011 http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1448439&postcount=5

The old ad states the stand was made to fit between the stalls in a RR roundhouse. The vise weighs 260# and the stand weighs 500#. The casting on the stand is rough but it is very unususl. This vise supposedly came out of the AT&SF shop years ago. I have another hollands 18 that bolts down with 4 bolts and weighs 280#. I would guess this to be an older version from the 20's? I hope to paint it up and put it in my shop.

 

[blue dog]

/\ awesome. How did you get it out of the truck ????

 

[bigcaddy]

Demoman...That thing is a beast and so is the stand. Too bad about that large cut on the side of the jaw tower. It looks like its in really good shape for its age and being at a railway yard.

Still a killer find and you definitely ****. Those big hogs are hard to find.

 

[demoman]

The guy loaded it with a skid loader. The vise was unbolted from the base. It was raining so we unloaded it by hand istead using one of our loaders. The vise was no problem until we grabbed the base. When it came out of the tailgate there was three of us on it. Naturally I somehow got the heavy end. I almost blew a gasket trying not to drop it. Lets just say there are no more kids in my future!! . I did not really weigh it but I am positive it is over 500. I will do that in the morning as it is close to the scale.
Brad

 

[demoman]

The big hogs are hard to find. This one is only the second big vise(8" jaw) I have found in Kansas. The rest have all been shipped in.

 

[Low Friction]

That stand is really buttress like. Big vises can really show their teeth when mounted properly. Is it cast iron?

 

[demoman]

Demoman...That thing is a beast and so is the stand. Too bad about that large cut on the side of the jaw tower. It looks like its in really good shape for its age and being at a railway yard.

Still a killer find and you definitely ****. Those big hogs are hard to find.

The grinding cut is deep but can be welded. Wouldn't you like to find that guy and give him a "caning" for grindig my vise. Remember in 94' the kid that was given a well deserved caning for spray painting cars in Singapore and then Pres Clinton intervened and got him fewer strikes. I bet he didn't do that again!

 

[zoomieport]

The big hogs are hard to find. This one is only the second big vise(8" jaw) I have found in Kansas. The rest have all been shipped in.

How thick are those Mounting (Elephant) Ears?

 

[demoman]

I will have to measure the ears in the morning.

 

[bigcaddy]

The grinding cut is deep but can be welded. Wouldn't you like to find that guy and give him a "caning" for grindig my vise. Remember in 94' the kid that was given a well deserved caning for spray painting cars in Singapore and then Pres Clinton intervened and got him fewer strikes. I bet he didn't do that again!

I'd have to agree with you on that one. Its a tool but you don't have to beat it so badly.

 

[demoman]

That stand is really buttress like. Big vises can really show there teeth mounted properly. Is it cast iron?

The stand is cast steel I would say and it weighed 640# or 900# with the vise. NOt bad. The ears on the vise were 1" thick.
There was some ancient grease on the bottom and the original color was a dark green on the base.

 

[Vvmvbb]

New vises too?
Really like my new Yost 7WW-DI wood working vise:

...and my 5" Ridgid:

 

[Canadian Cowboy]

Here is a Chase Parker Co. model #870 it is not mine personally it is for sale locally the seller is asking $50.00 for it.




CC

 

[bigcaddy]

Here is a Chase Parker Co. model #870 it is not mine personally it is for sale locally the seller is asking $50.00 for it.

That is a great price as long as its in good condition.

 

[bigcaddy]

Here are some of my newest purchases. The pair of Athols have been sitting around for a few weeks now and i just got time to strip them naked and give then some new life. One is a 4 1/2" and the other is 4". There is quite a difference in the amount of metal between a 1/2" of jaw width.

I thinking ill go with a very dark gray, their original color, and white lettering.

The Columbian is something my dad found and decided to clean up. He's since replaced it with a smaller one so this one is for sale. If anybody is interested, let me know. The top of the jaw towers have been sanded smooth and he repaired a small chunk taken out of the side of the jaw tower. Other then those 2 things, its in excellent condition and is a brute of a vise.

 

[Canadian Cowboy]

Just bought this original Record #4 tonight seller wanted 50 I gave him 40 good shape jaws are mint no slop not used much mild rust,I think it was a good price.









CC

 

[Canadian Cowboy]

Here are 2 Yost 34C for sale the seller is asking for 600.00 each,Is that a good price?







CC

 

[PCO6]

Just bought this original Record #4 tonight seller wanted 50 I gave him 40 good shape jaws are mint no slop not used much mild rust,I think it was a good price.

I purchased a Record No.4 new in the 70's and still have it. They are a good vice and you got a good deal at that price.

 

[Canadian Cowboy]

I purchased a Record No.4 new in the 70's and still have it. They are a good vice and you got a good deal at that price.

Do you happen to remember how much you paid for it back then?

CC