installing a sink in garage -- ideas? advice?

[MoogieBoogie]

Hi all,

My first post on this forum.

I have a two-car attached garage that I would like to add a sink to. I am planning on installing a stainless steel, extra large/deep sink that is often used for kitchens. Any ideas on how to go about doing this? I already have the plumbing there since apparently the washer/dryer used to be in the garage. Would it be weird to just buy some cheap base cabinets from Home Depot / Lowes for this?

I am very new to this so I would appreciate any advice/guidance. Thank you.
-Brian.

 

[PoorOwner]

I teed off my hot and cold water (soldered copper pipes) from the washer and the drain teed back in as well.

you can get a utility sink (made of plastic) from lowes.. but if you want to do solid sink they are usually smaller.. and cost more.

 

[MoogieBoogie]

Thanks for the reply!

I think the reason why I don't want to get a standard utility sink is because it would look out of place with everything else. The place where I plan to add the sink is in the middle of a wall about 10 feet in length. I want to get something more integrated, which is why I was thinking of base cabinets usually used in kitchens. However, I haven't seen anyone that has done this which makes me curious as to whether or not this is a bad idea.

Thanks,
-Brian.

 

[PoorOwner]

Whatever style of sink you want to put the installation should be the same.. you can tee off the pipes and do another set of shut off valve and framing kit same as the washer, and go from there. You can also add a sink and faucet of your choice to any storage cabinets you end up with. I have seen a few pictures here with full counter top and built in sink.

 

[beanz2]

Hi, from a forum lurker ... finally a topic I can contribute. I used a wall mount utility sink and a commercial kitchen faucet. The picture during construction is attached below The sink is from Florestone and the faucet is from Pasco. In the attached picture the pre-rinse faucet was not yet installed, but it now looks like this.

The absence of legs gives me the option to store stuff underneath. The only thing I wish I had added was a foot pedal for the faucet.

The electric plug next to it is on a GFCI circuit.

Dave

 

[anojones]

I've been considering the same thing, when I framed in my utility room in my barn, I messed up and didn't leave enough room for a freestanding laundry/utility tub. I'd like a deep sink, but only have 18" of depth and can't find a small utility sink and was thinking of putting a bar sink in an inexpensive box store cabinet. Anybody seen a small inexpensive laundry or utility tub (ideally free standing)?

 

[kbs2244]

All the restaurant or commercial sinks I have seen are stand alone units with their own legs.
Health codes do not like hidden spaces, so everything hangs out in the open.
They rarely hard connect to the drains also. Most health codes are written in such a way the they put a floor drain under the sink and the sink will just dump into it.

 

[logical]

Swanstone makes inexpensive drop-in sinks that are about as big and deep as a laundry/utility sink.

 

[kbs2244]

If you really want the cabinet look with a deep sink, I would think about one of the plastic slop sinks with some home made legs inside the cabinet to lift it up to the level of the cabinet top.
Then you could cut the hole in the top just a little smaller then the sink to get the “Under Counter” look and function.
Make some close measurements on drain height. Compare where it is in the wall to where it will be on the sink.

 

[kdk71mgb]

I added a wall mount laundry/utility sink to my garage about 20 years ago. Don't know what I'd do without it. Don't settle for one too small just for aesthetics.... I think you regret it over and over.

 

[1320stang]

I used a plastic laundry tub, but built a cabinet around it. I don't have pics though.

 

[kwright]

Hi, from a forum lurker ... finally a topic I can contribute. I used a wall mount utility sink and a commercial kitchen faucet. The picture during construction is attached below The sink is from Florestone and the faucet is from Pasco. In the attached picture the pre-rinse faucet was not yet installed, but it now looks like this.

The absence of legs gives me the option to store stuff underneath. The only thing I wish I had added was a foot pedal for the faucet.

The electric plug next to it is on a GFCI circuit.

Dave

I'm considering doing something similar to what you did in your photo. How did you frame under/behind the sink?

 

[beanz2]

I'm considering doing something similar to what you did in your photo. How did you frame under/behind the sink?

The house was done by our contractor, but if I recall correctly there was nothing special other than plumbing and drain lines behind it.

Dave

 

[MikeN]

I did one of the $99 (roughly) kits from HD/Lowes but build my own base instead of using their flimsy legs.

 

[jdburton3]

to answer one of your original questions, no i wouldn't think it would look out of place to have a stock cabinet for a kitchen or bathroom to mount your stainless sink in your garage. i do like the double basin hanging on the wall with the commercial faucet/sprayer setup. i'm sure there is a reason, but the one in the photo seems to be mounted a little low to me. if a stock cabinet is too low make a base out of 1x4 or 1x6 to raise it up. then face it with something "cool" like diamond plate, expanded metal, or stainless to cover the seam.

 

[e-tek]

Hi, from a forum lurker ... finally a topic I can contribute. I used a wall mount utility sink and a commercial kitchen faucet. The picture during construction is attached below The sink is from Florestone and the faucet is from Pasco. In the attached picture the pre-rinse faucet was not yet installed, but it now looks like this.

The absence of legs gives me the option to store stuff underneath. The only thing I wish I had added was a foot pedal for the faucet.

The electric plug next to it is on a GFCI circuit.

Dave

Hey Beans - C'mon, first post you could contribute to?? I'm sure you have many more things to add for our enlightment - Just get in there!!
That faucet is very cool! What do you use this set up for? AND, If no-one has said it yet - Welcome aboard!

