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Which compressor for home shop, 230v not an option?

BOONEY7750

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I need a compressor for my home shop. I want a 230v but there is no way to get the power. I figured either of two below will allow me to use most impacts and general air tools, but some cut offs will max me out. I like the 100% duty cycle of the Ingersoll, but I like the high SCFM of the Quincy, but it is only 50% duty cycle. I am not familiar with the Quincy brand at all, but I am fine with Ingersoll as a brand. I know for a few hundred more I could get a 60g 230v, but I am in a old house with a small and full panel. Thanks.

Ingersoll
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200375221_200375221

Quincy
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200481743_200481743
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200483164_200483164
 
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pipsters

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Garage mate scored pretty low:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=138871

For the $$ the Husky and Craftsman smoked it. I own the 25 gallon Craftsman, so far haven't found anything that can touch it, although the Quincy looks like it would. It is rated for 100% duty cycle but the manual does mention 50% is preferred. If going for the Quincy I would get the 26 gal one, as you run air tools off stored air in a 120v compressor vs. what the pump produces in a 240v compressor.
 

Ed_EOD

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Just make sure you get an oiled belt driven compressor. Husky has a good one, especially if you can find one a few years old.
 
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BOONEY7750

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PDXGEARHEAD.....Not within my electrical ability for sure, I live a strong union city with crazy codes and inspections. I have to use contractors from the city's list if I plan on passing inspection and I am not sure I could get one of them to take it on or if I would pass the inspection after the work was complete. I have had people tell me to basically run a new small box off a existing circuit such as the dryer and that was referred to it as jumper box or piggy back box, if there is a way to take power form a existing circuit safely I am all ears, but I am way to far away from the dryer to for example try plugging the compressor into my dryer outlet.
 

waggie

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1. get the 110volt compressor and be unhappy with them. and later you rewire your garage/house, and buy a bigger 220v compressor anyway. Now you have a spare 110volt compressor.

2. re-do the electricity and buy 220 compressor.

3. why bother with an air compressor at all? get electric tools. You'll be running one tool at a time, your old house and full panel should be ok with that. The new generation of electric tools are quite good.
 

Skin

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Unless you plan on doing something like blasting or painting 230V is not required for home use. You can get by just fine with 115V 1-2HP units.
 
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BOONEY7750

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I have tons of electric tools and I am quite happy with them, I do how ever enjoy working on cars and 4x4 trucks, the air compressor is my preferred method. Personal preference. I want to be able to sand, media blast, and spray, I do not think there is much to debate in terms of 230v vs electric on the tools or compared to a 115v compressor. However a 115v I am marginally happy with that will run impacts and hammers is better than nothing. I am well aware I should be rewiring and going 230, but its hard to justify putting in a whole new 200a panel for a house I am going to be moving out of in about 3 years.
 

PT Doc

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Just my opinion, the ir will not run at 100%. Cfm quoted seems like a legitimate number. No way that will be 75-80dba. It will likely be perceived to be at least twice as loud.
Air outlets for all are different. The first Quincy is the largest at 1/2". Could be why the cfm is rated a lot higher on the Quincy compared to the ir.
Without looking into these deeper I would go with the first Quincy. There have have cheaper model 60g quincy compressors that look identical to oter brands so the question is who makes the cheaper ones, is it Quincy for the other brands or someone else and Quincy slap their name on it.
 

pipsters

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Pretty sure its against code to run anotger 220 from your dryer line, might want to research that first.
 

Gary S

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The Quincy compressors seem to have higher cfm. Cfm is what matters. I'd get one of them. But, don't expect a cutoff wheel to work with a 7cfm compressor very well. Most cutoff wheels that I've looked at are listed at around 4cfm, but that is a no-load rating. Under load, they will easily need 2-3x that amount of air.
 
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BOONEY7750

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I understand 230v is just two 115v, I just wanted clarification about using the dryer circuit. I looked into the piggy backing and that is not an option. Codes here are nuts. If I want to rent out or sell or even change my occupancy permit status for my next child I will be inspected. Anything with a motor has to have its own circuit. washer, dishwasher, fridge, my convection oven, garbage disposal, well you guys get the point on my 100a box I will already have to disconnect the disposal from a the dishwasher circuit to pass inspection. Piggy backing will not fly. I looked into replacing my service some more and it is doable except for my meter as a radio and gps unit that sends a down line alert to the power company if it is disconnected. If I go through the city and power company than I can do it but I will have to go through an inspection. The inspection issue is not that I will have shobby work done, I am not worried about the new work at all. I am worried about the 100 years of ****** work done everywhere else in the house and have heard the horror stories of people getting in trouble for other issues from a non related inspection. This area is nuts for that kinda of stuff. I live in Illinois that should give you guys a little understanding of how messed up stuff is.
 

