To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

The restoration of a 1925 Snap-on "Fold out" Super Service Set

chad s

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 3, 2006
Messages
2,483
Location
Baltimore, MD
Im restoring a 1925 Snap-on tool set that arrived in terrible shape. Being that these are very rare, and this one was in extremely poor shape, it deserves a full restoration.

I dont have a catalog picture of this 1925 set, but here is the 1928 set, which is similar, and the tools included are identical.

page4.jpg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
C

chad s

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 3, 2006
Messages
2,483
Location
Baltimore, MD
Step 1. Remove all of the tool hangers from the left side. This side is too rusted through to be saved. With the tool hangers/shelves removed (2 of 3 were brazed back in a long time ago), the back can now be cut out.
fold_out_r1.jpg
 

billymade

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 2, 2008
Messages
7,461
Location
New Mexico
Man, that is rough! Since, I have worked in a body shop, I do know that pretty much ANYTHING can be rebuilt and restored if you have the: money, time, skill and patience to do it! To watch someone who can rework metal through heat shrinking and dolly/hammer work is truly a amazing thing; I used to be blown away how quickly the "journey men" at my shop could pull out a incredible repair/transformation on a vehicle that I thought was junk yard worthy! Am looking forward to the restoration process! Who said anything is to "far gone" to restore?!?! :bowdown:
 
Last edited:
OP
C

chad s

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 3, 2006
Messages
2,483
Location
Baltimore, MD
Here is what it looks like now. The right side has a new back, the perimeter is original, and hammered close to original shape, with minor imperfections. There was a missing section of the perimeter on the lower left part, so that part had to be cut, bent, and welded in. Next the weld has to be cleaned up on the inside of the box, since the weld penetration shows through a bit. I'll do this very carefully with a carbide buyy on a die grinder.

The left hand side was very beat up. like someone used a baseball bat. I decided to save this side, as it has no bad rust, and too many tool hangers to remove and re-weld to a new back. I started off with a doube ended hammber, and used a dead blow hammer against the hammer to provide the blows, as I couldnt swing the hammer in many areas due to the tool hangers. The hammer could only help smooth out lumps, and prepare the damaged metal for shrinking. You can see all of the spots where I had to shrink. A no crown pannel is incredibly hard to straighten, especialy when is 22 ga steel. Im amazed they made these so thin. I got is 70% better, and then focused on truing up the perimeter.

I know it will never be perfect. Its 83 years old, it should look perfect. The right side back will almost look too good, but with all of the tools in it, you wont see that the right side back is perfectly flat.

From here, I will straighten out the shelf unit and hangers that I just had a friend bead blast, and spot weld them back in. From there I will bead blast the entire unit, and have the paint shop match the original olive green color off of my dealer box where the original paint is in good shape.

As of tonight, but still more work to do:
fold_out_r2.jpg
 

wilbilt

Banned
Joined
Aug 17, 2006
Messages
5,602
Location
NorCal
What's with the green dots?

Reflectors applied by the PO in the hope he wouldn't run it over again in the dark?


Nice job, looks great so far!
 
OP
C

chad s

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 3, 2006
Messages
2,483
Location
Baltimore, MD
spot welds where he is shrinking the metal.

Correct, these were done the old fashioned way with a torch. A stud gun welder works well too, but I dont have one.

With the exception of straightening the tool hangers themselves out, I have taken this (left) side about as far as I plan to. This is a very hard piece to shrink, as each time you shrink, you actually twist the whole outer frame of the side, as it changes the tension of the back piece of metal. So besides just fixing the stretched areas, you have to keep balanced tension. Its a balancing act. Its really hard to tell in the picture due to it being under florescent light, and the fact that its all different colors now, but it is a lot better, and is very acceptable.

It now looks like a box that has 80 years of respectful use, not 80 years with a baseball bat!
 

wrenchr

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 29, 2007
Messages
11,603
Location
Michigan
Hey Chad,
Would tacking the frame to a metal base stop the flexing while you are welding the back on?
 
