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painting inside, fresh concrete block

LutzTD

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I just about have my roof done and I want to start planning the inside paint. I got a compressor that will keep up with a paint sprayer, if required I can move up the airline install to make compressed air available. I am wondering what primer/paint combination to buy for a trouble free long lived wall. I want to make it as bright white as possible to consrve electricity in the lighting. The block was layed less about 3 months ago. I have a lot of over spill on the walls from when they grouted rather sloppily. I am also wondering what I can use to remove this or will the paint cover? do I need any pre-treatment like mratic or something before the primer? I was looking at a pressure pot sprayer, the airless ones seem problematic and pretty expensive, or I can go the old school roll on approach.

thanx
 
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Syndicate

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Here is a helpful link
http://www.house-painting-info.com/concrete-block.html#axzz1rt3vE8io

I would use some sort of block filler, spendy but worth it. I know they make an elastic merit type of rubberized primer for fresh blocks but I forgot the name of it. Also any sherwin williams store gives decent advice. And I do not think you need air. Matter of fact I think you want to use an airless paint sprayer. Cheap enough to buy, but if you do not want to buy one you can rent them daily or weekly.
 

T_Hed

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SW Virginia / SW Florida
You need to a wire brush or wire brush wheel on a grinder to get the grout off. Use block filler, and if you decide to spray it on, you still need to back roll it to fill all the pores of the block. You can top coat with any good latex paint (semi gloss would be my choice).

T
 

IRtoolsguy

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Apr 6, 2012
Messages
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I just about have my roof done and I want to start planning the inside paint. I got a compressor that will keep up with a paint sprayer, if required I can move up the airline install to make compressed air available. I am wondering what primer/paint combination to buy for a trouble free long lived wall. I want to make it as bright white as possible to consrve electricity in the lighting. The block was layed less about 3 months ago. I have a lot of over spill on the walls from when they grouted rather sloppily. I am also wondering what I can use to remove this or will the paint cover? do I need any pre-treatment like mratic or something before the primer? I was looking at a pressure pot sprayer, the airless ones seem problematic and pretty expensive, or I can go the old school roll on approach.

thanx

If you have a compressor, you should check out this sprayer. Only $45: http://shopir.com/SprayGun-Automotive-HVLP-ModelPF260.aspx
 
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LutzTD

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T_Hed

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You are gonna have to have an airless sprayer for block filler. It's thick like pudding. If you don't have a whole lot of surface area just roll it on, less cleanup headache.

T
 
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LutzTD

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You are gonna have to have an airless sprayer for block filler. It's thick like pudding. If you don't have a whole lot of surface area just roll it on, less cleanup headache.

T

thanx, there really is no way around the rolling for the block sealer is there? Im going to have to learn how to roll a lot neater :). there a Sherwin Williams close to work. I still need to finish the roof then get the insulation blown on the bottom of it, then wire brush the walls, hopefully soon Ill get to the paint. :thumbup:
 

BillK

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l,
At the last building we were in, we painted before we moved in. We used a block filler and then a semi-gloss white latex. It was very expensive (3600 sq ft with 16 ft ceiling) but well worth it. We were there for about 8 years and it held up great. The guy that did it for us sprayed it on with an airless type sprayer and had someone following right behind him to back roll it. I think he used Benjamin Moore products.


When we purchased our current location it was already painted thank goodness :)
 

joes169

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What is the outside of the walls going to get for a finish? If nothing, I certainly wouldn't try to seal the interior of the wall.

I have a CMU block shop (I'm a mason contractor) and I ended up making my own "paint" for the interior of my shop so it was still breathable. All it takes is white Portland cement, bonding agent, water & even a little drywall primer for a little better consistency. Mix it thin enough and you can roll or spray it just like paint.

For the exterior I have several coats of Sherwin William's "Loxon", which is extremely thick, and required major thinning to even spray through my airless sprayer. For std. smooth block, I'd just roll the entire exterior, it will go faster than you think, and the product will perform better w/o being thinned.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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If you will paint the wall with a sprayer you may want to rent an airless sprayer.
I am assuming you meant to use a car type sprayer as you mentioned your compressor keeping up with it. Wall paint is too thick for that, you want airless.

Like any substrate you want a good primer coat and then a few top coats.
 
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LutzTD

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What is the outside of the walls going to get for a finish? If nothing, I certainly wouldn't try to seal the interior of the wall.

I have a CMU block shop (I'm a mason contractor) and I ended up making my own "paint" for the interior of my shop so it was still breathable. All it takes is white Portland cement, bonding agent, water & even a little drywall primer for a little better consistency. Mix it thin enough and you can roll or spray it just like paint.

For the exterior I have several coats of Sherwin William's "Loxon", which is extremely thick, and required major thinning to even spray through my airless sprayer. For std. smooth block, I'd just roll the entire exterior, it will go faster than you think, and the product will perform better w/o being thinned.