RangerDaleXp

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Piggy backing will not fly.


At my old hose I did it for ten years without any problems off an A/C unit. I had an old 100 amp zinsco panel with no more room. Just do not use both at the same time or you will trip the breaker. disconnect it when you move....
 

Buckgnarly

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I understand 230v is just two 115v, I just wanted clarification about using the dryer circuit. I looked into the piggy backing and that is not an option. Codes here are nuts. If I want to rent out or sell or even change my occupancy permit status for my next child I will be inspected. Anything with a motor has to have its own circuit. washer, dishwasher, fridge, my convection oven, garbage disposal, well you guys get the point on my 100a box I will already have to disconnect the disposal from a the dishwasher circuit to pass inspection. Piggy backing will not fly. I looked into replacing my service some more and it is doable except for my meter as a radio and gps unit that sends a down line alert to the power company if it is disconnected. If I go through the city and power company than I can do it but I will have to go through an inspection. The inspection issue is not that I will have shobby work done, I am not worried about the new work at all. I am worried about the 100 years of ****** work done everywhere else in the house and have heard the horror stories of people getting in trouble for other issues from a non related inspection. This area is nuts for that kinda of stuff. I live in Illinois that should give you guys a little understanding of how messed up stuff is.

Am I understanding that you have to be inspected if you have more people (even a child!) move into your house?!?!:eyecrazy:
 

pipsters

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At my old hose I did it for ten years without any problems off an A/C unit. I had an old 100 amp zinsco panel with no more room. Just do not use both at the same time or you will trip the breaker. disconnect it when you move....

Just because you can do something doesn't make it legal.
 
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BOONEY7750

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For the people the piggy back and can not use both items, do you turn off compressor, drain water, then next time you use it just let fill itself up. Or just leave it pressurized and turn if off and then make sure when it kicks on the other item is not in use. Seems easy enough if the tank and system holds air tight and I use the dryer circuit. Not sure how that works with the AC kicking on automatically. RangerDaleXp I know I could piggy back and take it out, but I was hoping to "do it right" what ever that means, I guess this is the perfect example of over regulation causing a situation where people have to do exactly what the regulation was trying to stop.
 
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BOONEY7750

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Buckgnarly-Yes. I will get inspected when I move in, sell, rent out, or apply for an occupancy permit. If I have to change my occupancy permit for the addition of a child (we are expecting) and it has been more than a year the city can do an inspection before granting the occupancy. It is a sham, the city wants inspection fees and then they will "recommend" you use a selected contractor from a list. If you do it your self or use an outsider it is all hurdles and BS. Most people would not even mess with getting a new occupancy permit. I may wait it out on that. Only issue is if the cops are called for barking dogs or loud kids music or whatever a incorrect occupancy permit is another ticket on top.
 

RangerDaleXp

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For the people the piggy back and can not use both items, do you turn off compressor, drain water, then next time you use it just let fill itself up. Or just leave it pressurized and turn if off and then make sure when it kicks on the other item is not in use. Seems easy enough if the tank and system holds air tight and I use the dryer circuit. Not sure how that works with the AC kicking on automatically. RangerDaleXp I know I could piggy back and take it out, but I was hoping to "do it right" what ever that means, I guess this is the perfect example of over regulation causing a situation where people have to do exactly what the regulation was trying to stop.

keep the A/C turned off when you use the compressor. shut the pressure switch power switch off when using the A/C. you do not need to empty the air in the tank unless you want too. When it comes down to air compressors, almost everyone finds out when they have a 110 volt that it is just not enough and ends up getting a bigger 220 volt compressor latter on.....
 

shurik06_83

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u have 3 wires red black and white coming into ur panel hook up red and black to a totally new panel and run a barker and a wire to compressor from new panel if its kinda not ur deal call a few electricians and ask what it will cost to run 2 feed wires into a new panel and bolt it to the wall and run the cabel for the 230v outlet
 

RangerDaleXp

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u have 3 wires red black and white coming into ur panel hook up red and black to a totally new panel and run a barker and a wire to compressor from new panel if its kinda not ur deal call a few electricians and ask what it will cost to run 2 feed wires into a new panel and bolt it to the wall and run the cabel for the 230v outlet

He has no breaker space and would need to have a set of breakers to add the sub panel.
 

