Honda crank pulley bolt

[outsider347]

97 Honda Civic
Time to change the timing belt & belts & water pump
Can't get the crank pulley bolt loose. Assume to be RH thread
Plenty of PSi & a good impact. Also tried a strap wrench & breaker bar

Suggestions???
Tks

 

[Dmaxman]

I have heated the bolt head up with a torch and shocked it with water many times and then they come right off with an impact.

 

[scott37300]

97 Honda Civic
Time to change the timing belt & belts & water pump
Can't get the crank pulley bolt loose. Assume to be RH thread
Plenty of PSi & a good impact. Also tried a strap wrench & breaker bar

Suggestions???
Tks

Does the 97 need the special crank "socket" to hold the pulley?

http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-4731a.aspx

 

[c39er]

I use a 1" impact gun for removal. The tool to retorque the bolt.

 

[Tarheelgarage]

Does the 97 need the special crank "socket" to hold the pulley?

http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-4731a.aspx

The special holding tool is necessary is your impact doesn't have the balls to knock it off.
I've never had problems with the civic crank bolts. The accords are tough sobs which required heat and a long breaker bar-cheater pipe in a lot of cases to break loose. I believe the factory uses red loctite during installation.

 

[srmofo]

You need more ***. The only time I have had issues is when I was younger and doing them without air tools or the proper compressor.

Solutions:
1)bigger gun and compressor
2)bigger pipe and wrench

Had heat but that is not on my preferred list of to dos

 

[blacK20]

Heat has worked for me many times. Some may say that it can damage the rubber on the harmonic balancer but I haven't had any issues so far. The bolt itself is not actually seized. It's just the surface bond that happens after so many heat cycles the engine has gone through. Concentrate the heat around the big washer and then throw your gun at it again.

 

[darkzero]

I've never had to use heat removing crank bolts on Civics & Integras using my 1/2" IR working in the shop. Accords though sometimes I had to use a 3/4" impact. I agree with what black20 says, Honda doesn't not use thread lock & it should never be used.

Before I got my own air tools, at home, I would remove the lower trans cover & make a simple bracket to bolt to the flywheel & trans case then use a ratchet or breaker bar to loosen the crank bolt. I forget as I no longer work on cars but in some case there was not enough thread or an available hole on the flywheel to bolt the bracket on. I've also once seen a tool that inserts into the trans case to hold the teeth on the flywheel to prevent it from moving.

 

[Knuckle Buster]

If I know it is a stubborn model to crack loose, I remove the bolt first, before removing the battery cable or jacking the car. Reason for that is I carefully fix a breaker bar in place in a way that no damage will be done ( whether it be resting to the frame or against the floor.. depending on the vehicle ).. then bump the starter. I had just started at a Ford dealer years ago when a Master Mechanic there showed me his trick. I used the term Master Mechanic because back in those days in my neck of the woods the term Tech was thought to be someone who repaired consumer electronics, not cars. Damn, that's making me feel old now.

 

[Skin]

The special holding tool is necessary is your impact doesn't have the balls to knock it off.

Its necessary regardless since tightening is usually ft-lb + 90*.

 

[Daedalus]

My Honda is also known to have a VERY tough bolt. When I did the belt, I used the pulley holder and stuck a long extension on the socket, supported by a jack stand where it connected to the breaker bar. I used a 4 foot cheater bar on the breaker, put about 90% of my weight on the end of the cheater bar, and then had to bounce up and down a few times before it gave...probably over 700 ft-lbs. Sounded like a rifle going off and I swore I broke something.

 

[Stick Figure]

If I know it is a stubborn model to crack loose, I remove the bolt first, before removing the battery cable or jacking the car. Reason for that is I carefully fix a breaker bar in place in a way that no damage will be done ( whether it be resting to the frame or against the floor.. depending on the vehicle ).. then bump the starter. I had just started at a Ford dealer years ago when a Master Mechanic there showed me his trick. I used the term Master Mechanic because back in those days in my neck of the woods the term Tech was thought to be someone who repaired consumer electronics, not cars. Damn, that's making me feel old now.

I've used this trick many times, however in this case it is terrible advice. The Honda in question has a right hand threaded bolt, the engine on the other hand spins counter clock wise. Using this trick on a Honda with a B, D F, H (or possibly others that I am forgetting) engine code will only try to tighten it. The newer K series engines are okay as Honda switched to clock wise rotation.

For what its worth, I had a couple of stuck ones back in the day that only the 1" impact would knock loose.

Good luck.

 

[Knuckle Buster]

I've used this trick many times, however in this case it is terrible advice. The Honda in question has a right hand threaded bolt, the engine on the other hand spins counter clock wise. Using this trick on a Honda with a B, D F, H (or possibly others that I am forgetting) engine code will only try to tighten it. The newer K series engines are okay as Honda switched to clock wise rotation.

For what its worth, I had a couple of stuck ones back in the day that only the 1" impact would knock loose.

Good luck.

You are right, and thanks for catching that. I didn't know it. I hardly see an import.

