I understand that the sill plate will be attached to the poured concrete floor using bolts that will protrude up through the sill plate. My question is this: how does the bottom board of the wall assembly attach to the sill plate, given that the bolts are sticking up on top of the sill plate?
Attaching assembled wall to sill plate
- Thread starter Stephen P
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CheapCharlie
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- Mar 29, 2012
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I believe you'd put your sill plate down, build and sheet your wall (enough sheeting to make it strong enough to stand), then stand it up on the sill plate. At least that's how i would do it.
1948
Well-known member
ok if im understanding this correctly, you want to recess the bolt into the 2x4, and then cut off the access that comes above it, then bolt your wall ontop of that. if its a garage you dont need to do that you can mark and drill the holes, and just set your wall up onto the bolts.
cut the bolts are down to the nut. then where the nut is on the sill plate use a spade bit the countersink the bolt hole. this will make the nut and bolt flush to sill and so the sole plate will sit on it. then frame your walls. when you go to put up the wall just nail the sole plate right to the sill.
btw its much easier to sheath once the all the walls are up
btw its much easier to sheath once the all the walls are up
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Not too sure what you are asking, but if you have bolts protruding, you have to drill your bottom plate to match the bolt pattern. Normally what you do is put your bottom plate against the bolts then transfer the pattern. If you already have one sill plate down, and you are putting a wall up with another plate on top of it, then you will have to toenail, use shorter nails, or screw it down. If you use a nail that goes straight in without hitting the concrete below, then I would use some Simpson plates to tie the wall to the sill plate for added security. Normally you only have one sill plate, then the studs on top of that.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Wow, three postings all at the same time 4:12 
ZRX61
Well-known member
There's a jig thing for laying out where the holes go. I've seen pics of one posted on here before.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
If you haven't started the walls yet, you will have one 2x for your bottom plate. The studs go on to that, then you will have (2) 2x's for your top plates. The bottom plate will have to be marked and drilled first. You then check it for fit, pull it back off, then assemble the wall. After assembling the wall you need to stand it up and lift it over the hold down bolts.
Milton Shaw
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I am fairly sure that the sill plate also has to be pressure treated. A lot of places also recommend a sill plate gasket to keep water/bugs out. Check your location to be sure what the codes require for a sill plate to be treated or not. Older houses had a medal shield between the block and the sill plate to keep termites out, now the pressure treated wood is what is usually used.
Gary S
Well-known member
You got it. The sill plate is the bottom plate of my walls.
Layout your wall studs so they don't interfere with the bolts, if the concrete guys were any good there shouldn't be any conflicts. Take the bottom wall plate and drill some oversize holes, BFHoles is the technical term, build and sheath the wall completely.
I would cut all the bolts to say 2 inches above the concrete with a cutting blade on a grinder. Test run a nut on each bolt. Line up the wall with the bolts and tip it into place.
Use a foam sill gasket set towards the inside of the wall by a bit and run a bead of the best caulking you can afford along the front edge of the wall.
Then tie the wall down using oversized washers to cover the BFHoles. You can drive the washer right into the wood.
I would use PWF lumber for the bottom plate even if the code in your area didn't call for it. If you use the PWF and don't need the sill gasket then still use lots of caulking under the bottom plate.
I would cut all the bolts to say 2 inches above the concrete with a cutting blade on a grinder. Test run a nut on each bolt. Line up the wall with the bolts and tip it into place.
Use a foam sill gasket set towards the inside of the wall by a bit and run a bead of the best caulking you can afford along the front edge of the wall.
Then tie the wall down using oversized washers to cover the BFHoles. You can drive the washer right into the wood.
I would use PWF lumber for the bottom plate even if the code in your area didn't call for it. If you use the PWF and don't need the sill gasket then still use lots of caulking under the bottom plate.
Falcon67
Well-known member
Use hot dipped galvanized bolts, nuts and washers - get them at Lowes or HD. HD sells them by each and one includes the nut and washer. Use a pressure treated sill. Per UBC, the bolts need to be within 12" of a corner and no more than 4' apart. Lay all this - plate locations, stud spacing and bolt locations out on paper before you pour and have the bolts ready at the pour. When the forms are set, you mark the forms where the bolts go. You let the concrete set a little, then set your bolts. Use a piece of 2x4 and set them down so that between 1 and 2" stick up above the 2x4 and they are more or less in the middle of where the plate will lay.
When you build the walls, you lay each plate run next to the bolts and mark the plate, then drill. If you were quick and accurate in setting the bolts, it's an easy drill. The bolts are 1/2", use at least a 5/8 or 3/4 bit. Lay your top plate next to the bottom plate, mark your studs, doors, windows, etc, then build the wall. Use hot dipped #16 nails in the bottom plate. Put down caulk and/ or sill padding, set the wall on the bolts, brace, put on the hot dipped washers and nuts, tighten up.
Bolts:
Plates laid out:
When you build the walls, you lay each plate run next to the bolts and mark the plate, then drill. If you were quick and accurate in setting the bolts, it's an easy drill. The bolts are 1/2", use at least a 5/8 or 3/4 bit. Lay your top plate next to the bottom plate, mark your studs, doors, windows, etc, then build the wall. Use hot dipped #16 nails in the bottom plate. Put down caulk and/ or sill padding, set the wall on the bolts, brace, put on the hot dipped washers and nuts, tighten up.
Bolts:
Plates laid out:
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trbomax
Well-known member
The sill plate should always be pt lumber.The sill "gasket" , more commonly referred to as "sill seal" acts as a thermal break and prevents moisture fron wicking up into the wall. I prefer a double lower sill as it keeps the drywall up off the floor by at least an inch while still leaveing plenty to nail trim too.
Justanoldguy
Well-known member
cut the bolts are down to the nut. then
Huh??