 

[beanz2]

Thanks, e-tek! I'll slowly add here and there, but the level of expertise on this board scares me

The sink is meant for general washing and cleaning up after a day in the yard or the garage. The wife got sick of cleaning grease and mud off the kitchen sink. Plus some day it will make a good bathtub and shower for a pooch.

Dave

 

[rburke65]

MoogieBoogie; Nothing weird about this. The folks at HD or Lowes or any hardware / plumbing store would be happy to step you through this. Or pick up a book (library or purchase) on home/plumbing repairs and installation. This is fairly easy to do for the rookie. What's the worst that can happen? It's going to hold water or it's going to leak! It's not life or death, and YOU CAN do this! Go for it!

 

[sizzler90]

I see nothing wrong with it. But then again I have a small singal stainless sink on a wood frame with a 5 gallon bucket underneath it. Mines just temporary until I build another garage.

 

[Vermaraj]

How do you protect a garage sink from freezing in the winter? I am not sure if it actually gets below freezing during normal use. But if you are away for a say a week I could see the temperature dropping enough to freeze the pipes.

 

[kbs2244]

Good point Vermaraj.
In an attached garage the sink would be on the wall between the garage and house. With the supply pipes in the walls they will stay warm enough. (Assuming you don't turn the heat off in the house.)
Buy you would have to put a lamp or heater of some kind in the cabinet to keep the "P" trap from freezing and splitting.

 

[kwb210]

Good point Vermaraj.
In an attached garage the sink would be on the wall between the garage and house. With the supply pipes in the walls they will stay warm enough. (Assuming you don't turn the heat off in the house.)
Buy you would have to put a lamp or heater of some kind in the cabinet to keep the "P" trap from freezing and splitting.

Just pour in some RV Anti-freeze in the drain and it will push out the water. My shop normally does not get below 40-45 but I still poout a splash in if I'm not going out there for a while, cheap insurance.

 

[rburke65]

My sink is in an attached garage, the door faces North, gets the north wind in N E Ohio, But if you keep the door down I don't have a problem with it freezing. But with it up, in the colder months it will.

 

[mikeyr]

I am about to build up in my garage and a sink will be a requirement for me.

The addition will be about 40-45ft. from the house laundry room where I plan on taking the supply line from. My question is what to do about hot water ? do I tee-off and drag 45feet of hot water to the garage or get a small 4-5 gallon hot water heater in the garage or get a instant-hot in the garage ? I am thinking no hot water due to the run and having to run the water for who knows how long to get hot water and get a heater of some type. Any suggestions ?

 

[hewl35]

]When I built my garage I roughed in a sewer line for a half bath. My permit did not cover new plumbing so we poured the floor over it. Before pouring concrete for the floor I put a 4 x 4 inch steel plate over the end of the sewer line so I could use my next door neighbors utility locater to find it.

 

[kbs2244]

mikeyr:
Get a small, cheap, electric heater. Double insulate it.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

The addition will be about 40-45ft. from the house laundry room where I plan on taking the supply line from. My question is what to do about hot water ? do I tee-off and drag 45feet of hot water to the garage or get a small 4-5 gallon hot water heater in the garage or get a instant-hot in the garage ? I am thinking no hot water due to the run and having to run the water for who knows how long to get hot water and get a heater of some type. Any suggestions ?

The small 2 to 6 gallon water heaters are so small you won't like them. I have a 2.5 gal under a double laundry sink on a 2x4 frame in my shop. Turn on the water, start scrubbing up and the hot water is gone. Try filling a bucket with hot water for washing a car in the winter, not enough. Instant heaters are pricey and demand lots of electricity = heavy wiring. I eventually plan on mounting a 20 gal heater on the wall above the sink and doing away with the small 2.5 gal heater.

I had a regular laundry sink faucet, one of the cheap ones, but it wasn't high enough, nor long enough reach, so I found an American standard single lever on clearance at Home Depot. Bright white finish (matches the sink) and long high spout. A real improvement over the old cheapie.

Charles

 

[Bevis]

I waited until the inspector came to inspect prior to pouring my floor, then I roughed in a sewer line for a future sink and urinal.

 

[kwb210]

The small 2 to 6 gallon water heaters are so small you won't like them. I have a 2.5 gal under a double laundry sink on a 2x4 frame in my shop. Turn on the water, start scrubbing up and the hot water is gone. Try filling a bucket with hot water for washing a car in the winter, not enough. Instant heaters are pricey and demand lots of electricity = heavy wiring. I eventually plan on mounting a 20 gal heater on the wall above the sink and doing away with the small 2.5 gal heater.

I had a regular laundry sink faucet, one of the cheap ones, but it wasn't high enough, nor long enough reach, so I found an American standard single lever on clearance at Home Depot. Bright white finish (matches the sink) and long high spout. A real improvement over the old cheapie.

Charles

I decided to go with a 12 gallon hot water tank. The tank currently sits on treated blocks of wood, not sure is that is good or not. Maybe no big deal. The pressure relief valve is attached to the sink drain system via a black rubber washing machine supply hose, couldn't figure out where else to run it. I wired in a on/off switch because I won't be using it everytime I'm in the garage. The switch has a red pilot light that will alert me to turn it off when I leave for any length of time. Because of the cost of copper I used plastic pipes and stainless flex lines. The sink I got from a resturant that was upgrading to a 3 bowl unit. I am really stoked about the stainless sink! THe next item I have to decide on is the back-splash. I'm thinking a piece of plywood with sheet metal screwed to it. That way it not only protects the wall/drywall but I will be able to attach things like a towel rack and a rack for hanging a washed part on to dry.