 

[basedriver]

Just took care of the TB on our Odyssey last weekend. I used a pair of harbor freight 1/2" breaker bars. One resting against the a-arm and I pulled on the other with my feet braced against the a-arm. An extra set of hands would have helped to hold the pulley tool breaker bar in place. It slipped a couple of times before I finally broke it free.

 

[Skyline]

What's your definition of a "good impact"?

 

[1fastvx]

Get a bigger better gun or try and raise the air pressure or shorten the hose length. ALso be sure to just use a deep socket with no extension. The slack in the exension can rob you of some of the power.

My IR 1/2 incher has been able to take them all off with no issues. The other method is take it down to the local mechanic and have them loosen it up. Usually they will give it a quick pop with an impact and not charge much at all.

John

 

[chris142]

Those Honda crank bolts can be a problem. My IR231 won't loosen them and neither will my 625ft lbs IR gun with 150psi behind them. My 3/4 IR 261 with 1/2 hose will take them right off.

 

[bighead51]

Make damn sure you tighten them correctly are you will be buying a new crank !

 

[scott37300]

Make damn sure you tighten them correctly are you will be buying a new crank !

What is the correct way to tighten them?

 

[rkpatt]

I have done this job before on a CW engine with the stater trick but recently ran into a tough one on a CCW series B Honda engine ( 1999 CRV) . I tried to loosen on a the cranshaft pullet on Honda series B engine and was unsuccessful using a 4 ft cheater on a 1/2 break turning a 1/2 supported extension driver connect to an 1/2 impact socket and used the crank holding tool . The 1/2 extension twisted off . I then tried a 500ft lb air impact and no success . Time to go to a shop that has stronger impact / compressor .


I use the hollow hex crankshaft pulley holder tool and a torque wrench to tighten them. I believe that the spec torque is 130 ft lbs . Some use a little oil the bolt threads .

 

[Seanbev24]

I have the holder tool, but I haven't needed it since I got my MG725. There are only a few 1/2" impacts out there that will reliably get them off, and that's only when combined with a very good air supply.

 

[Chillydog]

I picked up a proto torque multiplier off e-bay, 200 ftlbs makes 1200ftlbs. It takes two people one to hold the crankshaft pulley holder and the reaction bar on the multiplier and the othe one to turn the multiplier input with a breaker bar. Pops it loose really easy.

Torque multiplier is good for the blade nuts on a brushhog too.

Gary

 

[garboui]

Just out of curiosity since ive struggled with many of these in the past on D and B series engines. Has anyone even broken off the crankshaft bolt in the crank?

 

[outsider347]

Got the bolt off. & job done

The heat/water quench worked great. Gonna remember that one

Thanks to all who responded....you made my day gents

 

[rockchucker]

If the Engine is just freewheeling then sometimes sticking the Transmission in gear while having somebody step on the Brakes will help. This is of course with a Manual Transmission. With an Automatic you just have to pull the Starter and use a large Prybar against the Flexplate Teeth to hold the Engine from rotating.

This is of course all with someone on the Crank Bolt with a gun while another person is trying to keep the Engine from turning.


I have used the Breaker Bar against the Frame method for many vehicles to bust the Crank Bolt loose though. You definitely do not want to try it on an Engine that does not rotate the correct direction.

Good luck!

 

[Kingsway]

The pulley holder tool, if it hasn,t already been stated has a 50mm hex that fits into the pulley. A company called powerhouse tools makes one for about 35 bucks at canadian tire. I think i read somewhere that in the states you could buy the exact same one at pep boys. Its probably like ten bucks there! Lol!

 

[Dmaxman]

Hope you had beer after the job was done

 

[lsrx101]

Hope you had beer after the job was done

I hope so too!

I did my 98 Civic timing belt in my buddys garage. With 125 PSI available and a Mac Thunder Gun, the crank bolt just smiled and thumbed it's nose at us.

We eventually hard plumbed a 15'x 3/8" hose right to the compressor outlet and directly to the gun to get more air volume. No bends or hose couplers. WHOOP! That crank bolt came right out as fast as I could pull the trigger!

It was a great lesson about volume loss in air lines.

 

[blasto9000]

Guys, there is a special tool available from Lisle that holds the crank pulley in place while you crack the bolt loose. Absent the tool, a chain pipe wrench (Vise Grip type), just be sure to cushion the pulley with the old belt so it doesn't get marked up. Rotate the engine until the handle of the Vise Grip rests against something solid and you're home free.

I was a Honda tech for five years, did over 100 timing belt jobs and never once encountered a bolt that couldn't be removed with a conventional breaker bar and proper loosening technique. If you're pulling on the handle of the bar without supporting the head with your other hand, your technique will NOT get that bolt loose without some swearing!

 

[KMinAF]

If I know it is a stubborn model to crack loose, I remove the bolt first, before removing the battery cable or jacking the car. Reason for that is I carefully fix a breaker bar in place in a way that no damage will be done ( whether it be resting to the frame or against the floor.. depending on the vehicle ).. then bump the starter. I had just started at a Ford dealer years ago when a Master Mechanic there showed me his trick. I used the term Master Mechanic because back in those days in my neck of the woods the term Tech was thought to be someone who repaired consumer electronics, not cars. Damn, that's making me feel old now.