OP
C

chad s

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 3, 2006
Messages
2,483
Location
Baltimore, MD
Hey Chad,
Would tacking the frame to a metal base stop the flexing while you are welding the back on?
Well, the problem here wasnt welding on the new back, it was deformation when shrinking on the left side. I welded the right side back on very slowly, and tacked it all together first, and did about 1/2" of stich welds at a time, skipping around to different sides a lot. No mater what, as a weld cools, metal will shrink. Contrary to what some think, going slowly does not stop shrinking. Less heat helps, but shrinkage of some form is unnavoidable. On a **** weld (which wasnt the case here), you can hammer the weld, to reverse the shrink, but thats a topic for a totally different subject (hammer welding 22 gauge steel, especialy with a mig, would not really work well)


But to answer your question, unfortunately the answer is no. If only sheet metal could be so agreeable!

When you shrink, you are drawing the mollecules closer together, and stretching, pushing them further apart. Over shrinking creates inward pull, and stretching creates outward pressure (often referred to as "oil canning").

If you were to tack the metal to a piece of heavier metal to support it, but metal was still stretched or over shrunk, when seperated from the backing metal, the sheet metal will spring into whatever position is caused by the shrunk/stretched metal takes it. The ONLY way to fix things is to relieve the tension by shrinking or stretching (whichever is needed in the given situation) to counteract it.
 

JMURiz

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 6, 2005
Messages
1,483
Location
NoVA
That is one beat up box. I look forward to seeing the progress though, looks like a VERY cool piece to have once it is restored.

Best of luck.
 

KenS

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 21, 2007
Messages
726
Chad,

This is certainly an interesting restoration and I look forward to seeing the finished product.

One thought: Wouldn't this be an ideal candidate for rust removal by electrolysis, rather than bead blasting?

Also, since the original catalog illustration was in black and white, do you know if the metal was painted a particular color? Any traces of original paint on the box? None is evident in your photos.

Finally, do you have the original tools that go with the set? If so, what is their condition? Any photos available?

Just thinking out loud. Keep us posted.

Ken
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

dxdexter

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 1, 2006
Messages
1,923
Is that the one you bought on eBay a few months ago? If so how will you restore the printing on the exterior?
 
OP
C

chad s

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 3, 2006
Messages
2,483
Location
Baltimore, MD
Chad,

This is certainly an interesting restoration and I look forward to seeing the finished product.

One thought: Wouldn't this be an ideal candidate for rust removal by electrolysis, rather than bead blasting?

Also, since the original catalog illustration was in black and white, do you know if the metal was painted a particular color? Any traces of original paint on the box? None is evident in your photos.

Finally, do you have the original tools that go with the set? If so, what is their condition? Any photos available?

Just thinking out loud. Keep us posted.

Ken

Ken,
I guess it could be cleaned by a way other than bead blasting, but bead blasting is quick, easy, and effetive, so thats the best way for me to clean it.

The original color was a shade of olive green, the color of all snap on boxes from 1920 until 1925-26. There was some original traces of paint on the socket shelf part, but very little. I have a 1925 Snap on hardware store dealer box/display that has a lot of the original green paint intact on the inside, which I will use to have my local paint jobber match, in order to paint the box.

The box came with about 3/4 of the original tools, some are damaged, but in my collection I have everything needed to complete this set, probably enough to fill two of them, so once its all complete, it will have the complete tool assortment .
 
OP
C

chad s

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 3, 2006
Messages
2,483
Location
Baltimore, MD
Is that the one you bought on eBay a few months ago? If so how will you restore the printing on the exterior?

No, this box had no original printing on it, none came on it from the factory.

The one from ebay a few months back was the hardware store dealer box. That box was in great condition considering its age, and about 5 times larger than this box, as it was designed to hold the stock of a dealer, it would have had 15 of each socket size in the bottom drawers when full.
 
OP
C

chad s

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 3, 2006
Messages
2,483
Location
Baltimore, MD
Here is as of right now. I have the middle "shelf" unit tacked in, untill I had the tools mounted to see if all was OK. A you can see, the short 5/8 drive extension hits the top shelf of sockets, so that whole assembly needs to be moved down about 1/2". The opper hanger is clamped in with Cleco's for the mock up.

