Need help --- you guys should know wtf to do... Stripped a bolt (torx)

[quick86]

So I got EVERY torx seat belt bolt out of my Mustang except for one. I heated up the bolt from the bottom side and got it nice and hot and ready to come out. While I continued to put heat on it from the bottom my buddy got in there with the breaker bar and the T47 torx bit and it stripped right out.

Any suggestions? I tried hammering on a socket --- I had a 21mm 5pt socket that was just perfect but the 5pt didn't have enough bite... I don't have a 12 point....

It's in there far too tight to do with vice grips from the top or even bite on to it for that matter.

I need suggestions. Thanks in advance guys.

Mods, if this is the wrong area, I apologize...Completely baffled on what I should do here.

 

[shoturtle]

It is the loctite, there was a thread a little bit ago.

3 options

1, If you have bolt out sockets, they work. Heat up the bolt first, slam the bolt out one, and crank it out.

2, Weld a new bolt on top, the crank it out.

3, use a grinder, cut a slot for a big Slotted screwdriver with a grinder, heat the bolt then unscrew it.

My choice would be 1 or 2 depending on what you have available.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Aren't those a T50 ?

 

[quick86]

I have both --- the T47 seemed to fit better in there. I know atleast on all my other vehicles T50 fits but T47 gets in deeper and it worked great on the rest of my seat belt bolts in the car where the T50 fits but is too thick to get deep IMO.

 

[BillK]

Quick,
If you have a Mig welder, and are pretty good at using it, place a nut right on top of the bolt and weld right down through the middle of the nut to the torxe bolt and fill the id of the nut up too. Let it cool off completely. Usually the heat from welding it along with the fact that you can get a socket on the nut, will get it loose.

 

[shoturtle]

just make sure if you well, you cover up the interior with old blankets and towels. so you do not burn anything

 

[DIC]

Have you tried on of these

 

[NUTTSGT]

You could always cut the bolt off flush on the bottom, cut it down the center on the inside, attempt to chisel the head off and drill out what is left.. . . . worst case scenario.

 

[coolreed]

Drill it out. Re Tap. If you can.

I have a similar issue on my Mustang except the muffler shop cross threaded some hardened bolts in my ceramic coated heaters where the collector meets the exhaust. I cannot even drill it out. I guess I will use a cut off wheel and then give it a shot from my plasma cutter.

Good Luck and may the Thread Gods be with Thee.

 

[wornoutoldman]

Got air and air hammer? If yes put a sharp punch bit in your hammer and start spinning it out...

 

[rkevins]

when you heat it up, eather welding on a nut or with a torch, put a wax candel on the back side and let the wax run in the threads. I have not tried this but have read about it and people hade good luck with it.

 

[TX63CONV]

if you dont have a welder and end up trying the other suggestions use a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF as a penetrating oil.

 

[Detroit cc]

If you can get to the head of the bolt, can you grind two flats on the head and then use a spanner/wrench?

 

[concealer404]

Got air and air hammer? If yes put a sharp punch bit in your hammer and start spinning it out...

This. I've "walked off" many a stripped/rounded bolt using this method.

These weren't coming off any other way.

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[djkeev]

Go here....

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=147875

Easiest, fastest way I've found!

Dave

 

[quick86]

Well.

Applied heat again, got it to begin to loosen by hammering on another socket....and then....snap....head ripped off clean at the floor.

****.

Went to the bottom. Took the wheel off. Heated it back up and began to work it out by hand with a pair of vice grips. Begins to loosen more... SNAP... Broke clean off at the floor.

Drilled it out. Ran in an easy out. Bolt stripped my easy out. ****. Bought a new set of easy outs. ****, stripped them out as well.

Where do I go from here?

 

[G_P]

Just drill it completely out. Worst case you end up with a hole that you cannot re thread so just put a bolt through with a nut on the outside.

 

[quick86]

Just drill it completely out. Worst case you end up with a hole that you cannot re thread so just put a bolt through with a nut on the outside.

Trying to avoid this as it's for a seat belt......

 

[Gary S]

I know nothing about Ford, and I don't want to, but the GM Torx seatbelt bolts are just as useless as yours. Either you break your torx tools, or you strip the bolt. The solution for GM torx bolts is to use a large pipe wrench to remove them. Then, either throw them in the garbage where they belong, or weld a hex nut on the top and reuse them. Years ago, GM used a large hex nut on the seatbelt bolts, and I've never had problems removing and reinstalling the old hex ones, but the newer torx bolts are worthless.
If the Ford bolts are similar to the GM ones, you can fit a pipe wrench on the outside of the bolt and easily remove it.

 

[gtmorgan89]

Trying to avoid this as it's for a seat belt......

why? i understand you want things back the way they came but in your case why is the factory torx bolt better than a quality nut and bolt?

 

[JimVonBaden]

That's what happens when you use a T-47 where a T-50 belongs. Torx are great, unless you use the wrong size.

Jim

 

[quick86]

That's what happens when you use a T-47 where a T-50 belongs. Torx are great, unless you use the wrong size.

Jim

http://mustangboards.com/general-tech-forum/30349-seatbelt-torx-bit-size-99-04-a.html

http://forums.corral.net/forums/general-mustang-tech/691877-what-size-torx-bit.html

http://forums.corral.net/forums/general-mustang-tech/1110437-seat-belt-bolt-size.html

The jury is out on it and my factory service manual doesn't specify.

 

[JimVonBaden]

http://mustangboards.com/general-tech-forum/30349-seatbelt-torx-bit-size-99-04-a.html

http://forums.corral.net/forums/general-mustang-tech/691877-what-size-torx-bit.html

http://forums.corral.net/forums/general-mustang-tech/1110437-seat-belt-bolt-size.html

The jury is out on it and my factory service manual doesn't specify.

Let me put it another way. If the Torx is at all loose, you need the next size up. If you can fit it at all, hammer it in firmly, then use it.

I have delt with so many stripped Torx head bolts on BMW motorcycles, and so many owners cussing them, that I have become a semi-expert on them.

Jim

 

[quick86]

Let me put it another way. If the Torx is at all loose, you need the next size up. If you can fit it at all, hammer it in firmly, then use it.

I have delt with so many stripped Torx head bolts on BMW motorcycles, and so many owners cussing them, that I have become a semi-expert on them.

Jim

I hear you. There was no slack in any of them really. This one went from feeling good to committing suicide as soon as i got out the 24" breaker bar. Lol.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

 

[djkeev]

If you put in a bolt and nut, get a quality piece of hardware fom a reputable place like Fastenal or Graingers. I would not use a **** Home Depot bolt for preventing my death!

Yes, there are major differences in hardware quality and yes, it does make a Difference.

Dave

 

[1948]

picture of it? hard to say what to do without looking at it.