Thats the way I have been doing it for the last 30+ years. I did make a tool to hold the pulley to torque it down though.

 

[z28snksknr]

My Honda is also known to have a VERY tough bolt. When I did the belt, I used the pulley holder and stuck a long extension on the socket, supported by a jack stand where it connected to the breaker bar. I used a 4 foot cheater bar on the breaker, put about 90% of my weight on the end of the cheater bar, and then had to bounce up and down a few times before it gave...probably over 700 ft-lbs. Sounded like a rifle going off and I swore I broke something.

This matches my experience as well. 4' breaker bar with my 200 lbs jumping on it.

 

[KMinAF]

Just once, fortunately the threaded portion came out fairly easily. I still don't understand why the head just snapped off especially since I was trying to loosen it.

Just out of curiosity since ive struggled with many of these in the past on D and B series engines. Has anyone even broken off the crankshaft bolt in the crank?

 

[rkpatt]

I just took mine to a general repair shop who has done many with a 3/4 impact. He said one time out of very many that the bolt broke while trying to loosen it with the big air impact . I offered to sign a waiver but he told me to go home and try again one more time. He told me that he prefers to use the impact only when the breaker bar and pulley holder method fails . Maybe I will try one more time with a different brand of 1/2 inch extension but I really don't believe it will work . Finding all 3/4 drive stuff is not so easy and it gets expensive .

 

[rkpatt]

When that bolt broke , were you using an impact wrench or breaker bar and cheater ? - Thanks

Just once, fortunately the threaded portion came out fairly easily. I still don't understand why the head just snapped off especially since I was trying to loosen it.

 

[njride]

Glad you got it. I've done about 5 on my own cars with hand tools and the $30 dollar hex holder to keep the crank from spinning. I've been meaning to pick up a good used 3/4" ratchet and long extension, you can really see that its a little too much to ask of 1/2 inch stuff. Then again the square drive on the holder tool is only 1/2" anyway.

When they finally break free its like a gunshot, everytime I swear i broke something this time. I never did break the bolt thank god, but that bolt has done in a few rp craftsmen ratchets.

The first one I did before I had the special tool the engine was out of the car and I held the pulley with a chain wrench. I'd imagine thats probably not too good for the rubber damper in the pulley though.

 

[thooks]

I did my Ridgeline timing belt this past summer. It wasn't easy to break the crank bolt loose, but I got it done. I ordered the 50mm hex pulley holder and used two 1/2" breaker bars. One to hold the 50mm tool and one with a 20"x1/2" extension on the 19mm deep socket.

I removed the right front tire and used another jackstand to support the 20" extension. I had my wife down there holding the 50mm on the other breaker bar. (I had her wearing safety glasses and I put a large heavy towel over her head for safety).

I put a 3' long piece of 1-1/4" pipe over the handle of the other breaker bar. I put everything I had behind it and after a couple of tries, my 295 lb **** broke it loose. It sounded like a 30.06 went off in the garage. I first made sure the wife was good and then I started looking at the tools and then the bolt head. Everything was good but you would have never known it from the sound.

That took 35 minutes to get that done from jacking the truck up to getting everything setup and breaking it loose. Took 10-12 minutes of fooling with the 50mm tool to make sure we had it in square and tight.

Then it was 6-1/2 hours of hell changing the belt and water pump. But this desk jockey did it and did it right.

 

[rkpatt]

If I have to use heat to help loosen it , I think that I will go back with a new bolt .

 

[bigpasta]

When my friend and I did the timing belt job on his civic we used the crank pulley holder tool, 1/2" breaker bar, and a 5 or 6 foot cheater pipe. Here's an excellent DIY write-up on the job:

Timing Belt DIY 2

I believe around 600lbs. of force is required to break that pulley bolt loose.


-Bp

 

[buffettck]

When my friend and I did the timing belt job on his civic we used the crank pulley holder tool, 1/2" breaker bar, and a 5 or 6 foot cheater pipe. Here's an excellent DIY write-up on the job:

Timing Belt DIY 2

I believe around 600lbs. of force is required to break that pulley bolt loose.


-Bp

Holy cow, 600 ft-lbs on a Civic??? Where did all of that come from? I'm looking to do my CR-V timing belt and the factor spec torque is only 130 ft-lbs.

Reading stuff like this is really scaring me away from doing it myself. Sad, because everything else looks easy to do.

 

[sdguy55]

My Honda is also known to have a VERY tough bolt. When I did the belt, I used the pulley holder and stuck a long extension on the socket, supported by a jack stand where it connected to the breaker bar. I used a 4 foot cheater bar on the breaker, put about 90% of my weight on the end of the cheater bar, and then had to bounce up and down a few times before it gave...probably over 700 ft-lbs. Sounded like a rifle going off and I swore I broke something.

sucky..