RangerDaleXp

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For the people the piggy back and can not use both items, do you turn off compressor, drain water, then next time you use it just let fill itself up. Or just leave it pressurized and turn if off and then make sure when it kicks on the other item is not in use. Seems easy enough if the tank and system holds air tight and I use the dryer circuit. Not sure how that works with the AC kicking on automatically. RangerDaleXp I know I could piggy back and take it out, but I was hoping to "do it right" what ever that means, I guess this is the perfect example of over regulation causing a situation where people have to do exactly what the regulation was trying to stop.

What manufacture main panel do you have? It may have the ability to swap out some of the breakers and install compact breakers and make room for another circuit which would be real easy......
 

JASTECH

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I would go with Quincy, better product nowadays then IR. If your code allows piggy back then go 220vac and still Quincy IMHO.
 

NC-Fordguy

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I have a 110v 33 gal craftman compressor. It will run most things like an impact gun air cut-off tool, fill up car tires, and I even painted one of broncos withe a hvlp guns.

However a 110 compressor will not keep up with a soda blaster, continuous use of die grinders or angle grinders.

I ended up getting a 220v 60 gallon compressor so I could use the tools the 110v couldn't handle.

Decide on what tools you need to run and then choose what you need.
 

theoldwizard1

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First, I am amazed that any "name brand" compressor manufacture would sell an oil lubed, 2HP unit wired to run on 120V. If you have a 20A breaker and 12 gauge wiring it might work.

Many folks trip 15A breakers with a 1HP compressor, especially if they have been running for awhile and are hot.

If you have a dryer outlet handy, why not just change the plug on a 240V compressor and plug it in when you are using the compressor ? With 240V you could easily run a 50' 12 gauge "adapter" extension cord (dryer plug on one end, compressor receptacle on the other) from that outlet to the compressor and be completely legal.


Me, I'm hoping to get time this week to check out a 30 gallon, 3HP "portable' (HA !) compressor.
 
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BOONEY7750

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I can not tell the brand of panel it I think union electric. Maybe I wasn't clear I have a 100a fused panel not breakers. I have 4 115v circuits with 2 230v in my main or original panel and a 6 circuit 115v sub panel. Original box is knob and tube original wiring and sub panel is I am guessing mid 70's wiring that was added during an addition/finished basement remodel. Kinda paints the picture of why I was trying to avoid tearing into the box and dealing with inspections. I know once I tear into the knob and tube I need to get it all out, and get a new panel, neither of which are economically feasible at this moment which is how the 115v compressors came into light. I have also heard about maybe replacing my sub panel with a 8 circuit 100a breaker box, but then it seems I am almost getting into spending a dollar to save a dime situation and might as well save until I can get a 200a breaker panel in.
 

jim2664258

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First, I am amazed that any "name brand" compressor manufacture would sell an oil lubed, 2HP unit wired to run on 120V. If you have a 20A breaker and 12 gauge wiring it might work.

Many folks trip 15A breakers with a 1HP compressor, especially if they have been running for awhile and are hot.
Depends a lot on the service in your house, of course. I run my Kobalt oil-lubed 1.6HP compressor all the time and it's never tripped a 15A breaker. Not saying what you say doesn't happen, it surely does, but YMMV.
 

hammlm

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Back to your question about which.

I don't know that I can pick for you. I have the last one you listed, the quincy 20 gallon horizontal. It's older (the purple years for quincy), and has the metal/wire belt guard. I bought it new about 13-14 years ago. It has done everything I want, including run cut-off wheels for short periods. I don't do any full restoration, frame-off anything, but I do use my garage. It runs my 1/2" impacts with no problems. I have painted with it (a tractor, not a car), and used in-line or last-chance dryers.

Does it cycle a lot? Yes. Do I have to learn how to adjust my work by stopping, etc? Yes. Would it work for a production shop? No. If I was making money (or losing money because I was waiting for it) with it, I would have something else.

I like it because it's been rock solid. My compressor has seen at a minimum weekly use over the time I've owned it. It's pretty quiet (although I do have adding an exhaust muffler on my round-tuit list). I leave it charged all the time, and have it connected to the copper distribution that runs through my garage.

Do I want a 220v upright big compressor? OF COURSE I DO!!! I have plenty of electric available and doing the wiring correctly is not an issue for me. I just haven't had an opportunity to steal an old used compressor at a good price, and haven't had the need to justify buying a new one.