Im going to stucco the outside. I thought I needed to seal for the inside paint to stick, the stucco should seal out the moisture. Should I still use some type of seal or primer to bond the inside paint? I am a total newbee to painting
 

brownbagg

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but its a garage just buy some cheap walmart paint and paint three or four coat
 
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LutzTD

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but its a garage just buy some cheap walmart paint and paint three or four coat

Im afraid to cheap out too much, its a lot of work to go back later and strip of flaking off paint. odd thing is even if it comes off in chunks, there will be places where it will stick hard and refuse to be removed.
 
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LutzTD

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I went to Sherwin Williams store this morning. They recommended a primer sealer at $22.79/gal and their A-100 Exterior Satin finish at $24.59/gal. they said coverage is 200sqft/gal primer and 350sqft/gal top coat. I have approximately 1800sqft of walls so I will need 9 gallons primer and little over 5 gallons top coat. For application he suggested a good quality 1" knap roller at $7 each. grand total should be around $380. Likely Ill go back next week and get it.
 

joes169

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My advice earlier, to clarify, is I would not recommend attempting to seal the interior as well, or better, than the exterior. It's not uncommon for moisture to migrate up from ground water below grade, and it needs somewhere to escape. Perhaps the top of the block wall is open and can be vented from the soffit/attic ventilation, but if it's closed up with a continuous top plate, you could have problems. I would tend to lean heavily to a "breathable" covering.
 
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LutzTD

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My advice earlier, to clarify, is I would not recommend attempting to seal the interior as well, or better, than the exterior. It's not uncommon for moisture to migrate up from ground water below grade, and it needs somewhere to escape. Perhaps the top of the block wall is open and can be vented from the soffit/attic ventilation, but if it's closed up with a continuous top plate, you could have problems. I would tend to lean heavily to a "breathable" covering.

The top of the wall is open, well its grouted but exposed, I could leave that unpainted if thats enough to let it breath. the foundation and knee wall under the block is about 2 feet from the base to the wall, the block starts 4" above ground on top of the knee wall. they layed moisture barrier plastic under the floor
 
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LutzTD

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I did the first coat of primer this weekend. The coverage estimate earlier in this thread was pretty good. I went back and got the primer and forgot eh square footage then calculated using the wrond wall height. I bought 6 gallons primer and ran out. I went back this morning and got another 5 gallon pail and I used half of it, so the 9 gallons was about right. I think the second coat will go much farther.
 

signcrafter

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I went to Sherwin Williams store this morning. They recommended a primer sealer at $22.79/gal and their A-100 Exterior Satin finish at $24.59/gal. they said coverage is 200sqft/gal primer and 350sqft/gal top coat. I have approximately 1800sqft of walls so I will need 9 gallons primer and little over 5 gallons top coat. For application he suggested a good quality 1" knap roller at $7 each. grand total should be around $380. Likely Ill go back next week and get it.

I've really like wherein Williams. Sign up for their emails and you will receive 30% off coupons almost every month and will get 10% off all the time. Block walls soak up paint like crazy. If you don't use a primer or block filler like one post said to just use cheap paint you will end up spending way more money on cheap paint then if you had primed. Sherwin Williams paint is also a lot nicer to use then the box stores most expensive paint. It goes on nicer and covers better. Good choice on Sherwin Williams.

Im pretty sure I got a post card for 30% off this weekend.
 

Morrisman

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Angeles City, Philippines
Im afraid to cheap out too much, its a lot of work to go back later and strip of flaking off paint. odd thing is even if it comes off in chunks, there will be places where it will stick hard and refuse to be removed.

If the block is anything like the block mine was built from, it will be so porous it will literally **** that paint into the pores and it will never peel off.

People told me I'd need to seal it with PVA, but I never bothered, just used a roller and put a couple coats of white gloss on. It made such a different to the look and brightness of the shop inside. :thumbup:
 
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LutzTD

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I've really like wherein Williams. Sign up for their emails and you will receive 30% off coupons almost every month and will get 10% off all the time. Block walls soak up paint like crazy. If you don't use a primer or block filler like one post said to just use cheap paint you will end up spending way more money on cheap paint then if you had primed. Sherwin Williams paint is also a lot nicer to use then the box stores most expensive paint. It goes on nicer and covers better. Good choice on Sherwin Williams.

Im pretty sure I got a post card for 30% off this weekend.

man, thats kicking me right in my cheap bone. Ill have to sign up, I paid about $350 for paint so far, 30% off would have been nice......
 

signcrafter

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man, thats kicking me right in my cheap bone. Ill have to sign up, I paid about $350 for paint so far, 30% off would have been nice......

Not trying to rub salt in but I just searched for the email and here is the link, http://www.sherwin-williams.com/hom...4&pcrid=1450040206&pkw=sherwin-williams&pmt=e. It ends today. I think it's called prefered customer or something like that. I just signed up a few years ago and they send a postcard and email almost once a month with 30% off and about once a year 40%off. There is a link to sign up on the link I posted.
 
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