I still need to fabricate the ratchet hanger, for the left side, which was missing.

Next step is some "bodywork" to fix some areas that cant be hammered out, and then I'll prime it.

fold_out_r3.jpg
 

billymade

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 2, 2008
Messages
7,461
Location
New Mexico
Looks like you've done allot of hand work; if you know what you are doing (looks like you know!) its amazing how you can transform a piece of "junk" into something beautiful!:)
 

wrenchr

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 29, 2007
Messages
11,603
Location
Michigan
Metal working is a art form, and Chad you are performing some art on that old wall cabinet!!! I'm very impressed!!!!!!!!!
 
OP
C

chad s

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 3, 2006
Messages
2,483
Location
Baltimore, MD
Metal working is a art form, and Chad you are performing some art on that old wall cabinet!!! I'm very impressed!!!!!!!!!

Thanks!

Tomorrow should be the most exciting point yet. I have some primer on the right hand socket shelf.

The ratchet hanger is fabricated and welded on.

I should have it all in one color (grey primer) tomorrow afternoon, and I'll have the paint custom mixed for it next week.
 

bchee

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 20, 2007
Messages
6,148
Location
Texas
looks unbelievable
Now we have to wait until next week to see it painted.
 

Kevin54

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
Now that is just pretty damn cool:thumbup: Will it have the logo on front and if so, how do you plan to do that? Paint or decal? I do know that at sign shops you can get practically any type of decal made with use of computer design, or you could get a stencil made at one of the shops and spray the logo on.
 
OP
C

chad s

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 3, 2006
Messages
2,483
Location
Baltimore, MD
Now that is just pretty damn cool:thumbup: Will it have the logo on front and if so, how do you plan to do that? Paint or decal? I do know that at sign shops you can get practically any type of decal made with use of computer design, or you could get a stencil made at one of the shops and spray the logo on.

There was no logo on the front of these. Some of them had a logo on the inside, on the left side, but the only other one of these I have a photo of is repainted in primer, awaiting the green paint, as its owner got t with many layers of (re)paint on it, and started a restoration.
 

Elroy

Banned
Joined
Oct 15, 2005
Messages
3,467
Location
kentucky
Elroy is fully aware that what he is about to suggest could be construed as sacrilegious but have you considered using the original box simply as a pattern and having a new one formed up. The manufacturing expertise from 1923 can't be that sophisticated. If you took it to a good sheet metal shop your box would be "new" and indistinguishable from a mint original.

I know, then it wouldn't be original

Just a thought.
 
Last edited:
OP
C

chad s

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 3, 2006
Messages
2,483
Location
Baltimore, MD
Well, here she is, in primer! I still have some areas on the right hand side inner lip I want to do a little "bodywork" on to fill in the pitted metal, but she's just about there. The left side is far from perfect, it has some battle scars, but it should have a few, its over 80 years old! I cant wait to get it into paint!
fold_out_r4.jpg

fold_out_r5.jpg

fold_out_r6.jpg

fold_out_r7.jpg
 

Uncle Buck

Banned
Joined
Mar 7, 2005
Messages
9,120
Location
Kansas
Should make for a very impressive and valuable display once it has been completed, I think the tools hanging within will be sufficient distraction to take away from any deficiencies in the finish that might normally draw ones eye!
 

billymade

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 2, 2008
Messages
7,461
Location
New Mexico
Maybe its not the right thing to do on "antique" tools (many believe original patina is the way to go) but if everything was lightly bead blasted, to create as not perfect but nice sheen; with the new paint, wow, that would look nice! So, how did Snap-On finish their tools back then; was it more of a "machine" finish or were they actually chromed but not quite the high gloss/sheen of today? I was at a vintage plomb/proto website and one guy had his vintage tools re-chromed and they looked amazing! Check 'em out here! http://plombtools.com/NOS.aspx
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom