Need help with DIY trailer kit and axle

[cody168]

Hi all,

Few days ago I've purchased a DIY (or built-it-yourself) trailer kit from Harbor Freight Tools (HST). This is my first 40" x 48" small utility trailer and the model # is 90153. This is the user manual in PDF format for ease of reference.

(Images below are taken from under the trailer, and the top of the image is the front of the trailer.)

Originally I thought the only problem was the left wheel that is toe-in by around 3 degrees, but later with closer look the right wheel is toe-out a little bit as well. So I think there is something wrong with the alignment of the axle and/or the spindles...

(Left wheel)

(Right wheel)

The u-bolt looked like it might have something to do with it just because the way it looked... but I am not sure.

(LEFT)

(RIGHT)

So, I guess the actual problem is that the axle is tilted right-side-down and left-side-up (from the 1st image). If that's the case, how can I fix it? The hex nut that connects the spring hanger to the frame is pretty snug, I think it won't be much help if I try to nudge them. Or could I do something with how the u-bolt, spring, plate and the axle are connected, to make the wheel straight?

Since it is still in warranty, which part(s) should be replaced with HST? the axle? wheel hub?

Could it be that I did a bad job of putting it in together, and this whole thing is not a non-issue and just put it on the road as is?

Any advice or input is much appreciated.

Thanks,

Cody


Related forum topic: That G.D. harbor freight folding trailer

 

[cranejon]

Best thing you can do is take the trailer back and get your money back...A trailer is a heavy moving vehicle with momentum. You can easily hurt yourself or someone else. Buy or build a proper one. Don't rely on the least expensive chinese junk.

 

[CD1]

Best thing you can do is take the trailer back and get your money back...A trailer is a heavy moving vehicle with momentum. You can easily hurt yourself or someone else. Buy or build a proper one. Don't rely on the least expensive chinese junk.

This suggestion is good.

 

[kmacht]

I call bull on the above statement. There are thousands of these trailers out on the road having no problems at all. There is no need to have a heavy duty trailer to do light duty work. Its about choosing the right tool (trailer) for the job, not choosing the most expensive heavy duty tool just because it isn't made in china. As to the original question, I can see that the wheel isn't straight but can't tell why from the pictures. It almost looks like the hub or axle end might be bent. Do they point the same way if you swap the tires left to right?

Keith

 

[JimVonBaden]

I call bull on the above statement. There are thousands of these trailers out on the road having no problems at all. There is no need to have a heavy duty trailer to do light duty work. Its about choosing the right tool (trailer) for the job, not choosing the most expensive heavy duty tool just because it isn't made in china. As to the original question, I can see that the wheel isn't straight but can't tell why from the pictures. It almost looks like the hub or axle end might be bent. Do they point the same way if you swap the tires left to right?

Keith

Agreed!

Jim

 

[allinon72]

Nothing about that looks square or true. I would take it back.

 

[Spam16v]

have to bolt down the plywood and that will add the needed rigidity to keep it from flopping around. It's not square, loosen the bolts, bolt down plywood, and retighten.

 

[KEH]

The real issue is how the wheels sit when the trailer is assembled and flat on the ground. That's when to measure fron corner to corner as FrankLee suggested to check for square. Also, with an assistant, measure inside the wheels on the front of the wheel and the back of the wheel to see if they are square. I have no idea about HF trailers, but some trailer axles are bowed in the center so they straighten out under load. Maybe the assembly instructions told which way to orient the axcle when mounting, and maybe it dosen't matter on that trailer.

KEH

 

[NUTTSGT]

Best thing you can do is take the trailer back and get your money back...A trailer is a heavy moving vehicle with momentum. You can easily hurt yourself or someone else. Buy or build a proper one. Don't rely on the least expensive chinese junk.

I'll agree with you but there's members here that have them and like them. IF somebody gave me one, I'd scrap the thing out. There's no way I'm pulling it behind my truck at 55mph.

 

[BD1]

Is the axle flat ? No arc ? Try placing a 2' framing square on the axle [ as close to hub ] and another square on the face of the hub and check for square. You will have to measure between squares . Rotate hub and check in a few spots. Upon getting results, return for another.

 

[RECox286]

When we needed a small "landscaping" trailer, I also looked

at the HF offerings. The price was OK, but I would have had

assemble it, deck it, build a ramp, (yada, yada).

I looked at the instructions, and have one or two questions.

When you assembled the framework of the trailer, did you

square the frame ? Take a tape measure and check that

the measurement is the same from the left front corner to the

right rear corner as it is from the right front corner to the

left rear corner. If both measurements are the same then

the frame is in square. Next, check the wheels for square.

Measure the distance between the same points at 4 spots

around the tires left to right (like if it were a square instead of round.

If all the measurements are the same, then the axle is not

bent, or the jig used to assemble the axle was out of square equally

left to right. I would be willing to bet the frame is a parrallelogram, and

needs to be squared. If the axle is out of square, or the frame

can't be squared, then I would return the trailer, and look for a

ready built that are available in the $400 to $600 range, already

decked, fenced, ramped, wired and ready to pull.

Uncle Bob

 

[58Yeoman]

The last picture shows that the axle is not square with the springs. Is there an indexing peg on the springs that makes the axle fit in only one place? If not, it looks like you should be able to loosen the C-clamps and square the axle with the springs.

 

[vartz04]

its not square... I restored one of these guys that had the same problem, loosened the bolts, squared the frame bolted the wood down and fixed it.

 

[aka Larry]

All this talking about squaring the frame yada, yada...here is what really matters. Make sure the AXLE is square with the TONGUE pivot point. Use a tape measure to triangulate the three points as seen below on mine.

If the frame isn't perfectly square that won't really affect the way the trailer pulls down the road. If the tongue isn't square to the axle it will 'dance' behind the tow vehicle at speed. Effectively the skewed toe setting is making the trailer 'hunt' to be pulled straight when these two items are not square.

Here's a couple of pics of what I mean. These are from my 4'x7' trailer I custom built to haul my race rubber for my Mustang to the track.

 

[Steevo]

Check the front spring hangers that bolt to the frame. Are they identical? Are the frame bolt mount holes centered front to back in the bracket, or did they drill them offset toward one edge of the bracket? If one is offset, or both are, and they are not offset in the same direction, it will skew your axle forward or back on that side, creating exactly the symptom you are seeing.

These trailers are assembled from a bunch of parts, all of which have fairly loose tolerance ranges that could combine to create a really inaccurate assembly. If you take it back, chances are the next one will have issues as well. As it is now, it will tow fine, but you'll see more of it in your right mirror than the left.

 

[cody168]

The images are taken from my cell phone, so the edges and borders may appear curved, but the point is to show the wheels are toed. and to figure out remedy to fix/replace the alignment issue.

@cranejon & CD1 & Eric: this is just a light utility trailer i am building. I won't be using near its limitations and at most maybe around combined weight of 750lbs. Returning it back to HF is not the best option for me right now but replacing parts is.
But then again, isn't most products are built in China based on our American Corporate companies' order specifications?

@Keith & Jim: i think it could be the axle as well, but i will swap the tires later in the day and report

@franklee: will do that as well

@allinon72 & spam16v: the image is taken from a cell phone, that's why it looks curved, and sorry for the messy background. Plywood or stronger material is something that i am going be using later in the built, after the alignment issue is fixed.

@KEH: will do your diagnostic recommendation and report. (not so sure how to proceed on the wheel part but will try) the manual did not specify which way the axle should be.

@BD1 & Uncle Bob: will do as well. Because I couldn't find a $400-$600 ready built that's with a decent built (all made in China) here in BC (home depot, lowes, Canadian tire...etc). If purchased a ready built (used or new) across the border it would significantly cost more because of import duty, inspection fees, transfer fees, and register fees plus taxes; therefore i decided to go cheap and get a kit.

 

[805gregg]

Why complain, thats good enough for the Chinese.

 

[35mastr]

It looks like the spindles may have been welded on crooked.

 

[dirttracker18]

Swaping the wheels will do nothing. If the wheels are bent then just spinning them will tell you.

I see one of two issues, misaligned axle to springs or as others have noted, frame out of square causing the misalignment.

Check for square first. Once that is accomplished, if still out, realign the axle on the springs.

The twist in there is obvious even in the pictures.

My recommendation would be to assemble the unit then bring it to a friend that can weld it together for you. Once welded, they last a long time with few problems.

When those cheap bearings go, and they will, buy better quality pieces to replace them.

 

[klaus]

Loosen all the bolts and measure corner to corner and adjust the frame until it is square.
Re-tighten bolts using some type to loctite to hold them from vibrating loose.
Once the frame is square attach your decking to make sure it stays square (having it welded is better).
Then use the axle to tongue measurements to align the axle with the frame.

 

[KEH]

Forgot to mention that you should clean and repack the wheel bearings. Clean hub, it may have metal dust from machining.

Get it all together and I doubt it will give you trouble for your intended use as explained.

KEH

 

[NUTTSGT]

Why complain, thats good enough for the Chinese.

Yeah, but they're probably pulling it behind a bicycle.

 

[crewchief888]

ive seen some leaf springs that have a front/rear.

spring pack bolt is slightly offset front to rear.

other than that, try squaring up the frame, and set the axle square to the frame.

 

[cody168]

Thanks for all of your suggestions. After measuring the corners, it is not squared. So I've loosen the bolts and tried to square it from there, but turns out not as easy as I've thought. Because one of the problem did lies with the factory per-drilled holes, as Steevo said, they are not perfectly aligned. I should've checked that before I even begin the built.

Larry had recommended to make sure the Axle and the Tongue is squared. After measuring both sides they are off by 3/4 of an inch.

George has suspected one of the spindles may have been welded on crooked, it is true after careful examination of the left spindle. So I've called HRT for an replacement Axle... and to hope the one to come is properly made.

The axle and plates cannot slide on the springs, because of the groves on the axle prevents it from sliding. I might need to work on to re-adjust the spring hanger location. Fortunately, there are no differences in the length of cross members, and side rails. Otherwise this whole project is...

@KEH: Bearings and hubs were cleaned and packed.

So I guess the next step is to figure out how to re-drill/extend some of the holes to make the frame square. What types of tools are the best to drill new holes and to extend existing one? Also after drilling, is there a solution to prevent rust?

Further steps in the future would be to reinforce the trailer like dirttracker18 & klaus had suggested. Perhaps changing both wheels & tires and bearings when they are due.

Thanks again for all of your valuable suggestions, I've learn lots from your experiences. Please keep them coming.

 

[KEH]

Re: holes out of line. Well, you need a electric drill and a set of bit for future use, but it might be simpler in your situation to get a round file and file the holes on one side until you can get them to line up.

Re: electric drills. A 1/2 inch variable speed is the best way to go on the theory that it is better to have one too big than one too small. Probably a 3/8 would do you for the foreseable future. A De Walt or a Milwaukee is probably the best, but theyare made overseas now. A Porter Cable is good. If you don't want to put out the big bucks fot them and you don't plan to use it much, I would just get a Harbor Freight one.

KEH

 

[diggerrick]

Best thing you can do is take the trailer back and get your money back...A trailer is a heavy moving vehicle with momentum. You can easily hurt yourself or someone else. Buy or build a proper one. Don't rely on the least expensive chinese junk.

Total BS most likely from someone who has never used or even seen one of he HF trailers, but has read on this internet thingy that all things Chinese are junk.

From PERSONAL experience with my HF 4x8 folding trailer, you may have to do a little massaging here & there to get things aligned, but I've had the same issues helping assemble a high dollar kit car. For the $$$, if you have a couple tools and a small amount of mechanical aptitude, they are a great bargain.

My biggest complaint is after sitting in the sun for the last 2 years, mine is now pink - I can deal with that or paint it myself.

 

[cloves]

I had the same issue after bulding one this weekend. I was using a square and I when tightening up, corners were out about 3/4 of inch.

Did the original poster fix his trailer? loosening all the bolts is a major pain in the tail.

 

[JimVonBaden]

Total BS most likely from someone who has never used or even seen one of he HF trailers, but has read on this internet thingy that all things Chinese are junk.

From PERSONAL experience with my HF 4x8 folding trailer, you may have to do a little massaging here & there to get things aligned, but I've had the same issues helping assemble a high dollar kit car. For the $$$, if you have a couple tools and a small amount of mechanical aptitude, they are a great bargain.

My biggest complaint is after sitting in the sun for the last 2 years, mine is now pink - I can deal with that or paint it myself.

Same here. Oh, and the pink is fixable:

 

[Nehmo]

... There are thousands of these trailers out on the road having no problems at all.

What's your source on that, kmacht? This is the one-axle trailer we're talking about, correct?

First my credentials: I sold a specific type of trailer axles and tires for many years, and although I only built one trailer, myself, I've seen hundreds (not exaggerating) and I've had numerous conversations with various welders over the years.
Under very limited circumstances would I recommend a 1-axle trailer, particularly one without brakes.
If a tire blows, and it does happen, the trailer will swing out into another lane, and easily a serious accident could happen.
Now, with a 2-axle trailer, a tire blows, and the driver may not even notice for a while.
A small tow vehicle makes the need for 2 axles more imperative - not less.
Some custom utility trailer manufactures will refuse to make a 1-axle trailer if requested because they don't want to kill off their customers.

 

[Kimarieck]

I've had a good HFF trailer experience. My daughter is still using my 4x8 fold-up. But in the past year, I bought one that turned out to have two brackets welded on 1 1/2" out of place, a too-short wiring harness and the damned thing still isn't square!

 

[teal95]

My 4x8 has done at least 5 trips from Philly to Indiana when I was moving and quite a few other trips. Last weekend I hauled a pair of PA speakers 180 miles away to provide music for my nieces wedding reception. On the way I picked up an upright freezer. On the trip back I had the speakers and the freezer with a butchered pig in the freezer. Running ~65 mph the whole way. Like any piece of machinery maintain it and it will treat you right. One of the bearings had been getting warm so I tore it apart. I had to replace a seal and bearing but it was my fault for letting a strap get into the axle and tearing the seal.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

What's your source on that, kmacht? This is the one-axle trailer we're talking about, correct?

First my credentials: I sold a specific type of trailer axles and tires for many years, and although I only built one trailer, myself, I've seen hundreds (not exaggerating) and I've had numerous conversations with various welders over the years.
Under very limited circumstances would I recommend a 1-axle trailer, particularly one without brakes.
If a tire blows, and it does happen, the trailer will swing out into another lane, and easily a serious accident could happen.
Now, with a 2-axle trailer, a tire blows, and the driver may not even notice for a while.
A small tow vehicle makes the need for 2 axles more imperative - not less.
Some custom utility trailer manufactures will refuse to make a 1-axle trailer if requested because they don't want to kill off their customers.

This is almost laughable. Its plain crazy to say that single axle trailers are dangerous and kill people. I pass dozens of single axle trailers daily in my travels, lawn service trailers, U-haul trailers, campers boat trailers, air compressors, cement and mortar mixers, and on and on. Much more dangerous to be behind a semi trailer when one of those interstate alligators peels off a tire and comes flying back on onto your hood. On rare occasion I see someone on the side of the road with a flat tire on a trailer, but considering the hundreds of thousands of miles put on single axle trailers each year in this country, if there was a problem it would be readily apparent to everyone, including the media and the government.

Its simply a non issue.

Edit: I see the moderators have banned Nehmo sometime in the last three hours.

Charles

 

[JimVonBaden]

This is almost laughable. Its plain crazy to say that single axle trailers are dangerous and kill people. I pass dozens of single axle trailers daily in my travels, lawn service trailers, U-haul trailers, campers boat trailers, air compressors, cement and mortar mixers, and on and on. Much more dangerous to be behind a semi trailer when one of those interstate alligators peels off a tire and comes flying back on onto your hood. On rare occasion I see someone on the side of the road with a flat tire on a trailer, but considering the hundreds of thousands of miles put on single axle trailers each year in this country, if there was a problem it would be readily apparent to everyone, including the media and the government.

Its simply a non issue.

Edit: I see the moderators have banned Nehmo sometime in the last three hours.

Charles

 

[koditten]

I wish I would have seen this thread earlier. I got some good entertainment out of it. Glad the OP worked his way thru the troubles.

 

[71cutty455]

The HF trailers are great for what they are - an inexpensive basic light duty trailer.

I have the 4 x 8 folding trailer and it's been an invaluable tool. I have roughly $325 in it including the plywood decking and wood side rails, certainly well worth it when you look at all the junk I've hauled with it. Furniture, fill dirt, mulch, appliances, drywall, lumber, etc. All that in a trailer that only takes up an approx 2' x 5' spot in the garage when folded up.

My only complaints are that it is a bit of pain to fold/unfold it any time I need to use it and I also had to remove the fenders because with a heavy enough load they would hit the top of the tires.

Sure I could have spent twice as much on a nicer trailer but I have a hard time believing it would give me anywhere close to twice the value.

 

[JimVonBaden]

The HF trailers are great for what they are - an inexpensive basic light duty trailer.

I have the 4 x 8 folding trailer and it's been an invaluable tool. I have roughly $325 in it including the plywood decking and wood side rails, certainly well worth it when you look at all the junk I've hauled with it. Furniture, fill dirt, mulch, appliances, drywall, lumber, etc. All that in a trailer that only takes up an approx 2' x 5' spot in the garage when folded up.

My only complaints are that it is a bit of pain to fold/unfold it any time I need to use it and I also had to remove the fenders because with a heavy enough load they would hit the top of the tires.

Sure I could have spent twice as much on a nicer trailer but I have a hard time believing it would give me anywhere close to twice the value.

I purchased some $12 plastic boat trailer fenders that are great!

Two "L" brackets and four self tapping screws per fender and no more issues.

 

[71cutty455]

I purchased some $12 plastic boat trailer fenders that are great!

Two "L" brackets and four self tapping screws per fender and no more issues.

Hmm those look pretty good. I just might have to look into doing the same!

 

[dirttracker18]

I had the same issue after bulding one this weekend. I was using a square and I when tightening up, corners were out about 3/4 of inch.

Did the original poster fix his trailer? loosening all the bolts is a major pain in the tail.

Loss ending the bolts is the only way to square up the trailer. Loosen all bolts, use a hammer and block of wood to tap, not smack, the trailer back to square then re-tighten. You may find, as the op did that you need to elongate the holes to get enough movement to square up.

What's your source on that, kmacht? This is the one-axle trailer we're talking about, correct?

First my credentials: I sold a specific type of trailer axles and tires for many years, and although I only built one trailer, myself, I've seen hundreds (not exaggerating) and I've had numerous conversations with various welders over the years.
Under very limited circumstances would I recommend a 1-axle trailer, particularly one without brakes.
If a tire blows, and it does happen, the trailer will swing out into another lane, and easily a serious accident could happen.
Now, with a 2-axle trailer, a tire blows, and the driver may not even notice for a while.
A small tow vehicle makes the need for 2 axles more imperative - not less.
Some custom utility trailer manufactures will refuse to make a 1-axle trailer if requested because they don't want to kill off their customers.

I have had and witnessed tire blow outs on a single axle trailer with significant weight ( lots of distance towing with two snowmobiles on a single axle) and never had or heard of a trailer swinging out with a blowout or flat. I even had a bearing blow and lost the entire wheel and hub assembly, no big swing out. Trailer still followed the tow vehicle. Lots of ugly noises but it followed.


That's the type of fear mongering that could get a guy end sent to banned camp

 

[koditten]

I wouldn't worry too much about that dude, we all pretty much agreed he was talking out his ***.

I read that and I just thought "WTF is this guy smoking?" and where can I get some?

 

[Openboater]

I bought a similar folding trailer from Fred Meyer. I love the thing. It's been fun to assemble (instructions say 6 hours...not for a guy who over-thinks everything...). It's going to work fine for me--carry a sailing dingy and do some odds and ends lawn waste work. Would I drive cross-country with it? Not likely. It's the right tool for the job. And the whole Chinese thing? Those guys are working for American bosses. Talk to them if you have a problem. t