I will get one someday, but right now, the Quincy fits nicely under my workbench, and continues to do what I ask of it, with some understanding on my part, every time I need it.

I will say that when it was brand new, I would sometimes trip a breaker when it would start up. I don't know for sure, but I think that was directly related to it being cold, and the oil being more viscous. It never had that problem while I was using it, only at start-up. In the four years that I've had my shop heated (keep it at 59*) in the winter, it hasn't done that.

If you can swing a 220V big-boy compressor, then definitely do it. But it sounds like you have some real, if not annoying, constraints that preclude that. I'd buy what works for you and be happy.

Just for information, I also have some oil-less compressors that I can take off site, or in the house for small air-nailing jobs, etc. The quincy is a lot quieter, and much, much more capable than those.
 

RangerDaleXp

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I can not tell the brand of panel it I think union electric. Maybe I wasn't clear I have a 100a fused panel not breakers. I have 4 115v circuits with 2 230v in my main or original panel and a 6 circuit 115v sub panel. Original box is knob and tube original wiring and sub panel is I am guessing mid 70's wiring that was added during an addition/finished basement remodel. Kinda paints the picture of why I was trying to avoid tearing into the box and dealing with inspections. I know once I tear into the knob and tube I need to get it all out, and get a new panel, neither of which are economically feasible at this moment which is how the 115v compressors came into light. I have also heard about maybe replacing my sub panel with a 8 circuit 100a breaker box, but then it seems I am almost getting into spending a dollar to save a dime situation and might as well save until I can get a 200a breaker panel in.

You are definitely in a bad power situation with a fuse box:sad:. You can always run the 220v compressor on a 10ga cord and plug it in the dryer outlet when you need it:dunno:....
 

pdxgearhead

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PDXGEARHEAD.....Not within my electrical ability for sure, I live a strong union city with crazy codes and inspections. I have to use contractors from the city's list if I plan on passing inspection and I am not sure I could get one of them to take it on or if I would pass the inspection after the work was complete. I have had people tell me to basically run a new small box off a existing circuit such as the dryer and that was referred to it as jumper box or piggy back box, if there is a way to take power form a existing circuit safely I am all ears, but I am way to far away from the dryer to for example try plugging the compressor into my dryer outlet.

It's very easy, I was scared to do it myself, but I figured it out. The easiest way is to mount an external plug right below your breaker panel. I'll take some pics of my set-up.
 
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BOONEY7750

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You are definitely in a bad power situation with a fuse box:sad:. You can always run the 220v compressor on a 10ga cord and plug it in the dryer outlet when you need it:dunno:....

Say I chose this route, How long are 60g tanks holding decent pressure? This would be annoying because I would have to go through the back door and through the main part of the house and down basement steps. However I normally only get a good day at a time where I would know I am working and using a long cord would fit the bill and allow me to bypass all the electrical issues. I wouldn't mind running the cord for heavy use but would not want to have to run it every time I want to blow up a bike tire or blow off my bench. What kind of times and at what psi are the 60g units holding? say maybe a 135 psi or 150 psi unit, how long before it will drop to sat 90 psi - 100 psi?
 
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BOONEY7750

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Can anybody do the math to figure out what the SCFM on the Quincy unit would be with a 3/8 outlet instead of 1/2. I assume it would be higher pressure lower SCFM? Trying to get an apples to apples comparison of the two original compressors.
 
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pdxgearhead

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BOONEY,
Until a year ago, I had no idea what a "quad pole" circuit breaker was. It basically a compact breaker that allows two lines of 220 to be hooked into it instead of one. It allows you to add a breaker without upgrading to a circuit box with more spaces ($$). I removed my old 30 amp circuit breaker for the dryer from my box, and installed the quad pole. I mounted a 220V plug set-up which is designed to be mounted on walls right below the panel. I ran Romex from the plug into the breaker box, and attached the wires as well as the old wires from the dryer line. This is a pretty cheap way to do it. Note, you're not increasing the amps to your box, so you can't run the dryer at the same time. It just makes for a clean install. My friend had a pro electrician do this for him, cost was $150 parts and labor. The black box in the far lower left corner is the outlet.


IMG_0497.jpg
 
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lonestarky

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Seriously? Just answer the question. 110 v compressors work fine, and I've used mine for years. Yes its loud, yes I have to wait for it. Between the two, I'd pick the one it would be easiest for you to get parts for. For most, that would be the ir. Parts are available at tsc.
 

6-Speed

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I am very happy with my IR Garage Mate. It works on 120 VAC and it has never popped a 15A breaker while starting up.

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